View Full Version : New rebuilt motor not getting any spark .

07-23-2018, 02:00 AM
Okay so to start off i was stupid/busy enough to not winterize my boat. Cracked the block and both heads. got a rebuilt motor and put all my other parts on it. Now I'm not getting no spark from my coil. I've replaced the cap. Button. Control module. Spark plugs. Etc. Still no spark. Someone please help !!!

07-23-2018, 09:50 AM
Somewhere either a breaker is tripped or you forgot to reconnect a wire, or reconnected it to the wrong position.

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07-23-2018, 11:24 AM
So im guessing this is distributor engine with traditional external coil? Electronic ignition module in the distributor?

Is the distributor turning? Voltage to the coil and ignition module?

07-23-2018, 08:02 PM
Yes sir I think you are correct. It is a 08 outback with the 325 assault motor. 350 vortec basically. Fuel injected. I have not had a way to check the voltage yet but I will try when it stops flooding here at lake tillery. Distributor is turning .

07-23-2018, 08:04 PM
Can you explain where I can find all the breakers ? And I've double checked everything to do with plugging it all back up. Can someone tell me the correct ground locations? Just so I can double check to make sure I have them in the right spot.

07-24-2018, 08:27 AM
How have you checked for spark. Another guy did the same thing as you recently and replaced the motor and claimed not spark, but it turned out his distributor was way off and actually sparking at the wrong time. Did you hold a plug up against the block to verify you are getting no spark whatsoever?

07-24-2018, 09:08 AM
The first step is to determine if it’s a spark, fuel, or compression problem.

Remove a plug wire, insert a Phillips screwdriver or spare plug piece of bare wire into the plug wire boot and place the end near the engine block (do not hold the plug wire while cranking the engine unless you want a shocking experience).

If there’s a spark when the engine is cranked, it has ignition.

The problem is either fuel or compression.

Listen for the electric fuel pump to make a buzzing noise when the ignition is turned on.

You won’t hear anything if the pump has died. You can also check Fuel rail Pressure, then releave all the pressure turn on the ignition and the pressure should return. Once the fuel rail pressurizes and you cycle the ignition on and off, the pump wont run, it only comes on to pressurize the rail until the ECM verifies you have spark.
If the problem is no spark, anything in the ignition circuit that creates the spark may be at fault.

Use a DVM to check RPM signal from the Crankshaft Position sensor while cranking the engine. A bad Crankshaft Position sensor is a common cause of no starts. The signal from this sensor goes to the PCM or ignition module that switches the ignition coil on and off.

If you have an RPM signal, a bad ignition module or PCM may not be switching the coil on and off.

Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the coils with the key on and while cranking the engine. The voltage should be switching on and off. In ignition systems with a single coil and distributor, a bad coil or a cracked distributor cap or rotor can prevent the spark plugs from firing.

07-25-2018, 05:51 AM
Stazi.. yes sir I did and still getting nothing at all. I've took the coil to cap wire loose from the cap end and held it close to the ground also. Nothing at all.

07-26-2018, 06:14 PM
So now you need to check for power to the coil. If you have no power there when on trace that wire back to the next connection.

07-27-2018, 02:48 AM
I've checked all of the wiring connections besides grounds. Coil and ignition 12.04 , distributor 5.04. Timing cover wire 5.04 also. 12 v from the wire from coil to dist. But no spark at all. Also now my stupid ass was working with a flashlight by myself and somehow made the mistake of putting the positive on the negative and got a poping noise from the alternator and a good bit of smoke within 2 to 4 seconds. Now even when I try to connect the battery terminals the right way the alternator starts smoking instantly. Guessing I fried it right? Any other issues I may have just caused? Or just throw a new alternator on it ? Can anyone tell me the part number ?

07-27-2018, 07:22 AM
Alternator is definitely fired. Internally there is now a permanent short and thats why its smoking and popping its basically welding its self internally.

Right now you probably only burned the alternator.