Tips for buying a Moomba

[OzarkCrew]

Hey guys - need some advice...The wife is wanting a boat and I ran across what I consider to be a decent deal on a 2000 Mobius V. I have always wanted a V-drive, but never been in a position of owning one until now.

My only boating experiences were growing up with 18 foot I/Os. However, I was never really involved in the maintenance of those boats, so my mechanical knowledge of boats in general is fairly rudimentary. I noticed there are a lot of good how-to's and maintenance threads on here, so I will be sure to check those out.

Anyway, what I am getting to is do you guys have any tips on buying an older used Moomba such as this one? Any known issues on these models to look for? Optional equipment that may raise or lower the value of the boat? Anything that would absolutely turn you off buying one? Etc. Etc.

It's a 20 year old boat, and I get that, so I know it won't be perfect. Just trying to make the most sound decision I can for the family and you guys seem to be the subject matter experts!

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Cheers!

[Turbinesurgeon]

Hey guys - need some advice...The wife is wanting a boat

!


Wow!! Wife wanting a boat. I think that may be the key to a long marriage[emoji2]

Seriously though. It would be wise to bring a mechanic friend to help inspect the boat prior to purchase. If the boat looks neglected then it probably is. I’m not afraid to buy a neglected boat but I expect to get them cheap. I also ask the owner a lot of questions to see how well they know the boat. I usually find people neglect their trailers too so don’t forget to take a good look at the trailer as well. A well kept boat can last many many years. I’m not familiar with any issues of that year but someone on this forum will chime in with more details.


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[rhouse181]

Don't blow your budget just on the purchase and go in with the expectation that you will incur additional expenses right out of the gate in order to get the boat water ready and use it immediately. There will be all the regular maintenance / consumables that will need replacement, as well as some unexpected issues that have been neglected by the previous owner. Your wife will soon come to hate the boat if you make her paddle back to dock a few times.

Make sure the current owner can put the boat in the water, fire her up, and let you drive. If not, then there is usually some significant issue that should be disclosed.

Never hurts to drop some coin on a pre-purchase inspection by a local boat shop that can give it a look over if you are not mechanically inclined, check compression, furnish you with an expensive list of everything that needs to be fixed, etc.

Focus on mechanical first until the boat / trailer is sorted, then make it pretty...

[sandm]

if it was me buying:
water test. water test. water test. I bought my '14 sight unseen in '18 and have bought/sold many cars over the interwebs in the last 14 years BUT they have all been fairly new rides. something this old I would not even begin to write a check without a water test.

granted it's 20 years old but no excuse for poor maintenance. if the boat interior is torn up, exterior is a mess or doesn't run right I'd walk away no matter how cheap. my experience has been you start on 1 repair and end up opening pandoras box every time you go to fix something. unlike cars boats are not cheap to fix. interior- unless you do it yourself that's 3-5k. exterior- a few gouges can top a grand easily at a good fiberglas shop and figure that again to wetsand and buff the gel. engines for these can be 3 or 4k for just a marine long block and installation is not cheap nor quick. at that age and pricepoint, it's like buying an old used car. options are not really going to raise or drop the sale price by an significant amount unless it's missing a trailer or tower. I've seen boats without ballast systems installed sell for more than boats with as you have a blank slate so I would not focus on option pricing, focus more on condition and know you may have to add things to get it where it fits your family needs.


good luck checking it out and hope it's all you want. post pics if you buy :)

[Branden967]

Sandm is spot on with everything.

Also really consider what your level of ability to make and necessary repairs yourself is. Boats aren't cheap in general, older boats require more maintenance. Weight the option on how much you want to wrench on it or if you arent comfortable with doing that. If your not comfortable with making that call maybe take it to a mechanic and have him check it out after the test drive?

[Shoebox]

This is long, but hopefully gives you some perspective on an older boat.

Definitely pay a shop for a pre-purchase inspection and do an on-water test. But even those 2 things won't guarantee you won't have pretty big problems.

My first boat (1992 Seaswirl Spyder i/o) I did both. They had to replace the impeller before completing the inspection (should have been a BIG red flag), but then told me it was good to go and they'd buy it at that price as well.

Then I went and did the on-water test. Ran out on the lake for about 5 minutes and back to the launch. Ran great, but that was not nearly enough.

First time out after purchase, ran at speed for about 15 minutes, then idled through a no-wake zone for about 10 minutes. Tried to throttle up on the other side, and wouldn't get to speed. I had to nurse it up to speed, but after that seemed to run well. Engine temp was about 180, which is normal for a car so I wasn't too worried.

Next time out, similar situation, but coming out of the no-wake, the boat just died. After 15 minutes finally got it started, went back to the marina to have lunch and let things cool off. After lunch, went to start and THUNK. Hydro-lock.

I was livid. Took it back to the shop that did the inspection. They suspected head gaskets from overheating. When they started looking closer at it, they said they saw evidence of overheating on the rear of the engine (wtf?! That's what I paid you to look for the first time!). Then they said the exhaust flappers were gone. They were going to replace the head gaskets and split the cost with me. $$$$

I started googling my issues, and found someone who had had the same experience, and it was the exhaust riser gaskets (way easier and cheaper to fix). So I suggested to the shop that they check those.

Turns out that was the problem. Once those were replaced, the boat ran flawlessly for me for the next 5 seasons until I sold it for more than I paid.

Long story short, make sure the shop looks EVERYWHERE for evidence of overheating because those repairs get expensive fast. And do a thorough, long water test with at least 10 minutes at speed and 10 minutes at idle.

[z28ke]

Agreed on the water test! I bought my first inboard in 2006 (1983 mastercraft Stars and Stripes) from out of state without a prior water test. Sounded great on the trailer, but got it home and on the water and she had a blown head gasket lol. Fortunately I was working as a mechanic at the time so I took the opportunity to freshen up the 351 (decked the heads, healthy cam, single plane intake, etc) and she ran like a scalded dog after that.

[OzarkCrew]

Thanks for all of the replies guys. I definitely plan on doing a water test. I will probably try to work an inspection time frame into the deal - the boat is about 4 hours away and I would like to bring it home and have a local mechanic check it out. Oh and definitely in writing. Had a buddy just a couple of years ago come to a verbal agreement on a houseboat for the inspection, 30 days. Well, one of the motors went out and the seller crawfished his way all the way back to the bank and said to get a lawyer! Poor guy..

I don't mind working on it, or spending money on it - to an extent. Just don't want to take it out 2 times and then have to replace the engine. That's really all I'm trying to do.

The seller has been really forthcoming with whatever information I've requested. Has a detailed list of all the pros and cons, upgrades, etc. of the exterior and interior of the boat. Doesn't mention much about the mechanical stuff, but he could just not know much about it. Take it to the mechanic a couple of times a year, lets him do his thing, and calls it good. We'll see.

I will for sure post some pics if/when I pick it up in a couple of weeks. Again, thanks for the help.

[sandm]

I will probably try to work an inspection time frame into the deal - the boat is about 4 hours away and I would like to bring it home and have a local mechanic check it out. Oh and definitely in writing.

good luck with that. no way I would ever let any motorized vehicle, or anything for that matter, leave my hands without cash in hand and an as is bill of sale.
wherever he lives, reach out to a boat dealer you like and pay the inspection fee and have him drop it off/pick it up. did this with a few cars I sold over the internet. buyer would tell me where and when and I would drop off and pick up. I never saw the results but never cared as I knew the condition. if he's serious about selling and you are the only guy on the hook he will drop it off. if he has a ton of interest someone will buy it without the inspection.

[OzarkCrew]

good luck with that. no way I would ever let any motorized vehicle, or anything for that matter, leave my hands without cash in hand and an as is bill of sale.
wherever he lives, reach out to a boat dealer you like and pay the inspection fee and have him drop it off/pick it up. did this with a few cars I sold over the internet. buyer would tell me where and when and I would drop off and pick up. I never saw the results but never cared as I knew the condition. if he's serious about selling and you are the only guy on the hook he will drop it off. if he has a ton of interest someone will buy it without the inspection.

That's not a bad idea. I may do some research on some dealers around there...I think I have built up enough rapport with him that we can adjust that "AS-IS" part of the deal if needed. I will report back with what ends up happening. Thanks for the reply.