View Full Version : Packing Issues

08-13-2009, 05:12 PM
2006 Mobius LSV

I started having major leaking around the packing nut at the end of the 2007 season. I had a professional re-pack it and didn't run it much until the start of 2008. Throughout the 2008 season I had leak issues off and on but I just adjusted the nut from time to time to fix. I re-packed the nut again just before this season (2009) and I'm already having major leaking again.

I'm using three peices of the smaller 3/16" packing which was a B#@$% to get out and then to re-pack so I can't imagine its too small. I don't think any larger would fit. What could be causing the excessive leaking/wear? Or is it normal to have to adjust the nut once a month after you start messing with it? Could my shaft be bent and causing excessive wear? I don't have any abnormal vibration.

It is very frustrating to keep having this reoccur and having to adjust the packing nut ever time out to keep from working my bilge pump to death.

Any ideas?

08-14-2009, 07:46 PM
May just want to do a sanity check with the manual and see if you need the 1/4 inch packing. I don't know the spec on Vdrives.

08-15-2009, 12:07 AM
Nah, I got the documentation from Brian Raymond that says 3/16 for v-drives and 1/4 for DDs. What about adding another piece (4th) instead of replacing the three that are in there. I've only put about 30 hours on the boat since last replacing the packing. Now its leaking farely heavy, but when I hand tighten it doesn't seem to get any better. If I back it off a bit, there seems to be a sweet spot where if just drips but after running for a bit it starts leaking heavily again. This is what I've been dealing with for about two years now. I seem to get it fixed while sitting still, but then after running a minimal amount of time it starts leaking again. When I check the jam nut is tight against the packing nut so its not as though its coming loose. Any more ideas or suggestions?

08-15-2009, 12:46 AM
I am glad you checked. I wasn't trying to insult your intellegence. I am assuming you offset the spacing/gaps by 90 degrees. interesting problem. I hope someone has some input for the group....

08-18-2009, 09:50 AM
Yes I offset the joints for each piece of packing. I'm fairly certain the packing is installed correctly as I followed the directions given here. I also observed the technician install the packing the first time and followed closely his process when I replaced the packing myself.

Has anyone else had repeated issues with their packing leaking excessively?

08-18-2009, 09:34 PM
Yes, having the same issue with my 06 LSV. This last time, I had three peices in, ran it multiple time and kept adjusting it. Finally had to put in a forth peice as I was running out of adjustment. Seems ok now, but only have 10 hours or so since the forth piece. Looked into upgrading to the dripless packing system that is on the 07s. Part are less than 300, but labor will get you up to 600 or so. I was worried about a bent shaft or ovaled out v drive as well.

08-19-2009, 09:39 AM
I have the same problem with my 06 LSV. I had the packing replaced by dealer last summer and it was leaking alot this summer so i replaced it once and put 2 rings in, then later when back and added a 3rd. Solved the problem for about the 1st 35 hours on the new packing, but now about 50 hrs since changing it apears to be leaking again and I don't want to tighten the nut too much. Prob going to try to change the packing again since its only like 12 bucks for a new package of the GFO, much cheaper than a new driveshaft. Going to try to do it this week and test it this weekend.

08-20-2009, 06:50 AM
Dripless packing kit is $149 for OJ & $199 for PSS from Skidim. I went with OJ on my 05 LSV and haven't had to worry about shaft packing for 2 seasons now. SC uses OJ.

Tight space to work in but wasn't difficult. Drive shaft and flange are taper fit. Only time I needed a 2nd person was to push on the drive shaft from the outside while I slid the dripless seal on the shaft inside the boat.

Here are tips I got off the boards for removing the drive shaft from transmission flange.

"Once you unbolt the shaft flange from the transmission you will have to take off the nut holding the flange to the drive shaft. To do this you will need to find a block of wood to rest the prop on to keep the shaft from turning, it will take a 1 1'16 socket to unscrew the nut from the driveshaft. Dont worry, no damage will be done to the prop. Once you get the nut off you will put a spacer, I used a socket betweet the end of the drive shaft and the transmission, get some 4" bolts and nuts to fit, bolt the flange back to the transmission with the spacer in between and slowly tighten the nuts, this will pull the flange off the shaft."