Prop Shaft Coupler Removal

Here is a spare prop shaft and coupler I have and will show the coupler removal.

Tools 5/8" wrenches
3/16" allen wrench
1 1/16" or 1" socket
13/16" socket

1. unscrew allen holding screw on coupler
2. remove 5/8" coupler bolts
3. push coupler away from vdrive and insert 1 or 1 1/16 socket and loosen coupler shaft bolt
4. insert 13 /16 socket over shaft between shaft and vdrive plate , reinstall 2 coupler bolts and tighten slowly 1/16 turn at a time to pop coupler free from shaft.
5. remove coupler bolts, unscrew coupler shaft bolt, slide coupler off WATCH FOR COUPLER SHAFT KEY.

you will want to use shallow sockets due to space between coupler and vdrive but the illustration below gives you the idea

http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0474.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0475.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0478.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0479.jpg

http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0480.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0482.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0483.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSCF0484.jpg

So do you think a shaft could be changed out without removing the v-drive?

Yes , but remove the prop first..........then the coupler the slide the shaft out thru the back.....that is why the rudder is offset from the shaft
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC04504.jpg

Does it slip right out of the seal and the strut?

yes you just pull it out past the rudder. Tape the keyway ( also sand the edges of the key way so there are no burs to catch on the seal)and threads with electrical tape tight on keyway so you don't damage the shaft seal. I would put a socket of slightly large diam than shaft in seal to maintain its shape and make it easier to slip new shaft back in. lube old and new shaft so it slide easily thru shaft seal.

Shoot. I need to go pick up my boat.

I did this just about a month ago. Fairly straight forward and easy. It's a pain to have to work around the v-drive to get to everything, but it's manageable. I would recommend removing the 1-1/4" cooling water line on the port side. I pulled the whole line out between the thru-hull and the v-drive. That gives you a bunch more room to maneuver down there.

Before I pulled the shaft out, I wrapped the threads and the keyway with electrical tape, but went a little high up on the taper with it. When we pulled the shaft thru, the shaft seals caught the tape, and just made a mess. So, I would just recommend using a small amount of electical tape only on the end of the keyway and tip of the shaft. When I put the shaft back thru the shaft seal, just sprayed it with a healthy dose of silicon spray, and it went right thru, no problem. My rudder wasn't off-set by a long ways, so pulling the shaft out made a very minor mark on the rudder. When we put it back in, I put a paper towel between the two, and that protected everything during the process.

I'm getting ready to do this. My new shaft will be here on Tues. Thanks so much for this explanation. The part about using the socket and the coupler's own bolts to press the coupler off the shaft makes perfect sense. Is there anything tricky about pressing the coupler back on the new shaft? Do you just tighten the nut, kind of like the prop nut at the other end? How do you know when it's tight enough? Is there a torque spec or anything?

Kane, replacing the coupler is pretty stright forward. As it's a tapered shaft with a key, there's really only one way it can go on. You can, as is mentioned when putting the propeller on, place the coupler on the shaft without the key, and mark it's location, then reinstall it with the key in place to be sure it's not sitting awkwardly on the key. But really, it's straight forward.

I believe there is a torque spec for the coupler nut (if I recall it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 or 70 foot pounds?) But it could be less. There is a keeper set screw, as Doug showed, on the side of the coupler, if you can get this lined up on a flat, and the nut is tight, you should be solid.

Good luck - you should have no problems - just the v-drive being in the worse place possible for this job!! I recommend anti-sieze on the coupling bolt threads - just in case...