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Chris_B
02-03-2009, 03:36 AM
I have an '01 carb'd Outback. It had about 160 hours on it when I bought it around July. It ran good (except for some "loping" at idle occasionally), but I replaced the fuel filter and it ran better. I stopped using it at summer's end, but took it out again around October. It blew smoke out terribly and ran like crap. I brought it home and it ran fine in the driveway, so I just assumed that the choke had malfunctioned.

Now, I took it out again for the first time since October. It is smoking even more (definitely running rich - not oil or water). The idle is extremely rough and often times needs some extra throttle just too start. Reading over earlier posts, I now believe that the rough idle I experienced over the summer was due to the fuel/air mixture adjustment. However, the screws are at exactly 1-1/2 turns each side - so that isn't the cause of my terrible problem now.

I'm thinking that the problem might be debris in the needle valve or a stuck float. Any other thoughts?

I also read on an earlier post that the Holley 4150 was bronze/brown. I believe that mine is the 4150 rather than the 4010, but it is silver. Is this it indeed a 4150?

Thanks,
Chris

RYAN
02-03-2009, 03:25 PM
CHRIS
I had a similar problem last year, I found water in the carb and in the fuel tank. The o ring on the gas cap was bad. I replaced the ring, changed the fuel filter, drained the tank and bought a carb rebuild kit from the part store for about 30 bucks. After all that I still had the problem. I took it to my mechanic and he found that the engine timing was off and a small piece of debris was in the carb which made that boat run richer. Also I replaced the spark plugs a lot, it helped me a lot during the year.
It’s hard for me to narrow it down to your problem because mine had so many of them. The best advice I can give you is to start with the cheap stuff first then move up... hope this helps

Chris_B
02-03-2009, 09:53 PM
I could see water in the gas causing the sputtering and loping that I experienced before the recent "way too rich" problem. I would buy the debris in the carb, a stuck needle valve, a stuck float, or some other carb-specific issue as the current cause of my problem. Another thought is that a stuck choke initially may have fouled the plugs which has now exacerbated the problem. Does that seem plausible?

As far as the timing, I was under the impression that it couldn't be adjusted manually, but rather had to be adjusted via the computer. Is that correct?

What carb is actually on the '01 Indmar?

RYAN
02-03-2009, 11:44 PM
After dealing with mine, everything is possible with the carb. Once water got in to the fuel system all hell broke loose. From what you described maybe a good cleaning of the carb and new spark plugs may do the trick. If you don’t feel comfortable working or rebulding it, just take it in and have a professional do it, mine was around 100-200 bucks.
"As far as the timing, I was under the impression that it couldn't be adjusted manually, but rather had to be adjusted via the computer. Is that correct?"
To answer your question; looking back on my original post I probably shouldn’t have put it in their but my timing was ten degrees off which made a big difference. From what ive learned the timing doesn’t need to be adjusted that often and it’s not normally a problem that just comes out of no where. You can adjust it manually but for you to get the timing correct it requires timing light not a computer, most new cars etc do require a computer.
As to the correct carb, im unsure, I got to snooping around on one of the old manuals on this web site and found what mine was suppose to be. I’m sure a few Moomba readers should help you out , let me know how it goes.

Chris_B
02-04-2009, 12:59 AM
regarding timing, reference this page https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=37&highlight=setting+timing I'll check the timing this weekend using this method and replace the plugs, but I'm fairly certain it's a fuel issue. I just wish I knew whether it was a 4150 or a 4010 to order the carb kit.

Interestingly, the shop manual says that it cannot be done w/o an adapter to set the electronic timing control module to base mode.

Brian Raymond
02-05-2009, 11:26 AM
The 4010 is silver in color and has either phillips or torx screws that mount the top to the body. The 4150 is bronze in color and has (4) 5/16" bolts that mount the primary and secondary bowls to the body. Hope this helps, keep us posted. Brian Raymond