which Perko?

[clowninmd]

I'm discovering that there are a few different Perko switches. Which one is the way to go for two amps and the usual accessories?

[SanMarzano]

I would go with the 1, 2, All, Off version

[tlatoani]

I went with an automatic relay. No need to fiddle with a switch, or worry about my kids turning it off when the boat is running. Plus it is more efficient than an isolator.

Just something to consider.

[Razzman]

I'm in the no perko camp! I had an isolator on the previous boat and no intervention required. They installed a perko on the LSV and i can't stand it, always forgetting to switch between batts. I'm removing it and installing a regular so i don't have to mess with it!

[clowninmd]

so a regular isolator instead of a perko?

[tlatoani]

I'd look into relays vs isolators. This (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=3557&highlight=dual+battery)is a decent read. There is a ton of other info out there.

[moomba_armada]

I think if you don´t install a switch, you can´t disconnect the batteries...this doesn´t seem too safe.
I installed what SC recommended, check it please:


http://www.bepmarine.com/Single-Engine%2C-Two-Battery-Banks-180-1460.html

And leave it always in " 1 " position when running, you can switch to " 0 " when boat is not on the water, I think is safer, least I do this.

[Razzman]

There are other ways to disconnet the batts, i have a 50amp breaker as well. Push the button on the breaker and the batts are disconnected, flip the lever and they're connected. An iso/reg will charge both when running and disconnet the second batt while parked, that way it never drains the starting battery. A regulator has no amp/volt loss across the batts either. I ran the last boat two years that way without issues and i had a 1200 watt peak system in it. Disclaimer; just my 2 cents! :lol:

[Razzman]

Also remember that mfgrs recommendations will always err on the side of caution. They ALL recommend a battery disconnect for dual batts. The only exception i know of is Tigé which actually uses an iso/reg type system on their factory dual batt installs.

[tlatoani]

Yep, isolators and relays do disconnect the batteries when the ignition is off. It's just automatic so you don't have to mess with switches. The wiring is a bit more complex, but no big deal.

[jmvotto]

I am looking at adding a second battery just as a back up.

I am kinda technical challenged, what the diff betwenn the relay and the isolator. The MC post by deisel was pretty inightful for the BWD r3098. Not sure if I want to run the acc wire back to the Drivers side ignition and find that one switch. Any drawbacks to moombaa armada dual sensing switch.(The 714-100A uses our dual sensing VSR (710-125A-DS))

[Razzman]

I am looking at adding a second battery just as a back up.

I am kinda technical challenged, what the diff betwenn the relay and the isolator. The MC post by deisel was pretty inightful for the BWD r3098. Not sure if I want to run the acc wire back to the Drivers side ignition and find that one switch. Any drawbacks to moombaa armada dual sensing switch.(The 714-100A uses our dual sensing VSR (710-125A-DS))

That is why i ran an isolator on my last install, it's not neccessary to back trace. Here's how it works;
The pos/neg cables stay on the starting batt as setup from the factory

bridge the negatives between batts
positive from secondary batt to iso
additional positive from starting batt to iso
additional positive & negatives from secondary batt to distribution blocks for stereo

Here's a pic from my last boat showing the iso & dist blocks and another showing the amps on the other side of the center support. I did the design and install and never had any issues at all. BUT ... if you have one of those super killer 3000 watt stereos and play it at max power you'll drain the secondary batt real quick. If you have system like that or plan on one then look at this; http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/579882.html?1210947781 We just like the music when parked but it's never played loud enough to drain it. :cool:

[tlatoani]

I really don't know what the armada switch you are talking about is, so I'll leave that for another.

Finding the acc switch was pretty easy. It's the purple wire coming off of the back of the ignition (where the key is). I just unscrewed the purple wire (it has a metal ring on the end with a screw through it). Then crimp a ring terminal to the end of a stripped wire and put it on the same screw as the purple wire. If you have one of those cheap auto electronics kits in your boat (you should) it has a circuit tester. You touch the ground probe to a ground on your boat (there are a bunch under the dash, or a battery negative terminal) and the positive to the screw that the purple wire goes through. When the ignition is turned on (or to acc) it should light up the tester.

I bought the stinger version of the relay. It was about the same price (from ebay). An isolator does basically the same thing, but is an electronic version, where a relay is mechanical. A relay does have a limited life cycle, but it's something like 300k on/off switches. An isolator can get hot, and thus loses a bit of power to heat.

It's hard to go wrong whichever way you do it. Just be careful not to drop that socket wrench on the top of one of the batteries. Mine hit both terminals; it scared the crap out of me.

[jmvotto]

Armada, where can you get one of these. looks simple

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/714-100A_Lg.jpg


From the mfg.

the 714-100A uses our dual sensing VSR (710-125A-DS). A welcome addition to the 701 selector switch it ensures you will always have a fully charged reserve battery. When the switch is in position 1 it becomes the sensing battery for the VSR. Battery 2 which is in isolation will be charged via the VSR when the engine is running ensuring it is always fully charged. When the switch is in battery 2 position this becomes the sensing battery and battery 1 is charged via the VSR. The fact that there is always a fully charged battery in reserve is a huge safety factor.

http://www.bepmarine.com/Single-Engine%2C-Two-Battery-Banks-180-1460.html

[clowninmd]

tons of great info guys. thanks!

[moomba_armada]

Sorry jm, I am from Spain..but there is a link from the Bepmarine site

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/196978340.htm

It works really well

[clowninmd]

let me make sure I've got this right: the stinger isolator hooks up to your acc so when the key is off, the batteries are isolated and you are only using 1 battery (stereo, etc). Key is turned on and you now have the juice from both batteries for starting?

[tlatoani]

let me make sure I've got this right: the stinger isolator hooks up to your acc so when the key is off, the batteries are isolated and you are only using 1 battery (stereo, etc). Key is turned on and you now have the juice from both batteries for starting?

Yeah, but it's a relay (not an isolator). Same function but they work differently.

[clowninmd]

to wire in the stinger, can i leave my main battery hooked up with the factory wires, run a 2nd cable from the battery pos to the relay, then to the new battery? does the new battery need its own ground or can i hook the two batteries neg together like in a series set up?

[Razzman]

to wire in the stinger, can i leave my main battery hooked up with the factory wires, run a 2nd cable from the battery pos to the relay, then to the new battery? does the new battery need its own ground or can i hook the two batteries neg together like in a series set up?

Read my post above, i wired in the stinger on the last boat.

[clowninmd]

that is the stinger 80 correct?

[SanMarzano]

i just had the stinger 200 put in and its wired as mentioned. You can actually hera it click when turned on

[clowninmd]

how do you determine if the 80 is too small and the 200 is neccessary? I'm running 2 amps in my system with about 800watts rms.

[Razzman]

I ran the 80 in my last boat with two amps and 1200 watts peak, no problems for me.

[jmvotto]

That is why i ran an isolator on my last install, it's not neccessary to back trace. Here's how it works;
The pos/neg cables stay on the starting batt as setup from the factory

bridge the negatives between batts
positive from secondary batt to iso
additional positive from starting batt to iso
additional positive & negatives from secondary batt to distribution blocks for stereo

Here's a pic from my last boat showing the iso & dist blocks and another showing the amps on the other side of the center support. I did the design and install and never had any issues at all. BUT ... if you have one of those super killer 3000 watt stereos and play it at max power you'll drain the secondary batt real quick. If you have system like that or plan on one then look at this; http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/579882.html?1210947781 We just like the music when parked but it's never played loud enough to drain it. :cool:

Razzman,

sorry this is old but i was researching my isolator ???

your setup does not involve a wire going back to the ignition. What then breaks the circuit for the isolation? I would prefer to keep the wiring in the battery compartment.

Thanks,

JV

[Razzman]

It's there i just forgot to add it on the list i guess .. may bad :rolleyes:

I've installed four of the Stingers over the last couple years on friends boats and so far they work perfectly and none have failed, they've all been the 80's. They are super easy to do they only thing i would recommend is place as close to the batts as possible to keep your wire runs as short as possible to avoid voltage drop.

Oh yeah, i would put a .5 - 1 amp fuse inline to the ignition switch to ward off back surge.

[jmvotto]

thanks,
you Da man!!! you Da Razzman:p

[Razzman]

LOL! GITUR DONE! :p