z28ke
04-20-2019, 10:02 AM
I redid some switch wiring on my boat and figured this might help others, and I’m guessing this is probably the case for other 2018 models with the same switch setup, and possible other years as well. The indicator on the back of each switch plate did correspond with the correct circuit, which I verified by chasing the power wires back to the breakers (some physically, others using the circuit tester on my multimeter). Of course some of mine are different now but this is how it came from the factory.
From left to right:
*Heater - 15amp (3 position switch)
*Tower Lights - 5amp (power feed/breaker shared with courtesy lights)
*Underwater Lights - 3amp
*Docking Lights - 10amp
*Courtesy Lights - 5amp (power feed/breaker shared with tower lights)
*Nav/Anchor (3 position switch)
*Bilge
Btw I found the easiest way to remove the rubber retaining nut/gasket on each switch without damaging it is with a 5/8” 12 point closed end wrench.
Hope this info helps
From left to right:
*Heater - 15amp (3 position switch)
*Tower Lights - 5amp (power feed/breaker shared with courtesy lights)
*Underwater Lights - 3amp
*Docking Lights - 10amp
*Courtesy Lights - 5amp (power feed/breaker shared with tower lights)
*Nav/Anchor (3 position switch)
*Bilge
Btw I found the easiest way to remove the rubber retaining nut/gasket on each switch without damaging it is with a 5/8” 12 point closed end wrench.
Hope this info helps