Raptor Winterization

[JHutch]

First time Raptor owner

Is there any need to back fill with Antifreeze if you remove all 5 drain locations? Also do you reinstall or leave out for the winter?

What does everyone do for their ballast system?

I am in KY so we get low teens for maybe 1-2 weeks a year.

Thanks!

[larry_arizona]

No need to backfill antifreeze if all plugs are pulled.

Ballast system, just use pumps to pull as much as possible, pumps are self draining, ballast bags and tanks with a small amount of residual water are fine, plenty of room for expansion.

I leave plugs out until spring, the raptors have a blue plastic plug holder rack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JHutch]

Thanks, I found the holder. What are you guys using to test your coolant for freeze protection? I haven't found anything for local for propylene Glycol?

[larry_arizona]

Thanks, I found the holder. What are you guys using to test your coolant for freeze protection? I haven't found anything for local for propylene Glycol?

Amazon has several for PG.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[WildH]

So nobody is pouring RV antifreeze into the water cooling system at all? Just draining the plugs and leaving them go. I live in ND so it gets REALLY cold here.

[larry_arizona]

So nobody is pouring RV antifreeze into the water cooling system at all? Just draining the plugs and leaving them go. I live in ND so it gets REALLY cold here.

I have drained and refilled with marine anti freeze. I just don’t need to use antifreeze anymore. Draining is all I do. 2 boats 4 seasons with a raptor.

1) not necessary
2) not all marine antifreeze is good enough
3) it’s pouring $$$ down the drain

Trust Indmar when they designed a self draining raw water cooling system. Nowhere in the manual does it suggest marine antifreeze.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Branden967]

I have a slightly older boat then yours... I get the motor up to temp, let it suck in the antifreeze and then open and drain all the plugs. It may be over kill but its great piece of mind and cheap insurance on freeze protection. It gets cold here, and I dont want to deal with an issue come summer.

[larry_arizona]

I have a slightly older boat then yours... I get the motor up to temp, let it suck in the antifreeze and then open and drain all the plugs. It may be over kill but its great piece of mind and cheap insurance on freeze protection. It gets cold here, and I dont want to deal with an issue come summer.

Open loop cooling system is different than a raptor closed loop/raw water system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[russellsmojo]

Last year in Texas we had 6 or 7 days below freezing. Single digits. Only drained the raptor. Fired up and ran great all this year! If you have a raptor drain the plugs, forget about it, and go hunting [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JHutch]

I just drained the plugs and impeller. Feels weird not using AF but also made winterizing a 10 minute job!

[zabooda]

The antifreeze kick was started about 15-20 years ago by shops who winterized boats as on occasion customers would come back with cracked blocks. The finger pointing started there with some shoddy work but also customers also would use the boat and fail to rewinterize. Shops started to winterize and leave parts bagged like the impeller to get them back in the spring. Using antifreeze, shops reduced the liability issues. The only benefit using antifreeze is with raw water cooling and reducing corrosion. Draining works well *if* done correctly. That can be said of using antifreeze also.

[eder10986]

Wondering where this blue plug holder is [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

Wondering where this blue plug holder is [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rear of boat (front of engine) on top near flame arrestor (air intake). It’s a blue Plastic arc over the alternator.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eder10986]

Rear of boat (front of engine) on top near flame arrestor (air intake). It’s a blue Plastic arc over the alternator.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know exactly where that is. Thanks bro!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jason1975]

From what my dealer said, they just drained the motor and the do NOT use any antifreeze in my 2019 Raptor. said it wasn't needed. I trust that. if you drain the water there is nothing to freeze.

[larry_arizona]

From what my dealer said, they just drained the motor and the do NOT use any antifreeze in my 2019 Raptor. said it wasn't needed. I trust that. if you drain the water there is nothing to freeze.

Raptors are closed loop cooling, the engine has full time antifreeze in the block and heads just like an automotive application.

Closed loop cooling requires a separate raw water cooling loop that uses lake water and a heat exchanger to cool the engine.

Winterizing a closed loop engine application is draining this raw water loop only.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zabooda]

Closed loop is so much easier and better for the engine. The last couple of years I had my 98 Moomba I spent more time winterizing it than I did running it. I felt that was a good criteria to sell it. Lol

[WildH]

So the moral of the story is if you’re reasonably handy, save the $700 and turn out the blue plugs yourself, drain the ballast bags, and change the oil. I can handle that.

But don’t skimp on the 20 hour service check/tune.

[Mxmark4]

Trying to get mine done this weekend. Need to change oil and plugs too while im in there. Needs a serious wash and wax and put her to bed for now. Winterized my malibu last week, shot a few gallons of rv antifreeze into it since its old school. Wasnt anticipating havingnto winterize and store 2 boats all winter but oh well.

[Holdmybeer]

Fyi....take your time with the Plugs on the raptor. 16 total to change. ECU and bracket are in the way on 1 side and fuse box on the other. Easy job just time consuming.

[Mxmark4]

Been dealin with this damn boat all day pull plug on heat exchanger undid crossover hose and drained v drive (big brass plug) and pulled impeller housing impeller is stuck like hell in there. Spark plugs are next, changed oil already. Am I missing another plug anywhere ?

[Holdmybeer]

When I did mine it was exhaust manifold (mine wasn't a crossover it was separate Plugs for each). Heat exchanger anode/plug, blue plug by raw water impeller, pull impeller (buy the tool 5 minute job). Anode/plug v-drive. Change oil, all 16 plugs, drain all ballast, pulled rear bags to dry out lockers, changed all 3 ballast impellers....4hr job

[eder10986]

Been dealin with this damn boat all day pull plug on heat exchanger undid crossover hose and drained v drive (big brass plug) and pulled impeller housing impeller is stuck like hell in there. Spark plugs are next, changed oil already. Am I missing another plug anywhere ?

I don’t think my 17raptor 400 has a brass plug on the v drive. Right?

I have blue plug, which I pulled along with the transmission cooler hose and drained them both.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

I don’t think my 17raptor 400 has a brass plug on the v drive. Right?

I have blue plug, which I pulled along with the transmission cooler hose and drained them both.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your year should be all blue plugs that screw into the larger brass anodes. Previous owner(s) and myself have only been in fresh water and my anodes from 2015 are still good. I doubt you need to check yours unless the water is brackish or salt.

[Mxmark4]

Got my impeller out will definitely be buying the tool. Need to order new impeller, and I need to do the ballast pumps but need tp fond them first lol. Plugs will get done one night this week. Actually they look to be a fairly simple job. Went to pull ce ter drain plug and the same gorilla that over torqued my oil filter must have put center drain plug in there too. As its surrounded by the tank om wondering if I cant take a water meter key and slip over the t handle and get it loose. Pissed me off that its so tight I cant remove it but I guess I also dont have to worry bout it coming out.

[larry_arizona]

I just use needle nose pliers and work top and bottom and it comes out fairly easy. WD40 helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jason1975]

i would kind of avoid WD40 and use soapy water. Dawn dish soap.

[Holdmybeer]

Got my impeller out will definitely be buying the tool. Need to order new impeller, and I need to do the ballast pumps but need tp fond them first lol. Plugs will get done one night this week. Actually they look to be a fairly simple job. Went to pull ce ter drain plug and the same gorilla that over torqued my oil filter must have put center drain plug in there too. As its surrounded by the tank om wondering if I cant take a water meter key and slip over the t handle and get it loose. Pissed me off that its so tight I cant remove it but I guess I also dont have to worry bout it coming out.

I have used a tool I made to remove mine for the same reason you stated. Now I hand tighten it and remove the center plug each time and it saves the pain. If you leave yours in the water or lift all season that is certainly different.
The ballast pumps are behind the false walls in the rear lockers. 3 Pump system there should be 1 on the starboard side and 2 port side. Just remove 2 phillips screws on the top and the 2 holding the aluminum foot to the bottom and they lift out of the way. The kits I bought came with new brass screws so I wasn't worried about the old ones. A couple I had to use vise grips to spin them because they stripped out using a flat head screw driver.

Spark plugs are easy just time consuming. I mean 16 plugs...really Ford! The topside ones are wasted spark anyway but whatever.

[eder10986]

Your year should be all blue plugs that screw into the larger brass anodes. Previous owner(s) and myself have only been in fresh water and my anodes from 2015 are still good. I doubt you need to check yours unless the water is brackish or salt.

Thanks!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxmark4]

I have used a tool I made to remove mine for the same reason you stated. Now I hand tighten it and remove the center plug each time and it saves the pain. If you leave yours in the water or lift all season that is certainly different.
The ballast pumps are behind the false walls in the rear lockers. 3 Pump system there should be 1 on the starboard side and 2 port side. Just remove 2 phillips screws on the top and the 2 holding the aluminum foot to the bottom and they lift out of the way. The kits I bought came with new brass screws so I wasn't worried about the old ones. A couple I had to use vise grips to spin them because they stripped out using a flat head screw driver.

Spark plugs are easy just time consuming. I mean 16 plugs...really Ford! The topside ones are wasted spark anyway but whatever.

Thank you! Good to know where yhe ballast pumps are gonna get them winterized too, water meter key worked like a charm to loosen the center drain plug.

[Holdmybeer]

Thank you! Good to know where yhe ballast pumps are gonna get them winterized too, water meter key worked like a charm to loosen the center drain plug.

Not much to winterize on the ballast pumps.

I ran mine until nothing came out. Pulled the rear bags and dumped what I could then left them out of the boat.
Once you change ballast impellers there is nothing to freeze. The center tanks holds 500# of water in your Mondo. That is a lot of room for expansion if you have it drained. I cranked my trailer nose high and ran the center/front ballast pump until nothing came out. Just check your bow bag if you are not pulling it, to make sure it is actually empty. I disconnect mine so the fittings don't crack, but I didn't remove it. No need for anti-freeze in these boats with closed loop cooling.

[RUGER761]

Looks like I'll be doing ours this weekend, was really hoping to get one more weekend in, but doesn't look like that's going to happen. Going to change the oil (motor, tras, and vdrive) then winterize. Should be interesting compared to our old 5.7L DDive that was super easy. Fuel filter looks like it might be fun to change out. Ordered a set of line wrenches to maybe make that easier to do. Not sure why they put the filter where they did.

[MJHSupra]

Here is a tip when changing ballast impellers.

They make replacement housing screws that fit a socket. Every little bit helps. Screw drivers, even the stubby ones, are sometimes hard to get into these areas.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211111/596b943a6f3ba5e72b00e3243b7bd4c2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KnoxMojo]

Here is a tip when changing ballast impellers.

They make replacement housing screws that fit a socket. Every little bit helps. Screw drivers, even the stubby ones, are sometimes hard to get into these areas.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude, I have been trying for 2 years to find these! Where did you get them? I ordered some for the raw water housing, but they aren't the same as the ballast pump housing. I have been to Fastenal and another online store, can't find them. I did find the screw specs, but nothing has matched it.

[larry_arizona]

My 18 and 21 came with the socket/screwdriver house bolts, they were just painted over in black.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

Dude, I have been trying for 2 years to find these! Where did you get them? I ordered some for the raw water housing, but they aren't the same as the ballast pump housing. I have been to Fastenal and another online store, can't find them. I did find the screw specs, but nothing has matched it.

Try searching "Hex Head machine Screw". Should have more luck.

Getting brass is the hard part, not necessarily the size (12-24 x 3/8") is what you are looking for. I do not need 100 of them in zinc coated but these would work just do not over tighten.

https://www.aftfasteners.com/products/12-24x3-8-f-t-machine-screw-indented-hex-head-unslotted-coarse-zinc-cr-3-100-pkg.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxv2Y08qQ9AIVumxvBB3srAD _EAQYBCABEgJpmfD_BwE

[KnoxMojo]

My 18 and 21 came with the socket/screwdriver house bolts, they were just painted over in black.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 15 and 18 had hex bolts for the raw water impeller but not the ballast pumps. I even called Jabsco, they said they don't offer hex heads for the ballast pumps.

[z28ke]

Dude, I have been trying for 2 years to find these! Where did you get them? I ordered some for the raw water housing, but they aren't the same as the ballast pump housing. I have been to Fastenal and another online store, can't find them. I did find the screw specs, but nothing has matched it.

Same here I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find any. They would make impeller changes on the g6 so much faster, especially the bow pumps that I’m having to access through the center drain plug portal.

[HFarr]

Sometimes you autoparts stores have something that will fit. I would go with stainless over zinc if you can find it. Brass will be harder to find

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

No need to backfill antifreeze if all plugs are pulled.

Ballast system, just use pumps to pull as much as possible, pumps are self draining, ballast bags and tanks with a small amount of residual water are fine, plenty of room for expansion.

I leave plugs out until spring, the raptors have a blue plastic plug holder rack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys.

I have ready many post about winterizing the raptor and read my manual extensively. Is it really that easy to drain the raw water side? 2 blue plugs, vdrive plug and heat exchanger plug? And the heater is on the closed side?

As I was searching around my boat last weekend I was looking for a water strainer for the ballast and couldn’t find it. May it be hiding behind a panel?

Lastly I found all my ballast pumps and they are mounted horizontally. Can I still push air the rough them to expel any water that may be left in the lines?

Advice is always appreciated.

Richard.

16 Craz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Zog]

My 2016 Mojo doesn't have a strainer for the ballast intakes, so you are probably good.

[larry_arizona]

Hey guys.

I have ready many post about winterizing the raptor and read my manual extensively. Is it really that easy to drain the raw water side? 2 blue plugs, vdrive plug and heat exchanger plug? And the heater is on the closed side?

As I was searching around my boat last weekend I was looking for a water strainer for the ballast and couldn’t find it. May it be hiding behind a panel?

Lastly I found all my ballast pumps and they are mounted horizontally. Can I still push air the rough them to expel any water that may be left in the lines?

Advice is always appreciated.

Richard.

16 Craz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Each year raptor is a little different, there should be a crossover hose with a brass fitting, be sure to disconnect and let drain.

You might also have a transmission drain hose with a blue plug. My 2018 had one, but my 2021 does not.

There isn’t a strainer for the ballast.

Heater is on the closed loop cooling system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

Ballast pumps will drain automatically....they are higher than the bags and in floor tank. I remove my rear bags just to be safe. I also disconnect the hose for my bow bag once I use the pumps to drain as much as possible.

2016
2 blue plugs
V-drive plug directly under the prop coupler
Heat exchanger plug behind the oil filter
Open the raw water pump cover - leave open until spring and change impeller then
Manifold crossover hose OR brass plugs - one on the bottom of each exhaust manifold close to the v-drive (my 2015 has plugs not a hose)

Heater loop is closed loop don't need to worry about it.
Fuel stabilizer and fill the tank to avoid condensation

I leave the center drain open after every trip to the lake and all winter. Allows any liquid that drains to exit the hull.

Last year it took about 35 minutes to winterize. The other 2.5hrs were fluids/filter and spark plugs.

[Kidder522]

Awesome. Thanks.

My manifold cross over hose has a blue plug.
That and the blue plug on the raw water/transmission cooler is blue.

2 plugs. One on vdrive and one on heat exchanger.

So I only have 2 blue plugs and 2 threaded plugs.

Am I missing another blue plug? My owners manual shows 4 drain points. If this is the case, it is the easiest winterization I have had in 10 years!!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220923/7677b5116a1f7679bb7a3619f69125d4.jpg


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

Your diagram....
A is a blue plug
B is a metal plug/anode combo
C is a blue plug OR separate brass plugs OR a garden hose connection you open

V-drive is a large 1" socket brass plug/anode combo

Again, I remove the cover on my raw water pump.
Done. You can use an air compressor to lightly blow out water but they all drain pretty good.

[Kidder522]

Perfect. That’s what I thought!!

Just saved me $650 to get it done at our local marina.


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

Ok. Well the Craz is all winterized. I made a spreadsheet and check list to follow for this new to me process but I feel like it went pretty good.

Fuel stabilizer.
Full tank of premium
New Wix oil filter
5W-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic.
Removed vdrive plug/anode
Removed removed blue manifold plug
Removed heat exchanger blue plug
Removed transmission cooler plug/anode
Removed impeller housing plate
Removed batteries and put on battery tenders.
Removed rear bags
Blew air through ballast hoses
Removed both boat drain plugs.

All in about 3 hours but removing plugs was 30 minutes.

If I can find a way to share the checklist I’ll post it.

Now the hard part is not stressing over a Canadian winter that I did it right!!!

Richard


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220925/6f0f6f1616c815536713b00719706698.jpg


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

Can someone let me know the part number for the raw water impeller. I have 2 new ones that were for the LSV. Looks the same but just wondering.

Thanks.

Richard.


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

Johnson Pump 09-812B-1 F6

[MJHSupra]

GM and Ford all use the same numbers

[Kidder522]

Thank you. So they haven’t changed in 20 years??


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Buckeye]

This is awesome. Does anybody have a preference on the type or brand of fuel stablizer they use or does it matter?

[larry_arizona]

This is awesome. Does anybody have a preference on the type or brand of fuel stablizer they use or does it matter?

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Concentrate - Rejuvenate & Stabilize Old Gasoline, Cure Ethanol Problems, Improve MPG, Reduce Emissions, Increase Horsepower https://a.co/d/egFubOV


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxmark4]

I have always used sta-bil and it has done good for me. Treat my generator, lawn equipment, and boat with it with no issues starting in spring.

[Holdmybeer]

I use what Larry uses.
Treat everything with it without issues.
I used to use SeaFoam also and never had issues either.

[Kidder522]

I have always used sta-bil and it has done good for me. Treat my generator, lawn equipment, and boat with it with no issues starting in spring.

Sta-bil for me. I have never had an issue in the spring with fuel or start up.


2003 Outback
2007 LSV
2016 Craz

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

I wouldn’t overthink fuel stabilizers too much.

I recall Indmar recommends Lucas stabilizer.

But one thing is, make sure it’s a stabilizer and not just a cleaner or water treatment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

I agree with @larry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jason1975]

I use Seafoam and Mercury Marine #3 fuel stabilizer. Never had an issue with any boat, sled, lawn equipment. I just mix some in a one gallon can with gas and put it in and run around the lake.

[Max20]

Another “is this reallly it!” question.

2019 Makai with 400

I have 3 blue plugs
1. Transmission
2. Directly under cylindrical heat exchanger
3. On a line near heat exchanger
Beyond the 3 plugs there is a hose near the transmission with a garden hose fitting that had to be disconnected.

I will loosen the cover for the raw water pump impeller, but change in the spring.

Am I missing anything? I boat only fresh water lakes so I am not taking any anodes out. BTW the plugs near the heat exchanger are quite a reach, how do you all do it? Lay on the motor like I did or do you take the side wall out?

I will change oil, trans, Vdrive fluids another day and replace impeller in the spring.

Anyone have part numbers for impeller? Also I have the g6 ballast system, thinking about changing those impellers in the spring - anyone have a part number for those?

Thanks in advance!

[larry_arizona]

Another “is this reallly it!” question.

2019 Makai with 400

I have 3 blue plugs
1. Transmission
2. Directly under cylindrical heat exchanger
3. On a line near heat exchanger
Beyond the 3 plugs there is a hose near the transmission with a garden hose fitting that had to be disconnected.

I will loosen the cover for the raw water pump impeller, but change in the spring.

Am I missing anything? I boat only fresh water lakes so I am not taking any anodes out. BTW the plugs near the heat exchanger are quite a reach, how do you all do it? Lay on the motor like I did or do you take the side wall out?

I will change oil, trans, Vdrive fluids another day and replace impeller in the spring.

Anyone have part numbers for impeller? Also I have the g6 ballast system, thinking about changing those impellers in the spring - anyone have a part number for those?

Thanks in advance!

There is a brass garden hose connector on top of the V drive and technically you should undo your water pump housing lid, but honestly, no water ever sits in the pump housing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

It is really that simple.

I usually pull the impeller and let it sit with the cover off and impeller out all winter.

Pulling the side walls is to only way to reach the front of the engine.

I have an older boat so I pull my rear bags and drain but this is also so I don't stand on them doing the other work.

Oil extractor is your friend. Take a 1/4 air fitting, screw it on the oil drain hose, attach to oil extractor line and pump 100% of it out.

[larry_arizona]

Pulled the drain plugs yesterday and I am
Going to bitch about the heat exchanger plug on a Gen 3 SA.

There is no easy way to reach it, despite it being so easy to see through the surf locker.

Sumabitch!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

Pulled the drain plugs yesterday and I am
Going to bitch about the heat exchanger plug on a Gen 3 SA.

There is no easy way to reach it, despite it being so easy to see through the surf locker.

Sumabitch!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Larry, don't feel bad for being angry. My 2015 Mojo exchanger plug is behind my oil filter. What a PITA!.
To make matters worse I have Plugs in my manifolds not a hose connection. Of course one of the brass plugs stripped on the head..got it out with vise grips but just little things that drive you crazy.

[Max20]

Thanks everyone - I had plenty to do today and as much as I would like to say I’ll get all the fluids changed it will likely be after the winter’s nap. It’s hunting season…lol

[MJHSupra]

Pulled the drain plugs yesterday and I am
Going to bitch about the heat exchanger plug on a Gen 3 SA.

There is no easy way to reach it, despite it being so easy to see through the surf locker.

Sumabitch!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not able to access via the skim board locker?

[larry_arizona]

Not able to access via the skim board locker?

Well maybe if my arm was a foot longer lol, but yeah, can’t reach it through the surf locker. But it’s right there visually, just out of reach.

I have to crawl into the starboard side storage locker, with engine dividers, rear panel and surf locker engine cover removed.

Reaching with my left arm/hand around and under plumbing blindly finding the blue wing nut. Then having nearly zero leverage to spin it.

Even harder to put the plug back in as my range of motion blindly trying to thread it in.

The Gen2 SA was a bit easier due to the subfloor being deeper in boat by about a foot.

Been thinking about fabricating an extension hose to install making winterization eaaier, it will suck to install, but once installed, life will be easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

Been thinking about fabricating an extension hose to install making winterization eaaier, it will suck to install, but once installed, life will be easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was telling someone about that over the weekend. Not sure why that is not standard from the factory. Like the extra-length on the oil drain hose.

If you are not careful it makes your arm look like you got into a cat-fight with all the scratches from all the contorting under there.

[larry_arizona]

I was telling someone about that over the weekend. Not sure why that is not standard from the factory. Like the extra-length on the oil drain hose.

If you are not careful it makes your arm look like you got into a cat-fight with all the scratches from all the contorting under there.

Cat fight is an understatement….lol

Indmar has made drain point extension hoses on the raptors before. I had one on my 2018 transmission, but now my 2021 transmission hose connects to the V drive and both drain using thd v drive plug.

I would actually do an extension hose on both starboard drain points.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[WildH]

It is really that simple.

I usually pull the impeller and let it sit with the cover off and impeller out all winter.

Pulling the side walls is to only way to reach the front of the engine.

I have an older boat so I pull my rear bags and drain but this is also so I don't stand on them doing the other work.

Oil extractor is your friend. Take a 1/4 air fitting, screw it on the oil drain hose, attach to oil extractor line and pump 100% of it out.

Yes! Just get one of the pump style ones on Amazon for $70 and mount up one of those air fittings. I tried an electric pump and what a messy pain in the ass. The hand pump ones with the catch container are so much easier. I went around sucking the oil out of everything after the boat! Golf cart, snowmobile, mower, Lol.

I drained the plugs, reinstalled, ran 3 gallons of antifreeze through, then redrained plugs and left out. Probably overkill, but sleep better.

[JHCMondo]

I do. For $15 and 10 minutes of time it's good cheap insurance.

I run it up to temp. Remove all the plugs and reinstall . Hookup a pump and pump antifreeze through the engine till it comes out pink. I let it sit for 30 minutes then I remove all the drains again. About 10 minutes of active easy work.

[jcarter20]

I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The closed loop cooling is its own antifreeze loop. No need at all to run up to temp on the raw water side. No thermostat on this open loop. Fake-a-Lake to exhaust catch tray. Should take about 2 minutes and you are done. Truthfully in Ohio I don't do it since mine doesn't sit outside. My old I/O had to have antifreeze ran through it or bad things happened.

[MJHSupra]

I was reading this and was going to ask if anyone rain antifreeze through the system. So, is it necessary to run up to temp? With it being closed cooling I wasn’t sure if a t stat had to open or not.
I run mine up to temp with water, drain and then circulate about 7 gals of antifreeze for 10 min or so. Probably overkill, but I treated it like my old I/O’s. I have a tub that catches the antifreeze under the wake plate and a circulation pump pushing it back to a fake a lake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are all good since it's two different systems. The debate happens each year on running antifreeze vs not-running antifreeze. Then there are some that run antifreeze and drain it and some that leave it in during the winter months. My theory is whatever makes you sleep better at night.

A newer one I read on social media was to just hook up the antifreeze to run through the system without draining the water first. I'm not sure of going to the time and trouble if running antifreeze if it would just be diluted with existing water in system. I guess the theory is new liquid pushes out the old liquid, but oh well, not how I would proceed.

[Hayden]

A newer one I read on social media was to just hook up the antifreeze to run through the system without draining the water first. I'm not sure of going to the time and trouble if running antifreeze if it would just be diluted with existing water in system. I guess the theory is new liquid pushes out the old liquid, but oh well, not how I would proceed.

This is too risky in my opinion. If you spend the effort to winterize, drain the water first, then use or don't use antifreeze depending on preference. I always antifreeze.

[larry_arizona]

I will just add that marine antifreeze varies and is complicated as far a freeze point and burst point as well as made for RV plumbing or Engine winterization, they are not all the same or universal.

Let’s just say I have done it both ways on a raptor and currently pull the plugs, let it drain and put plugs back in, it really is that easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

This is too risky in my opinion. If you spend the effort to winterize, drain the water first, then use or don't use antifreeze depending on preference. I always antifreeze.

100% . . . .

[eder10986]

Any tips or tricks to get to the blue plug on the heat exchanger?

No matter how hard I tried I could not reach it through the storage locker with the panel removed.

I had to once again remove the ski locker on our 17 Supra to get to it, which adds another step.

Thoughts on always draining the transmission cooler?

Otherwise it is definitely a simple process to drain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

Any tips or tricks to get to the blue plug on the heat exchanger?

No matter how hard I tried I could not reach it through the storage locker with the panel removed.

I had to once again remove the ski locker on our 17 Supra to get to it, which adds another step.

Thoughts on always draining the transmission cooler?

Otherwise it is definitely a simple process to drain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ask your 7 foot friend with skinny arms to help you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

Any tips or tricks to get to the blue plug on the heat exchanger?

No matter how hard I tried I could not reach it through the storage locker with the panel removed.

I had to once again remove the ski locker on our 17 Supra to get to it, which adds another step.

Thoughts on always draining the transmission cooler?

Otherwise it is definitely a simple process to drain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 18 has a plastic cover to access via the board locker when standing on the swim platform. Once I took that off years ago, I never attach all the plastic pieces back. It stays in place and makes it easy for taking off each winter.

17s do not have that?

[eder10986]

My 18 has a plastic cover to access via the board locker when standing on the swim platform. Once I took that off years ago, I never attach all the plastic pieces back. It stays in place and makes it easy for taking off each winter.

17s do not have that?

It does. That’s what I meant by ski locker. I only have it attached with 2 screws now. Did you take them all out for ease?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

It does. That’s what I meant by ski locker. I only have it attached with 2 screws now. Did you take them all out for ease?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have it attached by a few of the screws, not all of them. If I recall, there are some SS screws and plastic ones that lock/unlock. I have some lead bags back there and a few skim boards. The area is not that big, so once that stuff gets in there, that plastic cover would not move even if the screws came out.

I think the new models have a fancier cover that protects the back of the motor.

[larry_arizona]

I have it attached by a few of the screws, not all of them. If I recall, there are some SS screws and plastic ones that lock/unlock. I have some lead bags back there and a few skim boards. The area is not that big, so once that stuff gets in there, that plastic cover would not move even if the screws came out.

I think the new models have a fancier cover that protects the back of the motor.

The gen3 SA engine panel has 5 screws but easier than the Gen2 SA with the wing nuts.

But you can’t reach the heat Exchanger plug through the ski locker, the gen3 locker is deeper. I am 6-2 and not even close to reaching it.

I have to pull all the locker dividers to reach it through the side storage locker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Max20]

Any tips/tricks on Vdrive and transmission fluid changes?

[Holdmybeer]

Any tips/tricks on Vdrive and transmission fluid changes?

Oil extractor! Only way to "easily" make it happen.

[Max20]

Roger that. Anyone have opinions on oils for each….I realize that could be a Pandora’s box question

[larry_arizona]

I wouldn't overthink the fluids. Personally I use a full synthetic ATF 3/Mercon for transmission and Full Synthetic SAE 50 for V drive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

I ordered the Mobil Delvac SAE 50. Gallon was $60 so good for awhile. The transmission I used whatever the sticker said. As for brand, I may have use Mobil also. Just stick to something that meets or exceeds standards. I use all synthetic because these machines have loads everytime they are started.

[Max20]

Thanks folks, appreciate your opinions

[MJHSupra]

I use the same as @larry_arizona.

Indmar “brands” the v-drive oil, not sure how big the amours. You may find some if you ask your auto parts store. I found some Mobile High Performance synthetic at mine. It was still expensive for the quart price.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RUGER761]

I use the same as @larry_arizona.

Indmar “brands” the v-drive oil, not sure how big the amours. You may find some if you ask your auto parts store. I found some Mobile High Performance synthetic at mine. It was still expensive for the quart price.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep we’re running Mobile SHC 630 it’s still $24 a quart, but that’s what indmar sent as a substitute for their branded oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[2in2out]

I dropped a plug into the bilge under the engine yesterday.

Anyone have advice on recovering?

I couldn’t see it with my inspection mirror. Other than run a small shop vac hose under there, I can’t think of anything else to do besides buy a new plug (which having some spares seems like a hell of an idea now).


2022 SA 450

[larry_arizona]

I dropped a plug into the bilge under the engine yesterday.

Anyone have advice on recovering?

I couldn’t see it with my inspection mirror. Other than run a small shop vac hose under there, I can’t think of anything else to do besides buy a new plug (which having some spares seems like a hell of an idea now).


2022 SA 450

Assuming you mean the blue drain plugs.

I would try using an air gun to blow it towards the back of the transom. I have found most nuts and bolts migrate to the transom.

I have found several fasteners in the back that were dropped during boat assembly .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[2in2out]

Assuming you mean the blue drain plugs.

I would try using an air gun to blow it towards the back of the transom. I have found most nuts and bolts migrate to the transom.

I have found several fasteners in the back that were dropped during boat assembly .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was also thinking leaf blower for the same purpose.

It’s a 45 min drive to get to our storage unit, and the temp inside per the dash temp in the boat was 99F. Wednesday it’ll be 105, and I don’t want to be messing around too long trying to get the last plug in.

I’m gonna get a spare then search for the missing one. I’m also going to leash it to my wrist so my sweaty ass hands don’t drop another in there.


2022 SA 450

[MJHSupra]

I used a garden hose to push what I dropped under the engine. I was able to access via the ski locker. Still was. PITA to be able to reach down to pick it up.

Dealer gave me some extra blue plugs when I cracked one a few years ago on the trans filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

I did buy some extension kits from bakes to make it easier pulling and replacing plugs in the future. Will be a pita to install, but pay off in the long run. Will be able to get the two rear drains easily through the surf locker.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230613/b5b1667680df1360eab3bd2480008d12.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eder10986]

I did buy some extension kits from bakes to make it easier pulling and replacing plugs in the future. Will be a pita to install, but pay off in the long run. Will be able to get the two rear drains easily through the surf locker.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230613/b5b1667680df1360eab3bd2480008d12.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is an awesome idea! Then I won’t have to pull the ski locker panel off to reach that plug! I could access it from the ski locker.

I think I’m going to get one myself.

You said kits…besides the heat exchanger where are you installing the other one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RUGER761]

I did buy some extension kits from bakes to make it easier pulling and replacing plugs in the future. Will be a pita to install, but pay off in the long run. Will be able to get the two rear drains easily through the surf locker.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230613/b5b1667680df1360eab3bd2480008d12.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a great idea, I’ll have to do that this winter as well!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

On my 2021 400, I am installing on kit on the bottom of heat exchanger and the other on the lower hose T, both are equally hard to install on my SA. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230613/31a637a5fdf158562044b882807a1026.jpg
Adding extensions to locations 3 and 4 in figure 8.3.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk