View Full Version : Bilge Flood/Hose Broke

07-30-2003, 06:31 PM
I have a 2003 Outback with 310 Carb. I had the hose from my raw water pump to my engine pump crack this morning and flood the bilge/engine compartment. I notice the problem when the water started to come out from under the engine cover. Two questions:

1. Shouldn't my bilge pump have come on automatically? It did not. What should I do to check it?

2. Will this hurt my engine in any way? I did not overheat.

Thanks for the help. The hose took all of 5 minutes to replace.

Brian Raymond
07-30-2003, 09:57 PM
Sorry to hear about your situation, thank goodness no damage was done. If you are sure you did not overheat, you should be allright, just keep an eye on the temp. gauge and check the oil before each outing for the next few trips to verify water is not in it. Sounds like the hose got pushed into the alternator belt. There is a round knob on the backside of the bilge pump under the oil pan, you should be able to rotate the knob and hear the bilge pump kick on, if not, call your dealer. Hope this helps. Brian Raymond

07-31-2003, 11:39 AM
Thanks for the prompt reply Brian. At the risk of sounding ignorant, how can I tell if there's water in the oil? Thanks again.

07-31-2003, 11:43 AM
One other thing Brian. If the engine had overheated (which I'm fairly certain it did not), what would the procedure be?

By the way, it was the hose on the upper starboard front of the engine. It's only 15 hours old and the hose split longitudunally right at the bottom elbow. I'm sure it was just a faulty hose because there are no moving parts around it. Fortunately, it happened as I was driving in to the boat ramp.

Brian Raymond
07-31-2003, 10:44 PM
Question 1; the oil will have a whiteish color(like mayonaise). The "J" hose is a rarely blown hose.(can the intended jokes have more red carpet?). I would very much appreciate if you still have that hose, to send it to me, 5820 U.S. 411S., Maryville, Tn. 37801, Thanks

08-01-2003, 04:07 PM
Brian, my dealer says he needs the hose because it's under warranty. I have given him your address and asked that he send it to you.

08-04-2003, 02:42 AM
What is the part # on this hose? Mine broke and no one around here has one. (FYI the impellar rate exceeds the bilge rate by alot!!!) Had to use a "universal" hose, whcih works, but I'd rather have the stock "J" hose.

08-05-2003, 04:47 PM
The Indmar part number for the formed water pump hose is 845010.

08-27-2010, 02:21 PM
Thought I'd comment on this older post. Last weekend, I blew two hoses on the output side of the impeller. I had been running for about an hour pulling tubers, etc. - shut down for lunch, and then ran another 15 mins toward the marina. First thing I noticed the boat was porpoising at cruise (wouldn't stay in plane); then power seemed lacking; next thing I noticed was the bilge pump running; & then the steam. I stopped. Raised the engine cover and noticed water up to the bottom of the oil pan. Temp got to about 200 degrees. Impeller was working because it was shooting water in while running.

There are two hoses downline from the impeller ('03 PMC Excalibur 330 - Chev 5.7). The first is a short 90 deg, followed by a cold shower "T", then a long hose that goes to the block. The short 90, right off the impeller, had split lengthways on it's elbow and was delivering water into the compartment. I went to Napa the next day (was in Central Oregon - no boat shops) & got a 1.25" hose that worked and replaced it. Ran fine for an hour. Then, the next hose downline from the shower "T" blew the same way!! What are the chances of those hoses blowing 2 days in a row?

Granted, it's likely that the hoses were 7 years old and were originally the same hose until spliced for the shower. So the failure could have happened consequently. Temps have been 175-180 normally and it was about that when it broke. So, I am wondering, could there be a blockage downstream of the hoses that broke (thermostat,block,etc.) that raised the pressure high enough to push it over the edge? But it seems an impeller would fail or cavitate before bursting a hose. There was no rubbing on the hose where the splits happened.

Any input from people with similar experience?