To change or not to change (the oil)?

[Garn]

I'm really getting contradicting advice on this. Should I change the oil now or should I change it in the Spring? I have been of the thought that I should change it now so it sits all Winter with good oil. But now I'm being told that I don't want the new oil to just sit all Winter. That the old oil is fine sitting in the boat because it is just in the oil pan anyway and that I should add new oil in the Spring so it is fresh. What is the right answer?

Garn

[Jon]

The very best thing to do is change the oil twice. I think changing the oil during winterization is the best if you are going to do it once.

[Jeff W]

There is no "right" answer. MOST people change it in the fall.

I change it in the spring. Just personal preference. I prefer to have truly fresh oil in the spring. People argue that setiments sink to the bottom and can cause issues by leaving it. The "best" is to do both.

I do mine in the spring. Personal preference and thoughts on oil life and breakdown.

[cab13367]

I've always changed mine in the fall during winterization. Probably doesn't make a whole of difference one way or the other. When spring comes, I want to be ready to roll and not have to worry about changing the oil.

I supposed you could drain the oil in the fall then wait until spring to fill it? Best of both worlds?? Just don't forget to fill it!!

[sandm]

change it in the fall so you are ready to roll in the spring. one less thing to do when that first nice day hits you want to go boating. no advantage to waiting, and waste of money to change in the fall then put new oil in again in the spring that hasn't been run..

[viking]

I agree! My thoughts exactly..........everyone's open to their own!!


change it in the fall so you are ready to roll in the spring. one less thing to do when that first nice day hits you want to go boating. no advantage to waiting, and waste of money to change in the fall then put new oil in again in the spring that hasn't been run..

[DOCDRS]

Condensation in the engine is very hard on the oil. this condensation and resultant water will cause acid build up in the oil with resultant corrosion of the engine. Therefore fresh oil in the fall and circulated thru the block on winterization is the optimum choice to eliminate these acids.

[Razzman]

I always change the oil before winterizing, you don't want the old oil full of contamination sitting in the block and suspended on parts for long periods. Changing the oil before flushes these contaminants. It's also not necessary to change again in the spring if you change it before winterizing, all your doing is flushing perfectly good oil.

[cab13367]

Condensation in the engine is very hard on the oil. this condensation and resultant water will cause acid build up in the oil with resultant corrosion of the engine. Therefore fresh oil in the fall and circulated thru the block on winterization is the optimum choice to eliminate these acids.

Doesn't this condensation occur every time we put the boat away after use? What does circulating the oil thru the block before putting it away for the winter accomplish, vs just changing the oil and not circulating it?

I changed the oil at the same time I winterized so I did not start the engine and circulate it after I changed it.

Doesn't fogging the engine with fogging oil prevent the corrosion inside the engine?

Brian Raymond from Indmar - would you please chime in?

Thanks,

Al

[DOCDRS]

Fogging just takes care of the upper combustion chamber,valves and manifolds. The rest of the engine, bearings,crankshaft, camshafts ets are lubed by the engine oil. So i just like them all being coated with fresh oil rather than the old acidic oil. Makes me feel better.

On a side note i also fill my filter with close to a litre of oil before i screw it on so there is little if any oiless time

Now just to throw a twist into this. There is debate if fogging is necessary at all. With the new Cat engines fogging is contraindicated as the oil can interfere with the cats. I think it may be more to do with the O2 sensors rather than the cat themselves as they get pretty hot and i would think thatany oil would be burnt off, unless the oil gets them too hot and aids in the breakdown or melting of the matrix. I think and engine guy is needed here.

[Razzman]

Indmar states to fog the CAT engines through the spark plug holes, not the manifold. States this in the owners manual as well.

[brain_rinse]

I vote fall

[Razzman]

To further this debate, Indmar does specifically say to change ALL fluids before putting boat up for the season in the owners manual as well.

[cab13367]

Razz,

Do u run the engine after u change the oil, then winterize? Or do u change the oil at the same time u winterize?

Al

[Razzman]

I do it at the same time.

[VA LSV]

FAQ's from Indmar's website. Scroll down to answers for winterization & maintenance.

http://www.indmar.com/About/ContactIndmar/faq.html

[TSC]

Got me thinking....should I have had the oil changed at winterization. Didn't do it because the oil was changed at the 24hr mark and only put another 6-7hrs on her before the season was over?

[Razzman]

In your case TSC i'm sure your fine.

[DOCDRS]

Here is the scoop i found on a another site regarding fogging the cat engines. Seems pretty sensible and to be written by an indmar guy

'''''If you don't mind, I wanted to add 2 cents about fogging the engine cylinders. I just read your .pdf and those directions are great and will work for most boats but Catalyst exhaust engines need to be handled different.

Since 2007, at Indmar and Malibu service school each year. We've been taught that if the engine has Catalyst exhaust, the engine CAN NOT be fogged thru the throttle body with the engine running like your instructions say. Raw oil on the catalyst can cause catastrophic failure to the catalyst and leave the owner with a headache of issues and or expenses.

The factoid stating that pulling the spark plugs and squirting fogging oil or any other substance can cause Hydraulic lock is partially true if it not done properly. A squirt for 3 seconds is more than plenty to coat the cylinder ring and protect it for seasonal storage and will not cause catastrophic damage. The goal in mind is to prevent piston rings from sticking from lack of lubrication from sitting over the winter or inactivity. The fogging oil is there to provide that lubrication at the first start up the following year.

I hope this info makes sense, i just don't want anybody to learn the hard way since I'm sure the Catalyst elements are really expensive and Indmar made it pretty clear at school that they do not want fogging oil to get on the catalyst and sit all winter.

-Paul'''''''''


guess i'll be pulling my plugs next weekend

[Razzman]

Like i said before, it's in your manual, for which Indmar supplies the info to SC. Just for the record a lot (if not all) of these questions are in your manuals and definitely on Indmars web site.