Bag vent install question

[JamesEvans]

I am in the process of installing vents and tying them to the drain lines on my 05 LSV. Do I have to run hose all the way to the thru hull or can I tee or y in at any point in the drain line?

I have already crossed my left bag to the right side. I am setting it up so all my drains/vents are on the same "drivers" side of boat for visual reasons. I have check valves and plenty of hose just trying to do a little less work if I can.

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[parrothd]

I wouldn't, you could end up filling both bags when you only want one.

[Hayden]

James, not an answer to your question but we have the same boat and you list two spare 260# bags in your sig so....

One adjustment we made with ours was adding a 2x10 piece of wood just in front of the battery compartment, directly behind the port bow seat. It fits perfectly. This allowed us to keep the stock 260# bags and just keep them permanently filled under the front seats. We found it's been the cheapest hack for an IBS bag considering the lack of space 2005 has for ballast in the bow.

26929

Not sure how to prevent the picture from being so heavily downscaled but green line is the 2x10, red boxes are the bags.

[JamesEvans]

I wouldn't, you could end up filling both bags when you only want one.I think My post might have been misunderstood. I am going to tee in the vent to the bag drain on each specific bag. No connections bag to bag will be shared. Ie left rear bag vent to left rear bag drain to thru hull.

I just need to know if I have to run hose and T it in right at the thru hull or if I can Y it in to the drain line anywhere after the drain pump.

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[JamesEvans]

James, not an answer to your question but we have the same boat and you list two spare 260# bags in your sig so....

One adjustment we made with ours was adding a 2x10 piece of wood just in front of the battery compartment, directly behind the port bow seat. It fits perfectly. This allowed us to keep the stock 260# bags and just keep them permanently filled under the front seats. We found it's been the cheapest hack for an IBS bag considering the lack of space 2005 has for ballast in the bow.

26929

Not sure how to prevent the picture from being so heavily downscaled but green line is the 2x10, red boxes are the bags.I was planning on repurposing those bags up their in that spot, and plumbing them in (future project). I have a pitch over the side pump from wakemakers I plan to use for the time being.
I may have to move my Amp rack, as it is laid flat in there but raised up off the floor, that's why it's a future project. See pic
The 2x board is a great idea/hack! I am definitely going to use it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/90c1b698ca446d0531ee1cc116401043.jpg

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[KnoxMojo]

May I ask what the purpose of this vent is for? Like for overflow to make sure there is not any air in the bag? If so, tee it off and use that check valve to keep from introducing air in to the bag.

[JamesEvans]

May I ask what the purpose of this vent is for? Like for overflow to make sure there is not any air in the bag? If so, tee it off and use that check valve to keep from introducing air in to the bag.Exactly. To vent the bag automatically without having to burp it. I understand how to install the check valve, just not sure where to tie it into the drain line. The check is there to keep the drain from pushing water back into the bag when draining, and to keep it from sucking thru the vent on the bag. In other words, it will only let water out, not in the bag.

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[KnoxMojo]

Yeah, I installed check valves on my boat. I am not familiar with the Gravity Games setup. Is it one pump in and another pump out? Can you take a photo of the bag and show how your plumbing is now? I am assuming it drains the bag over board? If you have 2 fittings on top of the bag, run a fitting from the top, over to the drain hose and tee it off. On the hose below the tee to the new vent fitting, use the check valve. That should get you where you want to be.

[MLA]

right at the outlet thru-hull

[trayson]

Yes, you can Tee into the drain line if you have a check valve. Sounds like MLA recommends doing it near the thru hull. I have separate drain and vent lines and have them both setup for above water line draining. I really like the audible/visual indicator when things are draining or done.

I didn't care about extra thru hulls through. My boat looks like swiss cheese, LOL. I think if you circle around my boat you'll find 10 total vent or drain thru-hulls. They're all black and dont' stand out at all.

[jmvotto]

May I ask what the purpose of this vent is for? Like for overflow to make sure there is not any air in the bag? If so, tee it off and use that check valve to keep from introducing air in to the bag.


This and closest to the thru hull to mount the TEE or WYE

[JamesEvans]

Got 1 vent installed on rear left bag. In testing it didn't work correctly.

I installed it in the fitting closest to the bow on the boat. Check valve is facing the correct way. Moved the drain hose up higher and to the right side of boat. So my vent/drain line is on the opposite side of the boat in relevance to the bag (bag on left side of boat, vent/drain thru hull on the left) However when the bag got close to full, it still relieved itself out of the drain just like it is set up from the factory before the vent line started to relieve. It did suck down completely flat when drained, I was happy about that.

The problem with this is the bag will passive drain thru the aerator pump till it levels itself out. The test was performed on the trailer in the drive, not in the real world, with the boat in the water listing.

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[trayson]

I have drain lines on my rear bags that are routed to the opposite sides. It minimizes most of my passive draining as I run listed.

On the front bag, I was getting problems with passive FILLING also but I remedied that with a Vented Loop. They make one that's WAYYY cheaper than the one wakemakers sells and it works great. I have zero passive FILLING on my front bag that's under my playpen bow.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Five-Oceans-Outlet-Vented-Loop-1-BC-2421/281484478701?epid=1134429498&hash=item4189c848ed:g:1WEAAOSwyTZUVPtV&vxp=mtr

So it's possible that these could be a solution to your issue? They're cheap at $10, so it's not a big loss if they don't work...

[MLA]

What ever the lowest point is in the plumbing, is where the water is going to go. In this case, its the drain pump outlet sound lower then the filled sac. Water will reach they level and start to passive drain.

If you are listing the boat, crossing the drain works. If weighted evenly, it wont help. We've had some success with a check valve in the drain line. Extending/rerouting the drain to get it higher then sac, can help. Worst case, a check valve with a spring loaded plunger should completely stop the passive flow.

[trayson]

What ever the lowest point is in the plumbing, is where the water is going to go. In this case, its the drain pump outlet sound lower then the filled sac. Water will reach they level and start to passive drain.

If you are listing the boat, crossing the drain works. If weighted evenly, it wont help. We've had some success with a check valve in the drain line. Extending/rerouting the drain to get it higher then sac, can help. Worst case, a check valve with a spring loaded plunger should completely stop the passive flow.

If a vented loop stops passive filling, why wouldn't it stop passive draining?

[MLA]

If a vented loop stops passive filling, why wouldn't it stop passive draining?

A vented loop on the fill line, we are almost always locating the loop higher then fill pump. In a lot of cases, the setup is used with tanks, so the loop is even higher then the tank. In the vent or drain scenario, its almost impossible to get the loop high enough to be effective, when we are using tall sacs.