Air in Ballast Bags - 22 Mojo

[uniwarking]

I know I've read a few threads making comments around air in ballast bags and needing to "burp" them. I'm finding that I often have a large amount of air left in the bags sometimes but not every time on our new Mojo when they're "full." Adjusting fill timers doesn't seem to help, we're not seeing water vent out the side of the boat and I'm having to open the "Air Release" valve on the bags themselves. What is causing this, why doesn't the factory equipment vent properly? Why did SC go away from a simple through hull vent attached to the top the bags... would changing to this setup negate any of the smart tech features? Thanks!

[TXSurf4]

The bags from the factory have those little air relief valves (the ones with 5-6 holes in the top) that are supposed to let the air out but they don't seem to be able to keep up with the pumps. I remember hearing people say that they were more for slowly bleeding any air out that got trapped throughout the day. When I had my factory setup I would flip the switches to fill my bags and immediately open my "Air Release" valves. I would leave them open until water squirted out and then close them. I have since upgraded my rear bags and also installed top vents on them as well. That was a game changer as I no longer have to manually vent my bags. I also installed check valves right before the thru hull fitting to help the bags drain better and not pull air back into them. Making the change won't negate any of your smart features.

In order to get the bags full and venting out the side you usually have to cycle your pumps once or twice after the bags are full and the pumps shut off. You have to do this because you have a sensor on your overflow or vent line that when it sees water will turn the little dot next to you fill % on your screen from yellow to red and it will also shut the pump off. So to get it to flow out the vent you have to cycle it off then on again and you may have to do it a few times as this sensor will want to shut the pumps off again.

[HFarr]

Everything TXsurf just said! A cheaper quick fix is to install an air bleeder valve in the top of the bag. I did this to my stock Makai bags. It worked fairly well. You can find them on Amazon or lots of other places. They are primarily used for irrigation lines. IF I recall correctly, you need 3/4" for the stock bags.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/99c966f7c4a980460427ff1d85b3dde5.jpg

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[Schlanseay]

I hear ya on the air in the bags. I just installed the Wakemakers top vent kit on my upgraded bags $100 for both sides. I’m not sure though if the stock bags have the top vent to tie into on yours, I think so though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/483f16dc7e46e6885229624ff4ee2387.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/2e47635acb02a79348f130f7fa45dba2.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/0088f5e1f8f011deef73c065bf9aab79.jpg


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[TXSurf4]

I hear ya on the air in the bags. I just installed the Wakemakers top vent kit on my upgraded bags $100 for both sides. I’m not sure though if the stock bags have the top vent to tie into on yours, I think so though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/483f16dc7e46e6885229624ff4ee2387.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/2e47635acb02a79348f130f7fa45dba2.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/0088f5e1f8f011deef73c065bf9aab79.jpg


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The factory bags do have the ports to put a top vent on. I wasn’t aware they would kits for this I just bought all the parts and did it my self. I ended up using crimp style hose clamps instead of worm gear to protect the bag.


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[MLA]

Im a firm believer that a ballast sac or tank needs passive venting. An impeller pump has enough force to pop a bag. Chit, I even know if an MB that a restricted sac vent caused the sac to pop the deck cap from the hull at the rubrail seam. Im also a fan of having that over the side visual and audible signal that the sac is full, when you see and hear the vent purging.

[HFarr]

I hear ya on the air in the bags. I just installed the Wakemakers top vent kit on my upgraded bags $100 for both sides. I’m not sure though if the stock bags have the top vent to tie into on yours, I think so though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/483f16dc7e46e6885229624ff4ee2387.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/2e47635acb02a79348f130f7fa45dba2.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/0088f5e1f8f011deef73c065bf9aab79.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat boat is that on? And yea to the stock bag vent question. They have caps you can unscrew and add a vent.

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[Tommy2slow]

I know I've read a few threads making comments around air in ballast bags and needing to "burp" them. I'm finding that I often have a large amount of air left in the bags sometimes but not every time on our new Mojo when they're "full." Adjusting fill timers doesn't seem to help, we're not seeing water vent out the side of the boat and I'm having to open the "Air Release" valve on the bags themselves. What is causing this, why doesn't the factory equipment vent properly? Why did SC go away from a simple through hull vent attached to the top the bags... would changing to this setup negate any of the smart tech features? Thanks!
I did the Wakemakers vent upgrade mentioned here on my boat and it works great. It is a must do upgrade. Until you do this you will have to burp your bags every time you fill. Find the port on the top of your bags labeled “air release “ crack both of them open 1 or 2 turns after you start filling. Leave them open until you don’t hear any air rushing from them and the air has been replaced with a steady stream of water. Close the valve and continue filling and you should have full bags with almost no air.

[Schlanseay]

What boat is that on? And yea to the stock bag vent question. They have caps you can unscrew and add a vent.

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It’s on a Kaiyen


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[uniwarking]

Yeah, this vent kit sounds like the solution... I have to ask though... why did SC go away from this basic setup that works great and adopt all these vent fittings that don't work... and likely have just as much cost wrapped up into them?! Is anyone not having air fill their bags?

[Josh828]

I'm having my starboard side filling with id say 40% air every time, the port side has hardly no air in it at all.
Mentioned it being a problem when boat was in for service and basically got told to just open the valve as it filled...
So now every time I fill its wait for them to say full, then open the hatch and valve and put your feet on it to push air for 30 seconds then wait another 5 mins to fill it to actually full.
I have no idea if the front bag is getting air or not just hoping it isn't..

Also the water sensors are crap imo, I have to manually cycle the pumps over and over again until it finally puts water out the side on each bag. Water sensors always throw with plenty of room for more water I would much rather them just fill till the spray out the side. same with draining, have to sit in dead silence and try to listen to the change of sound when they are pumping water or not. If they simply sprayed out the side as well like older boats you can simply see when you are done

[TXSurf4]

Yeah, this vent kit sounds like the solution... I have to ask though... why did SC go away from this basic setup that works great and adopt all these vent fittings that don't work... and likely have just as much cost wrapped up into them?! Is anyone not having air fill their bags?

Ya you can even build your own kit for a little cheaper on the wakemakers site. As far as why SC went to these fittings, if I had to guess it is to be able to have "subfloor" ballast. If they had vent hoses on the top of all of their bags then you would have trouble with clearances when using the rear tubs and maybe even problems with the hose getting stuck or pinched as the bag fills.

[HFarr]

I'm having my starboard side filling with id say 40% air every time, the port side has hardly no air in it at all.
Mentioned it being a problem when boat was in for service and basically got told to just open the valve as it filled...
So now every time I fill its wait for them to say full, then open the hatch and valve and put your feet on it to push air for 30 seconds then wait another 5 mins to fill it to actually full.
I have no idea if the front bag is getting air or not just hoping it isn't..

Also the water sensors are crap imo, I have to manually cycle the pumps over and over again until it finally puts water out the side on each bag. Water sensors always throw with plenty of room for more water I would much rather them just fill till the spray out the side. same with draining, have to sit in dead silence and try to listen to the change of sound when they are pumping water or not. If they simply sprayed out the side as well like older boats you can simply see when you are doneYour comment about the front ballast bag having air in it has also been a concern that I have had. For that matter the subfloor midship bags as well. I am sure they have to be getting air. Why would they be any different from the rear? I periodically hit my fill switch for the front after running for a while until I see water come out the overflows. This is after I have filled it until water comes out from the first time. I figure those stock little vent caps just take a little while to work the air out.

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[TXSurf4]

Your comment about the front ballast bag having air in it has also been a concern that I have had. For that matter the subfloor midship bags as well. I am sure they have to be getting air. Why would they be any different from the rear? I periodically hit my fill switch for the front after running for a while until I see water come out the overflows. This is after I have filled it until water comes out from the first time. I figure those stock little vent caps just take a little while to work the air out.

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I have had the same concern as you two. I have been brainstorming a solution for venting the midships like I have done my rears but it will involve putting a hole in the removable floor. The bow I haven't even looked at yet lol Like HFarr I am always topping my bags off throughout the day and making sure they overflow out the side. Then I just turn Autowake back on and let it do it's thing.

[eder10986]

Front def gets air in our Supra.

I’ve always vented ballast bags, even in the good old days so it doesn’t bother me to do it today.

I did install air vents on our rears but they didn’t work so I resorted back to manual venting.

As Josh said, it’s normal for me to fill with vents open (front and rear) and then fill for a few more mins after I vent.

I even randomly hit the switches while riding because as the water shifts, air pockets move as well.

Definitely a PIA but I’m used to it [emoji2369]


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[Hayden]

Im a firm believer that a ballast sac or tank needs passive venting. An impeller pump has enough force to pop a bag. Chit, I even know if an MB that a restricted sac vent caused the sac to pop the deck cap from the hull at the rubrail seam. Im also a fan of having that over the side visual and audible signal that the sac is full, when you see and hear the vent purging.

I 100% agree with this. Not having venting stock is frustrating but with wake boats.....in for a penny, in for a pound.

[Tommy2slow]

I have had the same concern as you two. I have been brainstorming a solution for venting the midships like I have done my rears but it will involve putting a hole in the removable floor. The bow I haven't even looked at yet lol Like HFarr I am always topping my bags off throughout the day and making sure they overflow out the side. Then I just turn Autowake back on and let it do it's thing.

My 20 Mojo doesn’t have any significant air in the front when filled. If there is any air in the mid ship tank it vents into the bow sack. The bow sack’s stock vent is in the perfect location up high at the nose of the boat. When I see water coming out the port I know the air has vented and the bag is full. It works really well, I would be surprised to find out this setup isn’t used on other models. FWIW I don’t have Autowake, if that has any influence on what set up SC uses for the bow ballast.

[uniwarking]

Just to update the group, I went the same route as Schlanseay posted about above. This is what WakeMakers recommended as well. Stinks you've got to spend ~$100 extra to get something that should be there already or function as intended, but such is life.

30442

[benny32]

I have that setup on my bags and not only does it help keep air out on fill but it also drains better. I don't know the science behind why but my bags have never drained as completely as they do now after that upgrade.

[996scott]

Just to update the group, I went the same route as Schlanseay posted about above. This is what WakeMakers recommended as well. Stinks you've got to spend ~$100 extra to get something that should be there already or function as intended, but such is life.

30442

Is this a kit they sell? I couldn't find it on their website.

[TXSurf4]

Is this a kit they sell? I couldn't find it on their website.

I believe they might sell a kit but you can just buy all the parts individually on the wake makers site

[996scott]

so you guys are just removing a fitting off the top of the bag, putting a new fitting on the bag, connect the hose, the other end of the hose has a T on it that you splice into the vent hose going out the side of the boat. Where are you putting the check valve? Between the bag and the T?

[cozilla]

I posted a parts list and pictures on one of the Supra and Moomba FB pages for this mod. It comes out cheaper than the WakeMakers kit if you piece it together.

[benny32]

so you guys are just removing a fitting off the top of the bag, putting a new fitting on the bag, connect the hose, the other end of the hose has a T on it that you splice into the vent hose going out the side of the boat. Where are you putting the check valve? Between the bag and the T?

Put the check valve right before the overflow leaves the hull.

[TXSurf4]

so you guys are just removing a fitting off the top of the bag, putting a new fitting on the bag, connect the hose, the other end of the hose has a T on it that you splice into the vent hose going out the side of the boat. Where are you putting the check valve? Between the bag and the T?

Yes basically. I pulled all of the little air vents out of the bag put solid plugs in place and left one open. Put the quick connect in the open one. Build the hose and splice it into the vent line as you said. The Check Valve goes between the thru hull fitting and the T. At least that is how I did it. Here are a few pics https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220628/754abb8e883d77e8b67364e66c186ef4.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220628/57b2601b084e4c126f3b450f1389425e.jpg


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[Schlanseay]

I have that setup on my bags and not only does it help keep air out on fill but it also drains better. I don't know the science behind why but my bags have never drained as completely as they do now after that upgrade.

I believe it’s from the vacuum effect from the check valve but 100% agree! I surfed for the first time with the upgraded bags and huge difference!


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[uniwarking]

Is this a kit they sell? I couldn't find it on their website.

They don't have a kit for our bag/line size, you need to buy a list of parts. I put a picture in my post but I see it's really small.

WakeMAKERS Inline Check Valve Fitting 1" x 2
WakeMAKERS Hose Barb Tee Fitting 1" x 2
WakeMAKERS Premium Clear Ballast Hose - 1" x 14ft (I got extra)
WakeMAKERS DryLOK 1-1/8" Flow-Rite Bag Fitting x 2
WakeMAKERS Flow Rite 1" & 1-1/8" Barbed Elbow Quick Release Connector W746 x 2
Stainless Steel Hose Clamp 1" x 14 (I got extra)

[Ironman10]

I'm considering doing this upgrade, but had a couple of questions.

1) Has anyone been running this setup for a long time and experienced any issues with pump wear out? I don't think there would be an issue during fill as you are pushing air through the check valve. On drain through, the pumps will be pulling a vacuum (hence why the bags look like raisins) against the check value and perhaps could run into cavitation as the suction pressure drops. Has anyone looked at the specs for the pumps or run into issues? I'd hate to burn out the pumps prematurely.

2) I've updated my '21 to the '22 software which has the autofill feature. When filling to 100%, it will cycle the pumps occasionally to fill back what air may have been remaining during the original fill and I'll see it dumping out the overflow. With this, I would think the benefit of the vent would only be the time between original fill and when the autofill starts to work. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for the expertise from the group.

[MLA]

@Ironman10

Been building reversible ballast pump systems with a vent line and check valve for 14 years. No pump failures or burned impellers.

As to #2, you are likely correct. Most, if not all of the air, will be purged the initial fill cycle. However, I see no downside to the pump cycling for a short period again, after the initial fill cycle.

[uniwarking]

Hey all… for those that have installed this kit (or group of parts rather), I assume you had 1” ballast line? I just started installing mine and found that the hose on the port side of the boat is larger than 1”. Starboard side is 1”. Might explain why my vent line was leaking previously where it connected to the through hull vent. Crap…. Apparently SC put larger hose on one side for some unknown reason… either defect or deviation? Now I get to figure out how to deal things up for the weekend since I’ve already but into the hose.


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[uniwarking]

Just to follow up... there was one stretch of hose from the port side ballast sensor to the port side vent that was 1-1/8" instead of 1". Not sure how this happend but I used some of the hose from my order to fix this. Now waiting on more hose to finish the job...

[WildH]

So I got everything installed. Couple questions before I give it a go on filing.

1. Putting the check valve between the T and drain port is correct?

2. Do you need to replace the vented plugs on the bags with solid?

3. Any special instructions on first fill out subsequent fills?

4. Is it ok to leave the autofill feature on (the one that kicks in if sensor senses the bag isn't full)?

[TXSurf4]

So I got everything installed. Couple questions before I give it a go on filing.

1. Putting the check valve between the T and drain port is correct?

2. Do you need to replace the vented plugs on the bags with solid?

3. Any special instructions on first fill out subsequent fills?

4. Is it ok to leave the autofill feature on (the one that kicks in if sensor senses the bag isn't full)?



1. Yes this is correct you want it between the T and the thru hull vent port so that when you drain your bags it doesn't pull air in to them.

2. Yes I did for the same reason above to not pull air in to the bags when draining.

3. Just make sure that your top vent hose doesn't get pinched between the bag and the walls when filling.

4. Yes not sure why this would be an issue.

[Schlanseay]

So I got everything installed. Couple questions before I give it a go on filing.

1. Putting the check valve between the T and drain port is correct?

2. Do you need to replace the vented plugs on the bags with solid?

3. Any special instructions on first fill out subsequent fills?

4. Is it ok to leave the autofill feature on (the one that kicks in if sensor senses the bag isn't full)?

#4 yes when they auto switch off, toggle the switch off then on to override. Do this until they overflow through the vent


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[MLA]

If the vent T is for 2 soft sacs, then yes, place the CV after the T. If there is a hard tank and soft sac sharing a single vent outlet, the CV needs to go between the sac and T. Otherwise, the the sac cant vent and will tin-can.

[haknslash]

This is how I have mine on my Max. Works like a champ!

Port side

https://i.imgur.com/76pf4cn.jpg

Starboard side

https://i.imgur.com/fIc0h8x.jpg

[WildH]

#4 yes when they auto switch off, toggle the switch off then on to override. Do this until they overflow through the vent


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Do you find this to be a bit annoying? How does the auto off feature know when to stop? Mine stops pretty dang early and when bags are maybe 80% full. Is rather it just fill without the sensor.

[haknslash]

Do you find this to be a bit annoying? How does the auto off feature know when to stop? Mine stops pretty dang early and when bags are maybe 80% full. Is rather it just fill without the sensor.

The sensors are indeed annoying. I call them false trips when they shut off prematurely. One thing I did to help (not solve) the issue is to slide the sensors up as high in the tunnel as possible on the overflow tube. I’ve also contemplated just sliding them off the tubes entirely but leaving them hooked up so that I won’t get any error messages about sensors or whatever. In theory the sensor idea is nice and all but the reality is they stop too early or get tripped too easily when the bags aren’t even full yet. I wished the bags or system used actual float sensors so that this whole thing could be resolved and also give you truly accurate bag fill levels.

[WildH]

The sensors are indeed annoying. I call them false trips when they shut off prematurely. One thing I did to help (not solve) the issue is to slide the sensors up as high in the tunnel as possible on the overflow tube. I’ve also contemplated just sliding them off the tubes entirely but leaving them hooked up so that I won’t get any error messages about sensors or whatever. In theory the sensor idea is nice and all but the reality is they stop too early or get tripped too easily when the bags aren’t even full yet. I wished the bags or system used actual float sensors so that this whole thing could be resolved and also give you truly accurate bag fill levels.

You got a picture of where the sensors are? I didn't have much issue when I had the stock bags, but with the wakemakers, it's all the time.

[Schlanseay]

Do you find this to be a bit annoying? How does the auto off feature know when to stop? Mine stops pretty dang early and when bags are maybe 80% full. Is rather it just fill without the sensor.

A little annoying but I did this with the stock bags too to make sure they were full. Once you adjust the timers it should be good to go.


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[haknslash]

You got a picture of where the sensors are? I didn't have much issue when I had the stock bags, but with the wakemakers, it's all the time.

See around the 1:00 mark on my video and you’ll see it while I talk about it. Note I think the sensor style and position has changed over the years as I’ve seen different setups on some of the newer boats. The reason why it does it more on the WM bag is the bag is taller and unless the sensor location changes (moves higher) water will get to it before the bag is full.


https://youtu.be/qI4cjxHvNPI

[HFarr]

This is the rear port flow sensor on my 2021 Makai. It is at the top of the hard tube, but I probably need to move it o up or over to the flex tube. Mine shuts off before completely filling the bag too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220716/c2396a287ac935865769004302046efe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220716/c93b08c1fc33f493b9a91f8c40b04fd5.jpg

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[WildH]

Very helpful! Thanks.

[WildH]

This is the rear port flow sensor on my 2021 Makai. It is at the top of the hard tube, but I probably need to move it o up or over to the flex tube. Mine shuts off before completely filling the bag too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220716/c2396a287ac935865769004302046efe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220716/c93b08c1fc33f493b9a91f8c40b04fd5.jpg

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I wonder if they can be disconnected or 'hot wired'. With venting and overflow it's pretty easy to tell when it's full.

[HFarr]

Not sure honestly. I heard some others talking about getting error messages if you disconnect them though.

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[benny32]

How are people moving that when it's that full tube setup on the bag sensor? I have the same in my 21 Makai and was trying to figure out how to movie it.

[haknslash]

Looks to me the tube is just a “cover” over existing ballast tubing to keep it vertical. The top of the tube looks like a separate piece than and the sensor is slide in between it all. My guess is the top piece can be removed and sensor replaced or moved but hard to tell without being in front of my. Thankfully the only tube I have like that is the draft sensor used for amplitude readings.

[HFarr]

That longer hard plastic tube has a clamp going to the flex tube at both ends. I had someone tell me to raise their sensor, they replaced the short piece with a longer piece of flex tube at the bottom. Then just remounted the whole assembly up higher.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220718/5892d9e89d7c5f4b1fb8801a2fab4de3.jpg

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[WildH]

That longer hard plastic tube has a clamp going to the flex tube at both ends. I had someone tell me to raise their sensor, they replaced the short piece with a longer piece of flex tube at the bottom. Then just remounted the whole assembly up higher.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220718/5892d9e89d7c5f4b1fb8801a2fab4de3.jpg

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If that's the case you could just get the diameter of the hard tube and buy a piece of PVC and cut the hard tube and splice in a piece. Either way it could be done pretty easily.

Thanks for the pick.

[TXSurf4]

This is how I did mine…….https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220719/b6b7bea3fa7f0a93ac5b520d13b64d8d.jpg

Took a 90 deg fitting, some tubing and a few clamps


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[HFarr]

That looks simple and straight forward enough.

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[Schlanseay]

This is how I did mine…….https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220719/b6b7bea3fa7f0a93ac5b520d13b64d8d.jpg

Took a 90 deg fitting, some tubing and a few clamps


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Does this allow Autowake to function properly too or just allow the bags to fully fill?


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[haknslash]

The overfill water sensors don’t have anything to do with Autowake. The only one I’m aware of that does is the amplitude tube.

[Schlanseay]

The overfill water sensors don’t have anything to do with Autowake. The only one I’m aware of that does is the amplitude tube.

That might be the one I’m thinking of.


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[HFarr]

That might be the one I’m thinking of.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat one is strapped to the wall directly behind the rear seat on mine. Does it need to be raised when installing the WM kit?

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[haknslash]

That one is strapped to the wall directly behind the rear seat on mine. Does it need to be raised when installing the WM kit?

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Mine is in same spot. Mine is also never showed amplitude to be accurate. I’ve never seen mine go all the way to the top even with 100 amplitude set and 5600 lbs or so of ballast lol. I read somewhere on here or maybe the FB group that someone had theirs calibrated but not sure how they did that. I never used AW anyways so it’s of little concern to me mine isn’t accurate or display I’m actually loading the boat down.

[HFarr]

Mine is in same spot. Mine is also never showed amplitude to be accurate. I’ve never seen mine go all the way to the top even with 100 amplitude set and 5600 lbs or so of ballast lol. I read somewhere on here or maybe the FB group that someone had theirs calibrated but not sure how they did that. I never used AW anyways so it’s of little concern to me mine isn’t accurate or display I’m actually loading the boat down.I rarely use AutoWake either, but I did calibrate my amplitude not long after I got the boat. It was easy. There is a YouTube video of someone doing it out there I believe. You do it with the ballast empty, and whatever you consider an average tank of gas. I stood in the center of the boat with it floating freely in calm water. It's just a matter of finding the selection in the vessel menu to re-calibrate the amplitude. Doesn't take long.

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[TXSurf4]

That one is strapped to the wall directly behind the rear seat on mine. Does it need to be raised when installing the WM kit?

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It don't believe it needs to be raised for the wake makers kit as the point of the kit is to increase your displacement which should increase your "amplitude". Now that being said my amplitude bar is terrible. It has never really worked well as it seems like there is air trapped in it sometimes. I know I have read that it actually needs to "warm up" before it works well so maybe I need to pay attention to it later in my runs but there are times where I have a crew of 8-10 and are at full ballast (4,700 in water and 1k in lead) and the actual side of the bar is just pegged at the bottom. I don't worry about it to much any more as I have disabled the part of the autowake logic that uses it. You can read about that here in ragboy's post #89

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?36523-2021-Mojo-Update/page9&highlight=ragboy

https://wake9.com/2021/07/01/2021-moomba-mojo-settings/



Mine is in same spot. Mine is also never showed amplitude to be accurate. I’ve never seen mine go all the way to the top even with 100 amplitude set and 5600 lbs or so of ballast lol. I read somewhere on here or maybe the FB group that someone had theirs calibrated but not sure how they did that. I never used AW anyways so it’s of little concern to me mine isn’t accurate or display I’m actually loading the boat down.

Mine varies as well, sometimes it shows nothing and other times is shows 100% which is why I feel like there might be air stuck in it a times.


I rarely use AutoWake either, but I did calibrate my amplitude not long after I got the boat. It was easy. There is a YouTube video of someone doing it out there I believe. You do it with the ballast empty, and whatever you consider an average tank of gas. I stood in the center of the boat with it floating freely in calm water. It's just a matter of finding the selection in the vessel menu to re-calibrate the amplitude. Doesn't take long.

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Did you do the amplitude like that or the inclinometer? I have done my inclinometer like that and I know there is way to calibrate the draft sensor I just don't remember where I read it. If you come across that video can you share it?

I know people have been setting up boats for years with out all of the fancy tech we have now but when I hear that people don't use Autowake I always wonder why. I will admit it took me a little bit to sort it out and get it dialed, but after watching and reading a bunch of Ragboy's stuff on Youtube/Wake9 Autowake works amazing for me and my wave is so consistent. I love it.

[Hayden]

I know people have been setting up boats for years with out all of the fancy tech we have now but when I hear that people don't use Autowake I always wonder why. I will admit it took me a little bit to sort it out and get it dialed, but after watching and reading a bunch of Ragboy's stuff on Youtube/Wake9 Autowake works amazing for me and my wave is so consistent. I love it.

I like that AW identifies where you need to move weight/people to achieve your pitch/roll values but I dislike that it will empty ballast to achieve that. I want the boat at 100% of it's possible displacement always and then I will manually move people or leadbags based on it's recommendations.

[TXSurf4]

I like that AW identifies where you need to move weight/people to achieve your pitch/roll values but I dislike that it will empty ballast to achieve that. I want the boat at 100% of it's possible displacement always and then I will manually move people or leadbags based on it's recommendations.

While I think we all agree that we want to keep our boats as heavy as possible while we surf I personally don't have the time or the patience to move lead or ask people to sit here or there. We always have a decent crew of 8 on the boat so people are all over and their added weight negates any ballast draining to me. When Ragboy put out his video of where to put the lead I followed it to a T and I have to say it is dead on if you want to just set it and forget it. I had done my own version of lead placement before and it was similar but when I did it his way it worked out perfect. Now I just fill everything up all the way turn on autowake and go. I periodically through the day will flip all the switches and top the bags off and then let it do it's thing again. When surfing regular I am usually at 100, 100, 85 and for goofy it is 100,100,100 but it never drains more than 15% anywhere. I believe Autowake wont drain ballast if it knows that it will need to drain more the 20%. Instead it will tell you that pitch or roll cant be achieved and to basically move people which in that event I will ask a few people to move to the bow as it is only when I have a larger crew on a hot day (everyday here in TX) and everyone is in the cabin trying to get a little shade.


Roberts video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD1wEPrSWuw

Side note and not related to your post Hayden: I know I probably sound like a Ragboy (Robert) fanboy but I honestly feel like he is a huge asset to the surfing world with his wealth of knowledge and information he has out there especially to us SC customers. If you have a Moomba or Supra you can basically go to his youtube, look up your specific model of boat and he has a video telling you the exact formula to get a great wave. Maybe I am in the minority on that but I feel like most other brands don't have this.

[larry_arizona]

Hard NOT to be a fanboi of Ragboy.

Tremendous asset to the wake community.


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[HFarr]

It don't believe it needs to be raised for the wake makers kit as the point of the kit is to increase your displacement which should increase your "amplitude". Now that being said my amplitude bar is terrible. It has never really worked well as it seems like there is air trapped in it sometimes. I know I have read that it actually needs to "warm up" before it works well so maybe I need to pay attention to it later in my runs but there are times where I have a crew of 8-10 and are at full ballast (4,700 in water and 1k in lead) and the actual side of the bar is just pegged at the bottom. I don't worry about it to much any more as I have disabled the part of the autowake logic that uses it. You can read about that here in ragboy's post #89

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?36523-2021-Mojo-Update/page9&highlight=ragboy

https://wake9.com/2021/07/01/2021-moomba-mojo-settings/




Mine varies as well, sometimes it shows nothing and other times is shows 100% which is why I feel like there might be air stuck in it a times.



Did you do the amplitude like that or the inclinometer? I have done my inclinometer like that and I know there is way to calibrate the draft sensor I just don't remember where I read it. If you come across that video can you share it?

I know people have been setting up boats for years with out all of the fancy tech we have now but when I hear that people don't use Autowake I always wonder why. I will admit it took me a little bit to sort it out and get it dialed, but after watching and reading a bunch of Ragboy's stuff on Youtube/Wake9 Autowake works amazing for me and my wave is so consistent. I love it.You know what....it WAS the inclinometer I calibrated last summer! [emoji3526]. Sorry! I gotta stop posting after a few drinks!!

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[2in2out]

You know what....it WAS the inclinometer I calibrated last summer! [emoji3526]. Sorry! I gotta stop posting after a few drinks!!

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Why?!! Leads to great discussion.


2022 SA 450

[MLA]

Side note and not related to your post Hayden: I know I probably sound like a Ragboy (Robert) fanboy but I honestly feel like he is a huge asset to the surfing world with his wealth of knowledge and information he has out there especially to us SC customers. If you have a Moomba or Supra you can basically go to his youtube, look up your specific model of boat and he has a video telling you the exact formula to get a great wave. Maybe I am in the minority on that but I feel like most other brands don't have this.

Tige did, until Robert changed brands. Tige was the best, until, you know, SC put him in a boat.

[TXSurf4]

Hard NOT to be a fanboi of Ragboy.

Tremendous asset to the wake community.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk couldn’t agree more I just find myself telling people to reference this or that and it is all his stuff lol


You know what....it WAS the inclinometer I calibrated last summer! [emoji3526]. Sorry! I gotta stop posting after a few drinks!!

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Drink on my friend!!


Tige did, until Robert changed brands. Tige was the best, until, you know, SC put him in a boat.

For me it really isn’t even about his love for SC or this boat or that boat as much as it is his technical data but I get what you are saying.


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[larry_arizona]

I don’t care if Robert gets an SC boat or a Tige, more the power to him.

His knowledge helps no matter the brand, it’s a bonus that it helps SC boats more specifically.


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[WildH]

Does this allow Autowake to function properly too or just allow the bags to fully fill?


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FYI...I just tried unplugging mine this weekend and worked fine. No error codes. I just use the timers and overflow.

[Holdmybeer]

Everything TXsurf just said! A cheaper quick fix is to install an air bleeder valve in the top of the bag. I did this to my stock Makai bags. It worked fairly well. You can find them on Amazon or lots of other places. They are primarily used for irrigation lines. IF I recall correctly, you need 3/4" for the stock bags.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220621/99c966f7c4a980460427ff1d85b3dde5.jpg

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Super old thread, but trying to not fight the air this season.

How are these working for you? Do you still use them? $7 each x 3 is a cheap $21 fix.

[HFarr]

Super old thread, but trying to not fight the air this season.

How are these working for you? Do you still use them? $7 each x 3 is a cheap $21 fix.I actually only had one per bag, and they worked pretty well. I dont have them in now that I got the WM upgraded bags. They stood just tall enough that they hit the cover when the bags are full. There may be some lower profile, but I have not checked. I am going to plumb some tubing into my existing overflow vents,but just haven't done it yet.

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[Holdmybeer]

I figured 1 in each bag but I don't think it will fit on the bow bag.
Certainly would help on my 1100's in the rear.

[Tommy2slow]

I figured 1 in each bag but I don't think it will fit on the bow bag.
Certainly would help on my 1100's in the rear.

Not sure if the vent is different on your bow bag in your 2015, but the OEM vent in my 2020 works quite well. Mine is a hose connected to a fitting on the top of the bag at the extreme front. It exits out the side of the boat just in front of the driver. If I fill my back bags first, the boat pitch makes that vent the highest point on the bag so the air is pretty well bled. A check valve would help to ensure all air is removed but not essential.

[MJHSupra]

Tige did, until Robert changed brands. Tige was the best, until, you know, SC put him in a boat.

So true. Robert was a west coast Tige guy back in the day when everyone had HUGE boat lists to one side and the transoms almost sunk. Not to put Tige down, but they were slow to make technology changes as the surf industry was exploding. Never owned one, rode on a few, but know peeps that moved to different brands b/c of this. Not the case today, they had some nice boats at last winter's boat show.

Good move by SC to get Robert into a boat. Sells boats. Loves to talk to surfers or engineers about tech on boats. There is a video somewhere out there of him and his son designing and building a ballast system with software back in the day.

Here is one video from 2018 of those slammed Tige boats:


https://youtu.be/mBmpux3QJUQ