Upgrade the wires going to Factory distri to 1/0 and use 4 gauge from it to your amplifiers for best results. The 2 gauge power from factory is sufficient for two amplifiers though.
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Upgrade the wires going to Factory distri to 1/0 and use 4 gauge from it to your amplifiers for best results. The 2 gauge power from factory is sufficient for two amplifiers though.
Awesome thanks. Didn't know that the factory wire was 2 gauge. Will definitely upgrade. Any idea what the inline fuse size for a SNY-4 would be.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueKaotik
Although it is 2ga, the proper gauge is derived by the potential cumulative Ampere draw x distance, and not the number of amplifiers. As an example, 2ga could be too small to drive 1 single 2500W rms mono amp, but could easily power ten Kicker PXi waterpsorts amps.
I would do those calculations now and see what the 2ga will support in terms or current draw. This will let you know if you can hold off on the total rewire for the future 3rd amp, or you need to upgrade now. If the later is the case, I would bypass that BUS setup all together for the 3 amp. Leave it as is, unless you needed that realastate for the amps. Best route to go with an unknown woofer amp and possibly a future in-boat amp upgrade.
80W would be the max, but could operate on a much smaller value, depending on how its configured.
70-75 amp fuse is for a Syn4.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakkasan
I have done several Moomba's, length was factored in for the amps you said.
Any issue connecting both (2 amps in my case) or even 3 ground wires to the single negative/ground post on the factory block as pictured above?
Orange, I always like a nice 1/0 to block no matter length because I know it will support most add on. Especially when batteries are so close and it's cheap to do in most newer boats with batteries in or near observers compartment. But, technical talk, 200amps max to blow fuses on both Exiles and the battery is way less than 10 feet from amp rack. To be honest 4 gauge works up to 10 ft @ 200 continuous amps drawn. So I think your good too bud...
Great, thanks for the advice and input. I plan on putting 4 awg for both hot and ground from amps to factory block. Will consider changing to 1 Awg from batteries to block -- if not now, in the future.
Alright guys my build start date is next week and I have almost every the figured out just a few more questions.
1) Anyone know what length cable I'd need to buy to upgrade the 2ga power/negative to the 1/0.
2) Same with the 4ga for the amps. What's a safe estimate for amp wire length to avoid ordering to short or way to much?
3) RCAs. Should I run splitters at the HU and separate cable to both amps or keep the factory cable and split at the amp end.
I'm sure there's more but that's all I can think of now.
Also anyone with the '17 Craz does the A3 tower come drilled and taped at the factory speaker mount so I can just mount the Revs with xmounts and adapters or is there more work to it.
Thanks. I'm getting the bug with and empty garage and nothing to work on.
The power and ground source are mounted directly on the amp rack. Depending on install coniguration, 3 ft max per amp
Rak, I went with 8 feet each of power and ground wire (4 awg) in order to do 2 amps. Haven't gotten to install yet but will soon. Should be plenty. Ordered from Knu konceptz as suggested on this forum.
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