View Full Version : Pictures of my Clarion set up

06-16-2008, 06:45 PM
I want to add one more JL300/2 because my installer talked me out of using both for the tower. I went with his suggestion and replaced the JL 6450 with the other 300/2. It is a completely different amp. The interior speakers POUND now. I want to add another sub so I am looking for a JL 500/1 to run both P2's. After Cliff tuned the sub amp that I installed last year the Rockford P2 is an amazing sub.

06-17-2008, 10:56 AM
Looks good. Let's see the amps!

06-17-2008, 02:07 PM
Very clean,

Can't beat the wetsounds, it'll be easier to find ya on the lake now, we'll hear you a mile out!!!

06-17-2008, 02:44 PM

I like how the location of the remote turned out. Looks like it was meant to be there.

How about a pic of the billet piece that you were planning to cover up the old remote hole with?


06-17-2008, 02:46 PM
Never mind - I see that the old remote is still in place.


06-17-2008, 04:47 PM
Cab, funny you ask that. I was at the Machine shop yesterday to give some final details to how I wanted it to look. They should be running it today and they were going to shoot a picture of it and send it me Wednesday. It's going to be the same shape and size of the radio puck, with Moomba milled in to it and then chromed. The script should look like the cast cleats do.
The only photo I have now is of the 2 JL 300/2. I need to sell that radio---hint, hint.. to have enough to get the 3rd JL 300/2. Thanks to all who bought the remotes your contribution is greatly appreciated. When I put in the next amp I will put in the WS-420.

Who all here is using an isolator and a second battery vs the dual factory switch and battery?

I'm glad ya'll like the dash remote local, it to me seemed the right choice and the least destructive to the boat. After a week of using the boat its the most natural place because you can leave your right hand on the gear lever and use the left hand to pause and unpause when you get underway. I'll snap a pic of the transom remote this weekend. I still have one small hole to have repair/ gel coated because I was only able to cover 2 with the new hole.

Any body need a new JL 12w6 sub ?? I'm going to get a second RF P2 because I am thrill with the performance of the one I have.

06-18-2008, 03:19 PM
I never knew the side wall carpet under the dash was so dirty?? Looks like I have something else to clean. By the way I had the interior carpet professionally steam cleaned last week, Boy thats the best 35 dollars I've ever spent.

ian ashton
06-18-2008, 04:23 PM
Looks very nice!

Your boat has to be incredibly loud; I've only got 1 Kicker 700.5, 6 Polk db650's and a single Kicker L7 sub and I thought my stuff was loud, lol.

06-18-2008, 04:52 PM
Aqua, i'm in-process of replacing tha factory dual batt perko for a new setup. I hate Perkos and you cannot reliably add an Isolator with one. It will have the following components;

Blue Sea Systems 7610 ACR SI (http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/387)(1)
Blue Sea Systems 5511e battery switch (http://bluesea.com/category/1/products/5511e)(1)

Blue Sea Systems 185-series 7104 150a Thermal Breakers (http://bluesea.com/category/3/10/productline/overview/150) (2)

This will allow me to turn the switch to "on" at the beginning of the day. The ACR will isolate/combine batteries as neccessary. At the end of the day turn the switch to off. Much easier and about as easy as it gets to hands off. :D

It has smart technology as well as remote start cut-ff. It also has a "combine" position for emergency two-batt starting. The cost should be around $260 give or take a few.

06-18-2008, 05:48 PM
The dual battery setup I am/was/might use is the one I just got from the factory. BEPMARINE.com is the vendor. I called them today to ask a few questions and was happy to hear there anwsers. This is a VSR -volatage sensing relay- unit that will charge each battery one at a time. When either voltage goes below 12.8v the unit automatically charges the battery. So if Bat1 is my starting battery and Bat2 is my stereo battery, I can switch to 2 run it almost dead, change the switch to Bat 1 and start the boat. The battery below 12.8v will auto sense and begin charging till full.

I only worry that I want run the boat long enough to fully charge and run it to problems later. Is that system your installing similar??

06-18-2008, 05:51 PM
Blue Sea Systems 185-series 7104 150a Thermal Breakers----I already have one of these now. The BEp product seems to me like the way to go. Me Corn-fused?

06-18-2008, 06:21 PM
Very similar except that it's virtually hands off. One thing i don't need is to worry about what position my battery switch is in. In a low start batt condition i can switch to "combine" if i need to. The Blue Sea unit is an Automatic Charging Relay. My start batt only has the ignition circuit hooked to it. I had this same setup on my Tigé and never had an issue or reason to swithch to "combined" as i keep chargers on both batts when not in use.

06-18-2008, 06:22 PM
Me Corn-fused?


This will make four thermal relays i'll have! Talk about confused!

06-18-2008, 09:57 PM
Nice looking set up Auqa.

How did you find a shop to do all this custom billet work, and were they will and expensive for all this one off work?

06-18-2008, 11:36 PM
I have friends in important places. LOL ...Seriously, I have been luckly to meet good people with great talents. Just wait till you see the spinning board racks!!! Hows the Steering wheel Sled?

06-19-2008, 07:54 PM
Aqua, steering wheel, is great, was a fantastic addition. Still need to finish my depth gauge hook up, put in my Alpine amp and Kenwood sub, and I think I'm going to add a set of those foot steps we are discussing on another thread. Oh yeah and I'm going to have a custom snap on 2pc cover made this year yet.

06-27-2008, 01:32 PM
Here are a few pic's of my dash remote cover piece. It turned out pretty good.

06-27-2008, 02:39 PM
Here are a few pic's of my dash remote cover piece. It turned out pretty good.

Nice! How much did that cost?

I am needing one made to cover the hole where the ballast switches used to be. Would like it to be rectangular, about 4" in height and 7" in length with the Moomba logo etched in. It doesn't have to be very thick, 1/4" inch will do. Would you mind getting quote from your buddy?

You can see the hole in the pic below.