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View Full Version : Need help Got water locked on 2 cylinders after flaps failed 01 mobius v



wiker5
06-12-2018, 08:43 PM
01 Mobius V with the 350 indimar(chevy) carb

All my issues have stemmed from once incident, I was out and the ignition wire fell off(has to mess with it a few days before at the dock). At the time I didn't have exhaust flaps, they showed up the next day. So when I stalled when the ignition wire fell off water was sucked into 2 cylinders. The engine was in lock, at this time I thought it was the starter, got it rebuilt, reinstalled and found it wasn't the started. I pulled the plugs and found water in 2 cylinder on opposite sides of the motor (#1 on port, #4 on starboard). Pissed the water out, oiled the cylinders, and replaced all plugs. Motor now runs, it starts hard cold and warm, but will idle slightly rough at 700-800 rpm. I took it out for a spin and can only do maybe 25-30ish MPH and only get to 3500 RPM compared to 4500 plus. The boat also lacks the punch it used to have when you drop the throttle, and even after its warm you must advance the throttle to start it, this was never a problem before. It also smells slightly of gas when running, but no visible signs of leaking. It does idle once warm.

What is everyone's guess? Or places to start.... I'm thinking compression test to rule out a bent valve. Its not the throttle cable I checked, that would just turn up or down the idle. Any other ideas of places to look or ideas? I just pray I don't have to pull the heads and deal with that but looking that way.

Thanks, had a great year started, always remember to check your exhaust flaps, the boat was new to me and I was so excited to put it in the water I didn't order them soon enough.

Broke Pilot
06-12-2018, 08:49 PM
If you tried to start it with the cylinders full of water you may have bent a connecting rod. You’d have 2 cylinders with lower compression to explain the power loss and rough idle.
That would be my initial guess

wiker5
06-13-2018, 09:37 AM
Wouldn't that make the engine tap not lose power?

larry_arizona
06-13-2018, 02:26 PM
Bent rod will cause power loss


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Edo88
06-13-2018, 02:30 PM
The rod travel won’t be the same cause loss of compression loss of power


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DOCDRS
06-14-2018, 01:00 PM
Have you ever looked at the water flow in these motors? I fail to understand how you can suck water into the cylinders on a v drive even without flaps. Rusted or Cracked exhaust manifold, improper winterization, head gasket seem more likely to me. Looks like you got the boat last fall. Did you do the winterization? How many hours have you put on it this year? Why were your messing around with the ignition wires in the first place? Just trying to gather all pertinent information. If you bent the rod like above, the cylinder walls will be scored to crap by now with wrist pin angles changed

wiker5
06-17-2018, 09:14 PM
Update, looked everything over. I did have water in the oil, but the real issue was when the plug wires were put back on incorrectly. I checked a diagram and found this was the issue causing the loss of power and gas smell. As for the water in the oil this was expected because water got in the motor. I changed the oil 4 times until the milklyness came out and took it for a ride. No further milkyness, telling me no bent valve, rod or head gasket. Changed the oil 3 more times over the next day each time a longer and longer ride, the last I put 4 Hrs on Saturday. Oil is still clean, I dodged a huge bullet here.

DOCDRS- I put 20 hrs on already this year with no problems. Yes winterization (in Maine definitely needed!), Originally messed around with the ignition wire because the starter selonoid was going (replaced in this ordeal) and the female end was night tight on the male connector (I've fixed).
I don't believe it sucked water in, but as the engine stalled at speed the wave blew water in and while it was stalled there was no exhaust flow to push the water out.

My only issue now is after running and warm if I turn the boat off I need to advance the throttle to restart then can jump back to idle. Before I could just start in neutral after it was warm. Maybe it will shake it, I will replace spark plugs again. Currently running a little seafoam in oil before I change it again tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advice and imput, like I said dodged a bullet, check your exhaust flaps!

larry_arizona
06-17-2018, 09:43 PM
Glad it was operator error. Pride is easier to fix than rebuilding an engine.



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mikepo26
06-17-2018, 10:12 PM
so i am in nh and yes winter prep is huge, as for your engine, start with compression and leak down , i do not understand how water got into the oil but its 2 different sealed systems so be careful

DOCDRS
06-22-2018, 05:19 PM
I am glad it all worked out, I guess you can get water from the exhaust into the cylinders under the right conditions.........still baffles me but it seems to be the only logical way if all is good. keep up posted if things stay good or change.

wiker5
06-25-2018, 10:03 PM
Ran the boat hard all weekend. Thing is running great with no water in the oil, motor is smoother than before and has great power.

My only issue still is the hard starting without advancing the throttle. I've believe it is either carb adjustment or another recommendation was my timing could be slightly off. I'm in the process of finding someone to adjust the carb, I seem to be missing a adjustment screw on one side. Another possibility is the auto choke is not working, I need to get a tester down and will check tomorrow.

Thanks for the interest and help!

bergermaister
06-26-2018, 09:42 AM
Glad to hear you're almost back to normal. Damn carburetors. So glad I have the TBI setup!