Audio upgrade

[web]

I'm look to replace 4 in-boat speakers with 45KX654 (65 watt RMS ,195 Peak) Looking for the right amp? And add 2 tower 45KMTC 8 9150 watt RMS 300 peak)tower speakers Looking for right amp. I want to control volume separately.

Help from the Audio Gods needed!

[BrentC5Z]

Do you have a budget for this?
Controlling the volume separately could cost more than some of the less expensive amps if you go with a WS 420. Or you can pick up something like this: https://www.overtons.com/roswell-dual-zone-volume-control-330062.html?CAWELAID=120071730000168322&s_kwcid=adwords__&gclid=CjwKCAjwzPXlBRAjEiwAj_XTEXcuGr9JQPHjZEkvuPar IYcyIeVeAJUsqvVaN0BVq86BYhYZpLMv8RoCmGoQAvD_BwE

For simplicity, I'd recommend a 6 channel amp. This could potentially save money on install cabling as well. Kicker has one for $400.

https://creativeaudio.net/categories/marine-powersports/amplifiers/6-channel.html

[MLA]

45KMTC 8 9150

Can you clarify which? 8" coaxial or 9" HLCD"

[web]

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20645KMTC8/Kicker-45KMTC8-Charcoal-Black.html

MLA, here is the link

[MLA]

Kicker KXMA800.8 or Wet Sounds HTX-6 would be go-to's.

A couple of basic line level control knobs would give you tower and in-boats volume. The WS-420 SQ or BT would give you 3 zone level control, so you are setup for adding a woofer later.

[web]

Sorry for sounding dumb but would I wire the 4 in boat speakers to outputs/Channels one and two and bridge the towers to the other outputs

[MLA]

It would be a little different configuration between a 6 and 8 chnl.

[BrentC5Z]

Using a 6 channel amp for 6 speakers would be 1:1. If you choose the 8 channel listed, I would run channels 1-4 direct to the in-boat speakers and bridge 5/6 & 7/8 for each tower speaker.

Using the knob listed in my first post inline between the head unit and amp would allow you to adjust the gain between in-boat & tower speakers.

Like everything else, it's budget dependent.

[MLA]

With a 6 chnl like the HTX-6, id still bridge the tower pods, then run a pair of in-boats per chnl, on the remaining 2 chnls. Only a 75W rms difference to each in-boat, but a very noticeable different to the tower between 100W rms and a 300W rms potential when bridged.

[web]

Thanks guys will be ordering this weekend. I have about two grand to play with and want to get the bang for the buck. I don't have plans for a sub yet but may throw that in the deal.

[philwsailz]

Kicker KXMA800.8 or Wet Sounds HTX-6 would be go-to's.

A couple of basic line level control knobs would give you tower and in-boats volume. The WS-420 SQ or BT would give you 3 zone level control, so you are setup for adding a woofer later.

I agree with MLA on the recommendation of the KXMA8008. you can use AMP1 and AMP2 to run the 4 in-boat speakers. Then you can use AMP3 and AMP 4 in bridge mode to drive the two tower speakers. This setup will deliver basically perfect RMS power to all speakers. Then to add to the recommendation, you can use the FRONT fader output of your head unit to control level of the in-boat speakers and REAR fader output to drive the tower speakers. This way you can control the two areas independently without the need and added cost of an outboard volume control.

Phil
Kicker