View Full Version : How would you fix this?

03-08-2009, 11:10 PM
***Updated...see last post. I need part numbers or manufacturer for rub rail assembly pieces if anyone knows***

Found out what happens when you cruise onto the trailer that's backed too far in a bit too fast. I backed the trailer in, my wife drove onto the trailer, so we were both at fault. Looks like we found a situation that PP doesn't handle!

So what is the course of action for this? Does the entire rub rail have to be replaced or can just a section be replaced? No fiberglass was damaged thankfully, but it is a pretty deep gash on both sides. Hopefully the pics are sufficient.

03-08-2009, 11:20 PM
I really feel for you, but that being said ... I imagine you could replace just the damaged section but it wouldn't look very nice as you'd have to have the joint connectors. I'd just suck it up and replace the whole thing and feel really lucky the rubrail did it's job. My 2 cents :o

03-08-2009, 11:27 PM
I agree - it's probably best to replace the entire rail. Is this something I can do without taking it in? Anyone know an estimated cost on the rub rail?

03-09-2009, 12:11 AM
That is bummer. What happened, did the nose go under the roller?

03-09-2009, 12:21 AM
That's exactly what happened. We were running late...stayed on the water longer than we were supposed too (who doesn't). I backed in too deep and the nose went under the roller, and presto. Two nice gashes. At least the rub rail did it's job...even though we didn't do ours!

03-09-2009, 12:43 AM
Man i am sorry to see that. The rub rail has to be alot less to replace then the fiberglass. I have pulled a section of my rub rail before after a little dock accedent and it looks like it would not be that hard to replace. I think it is single peice that you just have to feed all the way around the boat. Should be somthing you can do at home. Let us know how it goes if you decide to do it at home.

03-09-2009, 12:12 PM
There was a guy on here in Europe somewhere.. Holland or something that had a Beautiful 07 and 08 ALL Blue LSV .. he replaced the rail on his 07 to be white. Sounded like he did it himself..

03-09-2009, 07:31 PM
good time to upgrade to the stainless steel rubrail.

03-09-2009, 09:44 PM
Actually, Fiberglass repair would have been much cheaper.

Sorry that it happened. You could replace just a section or the whole thing. You will have to decide what will make you happy. Boater's world, BoatUS, West Marine have the rub rail or can get it quickly. You could go old school and do rope rub rail, which would be the cheapest. Stainless will be very expensive (@ $800 I believe).
Or you can just live with it til you are ready to sell.

Good Luck.

03-10-2009, 11:58 AM
Do they have any kind of rubber filler?

03-10-2009, 12:27 PM
Cheap temporary repair is to use black caulk to fill, then cover with cellophane and smooth. Peel the plastic off when the caulk sets up. This won't last forever but will keep it from being so unsightly till you make up your mind about replacement.

05-29-2009, 03:40 AM
Ok so I need to fix this so I can sell my boat (looking to upgrade). Dealer quoted between 800 and 1k to fix, as it's not only the outer rub rail but the piece that holds the rub rail. My question for the board is does anyone know the manufacturer of the rub rail assembly? Seems like a job that can be done with a bit of time and patience, but looking at West Marine, iboats.com, etc. has me overwhelmed with choices. I assume I can get this info from the dealer, but if not ordering through them I'd rather get if from you guys if possible.

05-29-2009, 10:24 AM
it should be taco marine rubrail. i ordered some direct from skier's choice both the rubrail and the insert. you will need to start in the back and 1st remove the insert then unscrew the actual rail.

i used a heat gun to do the install.

maybe a 6 hour job.

05-29-2009, 10:32 AM
I replaced the rub rail on an old boat quite awhile ago. I pulled the center section of the rub rail out and found the rub rail holder was held in place by big rivets. I drilled them out, that took the longest amount of time and there was a lot of them. When I installed the new one, i bought the same size rivets and most of them worked, I did need a few oversized rivets for theholes that were too big for originals. Idont know if the moomba is the same as the old 80's ?? cobra jet.

05-29-2009, 12:14 PM
Does anyone have a number to Skier's Choice where I could order direct? I assume I can tell them my boat year and model and they can match it. Also, anyone know an approximate cost?

05-29-2009, 12:51 PM
Only number listed 865.983.9924

They may sell direct but don't be suprised if they won't, they'll probably redirect you to a local dealer.

05-29-2009, 01:02 PM
the part guru at sc is anthony cooper. if he is still around.

06-01-2009, 11:35 AM
Almost had the same thing happen Saturday . Wife drives boat onto trailer backed in a little too deep. Busy at the ramp and she started in towards the trailer about 150' out at an idle and never put it in neutral at all . If you don't keep it in forward gear the boat will lose steering , I tried to explain to her that if you put it in forward for a while then neutral it will keep the speed down so the boat doesn't hit the trailer so fast. Jim .

06-01-2009, 11:42 AM
Another thing ill do for trailering also is aim a little to the right of the center of the trailer. Keeping it in gear and just as you are about to get to the trailer you can use reverse to slow you down..it will pull the nose to the center of the trailer then i grab the guide poles on the trailer to center the boat and pull it into the trailer a bit.

Then drive it up the rest slow and easy

06-01-2009, 01:38 PM
Those guide rails on the trailer on your friend. I finally got my wife to understand that. She can actually drive the boat onto the trailer pretty good now. But I do not want her powering the boat all the way to the roller unless we are a little shallow and the boat is alread resting on the trailer half way. As long as we can get within a foot of the roller I will winch it the rest of the way unless it's really difficult then I will ask her to give it a little power to assist. Powering the boat all the way to the roller is never in a good idea in my opinion since bad things can and will happen. I always think people that power their boats all the way up the roller are risky.

06-01-2009, 07:00 PM
I agree Todd, i mistyped my explanation there a little. What i meant to say was i power the boat up slowly while one of the crew is cranking the boat up the trailer. I power it slowly to east the cranking process. I don't like using the engine to lock the boat on the roller.

First few times out i powered it all the way up because thats what i thought i had to do. The guys i water tested with did this. Then i had an almost accident when the ramp angle, water depth made it difficult to trailer and i was afraid the nose would hit the roller, so thats when i started cranking it by hand the last few feet.

06-01-2009, 09:13 PM
Same thing here.....First year we had the boat, maybe 2nd or 3rd time out....put the trailer way to deep, powered onto the trailer and bam...a nice chunk out of my gelcoat right above the rubrail

Now I put the trailer in much less, and baby the boat onto the trailer. Nice and slow with lots of winch assistance. I don't care of the others on the ramp get annoyed...it's my $...

Even with all this caution, I still get white marks on my rub rails from time to time from the guide poles. Magic erasers take it off with a little elbow grease.

06-01-2009, 09:51 PM
Man that sucks, but if your selling her try a simple repair as was suggested earlier and maybe a little spray paint.