wakeplate travel and flow 3.0?

[vdubnick]

playing on my boat in my shop last night, decided to take a look at the wakeplate travel, more out of curiosity, as i wondered if you could accidentally flip surf on and damage the plate on the trailer.

well, surf tabs wont hit the trailer, but will hit the transom straps if they are still on. But I ended up with a couple concerns/questions:

for the Flow 3.0, do the added actuators only activate in the water, or when autowake is set? they didnt move with the surf side switch on.

MAIN CONCERN I noticed the wake plate actuator only went out about 1-2 inches, AND travel stopped at about 30-35% is this normal?

If i ran the WP to 0, it would re-zero, and travel would stop at 65-70. and if i ran to 100 (which is default when you turn key on) travel would stop at about 35-30.

wondering if anyone else noticed this, and if it is normal operation.

[vdubnick]

also noticed the settings (3 lines) button is non responsive... i dont think the boat needs to be running for it to work?

[HFarr]

Autowake does some dark magic stuff, so I won't try to explain it. But, I do know that you have no control over the little secondary tabs on the flow 3. They are fully controlled by the magic of the boat

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[vdubnick]

Autowake does some dark magic stuff, so I won't try to explain it. But, I do know that you have no control over the little secondary tabs on the flow 3. They are fully controlled by the magic of the boat

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thats what i was thinking... the main WP is my main concern, not sure if its a calibration issue, or if the actuator is bad

[Bigs28]

It was my understanding that your displacement played a roll in the tabs as well so there would be a different response in the water with all your ballasts full etc.....

[jnr4817]

What’s the point of the secondary tabs on the 3.0 system? Could you add small L shaped pieces of aluminum to the 2.0 system to give it extra yaw? Which is what I’m assuming the 3.0 system does.

[HFarr]

What’s the point of the secondary tabs on the 3.0 system? Could you add small L shaped pieces of aluminum to the 2.0 system to give it extra yaw? Which is what I’m assuming the 3.0 system does.That's exactly what that extra tab does. Give it Yaw that is. I am sure welded tabs could create yaw. Some of the tab systems out there do have a unique shape to them to do that. The trick is finding out how much to give it. Depending on your hull shape, the tab shape would be different too. Yaw is used to clean up the wave a bit if needed. The adjustable flow 3 system allows the yaw to be varied depending on your ballast load and speed. Again, some of that "magic formula" . Or what SC would prefer to call Research! And it is.

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[jnr4817]

I wish we had some of that equation. I would mind drilling a few holes in my surf tabs to add some l shaped aluminum if I knew it would help and not be a waste of time.

[vdubnick]

ok, so figured out that the settings button works, i was just not pushing hard enough. They used a thick rubber button to push a tactile switch, so there is subtle click when pressed hard enough.

I did find in the settings menu surf and yaw plate reset. but that looks like it is only if they get stuck down or something.

anyone know what the dealer options are? I am still wondering about the travel for the wakeplate. Can anyone verify length of travel, and/or if it moves 0-100 or are others getting limited 0-70 or 30-100 movement?

[vdubnick]

I wish we had some of that equation. I would mind drilling a few holes in my surf tabs to add some l shaped aluminum if I knew it would help and not be a waste of time.

honestly better off trying the GSA style, and add some fins to the tabs to help direct the water out more. ultimately though, the basic dimensions of the wave are all based on displacement and hull shape.

[vdubnick]

found lencos catalog, looks like they have 2 options for travel, 2.25 and 4.25, im going to go measure and see

http://www.delzer.com/oneasg/lenco/36/

[vdubnick]

found lencos catalog, looks like they have 2 options for travel, 2.25 and 4.25, im going to go measure and see

http://www.delzer.com/oneasg/lenco/36/

ok, actuator measures 10in, and seems to be a 101 XDS model, but the branding is 9L HP 4 on all 5 actuators. not listed on lencos sheet so it may be a custom config with reduced actuation.

mine are only extending 1.125", half of lencos shortest one listed.

[TXSurf4]

ok, so figured out that the settings button works, i was just not pushing hard enough. They used a thick rubber button to push a tactile switch, so there is subtle click when pressed hard enough.

I did find in the settings menu surf and yaw plate reset. but that looks like it is only if they get stuck down or something.

anyone know what the dealer options are? I am still wondering about the travel for the wakeplate. Can anyone verify length of travel, and/or if it moves 0-100 or are others getting limited 0-70 or 30-100 movement?

Mine definitely goes from 0-100 on the screen. If no one has a measurement to you by Friday I'll get you one. There is a dealer options menu but not sure that would really help you.

[TXSurf4]

I wish we had some of that equation. I would mind drilling a few holes in my surf tabs to add some l shaped aluminum if I knew it would help and not be a waste of time.

You would be better off cutting the plate adding a hinge with some bracketry and a turnbuckle to replicate the way 3.0 works. You would have to adjust them manually when needed. At first when I saw 3.0 I thought about taking my plates off and having them press broken to replicate but with the "Go Home Leveling" and Launch Assist (I think that is what it is called) the Flow plates are used so you need to be able to return the little tab to a neutral position so that option was out. In the end all 3.0 really does is make your wave a bit cleaner with a degree or 2 less roll. I decided it was something I could live without considering transfers aren't all that important to me and my crew but don't get me wrong if I built a new boat I would definitely option it with it lol

[vdubnick]

Mine definitely goes from 0-100 on the screen. If no one has a measurement to you by Friday I'll get you one. There is a dealer options menu but not sure that would really help you.

mine goes 0-100 on screen as well, it is just that the physical travel is only 0-70 or 100-30 depended where you start.


also, noticed that the surf plates max out at 90, but the manual adjustment on screen with the -/+ goes to 100, yet the "actual" on screen stops at 90

im thinking these may just be misses on the software end. I also emailed LENCO for specs, the fact that my actuators are not listed makes me worry a little bit less about the super short travel.

[TXSurf4]

mine goes 0-100 on screen as well, it is just that the physical travel is only 0-70 or 100-30 depended where you start.


also, noticed that the surf plates max out at 90, but the manual adjustment on screen with the -/+ goes to 100, yet the "actual" on screen stops at 90

im thinking these may just be misses on the software end. I also emailed LENCO for specs, the fact that my actuators are not listed makes me worry a little bit less about the super short travel.

Are you having issues with your wave or just analyzing the tab travel?

[vdubnick]

Are you having issues with your wave or just analyzing the tab travel?

just overanalyzing the tab... the engineer in me gets hung up on the details.

[TXSurf4]

just overanalyzing the tab... the engineer in me gets hung up on the details.

I completely understand. I do the same.

[HFarr]

just overanalyzing the tab... the engineer in me gets hung up on the details."Just because you can, doesn't mean you should". That's what Jeff Goldblum said on Jurassic park! LOL! I sometimes get like that too, and I think back to an old professor I had in college when we were doing some thermodynamics lab experiments on cooling towers. This was back in the day of using green graph paper and the little black and white lab notebooks to record everything. He looked over what several of the groups were doing at the time and said: " Just because you can record a data point doesn't mean you should". You have to be able to know which type of data is important and what it will tell you. If your not careful, you will end up with lots of numbers and graphs that dont really contain useful information, and won't do anything but confuse you." He was very right I think.

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[vdubnick]

"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should". That's what Jeff Goldblum said on Jurassic park! LOL! I sometimes get like that too, and I think back to an old professor I had in college when we were doing some thermodynamics lab experiments on cooling towers. This was back in the day of using green graph paper and the little black and white lab notebooks to record everything. He looked over what several of the groups were doing at the time and said: " Just because you can record a data point doesn't mean you should". You have to be able to know which type of data is important and what it will tell you. If your not careful, you will end up with lots of numbers and graphs that dont really contain useful information, and won't do anything but confuse you." He was very right I think.

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totally... i am a Mech E. so i get it. it just bothers me that the screen (0-100) does not match end to end in physical form. I am fine with the travel, or lack thereof if that is how it was best engineered. I am assuming/hoping that running the actuator for 30% at the end without travel doesnt cause premature wear or something.

[vdubnick]

ok, my assumptions about the actuators being a "special" non-catalog model for moomba was correct.

per Lenco, specs for the 9L HP 4 actuator are:
12 volt - 2.5 normal to 20amp max – 1.25 inch stroke – 5/16 inch upper mounting hole
3/8 inch lower mounting hole – 10 inches hole to hole

[TXSurf4]

ok, my assumptions about the actuators being a "special" non-catalog model for moomba was correct.

per Lenco, specs for the 9L HP 4 actuator are:
12 volt - 2.5 normal to 20amp max – 1.25 inch stroke – 5/16 inch upper mounting hole
3/8 inch lower mounting hole – 10 inches hole to hole

That is good info. So are you getting full stroke out of your actuators?

[vdubnick]

That is good info. So are you getting full stroke out of your actuators?

i would say so, im not sure what tolerance they have, but quick measuring with calipers i got a solid 1.13"

[Buckeye]

Curious... why is the default 100. I guess I'm wondering because it seems like the nose of the boat is already down, I'm thinking at speeds less than 7 mph. For me, the nose almost seems too low. (The anchor for the trailer wench is at water line). Also, if the center plate is all the way down, isn't it creating a certain amount of drag at low speeds? Would it be easier to maneuver / dock at low speeds and reverse with the plates all the way up?

[vdubnick]

well, found something else to add to the warranty list when i go in for 20hr tuneup. Starboard surf plate actuator sticks or is stripped out... I can get it to move if i apply pressure when it is activated, otherwise it just holds whatever position it was in. The flow3 tabs both work fine, it is just the main actuator for that tab.

explains why the other day i was out the wave went to shit.

also getting more air than i would expect in rear ballast, causing a timing issue where one side isnt fully draining and i have to reset and re-run it to empty.

[TXSurf4]

well, found something else to add to the warranty list when i go in for 20hr tuneup. Starboard surf plate actuator sticks or is stripped out... I can get it to move if i apply pressure when it is activated, otherwise it just holds whatever position it was in. The flow3 tabs both work fine, it is just the main actuator for that tab.

explains why the other day i was out the wave went to shit.

also getting more air than i would expect in rear ballast, causing a timing issue where one side isnt fully draining and i have to reset and re-run it to empty.

How many hours do you have left until your 20hr? Hopefully your dealer can get you in and out quick. Ya they will hold quite a but of air. You have to "bleed" them every time you fill to be completely full. The little self venting bladders can't keep up with the venting required.

[vdubnick]

How many hours do you have left until your 20hr? Hopefully your dealer can get you in and out quick. Ya they will hold quite a but of air. You have to "bleed" them every time you fill to be completely full. The little self venting bladders can't keep up with the venting required.

yeah, figured that out quick about the vents... still beats throwing a hose/pump over and filling manually.

I called the dealer today, i guess i can go in 10-30 hours... im gonna take it in a week and a half, next weekend is supposed to be nice, and it will take at least 2 days for them to do their thing. plus, im right over 10 hours, i want to get a few more on before i go in.

They said they have actuators in stock usually, so fingers crossed it is a 48hr turnaround. I really want to take the suspect actuator apart and see what failed. or if something is just loose.