Dying Battery

[Kelsey]

My 04 XLV has a slow battery drain. Each weekend when I put it on the water, the battery has juice, but not enough to fire up the engine. I keep a portable battery pack on the boat as a precaution.

Once I jump it and run it for a while, it is fine for the rest of the weekend, but then again the next Friday, the same issue.

What are the usual suspects? I have an aftermarket stereo installed by circuit city....which doesn't help because my warranties are now as good as toilet paper.

I think I heard the speakers "pop" a few times yesterday....but the stereo switch on the dashboard was off...

Battery was replaced last summer....Suggestions?

[mmandley]

Sounds like a constant drain on the battery

Take a Test light, unhook the Negative terminal and connect the test light between the cable and battery.

If the test light lights up you have a residual drain on the battery. Now its a matter of unhooking each things till that light goes out.

Once it does then you found the problem.

If you think you herd the speakers pop then id start by checking to see if the Amps are on all the time.

Most amy have a switch on there side that says

12VDC - 12 Sig - RMT..

Meaning they come on at a 12V DC signal. Or any batter signal or only from a remote signal from the deck.

[Trashy]

How old are your batteries? It sounds like you might need to change them out and buy a new set. I don't know where you live but where I live it's very hot in the summer and a boat battery last only about two years.

[Kelsey]

The battery is only 1 year old....and I'm in the midwest....I don't think it's a heat issue...our hottest day so far this year has been mid 80's

[Kelsey]

Sounds like a constant drain on the battery

Take a Test light, unhook the Negative terminal and connect the test light between the cable and battery.

If the test light lights up you have a residual drain on the battery. Now its a matter of unhooking each things till that light goes out.

Once it does then you found the problem.

If you think you herd the speakers pop then id start by checking to see if the Amps are on all the time.

Most amy have a switch on there side that says

12VDC - 12 Sig - RMT..

Meaning they come on at a 12V DC signal. Or any batter signal or only from a remote signal from the deck.

thanks for the help...I will try that. On the amps, it sounds like there will be three potential settings for each one? And that possibly one got bumped and is staying on? What setting should it be on?

[Kelsey]

I currently have 1 speaker that is unplugged, it went bad over the winter....I am waiting on my replacement (circuit city again).

Could this be it? Even though the stereo switch is in an off setting?

[Razzman]

Trashy that sounds a bit odd as where i live the average summer ranges 95-105 and on my last boat i got four years. A buddy is on year four on his and my brother-in-law is starting year five! Do you keep them on a trickle charger all winter and when not in use?

[Razzman]

Kelsey if those batts are the originals then it's probably time to replace. I highly recommend Costco's Kirkland brand as one they are Interstate batts and real good and two if something happens you can just take it back! Some recommend Optimas or other exotic batts but for the money imo they just aren't worth it, but then again like i said it's just my opinion. :D

[ToddXLV]

One thing so you can do to make sure nothing draws power when you're not using the boat. There is a main breaker switch (at least on my 06 XLV) that should be installed right below the battery switch. I always press that button and open the breaker when I am done boating. So no power can be drawn from any accessory no matter what. I started doing that when my bilge pump started automatically turning on because it became unmounted somehow.

[kaneboats]

I wasn't able to fire up the other day in the driveway. I put the battery on charge for a couple days and it wouldn't turn the motor over. Guess I'm in for a new one too. Of course I'd much rather find out in the driveway.

[mmandley]

Amp switch should be set to remote turn on if you have a remote wire going to it, it will only turn on when the deck is on.

Other wise you can use the 12V DC option just make sure the amp lights are only on when the Stereo switch to the boat is on.

[Kelsey]

One thing so you can do to make sure nothing draws power when you're not using the boat. There is a main breaker switch (at least on my 06 XLV) that should be installed right below the battery switch. I always press that button and open the breaker when I am done boating. So no power can be drawn from any accessory no matter what. I started doing that when my bilge pump started automatically turning on because it became unmounted somehow.

Todd,

Where is this battery switch, etc?....If I have one, I have never seen it.

[mmandley]

Im assuming he means this switch. Its the small dark colored one under the bright read perko switch.

[Kelsey]

Yes...I do have one of those. So all I need to do is push that button and it will open the circuit?...sorry boat is 3 hrs away other wise i would just go check myself.

[mmandley]

I honestly cant recall. I will check in the am Fierah is in the street tonight with the cover on because i have the 20hr service tomorrow afternoon. I will open the cover and check it out.

Its just a push button so its eighter on or off. In if i recall is On and Out is tripped so it would be off.

[ToddXLV]

Im assuming he means this switch. Its the small dark colored one under the bright read perko switch.

Yep, mmandley is correct. Kelsey, yes all you have to do is push that button and a little plastic leg will pop down. When you go to use your boat again all you do is push that little plastic leg up to close the breaker and connect all power. It's a great peace of mind to know that no power can be drained even from the smallest accesory like a cell phone charger.

[Waynes345]

My 04 XLV has a slow battery drain. Each weekend when I put it on the water, the battery has juice, but not enough to fire up the engine. I keep a portable battery pack on the boat as a precaution.
Once I jump it and run it for a while, it is fine for the rest of the weekend, but then again the next Friday, the same issue.

I was following this thread as I was having a similar problem with my boat. Put it in with the battery fully charged and then put it on the ShoreStation for a couple weeks. Next trip out, not enough juice to crank the engine. Pulled and charged the battery only to have the same issue the next weekend. Pulled the battery out, charged it and left it in my basement. Got back a week later and the battery was under 5% again on the charger. Bought it last year, but it must have been defective. Replaced the darn thing and off we go. At least it wasn't electrical as I was primed to be testing everything all weekend.

[gcnettl]

Batteries are just batteries and not all of them are the same. Some new batteries can actually test bad. I worked for an auto parts store in high school, and some "new batteries" on our shelf would actually fail a battery test. The expensive line of batteries that we sold would not. But most people go for the cheap or middle battery.

You may pull your batteries and take them to your local auto parts store and have them load tested. You may want to charge them before you go, and explain that to them, or else they will charge your battery and test it. If you charge them, insist that they load test it first and then you will know. With their machine, it will give you your cranking amp capacity for that battery.

If you have a digital voltmeter, then you may check the battery with the cables on. Let's say it reads 12.4 V. Now disconnect your negative cable. Recheck your battery. If it still reads 12.4 V, then you have no drain on your battery.

You should have a battery isolation switch, or a main circuit breaker that others have mentioned. If you find that it is draining, simply open the breaker or the isolator switch.

I have to replace my batteries about every other year, and getting the expensive battery, it comes with a 3 year free replacement, so it works out.

[ToddXLV]

Batteries are just batteries and not all of them are the same. Some new batteries can actually test bad. I worked for an auto parts store in high school, and some "new batteries" on our shelf would actually fail a battery test. The expensive line of batteries that we sold would not. But most people go for the cheap or middle battery.

You may pull your batteries and take them to your local auto parts store and have them load tested. You may want to charge them before you go, and explain that to them, or else they will charge your battery and test it. If you charge them, insist that they load test it first and then you will know. With their machine, it will give you your cranking amp capacity for that battery.

If you have a digital voltmeter, then you may check the battery with the cables on. Let's say it reads 12.4 V. Now disconnect your negative cable. Recheck your battery. If it still reads 12.4 V, then you have no drain on your battery.

You should have a battery isolation switch, or a main circuit breaker that others have mentioned. If you find that it is draining, simply open the breaker or the isolator switch.

I have to replace my batteries about every other year, and getting the expensive battery, it comes with a 3 year free replacement, so it works out.


I'm going on the 3rd year with these Interstate batteries that came with my XLV and they are still holding charge like a champ. I always disconnect my batteries in the off season and open the breaker everytime I pull the boat out of the water at the end of the day. So there is no drain on my batteries at all when the boat is not in the water.

I also use a 1.5 farad cap for my stereo system so the amp doesn't put too much load on the batteries when the stereo is blasting.

[gcnettl]

I don't use a capacitor, but I do have a 200 amp alternator. I have not tried interstate yet, but I do believe the brand of battery makes a difference. I disconnect my batteries in the off season, but I don't trickle charge them. It's not that big of a problem for me, as these Durolast gold batteries have such a long warranty. I just take them in and swap them out for a new one. I don't like to open the breaker or turn the selector switch to off as I lose my PP settings and radio settings during the season.