06 outback V new block no spark from dist to plugs

[Ceetpeet]

I just bought an outback v with a cracked block although before I Removef the old engine I did start it up and everything worked absolutely fine from electrical standpoint.

Now that I put all the old parts and wires On the new Longblock I’m getting error code number one On the dash when I turn the key on and when I turn the engine over I’m getting spark to the distributor but not to any of the plugs
Please oh please help

[Stazi]

I just bought an outback v with a cracked block although before I Removef the old engine I did start it up and everything worked absolutely fine from electrical standpoint.

Now that I put all the old parts and wires On the new Longblock I’m getting error code number one On the dash when I turn the key on and when I turn the engine over I’m getting spark to the distributor but not to any of the plugs
Please oh please help

So the coil is positively feeding the distributor but you have no spark? You confirmed this? Ummmm, any chance you left the rotor out or it’s toasted?


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[Ceetpeet]

When I pull the wire off of the ignition coil and try to start the engine I can see a spark coming out and I’ve tried 2 distributors just to make sure

[Stazi]

How are you seeing the spark, hold a gap to the engine block?

Also when connected to the distributor and you pull a spark plug and ground it to the block you then get no spark?

Here's a link to Indmar error codes. I do not see a "1" for the DTC. How are you reading this code? Are you just getting a single light flash?
https://www.bakesonline.com/images/MediaLibrary/IndmarDiagnosticTroubleCodes.pdf

[Ceetpeet]

First of all thank you very much for helping out, when I pull the wire off from the ignition coil to the distributor and crank it over I can see a spark coming out of the plastic connector on the coil.and correct I’m getting no spark to any of the plugs at all.even if I pour gas into the intake and crank it over I’m getting absolutely nothing.and on the dash where it typically flashes the hours on the boat it just says error 1

[Stazi]

First of all thank you very much for helping out, when I pull the wire off from the ignition coil to the distributor and crank it over I can see a spark coming out of the plastic connector on the coil.and correct I’m getting no spark to any of the plugs at all.even if I pour gas into the intake and crank it over I’m getting absolutely nothing.and on the dash where it typically flashes the hours on the boat it just says error 1

Have you pulled a spark plug, kept it in a plug lead, held it to the block and checked to see that there is really no spark at that plug? Sorry for the repetitive questions, but you did not answer this question specifically when I asked before. For there to be spark at the coil wire feeding the distributor and then none from the distributor to the block is bizarre. If the spark can make it to the distributor and then stops there, would make me think that the block is either not grounded or the rotor is missing from the distributor. I’m not sure what else could interrupt that circuit. How are you seeing a spark from the coil wire? What did you ground it to, in order to see the arc?

Also, is the brush from the center post of the distributor cap making contact with the rotor?


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[Ceetpeet]

I will double check these things in just a couple of hours and get back to you.thanks again

[Stazi]

Please get back to us if you figure it out. Helps to have this kind of info recorded on the forum for other people that may run into similar issues in the future


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[Ceetpeet]

I will for sure. I got hijacked by my wife and won’t get to tinker on it till tomorrow

[Ceetpeet]

UPDATE
so it turns out the DIST was way out of position, i had a mechanic get it in correctly.

So now I have spark and the engine is timed.

but it still won't run, if i put gas in the intake it will fire right up and run smooth. the fuel pump is priming, and theres fuel in the rails. but some how its not running.
is there a chance i have the injectors wiresin the wrong order?

also still getting ERROR 1 on the tach where the hours usually go

[Stazi]

UPDATE
so it turns out the DIST was way out of position, i had a mechanic get it in correctly.

So now I have spark and the engine is timed.

but it still won't run, if i put gas in the intake it will fire right up and run smooth. the fuel pump is priming, and theres fuel in the rails. but some how its not running.
is there a chance i have the injectors wiresin the wrong order?

also still getting ERROR 1 on the tach where the hours usually go

Possible, but usually the injector pigtails are very short and next to each injector, so I would think it would be hard to switch around. But maybe I’m wrong... is there anyway to get the harnesses switched from one side of the engine to the other?


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[Ceetpeet]

Your right , the pig tails are in the exact spot they should be in..... is there a way to test power to the injectors or the ground ?

[Ceetpeet]

I actually just tested the resistance of all the injector pigtails and they were all 13 and then I tested the volts o the injector wires with the key on and they all came up with 13.98

[Stazi]

I actually just tested the resistance of all the injector pigtails and they were all 13 and then I tested the volts o the injector wires with the key on and they all came up with 13.98

Sounds good then.


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[Edo88]

I actually just tested the resistance of all the injector pigtails and they were all 13 and then I tested the volts o the injector wires with the key on and they all came up with 13.98

Did you do a voltage drop or did you check available voltage. Also what was the voltage on the ground side


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[Ceetpeet]

Hey edo88,

I believe the voltage on the ground side was zero, How would I do a voltage drop test?

[Edo88]

Hey edo88,

I believe the voltage on the ground side was zero, How would I do a voltage drop test?

Reading above I see where you said you did this with the key on you need to be cranking the engine over while checking voltage to injectors

Easier way would be get a noid light kit and while your cranking it see if you can see the control module switching the ground on the injector for it to spray fuel. The signal is usually really fast and a dmm wont pick it up it’ll be a ground controlled signal so when you have the key on it’ll show battery voltage and once you crank the ecm switches ground and it’ll hit zero volts and repeat really fast.




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[Edo88]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/29c2f95432a4730ca6f62ce68b792adb.jpg

sorry for the crude drawing but it’s easier to show then explain it.

So if you wanted to check the ground side with the dmm just move the positive lead of your dmm to the negative side of the injector while your negative lead is still grounded. But again unless your using a high dollar fluke you might not see the signal change from on and off just beware.


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[Ceetpeet]

Thank you very much I will check it tonight.is there any way the throttle position sensor could have anything to do with this? It did get wet

[Edo88]

Well what did you find out


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[Ceetpeet]

I’m still lost. I have a mechanic looking at it right now.

[Stazi]

WTF?!


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[Ceetpeet]

So I tried to follow everyone’s instructions and keep troubleshooting it on my own but I feel like I got in over my head. It felt like I could have kept going on it for weeks without discovering the actual issue so I finally had to take it to a mechanic They should have it done in a week or so and I will definitely post what the problem was and what they did. I really appreciate you guys trying to help me though

[mmandley]

I think its a bad crank position sensor not giving the ECM the signal the engine is spinning and thus not turning on the coil.

I am curious to hear the outcome

[Edo88]

So I tried to follow everyone’s instructions and keep troubleshooting it on my own but I feel like I got in over my head. It felt like I could have kept going on it for weeks without discovering the actual issue so I finally had to take it to a mechanic They should have it done in a week or so and I will definitely post what the problem was and what they did. I really appreciate you guys trying to help me though

Yes please post what they find I am curious


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[Ceetpeet]

So you think the crank position sensor I bought at a auto parts store could be the problem? And that’s why I may not be getting any injector pulse

Does anybody know the part number for the Sierra part number and I will run out and get one

[mmandley]

You need to verify your getting a signal from that sensor when the engine is turning over.

Its not a common fail issue but its a big issue when you have Fuel, compression but no spark.

The basics of what happens in the start process is.

Turn Key on
Fuel pump primes
Checks Fuel rail pressure (EFI) Carb (NA)
Engages Starter
Looks for Crank Sensor Input
Then Send Pulse signal to Ignition
Engine Starts
Looks for Oil Pressure


When the engine cranks if it doesn't see the crank pulse it wont engage the ignition because it doesn't know where #1 is at to fire the engine.

If you have a Pulse signal from the CPS then you need to move to the ECM make sure it sees the Pulse signal.
If it sees the pulse signal then move to the Coil
Same checks
Does it see the signal
Are you getting any spark
If not then Move to the Cap, Rotor, Wires Plugs.

Try to just think of how the Signal Starts and Trace it through all the wires. Someplace in that line is the issue.

[Ceetpeet]

thanks I will start checking those things tonight.

one update is the dealer I got it back from did put the scanner on for a second, its showing a pedal position sensor error. is that up by the throttle lever?
Also, if its not timed right could the cam sensor in the dist be causing this no injector pulse issue?

[mmandley]

thanks I will start checking those things tonight.

one update is the dealer I got it back from did put the scanner on for a second, its showing a pedal position sensor error. is that up by the throttle lever?
Also, if its not timed right could the cam sensor in the dist be causing this no injector pulse issue?

Pedal position error would be pointing to the Throttle Position Sensor on the side of the throttle body. This could also be pointing to the Neutral switch on your throttle, if the boat doesn't think its in neutral it wont start, but Also it shouldn't crank at all.

No timing that you adjust does not effect the CPS because its reading right from your Crank, its normally located down by the Harmonic balancer. If they build the engine out of time, like installing the main timing chain on the cam and crank wrong then you would still have issues starting but the sensor would still pulse.

[Ceetpeet]

I did replace the TPS , And no change. The crank position sensor seems to be functioning just because if I start the engine using carb cleaner the tachometer bumps up to exactly where it should be. Still getting error message where the hours usually read And no injector pulse.but the fuel pump is priming when I turn the key on

[Ceetpeet]

Update
So it turns out I forgot to install the reluctor wheel

[Stazi]

Update
So it turns out I forgot to install the reluctor wheel

https://media.giphy.com/media/xT5LMWJSXHRbSusYve/giphy.gif


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[aerolland]

Is it possible to remove it without a torch?!? How are you going to reinstall it and get the timing correct?

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[Ceetpeet]

New update :
Reluctor wheel was there :-(
Turns Out this whole time it was water in the fuel tank.

[Stazi]

New update :
Reluctor wheel was there :-(
Turns Out this whole time it was water in the fuel tank.

Fire the mechanic. Crikey Moses!


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[aerolland]

Wow... I thought you were NOT getting spark???

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[Ceetpeet]

The distributor was in so wrong that I wasn’t originally getting spark but damn I had no injector because it was injecting water down gasoline