View Full Version : De-winterizing

04-26-2007, 09:58 AM
I finally decided (after 2 years of owning my boat) that I was willing to get dirty and attempt to learn this proces of de-winterizing and hopefully save some $$$ and feel like a boat owner instead of a 'take it to the shop' flunkie :wink:

So....I was wondering if all you guru's out there could tell me any 'watch out for this' in terms of things I might have missed. Here is what I did:

1. Put the battery back in...fully charged and ready to go.
2. Replaced the two small 'black' screws into the front end of the engine (tranny?)
3. Replaced the two large brass plugs on each side of the lower engine block.
4. Connected the quick-connect hose (I almost didn't see this one, that's why I'm a nervous elk over here)
5. Connected the variety of hoses to the manifolds, engine, transmission,e tc.
6. Made sure my water filters were snug and all hoses tightened.

It seemed way too simple. I checked fluid levels and all is good. I put in the main 'plug' so I don't sink, and can't think of anything else. My buddy told me to look for a hose that I could attach to my garden hose to test the boat in my driveway. Do we (Moomba) have one of those?

Any "Make sure you do this...." suggestions?


04-26-2007, 11:32 AM
First time out, back the boat in, keep it hooked up to the trailer, start it and check for any "leaks" i.e. a hose you may have missed.
Don't forget the heater hoses if you have a heater!

Boat Dog
04-26-2007, 12:22 PM
My buddy told me to look for a hose that I could attach to my garden hose to test the boat in my driveway. Do we (Moomba) have one of those?

That is the fresh water flush kit, it is an option.


04-26-2007, 01:04 PM
Here is my new season pm list (a compilation from all the manuals):


o Replace spark plugs
o Inspect spark plug wires
o Inspect distributor cap and rotor
o Inspect battery connections/fluid level
o Inspect/adjust belt
o Replace fuel filter
o Install new impeller
o Install drain plugs, reconnect hoses
o Clean flame arrestor
o Clean breather hose
o Replace PCV valve
o Check shaft alignment
o Inspect wakeplate system connections and fluid level
o Replace trailer wheel bearing oil
o Lubricate trailer jack
o Check trailer brake fluid level
o Check trailer tire pressure
o Inspect tower, racks, speakers, and audio connections
o Repair gelcoat if necessary
o Polish and wax
o Clean boat, 303 vinyl
o Put on water, check/adjust shaft packing

04-26-2007, 07:54 PM
Regarding leaving it on the trailer:

This is a good idea, but don't make the mistake I made last year. I left the rear tiedown straps on since I did not plan to launch, just wanted to make sure it started. The additional back pressure on the exhaust covers and/or in the exhaust system was enough to prevent the engine from starting.

So off to the dealer, who put a fake-a-lake on and it fired right up. Figured I was a real amature.

Bottom line. If leaving on trailer, disconnect rear tie-downs.

04-29-2007, 06:09 PM
Thanks for the hints/tips and the lists. I'll probably be back in the fall to get some more in depth info on some of the things I have no idea where they are located (wake plate fluid for example).

But the great news is that I put her in this morning and started her while still attached...and NO leaks :D Then I went out and rode like I hadn't just had 6 months off the water...my toeside W2W indy was even better than before...tramp work paid off.

Thanks again for the willingness of you guys to help out us newbies.