Not starting

[SkiBoy]

99 Outback LS

Started in the morning, ran it around the lake and then in the afternoon, would turn over but not fire. I have only started it twice on land and twice in the lake.
Has the Holley Marine Avenger carb. Dropped a little gas in the primaries and no fire. I will pull a plug and see if it has spark.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

[Holdmybeer]

Bad coolant temp sensor or bad oil pressure sensor will cause this. Even unplugged sensors will cause this. They are in series with the ignition circuit so the engine saves itself from overheating or no oil.

It could also be the common issues: rotor, cap, coil, fouled plugs, etc.

Don't under estimate a fuse. It could be this simple also.

[SkiBoy]

Pulled all plugs, none fouled. Took the last out and saw no spark when I turned it over. Cap was new a few years back, coil is original. Being an older boat, the temp gauge is mounted on the manifold in front of the carb. I don't know where the oil sensor is. All fuses I know about are under the dash. Are there any on the engine?
Thanks

[SkiBoy]

Checked the coil. No spark. My boat has no fuse box. Maybe inline fuses? Odd that it ran fine and two hours later no spark.
There is a red reset button under the coil where battery line runs and wires run out to the fuel pump engine temp gauge etc. I took that off and no fuses and the reset was stiff did not need resetting. I reset it once maybe 15 years ago. pulled the coil, will get a new one.

[Holdmybeer]

Coils are weird and heat affected. Could make sense that it failed after it got warm or shorted randomly.

Hopefully this is all it is and you are in business.

[SkiBoy]

I hope so as well. Took the cap off rotor turns like it should. No scarring or burn marks looked clean. Ordered new plugs and an Accel replacement coil.

[SkiBoy]

New coil did not spark. May be the module on the distributor. Anyone have a guide for replacement marine grade distributors? No idea what kind mine is. Going to remove it and take it to the auto parts store and see what they think.
Also, does anyone know which electronic distributor would fit.
Thanks

[SkiBoy]

I saw a post about a 2000 Outback that said there are fuses above the transmission. I cannot find fuses anywhere on my '99.

[Holdmybeer]

Are your gauges for temp and oil pressure working? You will not have spark if coolant and/or oil sensor has failed. It cuts off the ignition.

Under the steering wheel might be a fuse box or relay box.

What engine do you have 345 assault?
Stupid question, have you checked the run kill switch on the throttle. Did it get bumped?

[SkiBoy]

5.7 350 engine 310 HP. Gauges have been off and on for years. No run - kill switch on the '99. No coolant, water cooled engine. It was not hot when I brought it in. Oil sensor on rear of engine, temp gauge on front of manifold. Computer keeps engine hours, tach works, others are off and on. Under the wheel is the computer, no fuse box or relay box. The dash has breaker buttons, none were tripped.
Thanks.

[Holdmybeer]

5.7 350 is the same motor in 89-94 GM trucks.

Distributor and parts should be the same.

From the coil wires, follow the harness around the back of the engine and see if you have a broken wire, fusible link, burn mark, etc.

[SkiBoy]

I took everything apart again. Reassembled the distributor checked the reset box and wires going to and from the new coil, looked under the dash, checked all wires there and the main harness going to the computer. Tightened the wires for the oil and water temp sensor....................splashed a little gas in the carb................
and it fired right up. Idled for 5 minutes, shut it down and she started right up again.

I have no idea what happened. I'm happy with a new coil and I may get an electronic distributor, anyway. It runs like it's injected with the Marine Avenger carb. I rarely have to even prime it. One turn of the key and she sparks to life.
I must say I'm a bit concerned it may happen again. Hopefully it was the coil and I didn't have it set up quite right first time around. I have yet to find an inline fuse from the engine. There are a few under the dash going to accessories but that is all I see.

Thanks for all your help.
I'll keep you posted!

[HFarr]

Sometimes the ole "wire jiggle" procedure fixes things!

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[SkiBoy]

Did not start today. No spark. Did everything I did yesterday, no luck. Battery connection is strong, new battery last year. I guess next step is testing to see where the power ends. I am out of ideas at this point.

[HFarr]

It sounds like you have a loose connection, or some corrosion on a connector, or a wire broken down inside the insulation somewhere. Didn't you mention that some of your gauges go in and out sometimes?

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[SkiBoy]

Yes, most of my gauges stopped working years ago. Tach works most of the time but can be halfway around the dial when it fluctuates up and down. As I said computer works, bilge, running lights also. I will get a buddy to come over and help me test individual wires. We did a small test today and there was power to the new coil but no spark. took a plug out grounded it and connected it to the coil directly. No spark. Can't get to it until Monday. Away this weekend. Boat is in the hoist waiting.

Thanks

[Holdmybeer]

You have an ignition wire broken or loose and/or a bad ground.

A test light might need to be used over a meter.

[HFarr]

Ignition switch itself could be corroded inside on the contacts, too.

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[SkiBoy]

Thanks will check that When I get back to the lake.

[zabooda]

Jumper the fuel pump and you should hear it running.

[SkiBoy]

Got my new plugs, gapped them and installed. Put a slow charge on the battery, took the ignition switch out and went into town. No luck. The only marine model had different connectors. Went online ordered a Sierra marine 3 position that is an exact match for mine with red, purple and yellow/red wires. There is rust on the old switch, so there must be some inside as well. Put some dielectric grease on the connectors tapped it several times, reinstalled it and the boat fired up. New ignition will make me much happier.

Will report back. Thanks

[HFarr]

Awesome! Maybe that got your mystery problem solved!!

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[SkiBoy]

Installed the new ignition, and running great. As a bonus I now have a spare key.

Thanks to all who chimed in.

[HFarr]

Glad you got it back up!

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[SkiBoy]

No spark again this morning ran great started like it is injected for two weeks. Today no spark. It sat for two days, so I primed the carb with a couple of drops to start, and nothing. There is a reset button where the main power from battery goes. Seems fine. I am never going to trust it to start again at this point.....

[HFarr]

Man, that has to be frustrating! Check your switch connection plugs again since you had them apart when you changed the ignition switch out. Maybe something is not seated all the way.

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[SkiBoy]

Checked all connections to the new switch. Will try to trace the battery wire tomorrow. Everything looks good and feels tight. If I ran a new wire, can I go directly to the battery, or is that not advisable?

[Holdmybeer]

Did you determine the no spark to be coil to distributor, or distributor to plugs?

Just curious where the problem is starting.

[SkiBoy]

I am just assuming it's the same problem as last time. No spark getting to the plugs. Will try and figure it out this weekend.

[Holdmybeer]

I am just assuming it's the same problem as last time. No spark getting to the plugs. Will try and figure it out this weekend.

Coil is new
Plugs are new or at least good
Wires are good
Connections all tight
Fuses/breakers good nothing tripped

Battery ran for 2 weeks assumed good

Can you check the connection from distributor to the coil? Seems like the distributor is not signaling the coil to fire. The pickup in the distributor could be flaking out on you. Or a bad ground plane on the engine. A loose ground bolt/screw, or lose terminal crimp can cause this also.

Check the connector at the distributor has some flake wires or bad connection.

Also, neutral safety switch on the throttle. It will keep 12V from getting to the coil. Boats thinks it isn't in neutral and won't start. If you use the bypass button and move your throttle forward slightly you can attempt to start the boat. If it starts then the neutral switch is bad.

[SkiBoy]

I checked the ground from the battery to the block. It was rusted heavily. I backed it out cleaned the threads put some dielectric grease on, and it fired right up. I think I have a gremlin somewhere, but at least for now it's running. Will check back once I find the real culprit.

Thanks for the info!