Factory Sub Not Working.... Sub / Amp Help

Hi All,

My stock sub stopped working at one point last season, technical me pushed a couple of buttons on the Kicker amp and it started to work. It wasn't working again at the end of the season and at the current moment my stock sub is not working.

Could someone please let me know what position the buttons and switches on the Kicker amp should be in? For reference I have attached pics.

The Sub Level is all the way up on the head unit. Also what should the 'Sub Filter' be set at? 55 Hz? 160 Hz? What difference does the hertz setting make in performance or sound?

My system is all stock, no mods.

Attachment 27025Attachment 27026Attachment 27027

In your application, the "sub input" would be in the in position. This receives the audio signal from the Sub RCA from head unit. Out just gets the signal from the in-boats RCA and should also work. If neither position work, the amp chnls is down, the wires to the woofer are disconnected or the woofer is bad.

On rare occasions, corrosion in a switch can stop a speaker(s) from working and exercising the suspect switch can make it work again. Other wise, switches and setting would not cause it to stop working on its own.

If the issue is intermittent, move the switch to out and run it for a time. This eliminates the RCA and head unit sub output.

Tuning is a crap shoot at best, because of the poor execution of the woofer. We typically find an open topped wall and a woofer thats not a true IB (infinite baffle) running IB.

Yea, your stock subwoofer is never going to sound right until it's in a proper box. Might also want to check out a few articles like this one:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zhl7Mj...rs/tuning.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kaneboats

Yea, your stock subwoofer is never going to sound right until it's in a proper box. Might also want to check out a few articles like this one:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zhl7Mj...rs/tuning.html

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Sorry...not mewning to hijack. What are the options for closing in the stock sub? We added a closed 12 to the locker that sounds great. Would like the 10 in the helm to do better.

chawk610,

With a custom enclosure, you can retain the factory facade even with the woofer cutout already there. Its tight on some of the boats, easier on others as you have the steering cable to deal with as well as a narrowing hull towards the back of the enclosure and the bilge vent structure found on most moomba boats.

The payoff is 10-fold IMP. Not only do you place a woofer that needs to be in a small enclosure, in a small enclosure, but you close up open wall at the top of the false wall facade. The KM10 is an awesome sounding marine woofer when done correctly. .8ft3 internal is as small as I would want to go. 1.0 is about perfect. Shape does not impact a sealed enclosure, just makes it more complicated to build, but sometimes an odd shape is needed to get close to the desired volume.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MLA

chawk610,

With a custom enclosure, you can retain the factory facade even with the woofer cutout already there. Its tight on some of the boats, easier on others as you have the steering cable to deal with as well as a narrowing hull towards the back of the enclosure and the bilge vent structure found on most moomba boats.

The payoff is 10-fold IMP. Not only do you place a woofer that needs to be in a small enclosure, in a small enclosure, but you close up open wall at the top of the false wall facade. The KM10 is an awesome sounding marine woofer when done correctly. .8ft3 internal is as small as I would want to go. 1.0 is about perfect. Shape does not impact a sealed enclosure, just makes it more complicated to build, but sometimes an odd shape is needed to get close to the desired volume.

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Wow... ok. Next project!!