New to the forum. Huge issues ?? Someone please help asap it's too hot to be on dry l

[Gajones420]

Okay so to start off I'm from Pageland sc. I have a 2008 outback with the 325 indmar assault. First mistake...i did not winterize...i know...stupid stupid stupid !! Well I did take the plugs out of the block atleast. Soo last week I got it out drained the oil ( oil was normal and black no water at all) changed the plugs, put the block plugs back in and wanted to make sure it was going to run good so I looked up how people have ran them with a garden hose with a valve so they get the adequate amount of water. Didn't have much time and it was midnight i figured put the garden hose inside the water pump hose...clamp it tight and turn the water on. So as soon as I turned the water on and crunk it up everything was fine. About 90 seconds later it started missing a little and then water shoots out of the throttle body!! So I cut it straught off knowing something was bad wrong and opened the oil cap! You can guess it....valve covers packed to the top with a really really thick really bright white caulking looking substance. Not milky like a normal head gasket! Pure white super thick gunk. Tried getting it all out but it is so thick it's hard to suck out. I've gotten atleast two 5 gallon buckets of thick white gunk out trying to flush it all but I have the oil filter off and ignition coil unplugged so it won't crank and it just keeps pushing tons of the thick white gunk out. Of course everybody that I've asked about it says blowed head or cracked block but there was no water at all in the oil when I drained it before I started it for the first time. I'm really praying that someone is going to tell me I forced too much water to it somehow but a few people have said that's not possible. But thinking about the people's garden hose rig needing the valve for the adequate amount of water, gives me a little hope on that end. Somebody please please help me out.

[Stazi]

Okay so to start off I'm from Pageland sc. I have a 2008 outback with the 325 indmar assault. First mistake...i did not winterize...i know...stupid stupid stupid !! Well I did take the plugs out of the block atleast. Soo last week I got it out drained the oil ( oil was normal and black no water at all) changed the plugs, put the block plugs back in and wanted to make sure it was going to run good so I looked up how people have ran them with a garden hose with a valve so they get the adequate amount of water. Didn't have much time and it was midnight i figured put the garden hose inside the water pump hose...clamp it tight and turn the water on. So as soon as I turned the water on and crunk it up everything was fine. About 90 seconds later it started missing a little and then water shoots out of the throttle body!! So I cut it straught off knowing something was bad wrong and opened the oil cap! You can guess it....valve covers packed to the top with a really really thick really bright white caulking looking substance. Not milky like a normal head gasket! Pure white super thick gunk. Tried getting it all out but it is so thick it's hard to suck out. I've gotten atleast two 5 gallon buckets of thick white gunk out trying to flush it all but I have the oil filter off and ignition coil unplugged so it won't crank and it just keeps pushing tons of the thick white gunk out. Of course everybody that I've asked about it says blowed head or cracked block but there was no water at all in the oil when I drained it before I started it for the first time. I'm really praying that someone is going to tell me I forced too much water to it somehow but a few people have said that's not possible. But thinking about the people's garden hose rig needing the valve for the adequate amount of water, gives me a little hope on that end. Somebody please please help me out.

Sorry bud, that block is trashed. Text book cracked block allowing water to
mix with the oil. And the fact that you got water to come out of the throttlebody means you completely filled that engine with water and probably bent who knows how many conrods.

Just because there was none visible before doesn’t mean diddly.

Your mistake in not winterizing it cost you big time.

Start looking for a new engine block and swap out all the parts INCLUDING the cam!

Best of luck. Bet you won’t make that mistake again!

I don’t understand why people skimp on winterizing. The risk isn’t worth the gamble.....or the repercussions.


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[larry_arizona]

My guess is cracked water jacket below the cylinders. If it was cracked above, you would have hydro locked it.

You filled water into crankcase where the crank whipped up a oily water foam.

It must have frozen over winter.




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[larry_arizona]

Water through the throttle body could have come through the PCV.


https://www.bakesonline.com/indmar-marine-5-7-litre-new-long-block-engine.html

You don’t need a long block but I could not find a Marine short block.

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[Gajones420]

Thanks for the replies...Not good news for me. So there is no way to push water into the motor by pressureizing the water into it vs. Letting it take the water in as it needs ? And it actually isn't a foamy or milky white paste it's super thick like caulk. And is there anyway to test the block at all? And a cracked block would get that much water into the motor running that short of time with clean water pouring out of the exhaust ? No smoke or anything. Everything seemed 100 percent for the first 60 secs. Also can someone explain to me how the blocked could have cracked with the plugs out of it? Not spark plugs. There was a small plug on each side towards the bottom. Why do people say you need a garden hose valve to restrict it to an adequate amount of water ? Can anyone tell me the volume of water the pump actually gives the motor ? And these still have a thermostat correct?

[Gajones420]

Where is the pcv? And if it did come thru it does it mean the block is still shot ? It will still crank

[parrothd]

You didn't drain the water from the risers, you only drained the water from the lower block.

[DOCDRS]

You didn't drain the water from the risers, you only drained the water from the lower block.

Thats assuming all the water came out of the block and it wasnt obstructed by rust deposits. Most of the water will bypass the block untill the tstat opens thus clear water coming out of the exhaust. As water enters the cylinders from the cracked exhaust manifolds and into the intake manifolds and then out the throttle body. Your block maybe ok. Block off the exhaust hoses and pressure test the block. Fwiw

[Ryann]

Sorry to hear that. I’ve had the exact same thing happen to my old 92 Supra. 351 Windsor motor. After tear down I found a cracked cylinder wall. These things have to be winterized properly and it’s good to keep them plugged in with a heater if you only have occasional cold weeks.

Take this moment to get a motor that’s 100% and will last for the long run. For me, I found a donor block for a car motor as they were identical back then. I did a rebuilt myself and worked with a local machine shop on every single internal part that was reused. Magnaflux everything. It was cheap but the rebuilt takes time to do right and a lot of patience. I did a rebuild as a college kid in a dusty shop for under $1,200. If I can do it, anyone can.

If you can tear it out yourself, rip out the motor and take it to a shop that can rebuild it with a new block and have them go through the heads to check for cracks. I bet it can be done for under 3k. A new marine motor can run a good 10k.

[aerolland]

I feel your pain and understand the hope for the 'what else can it be' questions. Block is trashed, I'll put my $1 on it. Happened to me in a prior to Moomba days, had to pull motor and rebuild with donor long block. If you do, make sure you get matching marine specs, i.e. 4 bolt mains, spark proof everything, etc.

https://i.imgur.com/qpMTU13l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cxubRWxl.jpg

Pulling an boat motor without a high bay garage is a pain by the way... will be better on a smaller (not as tall) boat though.

https://i.imgur.com/6e8OoNAl.jpg

[Gajones420]

Thats assuming all the water came out of the block and it wasnt obstructed by rust deposits. Most of the water will bypass the block untill the tstat opens thus clear water coming out of the exhaust. As water enters the cylinders from the cracked exhaust manifolds and into the intake manifolds and then out the throttle body. Your block maybe ok. Block off the exhaust hoses and pressure test the block. Fwiw

I'm praying on this block forsure ! I can not believe I was really that stupid to not winterize it like I was suppose to :( I bet I know one thing I'll be doing at the end of the summer this year ! Lol can you explain to me exactly what I need to do to test the block? Can I do it just like it sits? Full of gunk ? Or do I have to clean the whole thing out before I test the block?

[Gajones420]

Thats assuming all the water came out of the block and it wasnt obstructed by rust deposits. Most of the water will bypass the block untill the tstat opens thus clear water coming out of the exhaust. As water enters the cylinders from the cracked exhaust manifolds and into the intake manifolds and then out the throttle body. Your block maybe ok. Block off the exhaust hoses and pressure test the block. Fwiw

Can someone please tell me step by step on how to pressure test the block?

[aerolland]

Can someone please tell me step by step on how to pressure test the block?

Honestly if it were me I would simply start dismantling the engine - your block is almost definitely cracked. But that said, doing a quick Google search leads to the same result - there is no good way to 'quickly' pressure test a block. You are needing to pressure the the water jacket and not the cylinders. If you insist, start by plugging the the water hoses (inlets and outlets) Make up a plumbing pressure test setup, which is a schrader (tire type air valve) and a pressure gauge. Pressurize to 40-50 psi-ish, if the pressure goes down there is a leak. Make sure all the freeze plugs are in place! If you have a slow leak, spray the freeze plugs with a soapy solution to see if you get bubbles around them - if so, remove them and replace with new (but the way you described the failure, I doubt this is your problem)


Disassembly is not that bad, remember I've done exactly as you are needing. Is it a direct drive? If so, remove the clamshell cover and lay out two furniture pads on either side of the motor to protect the interior of the boat and start by removing the exhaust risers, manifolds and jackets. Then remove the carb/throttle body and then the intake runners. You will most likely see your crack at this point in the valley - if not, remove the heads and look at the water jackets around each cylinder.

If it's a V-drive, then it gets a bit tighter to work on, but similar steps - remove engine/locker dividers then follow the above steps simply working in the rear lockers.

Worst case scenario is you have to pull the motor and without the heads and exhaust system it will be that much lighter to deal with. Good luck, PM me if you want to talk about it further over the phone, maybe I can help walk you through it.