carburetor rebuild complete - wow!!!

[Chris_B]

If you remember back to last summer, I posted questions about the lack of hole shot in my DD (as compared to my old 165HP sterndrive, it was negligibly better). I replaced the fuel filter and it got better. Then, recently the boat began to run very, very rich. Thinking it was the power valve, I decided to do the dreaded rebuild and purchased the kit from SKIDIM. Remarkably, the worst part of the rebuild was getting the old gasket material off of the baseplate, metering blocks, and fuel bowls. I also had some trouble w/ the secondary float adjustment. Ultimately, I had to take the float spring out (anyone know what impact the missing float spring will have?).

Took the boat out last night for a test and tune. Holy smokes! That's the holeshot I was expecting from a DD! It seems like the top speed is a little lower now, but seeing as I don't barefoot, I can live with 40.

I am having a little trouble starting it cold, so I'm still messing with the choke (although air temp is 60+ degrees here).

Can't wait to get behind it on a ski!

[Chris_B]

Looking through various manuals and how-tos, it seems that the two best ways to adjust the idle-mixture screws are to use an external tachometer or a vacuum gauge. I have both, but can't figure out where to hook them up.

For the vacuum gauge - is there a port that I can tap into to read the vacuum (I have the Holley 4150)?

For the external tach - I can't find the correct wire going to the distributor to hook to (no coil?). Anybody hook one up before?

Thanks,
Chris

[kaneboats]

This is pretty specific. You might try sending a PM to enginenut. Good luck!

[mustangairchair]

hi there your tack signal is the negitive from the coil. the timing light you have must be old all the new ones are inductive pickup. vacuum gauge is a good way to set mixture,the highest vacuum reading is the best setting .i just turn in the mixture screws till it starts to run poor and then turn them out 1/2 turn on a holly