Trailer issue help!

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Originally Posted by KurtL

Guys thanks for the guidance, just need a little more!

So checked fuses. Looks like all are ok. Anyone know if for 2004 silverado I need to look anywhere other than the hood fuse panel.

MMandley, you mentioned something about using a jump to test solenoid. How would you do that? I need details, I'm a complete electrical illiterate:confused:!


The boatmate rep e-mailed me this statement below: So how do you do this?

"You need to make sure that you’re getting 12 volts and a good ground to the solenoid (via the blue wire) when you put the vehicle in reverse. It is very unlikely that the solenoid went bad…..it is a very reliable part. We have been using that system since around 1995 and I might sell 3 or 4 solenoids a year (and we build 5000 trailer a year)."



Thanks

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You got a Volt meter or a test light?

To check this first i need to know if your using a 5 pin connector on the truck or what type of connection you got there.

Test light or volt meter will work. A known good ground is normaly any metel surface, hitch bolt, hitch its self something. You test this by tuning on the parking lights as you know they work on the trailer and check with your light or volt meter for the 12 volts.

Once you find that then put your truck in reverse. You should be able to do this with the truck turned off and the key in the run position so your back up lights come one. Now check your truck for that same voltage on the 5 pin if you have it.

If you dont get anything then this is prolly your problem. You can check your fuse panel in the truck and under the hood looking for something saying trailer hookup, towing lights, something like that.

If you have voltage on the reverse now you can test your trailer. On the trailer wire harness you should have a Blue outside wire on the harness. You can strip the insulation away and test this pluged into the truck.

Lastly is you cant get anything to test out and your ready to throw in the towel, you can jump the trailer reverse circuit by splicing the Blue wire into the Brown wire on the harness. This is a default color < brown > for all standard American bassed vechicles as the Parking light circuit. Now when you turn on the parking lights it will activate the back up circuit on the trailer and it should work. This is how i bypassed mine in a pinch last summer at the camp site when my harness got damaged.

Lastly if none of this is working call me 503-989-9921 i will help you out lol.

here is a diagram of the wiring for the trailer, you would just add the blue line for the solenoid

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ingdiagram.jpg

here is one with the blue wire(the blue wire would just go to the solenoid though, not back to the brakes)

http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/gr...043_aa_600.jpg

Could you find one with a little more detail?

Yeah, whats the black A frame looking thing?

:)

I just went through this scenario. My 07 selenoid went out,not allowing me to back up with out using my reverse lock out pin.I talked to 2 dealer mechanics and its pretty simple to test for. Hook up trailer to plug and test power at plug for all working. Check all lights work. Determine which one is reverse.mine is blue wire right to selenoid behind coupler. chech power to this point. When activating either while plugged in or just jumping from a 12volt source you should hear seleniod pop/click when activating if not likely this is the problem.

My dealer told me how to fix and they brought the part in for me and its not too hard to fix /replace. I have the breakaway tongue which the coupler assembly is inside. You have to remove the 2 pins with c clips ,remove pins ,disconnect break line ,mine attached via a flexible hose and simple coupler and cut blue power wire to selenoid then whole assembly slides out allowing you real access to selenoid.. Replace selenoid , reassemble back together, splice power wire and then refill and BLEED brakes.
All this is not too hard and is in the trailer manual ,hardest part i had was to bleed brakes but dealer told me how they do it manually using a comealong wrapped around the trailer and the hitch assembly,working the fluid through the brake lines etc.

Most people will help or at least explain this to you if you ask. They wanted 2-3 hrs and parts 70.00 parts to fix this so i did it myself. BTW dealer rates are 115.oo per hr here . I'm Cheap and would rather spend this on boat gas so this is why i did this myself.
Hope this helps . Sounds just like what i went through. GOOD LUCK.

Mike M, boombox and Mikey,

Thanks for the tips. The truck wiring is ok, power in reverse was positive. I tested it with this "trailer wiring buddy" from ES products. Kinda cool lets you check the 7 pin wiring from the comfort of you front seat.

Got the 12v test light tonight will check trailer tomorrow. I now think it is the trailer connector. But will bypass and check the solenoid first. Going to be a pain to splice in all 9 wires to the new flat 5.

Thanks again for all the help!

You got a 7pin connector on the truck? Convert the trailer over, thats what i did last summer after the 5 pin for damaged.

So it was the blue wire connection. Local trailer guy looked at it and said the problem was the connection(see pic) Apparently these corrode all the time. You guys were right on the money with the blue wire. Cheap fix! Just butt two blues and shrink tape it and good to go!

Now if you all can tell me how to stop the rain and bring on the sun we'll be in business! Come on Summer!

my boat came with a 7-pin. or at least thats what was on it when i bought it. I have never even seen a 5 pin before, just the 4 and 7. My g/fs dad had a 1500 dodge with the 7 pin added aftermarket and he tried to back my boat into the driveway with it and it was locking up. I told him to stop cause the reverse lights on the trailer werent on and he said , "trailers dont have reverse lights" lol. some people

Yeah that blue wire is the wire to the selenoid,i had mentioned. I was able to check for powere on both sides of the Butt connection which was good but the selenoid would not actuate,/ click/pop so yeah i had to replace. The one dealer told me this is really not that uncommon.Surprised others have not run into this,yet. Hopefully thats it for fixes this season as i'm hoping to FINALLY get out for the first time this season ,this Sunday. Our weather ,has not been cooperating at all this year, Also that God for my Drysuit as i expect the water to be COLD.