2017 Mojo Stereo Noise

So we just finished our install in our new 2017 Mojo and we are trying to fight some noise issues. Below is what we have an how it is installed.

4 Rev10s powered by an SD2
6 XS650RGBs power by channels 1-4 of an SD6
1 XS12 Sub powered by channels 5-6 of the SD6
WS420

So I have two golf cart batteries wired in series to terminal 2 of the battery switch and one starting battery wired to terminal 1.
Coming off of the common post on the battery switch is the wire going to the starter, wire going to the breaker for the house accessories, and my power wire going to the my added distribution block.

Coming off my distribution block I have 4 gauge going to the SD2, 4 gauge going to the SD6, and 8 gauge going to a bus bar that I added on the back of the amp rack. The bus bar that I added provides power and ground to the factory Fusion head unit (turn on and actual power) and the 12V power for the WS420. The added bus bar also provides power and ground to relay I added for the remote turn on of the amps and WS420. When the fusion head unit is powered on it sends remote turn on power to the relay which in turn sends power to the amps and WS420.

My RGB controller gets its power from one of the stock acc switches at the helm and is grounded to the stock bus bar at the helm.

I have slight noise when the stock courtesy, nav, or anchor lights are on. Medium noise when the RGB lights are on. And bad noise when the ballast pumps are on. What did I do wrong here??


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Sounds like an install issue [emoji6]

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Originally Posted by Woody929

Sounds like an install issue [emoji6]

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Please point me to where I went wrong on the install loo


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I am leaning to the buss bar, when you tied the Acc switch into your Power and Ground of the stereo buss you introduced that noise in the system.

You can use the Remote turn on Relay in this junction to send the remote turn on signals.

I have the ACC switch powering my head unit, my head unit is grounded the same location as my stereo amps.
How ever nothing else on my ACC switch have any common ground to my stereo system.

I would move > My RGB controller gets its power from one of the stock acc switches at the helm and is grounded to the stock bus bar at the helm <
Move the ground. I think this needs to be grounded with your stereo buss ground.

My other concern is you have the Power to the head unit tied into your Amp buss, noise from your ACC might be traveling to your head unit, and because power and ground are on your buss traveling to the stereo.

I kept my head unit power in the factory power location and only moved the ground.

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Originally Posted by mmandley

I am leaning to the buss bar, when you tied the Acc switch into your Power and Ground of the stereo buss you introduced that noise in the system.

You can use the Remote turn on Relay in this junction to send the remote turn on signals.

I have the ACC switch powering my head unit, my head unit is grounded the same location as my stereo amps.
How ever nothing else on my ACC switch have any common ground to my stereo system.

I would move > My RGB controller gets its power from one of the stock acc switches at the helm and is grounded to the stock bus bar at the helm <
Move the ground. I think this needs to be grounded with your stereo buss ground.

My other concern is you have the Power to the head unit tied into your Amp buss, noise from your ACC might be traveling to your head unit, and because power and ground are on your buss traveling to the stereo.

I kept my head unit power in the factory power location and only moved the ground.

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So I don't have an acc switch for the head unit turn on. The 12V turn on for the head unit is always seeing power. I just use the on off button to turn it on and off. The Acc switch ONLY controls the RGBs.


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Then my only other thought is the power wire from your Battery Switch power wire going to the my added distribution block.

Is the added distribution on your stereo side?

I have all my stereo power ground distribution blocks ran directly to the golf cart battery bank. My golf cart bank goes to my battery switch.

The only downside is if my golf cart batteries go dead, I have no stereo. I have to start the boat up and let them charge up.

I have my golf cart bank completely isolated from the house power other then a ground wire connecting the two banks, and the battery switch getting power on post 1 and 2.

The added distribution block goes from the common terminal of the battery switch and deploys off to all the audio components. I think I found the problem. I think I need to move the house ground to my added distribution block as per this

"All audio source unit and processor supplies and grounds will be removed from the factory harness and procurred from the same distribution blocks as feeding the amplifiers. You will fuse the source unit supply at or close to the positive distribution block. Use a 14 ga. min./ 12 ga. max. + & - for the source electronics run. You'll have no noise with this scheme.







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If you have a House ground sharing anything with Audio then you can expect to hear house noise in the audio

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Originally Posted by mmandley

If you have a House ground sharing anything with Audio then you can expect to hear house noise in the audio

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Hhhmmmm not according to that. Interesting


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All grounds end up common, but the difference is the distance separating their terminations. In some cases, a common BUS is not as good as the main audio trunk ground being battery direct.

Are the head unit EQ sharing a common B+ and B- that branch off to each behind the helm or does each have its own B+ and B- coming off the audio distribution block on the port side? A little difference in resistance could create a ground loop.

Also, have you moved the ground reference jumper in the WS-420?