Replacing Shaft Packing?

[spyder]

Hey guys, my shaft started to leak something fierce, filling up and engaging the auto bilge every 8 minutes... we tried tightening the packing nut and lock nut, and we got it to stop dripping.

Running to boat over to the dock (5 minutes most) and it was dripping worse then before and didn't slow down even after stopping the boat.

I am looking at replacing the packing in the nut, but I am not to tech savvy and I have no real access to these boards up at the lake.

Should i get this handled professionally, or is it really ridiculously simple and a waste of my money to get a marina to do it?

Does anyone have photos of the procedure and a view from the rear of the nut?

I know this has been covered before, but I really need it laid out in some detail if I am going to attempt it up at the lake.

[spyder]

Here is a shot of the shaft, you can see how much it has loosened off the lock nut.

[04OUTBACK]

Spyder..
I took on that project yesterday... Pretty simple.. but challenging.. HA.. Getting in to the area is hardest part...

Remove the Front/bigger nut.. You'll need some type of Pick to reach back inside the nut to get the old packing out.. I had a pigtail barbecue turner. it kinda worked.. This is easier on a Direct Drive as you can see what you are doing!

Once you get the old pieces out, you cut your pieces in lengths just shy of the diameter of the shaft... then roll them back in.. I upgraded to the Gore Tex packing.. it is more difficult to push in.. I still need to go back in and mess with mine more before going out.

www.SkiDim.com or www.elberts.com are great places for parts. Both are very accessible on the phone and can provide tech service.

Moomba's use 1/4" packing rope. I'd probably go with the waxed instead of gore tex.

Once you pack 2-3 pieces back in, you'll tighten the big nut down and then back tighten the lock nut to it. You'll probably have to tighten a time or two after running to get it adjusted where it does not drip right...

PM or email if you have further questions.
BW

[spyder]

I just order the gore-tex one, but I don't think it will make it to Canada before this upcoming long weekend, so I may be forced to bring it in to a shop :/

I would of liked to try this project on :/

[04OUTBACK]

Not sure who you ordered from, but Call SkiDim tomorrow and see if they can ship you some waxed out same day with global priority. I placed my order online with them and they called 1 hr later to say if I was not in a hurry that US Mail would be much cheaper than UPS so they saved me $5! Great folks.

[spyder]

I ordered from Skidim, I'll see what I can do tomorrow.

[Waynes345]

Replacing the shaft packing is a relatively easy task you should be able to do yourself. I found step by step instructions on this board that worked great. Good luck.

[JesseC]

Here are the instructions that were sent to me by Brian Raymond. This is one of the few thing I have not had to do yet.

Replacing and Adjusting the Shaft Packing.
- Replace the shaft packing. Be sure to install two or three pieces.
- Loosen the jam nut on the shaft-packing gland.
- Back the gland nut off the packing gland assembly.
- Dig out all the old packing material.
- For a one inch shaft, cut two to three pieces of 1/4"dia. packing material strips so they are 4 1/8". Place one of the packing strips into the packing nut. The end should butt together. Place another piece in the packing nut, this time orienting the seam 180 degrees from the seam of the first piece.
- Slide the packing nut up the shaft.
- Slide the shaft through the Packing gland assembly and into the strut.
- Screw the packing nut onto the packing gland assembly. Tighten it up as much as possible by hand. Then using a wrench, turn the nut a 1/2 a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. Then turn the nut a 1/2 a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. Then turn the nut a ½ a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. This will pack the packing fairly tight.
- Back the packing nut off the assembly again. Then thread it back on. Tighten it only as tight as you can get it using your hands. This should be almost the perfect tightness for the packing gland so that it does not leak, yet not too tight so that the packing burns up.
- Tighten the Lock Nut up to the Packing Gland Nut.

If you want to add the third piece of packing, do so when you back the nut off after you packed the packing. Then tighten the nut only as tight as you can get it using your hands. This should be almost the perfect tightness for the packing gland so that it does not leak, yet not too tight so that the packing burns up.

3/16” PACKING FOR V DRIVE
¼” PACKING FOR DIRECT DRIVE

Ideally, you want 1 drop of water every 30-45 seconds when the boat is in gear at idle. (Be sure the boat is in the water)

[04OUTBACK]

Jesse,
Thanks for the info.. That explains why the 1/4" was such a tough fit for me! I'll order some 3/16" now. OOPS.

[spyder]

3/16” PACKING FOR V DRIVE
¼” PACKING FOR DIRECT DRIVE


This is the first reference I have heard of this, are you sure? I thought 3/16's were just for correct crafts.

[JesseC]

These are the instructions that were sent to my by Brian Raymond, they are on the bottom of the instructions for the Shaft Alignment process. I just copy pasted the instructions I received from Skiers Choice. Hopefully someone from the factory will chime in and verify them.

[spyder]

well the shop near my place just said they wont be able to get to my boat until next week, so i may just pull it home and attempt this myself.

the instructions look pretty good.

[spyder]

just so I know, for when I attempt this on the weekend... you just get it pretty close, then adjust it out on the water to the perfect spec?

[spyder]

Well the stuff from skidim won't be here for the weekend, but the local store had some other stuff, I was wondering does this look like the right product?

Appears to be from "Western Pacific Trading, Inc." "Flax Shaft Packing 1/4""

high quality rovings

[04OUTBACK]

Spyder,
Looks correct, now the question goes back to JesseC's post quoting Brian Raymond.. Is it 1/4 or is it 3/16"? I too have 06LSV and attempted replacing last weekend with 1/4" GoreTex packing... way tight and nowhere near like when I did my Outback last year.. I have 3/16 on the way, but it will be Fri/Sat before I can get to it. I know what I pulled out of mine seemed smaller than new gore tex, but I assumed it was worn. You may want to see if that local store has some 3/16" too just in case..
You'll need something like an awl or short ice pic to pick out the old packing.. I had a PigTail barbecue turner that I used but it was not best option..

[JesseC]

I called and left Brian a message to chime in on this thread. I also did a search on the forum and came up with an older post he had made:



Alex, hope all is well. All direct drives use the 1/4" packing, all V-drives use the 3/16" packing. If you are not familiar with the install and tightening procedure, you can contact; [email protected] or call 865.983.9924ext.130. They have emailable (my word) and faxable instructions on this. Brian Raymond

[spyder]

Yep, I got the same response from Anthony Cooper.

Hi Derek.
All Moomba D-Drive boats have 1/4" packing. But all of our V-Drives
boats use 3/16" packing.


Also, I just called and left a voice mail for Anthony to drop me that document in a e-mail, if I get it i'll make sure to post it here.

[spyder]

On a V-Drive, can anyone tell me the size of the lock nut and packing nut so I can be sure to have all the tools with me?

also, what would be the best tool to cut the packing to ensure a straight edge?

[04OUTBACK]

Spyder,
I just use channel locks. you should only have to use it on the locking nut. You should be able to move the packing log nut by hand.

Did mine yesterday aft. not too bad. Have fun.
The 3/16 did seem more correct than the 1/4 by the way.

[spyder]

I replaced the packing with some new packing rope following all instructions. I put it in the water and it was dripping about a drop every 5 seconds out the front where the shaft hole is, and I brought it for a spin and a bunch of wax melted out the front, I drove it for about 10 minutes, brought it back in to take a look and it's still dripping about 1 drop every 5 seconds. I loosened off the lock nut, and tightened it down a fair bit more and it's still dripping about 1 drop every 5 seconds even when the boat is turned off..

Is this normal? I am just gonna leave this wax stuff in, until I get the gore-tex stuff delivered, or if it's decent enough, until the end of the season.

as for the replacement, i pulled all 4 pieces of the old shit out and I put 4 new pieces in (with only 3 I could hand tighten the packing nut all the way down to the bottom of the threads.

any ideas or suggestions?

[spyder]

well, taking a look at the boat this morning.. it was no longer leaking, but i didn't get a chance to bring the boat for a run today due to the hoooorible weather in Ontario this weekend.

So I am going to say it was pretty much a success, i may replace the wax packing with the gore-tex stuff I have on order at the end of the season, or if it acts up again during the season.

Tanks again for all the information guys!