Wakemakers Gravity 3 Ballast upgrade - 2008 XLV gg

[Beas]

I'm fairly new here, but wanted to reach out to see if anyone had experience doing this wakemakers upgrade?

I'm new to the boating world all together, but came across this upgrade and it looks like a no brainer. The XLV I bought last year filled and drained so inconsistently we pretty much stopped trying to surf. I'm sure those orbit sprinkler systems have been bashed here for years. Its terrible, I can't wait to rip it all out.

Here's the deal...I'm pretty mechanically sound. I've torn down cars and done engine conversions, etc. I watched the video on wake makers a dozen times before ordering and I feel 100% confident in my ability to install this system.

I have 3 friends that have been boating people since birth, so I always rely on them to run things by.

All 3 of them think I'm absolutely insane for wanting to drill these 2 thru holes in the bottom of the boat myself. Am I missing something? I don't mind paying to have it installed, but I just like to do these things myself.

The other problem with having a fiberglass place do it is that my boat is already stored/winterized in a warehouse that has a rack system. It has to be put in the water before I can get back on the trailer to the fiberglass shop. I don't want it to spend the first month of the summer in the shop.

[MJHSupra]

I'm fairly new here, but wanted to reach out to see if anyone had experience doing this wakemakers upgrade?

I'm new to the boating world all together, but came across this upgrade and it looks like a no brainer. The XLV I bought last year filled and drained so inconsistently we pretty much stopped trying to surf. I'm sure those orbit sprinkler systems have been bashed here for years. Its terrible, I can't wait to rip it all out.

Here's the deal...I'm pretty mechanically sound. I've torn down cars and done engine conversions, etc. I watched the video on wake makers a dozen times before ordering and I feel 100% confident in my ability to install this system.

I have 3 friends that have been boating people since birth, so I always rely on them to run things by.

All 3 of them think I'm absolutely insane for wanting to drill these 2 thru holes in the bottom of the boat myself. Am I missing something? I don't mind paying to have it installed, but I just like to do these things myself.

The other problem with having a fiberglass place do it is that my boat is already stored/winterized in a warehouse that has a rack system. It has to be put in the water before I can get back on the trailer to the fiberglass shop. I don't want it to spend the first month of the summer in the shop.

I did one on my previous 2007 Supra from Wakemakers. There should be some posts on this step-by-step. It's not that hard to do once you have it planned out. Having two people also helps.

Are you also upgrading the bags? If so, there are tips on installing the pluming for that with check-valves and vents.

[MJHSupra]

All 3 of them think I'm absolutely insane for wanting to drill these 2 thru holes in the bottom of the boat myself. Am I missing something? I don't mind paying to have it installed, but I just like to do these things myself.


It's worth it. Common answer for someone that does not know about wake boats or ballast systems.

You will want one hole for each of the back bags and one for the center/bow bag. That's how all the new boats are plumbed.

Wakemakers does have a good video on this. Just give some thought on where the holes will be so you have easy access to the valve to shut off.

Once you drill your first hole, not a big deal anymore. Starting the hole right is the biggest thing so you do not have add'l fiberglass cracks.

[Beas]

So you think its a good DIY project? Agreed, putting them in the correct spots is the most important part.

I did buy the upgraded bags too. I think I'll be going from 800#'s in the rear to over 2200#'s. Seems like overkill...but I like it!

Not to have those famous last words...but it just doesn't seem difficult at all.

[Beas]

And obviously move this post to the Mods page if we need too...MY FAULT!

[parrothd]

And obviously move this post to the Mods page if we need too...MY FAULT!

Honestly you can get by using the existing single hole you have, but it's just easier to drill 2 new holes. :)

Search the achieves, but you just need to find an easily accessible spot in the v-drive area and check the bottom of the hull for clearance and verify it's flat. This is the hard part as some boats don't have much room. Make sure the spot you pick allows access to the shut off handles opened and closed positions. Sometime I bend the handles and I like to pick a spot that gives enough room to make the install easy. I lay everything out in the hull and see how it will all fit then mark the location.

Then use very small drill bit 1/16th? and drill from the inside to the outside. This gives you a reference point and if you don't like the spot you have some play to move it around or fill it with 5200.. :) If like the spot I use a hole saw in reverse and to drill from outside to inside very slowly and softly, starting in reverse prevents help prevent any chipping.

Then I add add 5200 sealant to the thru hull and tighten up, don't over tighten, you just want it to hold it in place, then once it's cured tighten it. up again. You want to be careful adding the shutoff vales, etc, etc to not spin the thru hull fitting, best to wait to fully cured and not stress it. I put a little dab of 5200 of the threads so they don't vibrate loose.. :)

[MJHSupra]

And obviously move this post to the Mods page if we need too...MY FAULT!

it's not a big deal.

[MJHSupra]

So you think its a good DIY project? Agreed, putting them in the correct spots is the most important part.

I did buy the upgraded bags too. I think I'll be going from 800#'s in the rear to over 2200#'s. Seems like overkill...but I like it!

Not to have those famous last words...but it just doesn't seem difficult at all.

On my 2007, the stock was appx 400#s each. I originally bought 750s. Then sold those and went to 1100s.
Even if they do not fill all the way, the 1100s held more than the 750s and filled the whole space.

[MJHSupra]

So you think its a good DIY project? Agreed, putting them in the correct spots is the most important part.


Yes, but my comments are based on the number of people that have done this in the past. Lots of DIY peeps. There should be posts or pics to help you with the two planning items:

1) Where to drill the holes
2) Where to mount the pumps

My Supra allowed me to drill the holes around the V-Drive area. Spaced apart. Thus the access was easy when I lifted out the back cushion seat. If I recall, there were 2 holes on each side of the V-Drive - one at the front area and one towards the middle. The front holes were the raw water and orig ballast hole.

The other item on the original ballast hole, I used a cutting wheel to cut off the brass scupper. Thus it will NOT force water into the system when running down the lake. Not sure if you have one on your hull.

[MJHSupra]

I put a little dab of 5200 of the threads so they don't vibrate loose.. :)

I did the same on mine using 5200. It was solid.

[tre]

Yes, do it. I am not familiar with the wake makers kit but I'm guessing they include 3 ballast puppy reversible pumps. Mount the pumps in a place where they are easy to get to. You will likely need to change the impeller every 2-3 years in each pump. Electric is very different vs the stock pumps. The new pumps are high amp draw self priming pumps so you will need relays. You want three under water holes (one for each pump) in the bottom of the boat. They will fill and empty through the same hole. The pumps will not allow water past them when you are driving so you don't need sprinkler valves like your current aerator pumps. You will also want an overflow hole out the side of the boat for each bag. You may even want two per bag. These burp the air out of the bags and allow overflow so the bags don't burst. It is a pretty straight forward job. Make sure you have a manual valve at each under water hole just in case of emergency. The new boats all include this. Be careful drilling through the fiberglass so you don't crack it. Not difficult at all. Watch a video or two and you will learn everything you need to know. The job is not difficult for someone with your skills. You will have no problem and you will be MUCH happier with the boat. IF you don't have one, get a "suck gate" for the boat too. It will massively improve your surf wave with the new ballast.

[Hayden]

I did this on my old 2005 LSV 4 years ago. As far as I remember, the wakemakers kit has everything you'll need for wiring, (I don't remember needing to get extra relays). You reuse your existing thru hull and only drill 2 new ones for 3 total. You also reuse/combine lines for the venting of each bag. You shouldn't need to drill more vent holes.

The biggest issues I had afterwards were that I had to close the valves in a particular order because the handles were all so close together next to the vdrive. I assume the 08' XLV has more space but I've never seen one. We mounted our 3 pumps right above the vdrive/transmission, on the back of the center rear seat. Also, get utility gloves for when you're bending and mounting 1" hose. The heat gun will get it too hot to touch and a pair of gloves makes manhandling the hose onto the barbs faster/easier. Read through similar projects on here and post up any questions.

If you want, I have a short video I took that might be helpful on where/how I mounted the pumps. Private message me your email and I can send you a link.


Edit: Here's a public link

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oxrBXKbY6mmWazv19

[cucv]

So you think its a good DIY project? Agreed, putting them in the correct spots is the most important part.

I did buy the upgraded bags too. I think I'll be going from 800#'s in the rear to over 2200#'s. Seems like overkill...but I like it!

Not to have those famous last words...but it just doesn't seem difficult at all.In no time you will be buying lead ballast bags for even more! Sounds like you are very capable of this diy project, go for it, it's not that hard.
I think I've drilling close to 60 holes thru my hull below waterline with Ballast upgrades and diy surf system.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[sandm]

drilled several holes in boats in the past for ballast and up to 6.25" holes in interiors for speakers.
the old addage of measure twice applies and TAKE YOUR TIME. hole saw in reverse. blue painters tape off the area. watch a few vids. first one is always a little butt puckering but after that it's pretty cake.
done both round holes and used a dremel for a rectangle for a stereo and it's a piece of cake once you do the first one.

as far as the ballast upgrade goes, as others have said, ditching the orbits is a GREAT upgrade.

[Beas]

You guys are awesome. I was hoping to get this type of validation. Last Summer was so frustrating with that current set up. Everything was new to me so I didn't really know what was what. I've watched the wake makers video a hundred times and feel like i could do this whole project with my eyes closed...or at least with a few beers.

One of the friends I had suggested ditching the "Marine Silicone sealant" they send with the system and going with the 5200, that seems to be the consensus here too.

and here is the system for those not familiar. Wake Makers upgrade (https://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moomba-ballast-system-upgrade.html)

It was 20% off Black Friday.

[Beas]

And when you guys say "suck gate" is that the actual brand, or are you just saying any of these side mounted suction wake plates? I have now that came with the boat, not sure of the brand off hand, but it seems to work ok.

If I need to spend another $300 for one that's better I'm all ears though!

[MJHSupra]

Suck gate is a generic term to any wake shaper that mounts to the side of your boat with suction cups.

I had a homemade (single) one on my Supra - probably $30-40 in materials. Worked great.
Companies also make them for $200 and $300 for a brand name manufactured one.

There are companies that make single ones and double ones (Surf Mode) or stacking them like NautiCurl.
Some make a bigger face - like the Liquid Force Edge Mega Wake Shaper

What is the best? Opinions will vary. To me, the best one is the one that stays on your boat. Ones that float are a plus too. If you had Brand X and Brand Y mounted in the same hull location and mounted in the correct water position, I doubt you will see much difference in the wave. Can't really listen to the manufacturers b/c they will show bias photos of how theirs is the best.

[Beas]

I had assumed, but the term suck gate was new to me. Yes, I have a wake plate (thats what I've always called it). I'll stick with the one I have for now. With the new bags I should have more rood to get it closer to the water line. Right now I have to mount it too deep (IMO) just based on the hull shape.

[MJHSupra]

I had assumed, but the term suck gate was new to me. Yes, I have a wake plate (thats what I've always called it). I'll stick with the one I have for now. With the new bags I should have more rood to get it closer to the water line. Right now I have to mount it too deep (IMO) just based on the hull shape.

My 2007 was easy for mounting, it went as far back as I could get it and as low as I could get it on the side. Worked for the ballast and people setup.

[MJHSupra]

Brian sells a lot of these models. Pretty popular on social media. Also a Supra owner.

https://www.surf-mode.com/

[Beas]

Happy Monday guys! I've been slowing doing this project, but I hope to wrap it up this weekend since we're off Friday. Should have a helper Friday.

So far...old system removed, pumps mounted and all the electrical components are tied in and working.

I have the thru holes plotted out and there is a ton of room, so the fear there is gone.

Questions about the old plumbing and old wiring. This is where I'm a total noobie on a boat, the fill line that runs from the pump to the center bag. How the heck do I remove it? Its zip-tied as far as my arm can reach on both sides. Is pulling the floor up an option? (told you I had dumb questions). And the old wiring...do you guys pull it out too? Kind of the same story, I can't get to a lot of it. I hate to just leave it, but I don't see where that would cause any harm, just pull the fuses from under the steering wheel?

[parrothd]

Happy Monday guys! I've been slowing doing this project, but I hope to wrap it up this weekend since we're off Friday. Should have a helper Friday.

So far...old system removed, pumps mounted and all the electrical components are tied in and working.

I have the thru holes plotted out and there is a ton of room, so the fear there is gone.

Questions about the old plumbing and old wiring. This is where I'm a total noobie on a boat, the fill line that runs from the pump to the center bag. How the heck do I remove it? Its zip-tied as far as my arm can reach on both sides. Is pulling the floor up an option? (told you I had dumb questions). And the old wiring...do you guys pull it out too? Kind of the same story, I can't get to a lot of it. I hate to just leave it, but I don't see where that would cause any harm, just pull the fuses from under the steering wheel?

You have to pull the floor up, the hose is zip tied and just easier to run the new hose. I just disconnect the old wires from both ends and tie them up.

[996scott]

i pulled all the old wiring and hoses out. Get the floor up and things are pretty easy to get to.

[okedoky]

I did this upgrade about 3 years ago to my 2006 XLV it worked great but here are a few helpful hints.

To line up the drill locations, get a couple small magnets that can be placed on the inside and outside of the hull, this helps get the location exact.

Second, plan for replacing the impeller regularly to help the engine run smoothly

Lemme know if you have any specific questions

[MJHSupra]

I disconnected everything and left the old wires. Removed the old fuse panel under the dash on my previous 2007 Supra.

Ran all new wire with a two BusBars for the pumps and LEDs. Made sure the fuses were easy to get to, but never had any issues.

[Launch21V]

Just drilled my thru holes for the Gravity III upgrade today on my 2008 Launch 21V. Have really enjoyed the project thus far… still need to hide some wires and run a few hoses. My 12 year old daughter has been with me helping for the entire project… has been great time together!

Can’t wait to get it out for a test run… probably bring a bucket just in case [emoji51]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Beas]

Just drilled my thru holes for the Gravity III upgrade today on my 2008 Launch 21V. Have really enjoyed the project thus far… still need to hide some wires and run a few hoses. My 12 year old daughter has been with me helping for the entire project… has been great time together!

Can’t wait to get it out for a test run… probably bring a bucket just in case [emoji51]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! my thru holes are complete. I have put the boat back in the water though. It was about 90 here and I ran out of gas and forgot the heat gun to work the hoses on. Feel good about it though.

One problem I've run into is the connectors on my bow bag are glued in. Its the one bag I need to reuse. I need to replace those with the larger ones that came with the kit. Any tips on unscrewing those? I'm hitting it with a heat gun and putting goo gone in the cracks. Taking my time on it. I don't want to have to replace that bag. Keep taking it easy?

[Beas]

What an awesome upgrade. Would highly recommend. I haven't put an actual timer to the fill and drain times, but I think it fills 3 1100# bags in 6 or 7 minutes. Seems like they drain faster.

[Launch21V]

Tested out the gravity III today… game changer for our generation of boats. The project was enjoyable and the functionality is great. Highly recommend!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Launch21V]

What an awesome upgrade. Would highly recommend. I haven't put an actual timer to the fill and drain times, but I think it fills 3 1100# bags in 6 or 7 minutes. Seems like they drain faster.

When you drain the bags do you just listen for when to turn the pumps off or do you actually watch the bags? I got distracted and ran the pumps after the bags were empty longer than I should have… probably not good for the pumps [emoji51]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

The impellers can take a lot before shredding. Yours are new, they will be ok. Typically listen for the sound to change on the pumps. They get louder when not moving water.