View Full Version : Help with tower speaker install
08-06-2007, 01:20 PM
I just got my tower speakers today and I have a few questions. I have the older style Rad a cage (2002) with two tubes on top. Which tube is a preferred location for install, front or back? Also, do you have only one hole on the top of the tower and string the wiring to each speaker or drill two holes, one near each speaker? What is the preferred connection of choice at the point where the wiring meets gelcoat? Location suggestions? Same goes for where the tower hinges. Any help, photos, etc. is greatly appreciated.
The speakers are Infinity 6100m with amp and mic.
08-06-2007, 01:57 PM
1) I mounted mine on the front of the boat tube, gets them out the way of ski rope. I did have them mounted on the back at one time. The ski rope kept catching them.
2) A hole for each speaker
3) I drilled a small hole, then used a stainless clamshell and silicone to get through the gelcoat (simple, and still looks neat) passenger side at the base of the tower where the foot pad is.
As a note, there are some very talented and creative ppl on this board. You can see that from some of the pics posted. I am in awe and truely envy those that have the resources, whether it be tools or just inate ability, to pull stuff out their arse like they do.
08-06-2007, 02:34 PM
You need to have the wires come out of the tube that is near the pivot point where the tower lies down or a disconnect will be needed. In my case, my tower pivots forward so I used the front tube. I would have liked to use the passenger side since I have no cleats and I tie off from the tower with the rope going underneath the wires.
08-06-2007, 03:31 PM
I also used the tube closest to the bow. Here is the link to my install. I went for the wireless look.
08-06-2007, 03:57 PM
Jesse, I like that pic of how you went from amp to speakers via tower hinge. I thought I would have to drill gelcoat but instead am going to use your method. It looks clean and tidy. Also Buttafewcoe makes sense to have the speakers on the front tube because of the rope.
I need to decide where to mount the mic as well. It has level controls, auto, on and off switch so it has to be accessible. It has a monstrous connect panel that I think Ill mount without drilling anywhere, perhaps tucked under the dash or something.
08-06-2007, 04:21 PM
I ended up adding a "plug" between the tower and the mounting plate that I custom built at a loca electronics store. I had to disconnect the tower from the boat for winter storage and I had run the wires directly into the boat. As long as you do not need to completely remove the tower you can do this. I had to add the plug for completely removing the tower. I can get pic of it this weekend if you need them.
08-06-2007, 06:48 PM
Jesse, when you drilled your hole in the mounting plate for the tower, did you have any issues when you got down to the gel coat / fiberglass?
08-06-2007, 10:23 PM
No, I did not have any issues, but if I had drilled the hole with my eyes open, it may have been a different story. I just made sure the bolts on the tower were snug and then I just closed my eyes, squeezed the trigger and when my eyes opened there was a hole in the side of my boat!!! If you want to be extra cautios, pull the plate, tape the area and bolt the plat back then drill.
08-07-2007, 11:06 AM
I decided to use a quick disconnect plug on my setup. Picked up a Speakeron cable from my local shop. It has 8 wires inside, enough for a few sets of speakers, or some speakers and lights.
I drilled into the gel coat, right in front of the rear tower hinge. This is a Roswell tower, so it's probably a bit different than what you have.
The Speakeron cable was thick enough that I could basically "push" it up the tower, and then used some small, long needle-nose pliers to fish it out through the holes. Warm soapy water help this process.
My tower also has hinges near the top (don't know why), so I had to snake the wire around the hinge. Here are a few pics:
Tape the gel coat and mark where to drill
Used a tapered dremmel bit to smooth the edges to help prevent the gel coat from cracking:
Here is the receiving end of the plug:
The actual locking plug:
Snaked around the upper joint:
Here is the back of the 8-pin cable:
08-07-2007, 02:50 PM
thanks for the sweet pics!
I have a new problem. I hooked up the tower amp and speakers just laying in the bottom of the boat before I drilled any holes, just to make sure it works. Everything works great and sounds great until I turn on the boats blower. A loud shrill from the blower is coming out of the tower speakers. It doesnt come out of the boat speakers. It may have been coming out of my woofers but perhaps I didnt notice it since it was a high pitch on a subwoofer. Head unit and both sub amp and tower speaker amps both ground on the battery. I tried moving the rca connection wires away from any power source and still nothing. I added a noise filter on the input of the tower speaker amp and it didnt do any good. Anybody else experience this? Suggestions?
Additional Info: I disconnected the rca cables from both amps and I dont get the noise so it has to be coming from the head unit. Is there such a thing as having TOO thick of wire? I have 8 ga. wire for power and ground going to the head unit. Any help is greatly appreciated.
08-07-2007, 07:01 PM
Where is your 'remote on' for the amps? Wired to a switch or head unit.
The way mine is wired, the amps do not work unless the head unit is on. Of course that means amps on constant as we listen to music constant. I use the remote on from the head unit with the amp power coming from the batt. Amps always have power, but aren't on if head isn't. No problem with noise.
Hope this helps
08-07-2007, 07:32 PM
I do the same, both amps use remote power to switch on when the head goes on. The thing I dont get is the blower motor is in the back of the boat and the volume of noise from it through the speakers, you would think its right next to it. It seems like the system is ultra sensitive to interference and I dont know why.
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