Winterization for newer Raptor motors

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

What about the heater? I'm guessing that runs off the engine antifreeze coolant, so that doesn't need anything to be done to it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRHRSH

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

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when I winterized my pcm351 in my 92 Sunsport, I left the block plugs out over the winter. Big mistake. lots of rust accumulated in the bare threads. So now after draining, I put my engine block plugs back in.

Trayson, then you raptor engines are closed loop cooling system. That means they have anti-freeze just like your car. So we would not be pulling out the engine plugs, unless you were changing the coolant somewhere down the line.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stazi

Trayson, then you raptor engines are closed loop cooling system. That means they have anti-freeze just like your car. So we would not be pulling out the engine plugs, unless you were changing the coolant somewhere down the line.


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Yeah, I missed that.

If you leave the hull drain plugs out, you need to devise something to prevent mice from getting in. I've heard of interiors and wires trashed from mice. I only have a bottom drain so I lay the drain plug cross ways to allow drainage but restrict varmints.

Sadly, I winterized my raptor 400 today too. I ended up with 5 plugs also. Instead of using rv antifreeze, I hooked up the air compressor and blew out the ballast lines. I also left the water hoses for the v drive unhooked. I'm planning to pour some anti freeze in the center tank, because it seems near impossible to get that tanks completely empty. Great tip on the bleach in the bags, I'll have to do that.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRHRSH

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

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I had thought I removed 5 but realized today that I only removed 4. I have the 2 blue plastic wing nut looking plugs. One is from the manifold crossover. The 2nd is from the tube between the raw water pump and transmission cooler. The 3rd is the drain plug/anode from the heat exchanger. The 4th is the plug/ anode on the rear of the V drive.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...767343861f.jpg
Which plug am I missing? My manual only indicates 4 plugs from my understanding. Thanks for the help!



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Attachment 25019

This is the picture I referenced in my suggested winterization. I found it in these forums and it was provided to another member by a guy from Skiers Choice. What puzzles me is why the manifolds need to be drained if they are part of the "closed" cooling system and cooled by antifreeze? Any ideas?

My understanding is that the exhaust manifolds are water cooled. The water is expelled through the exhaust port, isn't it?
That picture is too blurry for me to see anything.

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Mattsask, I believe you are correct.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattsask

My understanding is that the exhaust manifolds are water cooled. The water is expelled through the exhaust port, isn't it?

That picture is too blurry for me to see anything.

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You are exactly correct. The manifolds are cooled by "raw" water and must be drained. My information says they will drain through dripless packing. Then it states if there is no crossover hose or dripless packing to remove the drain plug from each manifold.
So that would be 2 plugs
One from heat exchanger
Plastic plug from tube between trans cooler and raw water pump
One from V drive( the picture you posted)

So I believe that is 5. Sorry the picture is poor. I used the forum tools to post it? I know a larger one is in the forum, but if you want it pm me with your e mail and maybe it will come through better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRHRSH

You are exactly correct. The manifolds are cooled by "raw" water and must be drained. My information says they will drain through dripless packing. Then it states if there is no crossover hose or dripless packing to remove the drain plug from each manifold.
So that would be 2 plugs
One from heat exchanger
Plastic plug from tube between trans cooler and raw water pump
One from V drive( the picture you posted)

So I believe that is 5. Sorry the picture is poor. I used the forum tools to post it? I know a larger one is in the forum, but if you want it pm me with your e mail and maybe it will come through better.

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Gotcha! It all makes perfect sense now. I had a hard time finding the crossover hose on the manifolds. I ended up removing the small floor panel beneath the back seat. I found it right away. Now that I know where it is I'm sure I can access it through the small v drive access panel. It was just impossible to get a visual on the hose without removing that section of floor. It was only 4 screws, so it would be worth having a look for future winterization jobs.

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c4e50ed69f.jpg

The Indmar sea strainer with flush kit make running anti-freeze simple. I just installed it in my Helix, easy job.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e7342e71f9.jpg


I plan to run anti-freeze thru the flush hose fitting while the boat is running at idle out of the water with the water pickup shutoff valve in the off position. Then pull all the drains, any objections?

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I would still pull the plugs and drain all the water before you fill with anti-freeze. Otherwise you'll just end up with diluted anti-freeze.

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That is the plan, just another level of protection against freezing.


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I just maybe over killing it here but before pulled the plugs I pulled in about 3 gallons (until it runs pink out exhaust) of RV anti and then pulled the plugs. Anti came out everywhere, this will keep residuals from hard freeze and also give a bit of added corrosion protection. Be sure to pull the strainer cap as well, that will hold water that won't drain from the trans plug.


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I have done everything on the check list. However, my manifolds have a 90 degree threaded plug and a hose that's connected to them, which leads to a T on top of the transmission and then down. I read somewhere that some have "self emptying" manifolds. I imagine mine is set up this way? None the less, I disconnected the hose at the T and got a little water out on both sides, but not a whole lot. Can anyone comment who has this set up?

The most water I had drain was out of the trans, and heat exchanger. Btw, I only had one plug on my exchanger, nowhere is the little plastic plug in the pictures that's floating around. My heat exchanger looks a little different then the photo as well. I can't find this "plastic plug" some people speak of.

I emptied my ballast bags and wiped them down. Cycled the pumps with the bags detached. I used a little rv antifreeze in the bottom hose and reconnected the bags and cycled the pumps again. Then I disconnected the bags again and used a shop vac to both blow the lines out, and I also sucked them out as well at the bottom / back connection.

Put stable into the tank and removed the battery.

Did I miss anything??

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...93d335bed9.jpghttps://vimeo.com/189042691

Changed the fluids, ran it to temp, drained the water, ran anti-freeze through it, drained it again from all points, and removed impeller from engine and Jabsco pumps. Sad day!


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Nice pail setup! I've been meaning to make one myself. Have you considered adding an adapter for the ballast quick connect fittings? I was thinking I'd add that when I put mine together. Would make winterizing the ballast a dream.

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I pulled both left and right back walls off to get to the pumps. It made removing the impellers easy. Like you said I would like to put a hose adapter T fitting in the bow pump line. This would allow me to get antifreeze into the hard center tank in the floor.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by doingr8

I pulled both left and right back walls off to get to the pumps. It made removing the impellers easy. Like you said I would like to put a hose adapter T fitting in the bow pump line. This would allow me to get antifreeze into the hard center tank in the floor.


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Haha ya, it would certainly be handy. I used a small funnel and poured about 15 L of antifreeze in there. It was a painfully slow and awkward process.

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Doingr8 and Mattsask - Do you guys have the 90 degree fitting and drain lines on your manifolds? I see both of your boats are 2016's (mine is a 2015).

I couldn't find the "plastic plug" on my heat exchanger, just the diode plug on the can looking portion. Any input on this?

Can you recommend what fitting (and where to buy it) to run the boat out of water?

My manifolds are connected together with a garden hose style disconnect. The 2 hoses come together over the top of the v drive. Best way to get to them is to remove the 4 screws to remove the v drive cover on the floor.

My heat exchanger has 2 plugs, both blue wing style. One is on the back and the other on the bottom of the heat exchanger.

I installed the Indmar inline water filter which has a garden hose attachment.


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Does the engine oil need to be sucked from the drain tube or can the tube be run out the back of the boat through the bilge plug hole and drained?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rdlangston13

Does the engine oil need to be sucked from the drain tube or can the tube be run out the back of the boat through the bilge plug hole and drained?

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Either. But it's a pain to run back through the drain hole. I just put the pump in the starboard rear area after removing the bag. Filter canister is right there also.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cffe8ab55e.jpg
With temperatures dipping into the low 20s for New Years we figured it was time to winterize.

Quick question, are we supposed to fog the raptors? I thought I heard somewhere that you are not supposed to fog the motors with catalytic converters


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No need to fog. Per people who know raptor motors.

And dang that’s a sweet mojo!

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So I didn’t fog the cylinders, two of the plug wires were going to require removal of the motor lifting points to remove so I just skipped that


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Do the newer raptor motors use the same water pump impeller as the old assault 325s?


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Do the Indmar v-drives/transmissions that come on the newer raptor 400s have a screen or filter that needs to be removed to clean during servicing?

Boy quick question.

2018 Moomba craz I have removed 3 blue wing nuts from 1 from
Transmission and other two from heat exchanger I have a gargen
Hose connection from my manifolds would that be the 2 wing nuts I’m missing
Or is there 2 blue wing nuts I can’t find

There is 5 drain points. 3 are blue wingnuts, one is the hose that connects the exhaust manifolds together, and the last is the water pump impeller housing


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rdlangston13

There is 5 drain points. 3 are blue wingnuts, one is the hose that connects the exhaust manifolds together, and the last is the water pump impeller housing


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David,

Do you have picture of the one at the water pump impeller by chance ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gaza7

David,

Do you have picture of the one at the water pump impeller by chance ?

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I don’t but it’s just the cover of the impeller housing itself. The housing is black and the cover is held on by 4 5/16 brass bolts (they may have black paint on them). It stick off the front of the motor (towards the back of the boat). There should be a stick on it that’s blue and says like 3 of 5 or something like that.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rdlangston13

I don’t but it’s just the cover of the impeller housing itself. The housing is black and the cover is held on by 4 5/16 brass bolts (they may have black paint on them). It stick off the front of the motor (towards the back of the boat). There should be a stick on it that’s blue and says like 3 of 5 or something like that.


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How do you remove the cover to drain? Unbolt?


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Bingo, remove the 4 5/16 bolts. There is a white foam gasket that seal the cover and it will stick so you may have to pry the cover off once the bolts are out


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Torque spec on reinstall?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by larry_arizona

Torque spec on reinstall?


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Haha.


Just snug it up, they 5/16 brass bolts so don’t go cranking on them super tight


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