FAE Install Pics

[corvette8189]

Posted on the Facebook Page and figured id post it here as well.
I'm a dealer for FAE so if you have any questions or would like to purchase one just send me a message.

Start off with removing the stock flapper and 4 screws that hold the through hull connection together.
https://i.imgur.com/9OyDZLx.jpg

Then undo the 2 clamps on the inside
https://i.imgur.com/TFvYl5y.jpg

Next takes some patience to get the through hole connection off. I used the debond I got with the install kit and a putty knife to help get it loose then used the shims and a mallet. Grabbed it with some pliers and moved it left, right, up, and down and hit the shims in more.
https://i.imgur.com/HIsxoQ1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eG3Ppkh.jpg

[corvette8189]

https://i.imgur.com/v1rPmRN.jpg

Then scrape all the access sealant off
https://i.imgur.com/exvR7Vl.jpg

Next is changing the baffle if you choose to do so.
https://i.imgur.com/5xJNeVR.jpg
Undo these 4 clamps and have a person on the outside pull the hose with some pliers out of the exhaust outlet of the boat.
Inside use a long skinny flat head screwdriver to help separate the hose from the pipe.
https://i.imgur.com/0JvLFkM.jpg

[corvette8189]

Restrictive Baffle on the right.
https://i.imgur.com/6EG32j7.jpg
Reverse order going back together.

Then the nervous part drilling into your expensive boat. Start in reverse to minimize chipping.
Line up the diagram and drill away.
https://i.imgur.com/O1iR0MF.jpg

Then put a bunch of sealant on the FAE and put it on.
Internal Flapper showed below.
https://i.imgur.com/LmmQGYN.jpg

Install the provided washers and bolts and tighten her down. Then reinstall the hose clamps (not shown)
https://i.imgur.com/K8v91Dt.jpg

[corvette8189]

All done.
https://i.imgur.com/bj7Q9qj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RO6EDkB.jpg

Let me know if you have any questions.

[MJHSupra]

When did SC start putting baffles in the boats?

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[yearround]

I have an 08 LSV. We need to install/remove the platform every time we use the boat from parking in the garage. Is a connection similar to this possible for my boat? the connection to the platform seemed cumbersome to remove/replace so frequently and that the platform seems to wiggle much more than would be acceptable for a connection through the hull.

thank you

[corvette8189]

When did SC start putting baffles in the boats?

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I believe all the Raptor engines have them.

[corvette8189]

I have an 08 LSV. We need to install/remove the platform every time we use the boat from parking in the garage. Is a connection similar to this possible for my boat? the connection to the platform seemed cumbersome to remove/replace so frequently and that the platform seems to wiggle much more than would be acceptable for a connection through the hull.

thank you

Unfortunately not on the dual exhaust but they do have a quick release option available. Check more about it on the options page. Link below
http://www.freshairexhaust.com/about-us/fae-options/

[98outback]

What is the purpose of the baffles?

[corvette8189]

I'm not sure, probably for emissions or something. I do know that it chokes a 4in diameter to about 13/4.
Now removing the restrictive baffle you will gain performance and your RPM's will be less when surfing.

[RC_Hinojosa]

Excellent "How-To" with photos explaining the install process. Admins should make this a sticky!

Corvette8189, I'll be messaging you next pay period ;)

[dusty2221]

Excellent "How-To" with photos explaining the install process. Admins should make this a sticky!

Corvette8189, I'll be messaging you next pay period ;)

You might get lucky and win one at the Jam this year....

[RC_Hinojosa]

You might get lucky and win one at the Jam this year....

That's if I can remember to leave the tie-up early enough... I think we were having too good of a time, LOL!!

By the time we yanked the boat out of the water it was too late to purchase raffle tickets...I had a hundo burning a hole in my pocket too :-(

[KnoxMojo]

There wasn't any baffle to remove or it wasn't necessary to remove on my 15 Mojo.

[kaneboats]

I have an 08 LSV. We need to install/remove the platform every time we use the boat from parking in the garage. Is a connection similar to this possible for my boat? the connection to the platform seemed cumbersome to remove/replace so frequently and that the platform seems to wiggle much more than would be acceptable for a connection through the hull.

thank you

I have the 2008 LSV and did the install last year with the quick connects. I take my platform off every time I go out so it will fit in the garage. It is as easy as 4 pins instead of two. I bought some nicer pins at Lowes so they all match. I have pics I can post from my install if you think it would help anyone.

[corvette8189]

Thanks
Just let me know when your ready.

[Catman]

I bought mine from you last year when you became a dealer I plan on doing the install this weekend . Thanks for the step by step

[corvette8189]

Awesome, if you have any questions just let me know.

[98outback]

I'm not sure, probably for emissions or something. I do know that it chokes a 4in diameter to about 13/4.
Now removing the restrictive baffle you will gain performance and your RPM's will be less when surfing.

Will it void warranty?

[rdlangston13]

I don’t think it would void your warranty since they now offer them from the dealer. It may need to be dealer installed though.


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[corvette8189]

Will it void warranty?
From FAE
WILL FAE INTERFERE WITH MY BOAT WARRANTY?
There are thousands of FAE installed. We are not aware of anyone having a warranty issue with FAE. If your boat engine is under warranty you can have your boat dealer perform the FAE installation to eliminate any warranty questions.

[98outback]

I’m still on the fence. Had it on my last Supra but of course it was out of warranty. I guess if I order the factory fae that should not void anything. I’m sure removing the baffle they could use to void warranty on certain issues. Just don’t want to ruin a 7 year warranty.

[Dtbradly]

Great write up!

[corvette8189]

Thanks

Anybody looking at getting one, send me a PM for discount.

[Boonejeepin]

I’m still on the fence. Had it on my last Supra but of course it was out of warranty. I guess if I order the factory fae that should not void anything. I’m sure removing the baffle they could use to void warranty on certain issues. Just don’t want to ruin a 7 year warranty.

Skip the baffle removal. Save the OEM flapper and install the FAE. If the engine fails swap back. :)

I doubt you will ever have to deal with this.


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[Jeepers]

Posted on the Facebook Page and figured id post it here as well.
I'm a dealer for FAE so if you have any questions or would like to purchase one just send me a message.

Start off with removing the stock flapper and 4 screws that hold the through hull connection together.
https://i.imgur.com/9OyDZLx.jpg

Then undo the 2 clamps on the inside
https://i.imgur.com/TFvYl5y.jpg

Next takes some patience to get the through hole connection off. I used the debond I got with the install kit and a putty knife to help get it loose then used the shims and a mallet. Grabbed it with some pliers and moved it left, right, up, and down and hit the shims in more.
https://i.imgur.com/HIsxoQ1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eG3Ppkh.jpg

Just use a heat gun. It works great on 5200.


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[jcredible]

Hey guys,

Billy hooked me up and these instructions are great. I got all the holes drilled and ready to mount tomorrow.

I am curious of people attach the flexible hose after the mount is completed or as you are inserting the FAE and mounting it? Reason I ask is that it is pretty tight in there and the hose is pretty darn stiff.

Let me know guys!

[corvette8189]

Hey guys,

Billy hooked me up and these instructions are great. I got all the holes drilled and ready to mount tomorrow.

I am curious of people attach the flexible hose after the mount is completed or as you are inserting the FAE and mounting it? Reason I ask is that it is pretty tight in there and the hose is pretty darn stiff.

Let me know guys!

As your mounting it as that hose is not very flexible.

[chezdude]

With the FAE having that long of a moment arm and going down into the water behind the center plate, I’d think that would be a lot of force exerted on it. In particular those welds where the pipe connects to the through-hull flange. Any effect on the wave with the pipe sitting asymmetrically off the back of the boat?

Is this FAE in the same design as the factory? I thought the factory kept it closer to the hull (between the center and port plates).

[flienlow]

2 Questions:

1. Do I need debond? I have read a lot of mixed reviews, and have read where goof off has worked.

2. I am planning on taking a saws all and cutting out my baffe vs buying a new one, is that doable or should i just buy a new one?

Thanks!!

[htfit]

I just got done removing my stock exhaust pipe and the debond did help. I used a heat gun and that didn't seem to do too much and then I hammered a wood wedge in and it provided a little gap to spray the debond in. You can hear it crackle when putting it on. I am sure you can do it without but it did seem to help.

I haven't gotten the baffle out. I was debating on just leaving it in for the simple fact I have no idea how to get it out. There is zero room to pull it out because of the length of the hose.

Does anybody have any advice on getting the baffle out? I can't really have somebody from the outside pull it with pliers because it is already against the transom. Thanks!

[flienlow]

I just got done removing my stock exhaust pipe and the debond did help. I used a heat gun and that didn't seem to do too much and then I hammered a wood wedge in and it provided a little gap to spray the debond in. You can hear it crackle when putting it on. I am sure you can do it without but it did seem to help.

I haven't gotten the baffle out. I was debating on just leaving it in for the simple fact I have no idea how to get it out. There is zero room to pull it out because of the length of the hose.

Does anybody have any advice on getting the baffle out? I can't really have somebody from the outside pull it with pliers because it is already against the transom. Thanks!

I too just got the old exhaust off. What a pain. :)
I thought the baffle was next to the exhaust pipe but after remove I see it is well under the engine. Did you try to remove yours yet? It does look like it would be a pain.

Also for installing the exhaust mine only came with wood screws. Did yours come with Machine screws as depicted in this write up? I feel this should be through bolted and not just screwed into the fiber glass. I am trying to figure out why they only use 3 holes instead of 4 too. My left lower hold is just a few degrees off, but I may still use that, and skip the templating part.

[htfit]

I too just got the old exhaust off. What a pain. :)
I thought the baffle was next to the exhaust pipe but after remove I see it is well under the engine. Did you try to remove yours yet? It does look like it would be a pain.

Also for installing the exhaust mine only came with wood screws. Did yours come with Machine screws as depicted in this write up? I feel this should be through bolted and not just screwed into the fiber glass. I am trying to figure out why they only use 3 holes instead of 4 too. My left lower hold is just a few degrees off, but I may still use that, and skip the templating part.

I loosened all the clamps to remove the baffle but I had no luck in getting it out. The only thing I can think of is folding the hose in half and wrapping a rope around it and having someone pull on it through the hole, if that makes any sense. I am just really nervous about kinking the hose so I am not sure if that is an option. Other than that I have no idea how to get it out. If the baffle was only a couple inches long I can see it, but it is 8" or something, so it is going to take a lot to get it out.

Yeah, I thought the same thing on the screws... For being custom it would of been pretty easy to drill 4 holes on the fae so it matches the current holes. I even thought about drilling 4 holes on the fae to match it up but I don't have a drill press and I would imagine trying to free hand it on the stainless steel would be tough.

That left lower screw is close. I didn't spend too much time lining it up perfectly, but I am with you, if I can reuse that hole I am going to if it is that close. I was not using the paper template, I pushed the hose to the side enough to put the pipe in and I will mark where the holes are going.

Yes, wood screws came with mine too. I think with the screws, the sealant, and the pipe sticking in the hose 4 inches or so it is not going anywhere. I have a little experience with the 3m 5200 and once it is on it is on. I think if the transom wasn't almost an inch thick I would be nervous about it and want it bolted all the way through.

[flienlow]

I think that better may be the enemy of good enough. It is so close as it is with that one Screw As pictured here. Right now my concern is will the screws be strong enough to suck that metal flange uptight to the hole since the inside exhaust pipe is giving a little bit of resistance by pushing out? that would be the only reason why I would want to use the through bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200406/bd6f22c378e8b51cc937fbebd413171a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200406/2c53906e2d9160fb62695203f76808c9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200406/c20fca0eeaf0131df90d56d14d22d762.jpg

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[Stazi]

You SHOULD use through bolts. not wood screws. The drag on the exhaust pipe is HUGE. I cracked mine just frm the drag and had to get FAE to reweld it. Wood screws would definitely get ripped out - and when that happens you will sink!!!!!!

[htfit]

I think performance wise, it is good. I would be willing to bet that if you were to look at some of them from the factory they would be off by so much.

I am going to have another go at it this afternoon. I think if I can get at least a quarter inch away from the current hole and it be straight I will drill a new hole.

The only other benefit of drilling a new hole is if you use the screws that came with the fae. If I recall correctly they are a little longer and if the thread is different it would be good to use a new hole. Less chance of it stripping out.



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[flienlow]

I think performance wise, it is good. I would be willing to bet that if you were to look at some of them from the factory they would be off by so much.

I am going to have another go at it this afternoon. I think if I can get at least a quarter inch away from the current hole and it be straight I will drill a new hole.

The only other benefit of drilling a new hole is if you use the screws that came with the fae. If I recall correctly they are a little longer and if the thread is different it would be good to use a new hole. Less chance of it stripping out.


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Let me know how it goes. I feel that Stazi is right and that if something ever happened, you would down with Davy Jones right quick like. And just think of all the beer you would lose? I am think I am going to through bold mine just for piece of mind.

[BigOrange]

Guys, use the through bolts. I haven’t had an issue with the FAE itself like Stazi, but there is pressure back there as I’ve had broken bolts. I think mainly that was from me over tightening during original install, but I just got through replacing mine with all new SS 1/4” - 20 bolts and new nylocks.

The baffle is a royal pain. If you can’t get it out, I’m not sure I’d worry about it. If you must and want to try it in-situ, you could have a really long drill bit to come from the transom, then a long piece of threaded rod with a toggle but on it. But still, that may not break it loose. It’s tac welded in 3 or 4 places. That’s a lot of extra time and money but worth a shot if you can’t separate the baffle pipe from the manifold.

[flienlow]

Guys, use the through bolts. I haven’t had an issue with the FAE itself like Stazi, but there is pressure back there as I’ve had broken bolts. I think mainly that was from me over tightening during original install, but I just got through replacing mine with all new SS 1/4” - 20 bolts and new nylocks.

The baffle is a royal pain. If you can’t get it out, I’m not sure I’d worry about it. If you must and want to try it in-situ, you could have a really long drill bit to come from the transom, then a long piece of threaded rod with a toggle but on it. But still, that may not break it loose. It’s tac welded in 3 or 4 places. That’s a lot of extra time and money but worth a shot if you can’t separate the baffle pipe from the manifold.


Is the issue getting the rear hose off or the baffle out? I was wondering I could just use a uni-big and drill some bigger holes in the baffle if I could get the rear hose off?

[BigOrange]

If you get the hose off then you should be able to slide the baffle pipe out. But, yeah the whole point is to open up the restriction so ideally just drilling multiple large holes should due the trick. Snake a shop vac up there when done!

[flienlow]

Good news I got it off. Bad news what have I done? I think I can simply pry off the spot welded tabs from the inside with a screwdriver to remove the flaps. I will reinstall with enough Vaseline to Intrigue a 15 year old boy. Removal was done with a series of twisting of the pipe. About a 15 "phuck!" Job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200406/5e82733f0f14f4bac916277330106106.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200406/eeaedc8c867f9e7081bea2397d1cfb3e.jpg

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[flienlow]

Ummm Yeah.that is some strong material. Laid waste to 2 unibits right off the bat. Threw a 1/2 inch drill bit at it and it spit in my face. I tried to bend them open with a pry bar and it asked if I was feeling cute. I need a die grinder and dont own one. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200406/87aa9a0b0bca7620e0f22d7a95142f3b.jpg

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[htfit]

What is the trick to getting the baffle out? Did you just push the hose to the side as far as you can or did you bend it in half to make room for it slide off? I am sure there is something I am just missing.

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[htfit]

Let me know how it goes. I feel that Stazi is right and that if something ever happened, you would down with Davy Jones right quick like. And just think of all the beer you would lose? I am think I am going to through bold mine just for piece of mind.I guess it doesnt take much more to bolt it anyways. They are right, might as well take the extra precaution.

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[Boonejeepin]

Bolt it!


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[flienlow]

What is the trick to getting the baffle out? Did you just push the hose to the side as far as you can or did you bend it in half to make room for it slide off? I am sure there is something I am just missing.

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So I got down there and rotated the hose bunch of times.. I removed all the clamps and would rotate will pushing toward the rudder. Then I would kink the hose a bit and bend it straight up and pull. This is about finess when working around the blower ext. But rotate the shit out of it. That seems to loosen it up. Mine eventually popped off.

[flienlow]

Not perfect but definitely good enough. Neighbore had a Dremel and We hammered it, beat on it and eventually got most of material cut out. then it was kids dinner, and bedtime so we called it a day. I think I'm going to leave it at this. If I had better tools this would probably be a non-event but in hindsight I should have bought the damn tube.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200407/be0e2024e5151ebef12291be261532ee.jpg

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[htfit]

So I got down there and rotated the hose bunch of times.. I removed all the clamps and would rotate will pushing toward the rudder. Then I would kink the hose a bit and bend it straight up and pull. This is about finess when working around the blower ext. But rotate the shit out of it. That seems to loosen it up. Mine eventually popped off.Awesome, I will give it a try. Thank you.

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[flienlow]

I taped blue tape around the hole and found the hole center with a square. I then drew a center line. I cheated the pipe up a hair in the hole then marked and drilled a pilot hole followed by the 11/64 drill bit all what paying close attention to drill angle(keeping it slightly up.) I then used the wood screw to tighten up the pipe on the top hole. Once the kid and I decided what was straight I took the sharpe and eyeballed the next two holes in the slots and drilled them out. I bought 1/4-20 SS machine screws, but thinking I will down size to 3/16 tomorrow so we scrapped install. I decided I had better fit that exhaust hose in because it would be extremely difficult to do with exhaust in. I used spray away glass cleaner to lube the tube and shovel the baffle pipe in engine side to the sharpe mark I made. We then lubed the other tube up and fussed and cussed it in but me bending and rotating with neighbor shoving it in with hand from transom hole. Tomorrow we final drill, test fit, then lube and goo.

[htfit]

Thank you flienlow for posting all the tips.

I finally got around to finishing mine. I was able to get the baffle out bending the rear hose and wrapping a rope around it while someone pulled. The only thing I did was keep the clamps on the baffle so it came off with the hose. It was a little easier removing the baffle from the rear hose in a vise once it was out vs removing it still inside the boat if that makes any sense.

I used silicone spray to help get everything slide back in together.

I did bolt it through like everyone recommended. The only thing I am nervous about was I didnt wait 2 hours before tightening it down so the 5200 had time to dry a little. I cranked it down right away really tight and I hope I didnt just squeeze out all the sealant.

I just put it back together without reading the directions again to remember to do that.

It was a big mess though with sealant everywhere. I spent at least an hour cleaning and wiping it all up as best I could.

The clearance on mine from the center plate is very minimal. Maybe .25 inches. Not much room for error on that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200414/b4b0d7d47a69baace0900260176989f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200414/61045f90076e88f62bac53d30c7bd922.jpg

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[flienlow]

Thank you flienlow for posting all the tips.

I finally got around to finishing mine. I was able to get the baffle out bending the rear hose and wrapping a rope around it while someone pulled. The only thing I did was keep the clamps on the baffle so it came off with the hose. It was a little easier removing the baffle from the rear hose in a vise once it was out vs removing it still inside the boat if that makes any sense.

I used silicone spray to help get everything slide back in together.

I did bolt it through like everyone recommended. The only thing I am nervous about was I didnt wait 2 hours before tightening it down so the 5200 had time to dry a little. I cranked it down right away really tight and I hope I didnt just squeeze out all the sealant.

I just put it back together without reading the directions again to remember to do that.

It was a big mess though with sealant everywhere. I spent at least an hour cleaning and wiping it all up as best I could.

The clearance on mine from the center plate is very minimal. Maybe .25 inches. Not much room for error on that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200414/b4b0d7d47a69baace0900260176989f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200414/61045f90076e88f62bac53d30c7bd922.jpg

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Nice! Yeah that 5200 was very deceiving. At first you think its like every RTV type sealant but as soon at that pipe hits the transom its a goo fest. Anyone following would be wise to tape all around pipe hole, stick the pipe in where you want and then cut the tape with a razor blade to reveal where the exhaust goes. that way you keep 5200 for smearing all over the boat.

I ended up using the 1/4" bolts. I got the exhaust in fairly snug and waited few day to final torque ( which was little more than an exercise in how to I get a wrench on it.) Then squirmed the hose on the best I could. There was still 5200 oozing. I hope it is Sealed.

Clearances were much the same as you had. There is a not a lot of room between pipe and wake plate.

[flienlow]

UPDATE: Yesterday I noticed we were taking on water around the surf pipe. I put my boat on the lift and noticed that my top bolt somehow broke. The other bolts were tight. This winter I may need to bore out the holes to 1/4 inch instead of 3/16" SS machine screws. I will also to a head head bolt too instead of Phillips.

[jcredible]

I had the same thing happen and replaced with 1/4" bolts. Same thing but mine was bottom right bolt but it cracked my weld.

Been chatting with Larry, and he has updated the install with a composite board for extra strength on the transom.

[flienlow]

I had the same thing happen and replaced with 1/4" bolts. Same thing but mine was bottom right bolt but it cracked my weld.

Been chatting with Larry, and he has updated the install with a composite board for extra strength on the transom.
EDIT:
Do they sell an upgrade yet?

Also did you need to remove the pipe and reseal? or Just use the bigger bolts?

[BigOrange]

This is happening enough that I believe we may need to take it up with FAE themselves. My top bolt also broke last year and I replaced all three this past winter with 1/4"" SS. Still a constant but not dangerous leak into the bilge at the transom exhaust protrusion. I've tried extra "crank-down" and silicon and don't understand why the water intrusion is still occurring. It also looks like a weld crack where the pipe meets the FAE flange. Could be surface only but definitely a bit worrisome.

[jcredible]

I would take it up with Larry @ FAE, he has been responsive to me and will make it right. It is essentially a piece of Trex composite board to give the bolts some more structural components to grab onto.

[flienlow]

I attempted a cheesy fix with the boat on the lift. Futile effort. The boat is leaking bad. In a shining display of brilliance,I opted to use a paint brush to get paint the 5200 around the flange. The boat was more than happy to leak afterward. Today, I am going pull the boat and remove the exhaust. I am pretty far from happy.

[MJHSupra]

^^ Ouch ^^

[Stazi]

Did you wait for a while to allow the 5200 to partially set before you bolted down the exhaust? If you didn’t and just. Bolted it down immediately and pushed all the sealant out, then it could be why it’s leaking.


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[jcredible]

i definitely let mine partially set for 2-4 hours....and both times I pulled off the pipe there was a 1-2mm bead on the surface area of the flange.

It was a bugger to get the pipe off, but with a broken bolt it still had enough play for a small leak. The pipe was not coming off with the 5200 but enough play to allow water to leak in slowly.

[flienlow]

i definitely let mine partially set for 2-4 hours....and both times I pulled off the pipe there was a 1-2mm bead on the surface area of the flange.

It was a bugger to get the pipe off, but with a broken bolt it still had enough play for a small leak. The pipe was not coming off with the 5200 but enough play to allow water to leak in slowly.

HOLD! You had to pull your FAE twice?

[jcredible]

Yes, the #12 snapped on one location, then the new 1/4" bolts i installed snapped in the same spot.(Only 1 bolt) I reached out to Larry @ FAE and he has given me feedback on a new install procedure with a composite board backing to provide additional depth on the transom.

I am hopeful that it will work...but going to attempt it in the off season as sick of losing downtime this summer!

[flienlow]

Yes, the #12 snapped on one location, then the new 1/4" bolts i installed snapped in the same spot.(Only 1 bolt) I reached out to Larry @ FAE and he has given me feedback on a new install procedure with a composite board backing to provide additional depth on the transom.

I am hopeful that it will work...but going to attempt it in the off season as sick of losing downtime this summer!

Ok, I pretty annoyed right now. Got off the phone with Larry. He is a wonderful guy and wants to support his customers, don't get me wrong; but it seems to me this Exhaust was not well thought out and they are failing all over the place and not only with Moomba boats. It was suggested that I remove FAE and install old exhaust with silicone until end of season.

Except....

I threw it away.

Cause....

Who needs that piece of shit lying around when you have a ballin new surf exhaust?

For those following a long, I would say do this at your own peril. I would not. There is way too much moment arm stress on the exhaust, and your new expensive boat was built with thinnest cheapest transom known to man. 1" or so thick. Plus the exhaust only penetrates the hull 3inches.

What do I do now?
1. Go buy silicone and goop the shit out it and hope it holds?
2. Remove exhaust, reinstall and wait 7days for 5200 to cure?
3. Go but on the exhaust flange and temp it back in?

[larry_arizona]

Buy stock exhaust and put it on.

Correct me if I am wrong, but if surf pipe fails, boat sinks?


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[jcredible]

I would do the following:

1) Use 5200 Fast Cure
2) Upgrade to 1/4" bolts or 5/16" bolts if you can.
3) Bore out holes to support it.

The 5200 Fast Cure sets way quicker (I used it when re-installing the factory exhaust flange). I think original 5200 needs 48 hours above water level....and continues to cure below water line too...but seeing as you have a lift...not as big of an issue.

[jcredible]

Larry - yes...if the weld breaks(and it probably will if you keep snapping bolts)....then it will take on more water than you want.

[flienlow]

I would do the following:

1) Use 5200 Fast Cure
2) Upgrade to 1/4" bolts or 5/16" bolts if you can.
3) Bore out holes to support it.

The 5200 Fast Cure sets way quicker (I used it when re-installing the factory exhaust flange). I think original 5200 needs 48 hours above water level....and continues to cure below water line too...but seeing as you have a lift...not as big of an issue.

Yeah, My hand is forced. Wait 2 weeks for the stock fiberglass one or just reinstall what we got. I will be pulling the boat and going with 1/4 " SS Hex Bolts.

[flienlow]

Yeah, My hand is forced. Wait 2 weeks for the stock fiberglass one or just reinstall what we got. I will be pulling the boat and going with 1/4 " SS Hex Bolts.

EDIT:
We pulled the boat. While driving to the launch I noticed very little water in the bilge. It was a hot day, we had beer on ice, and the lake was smooth. We ran to the store and I am ashamed to say.... bought some clear flex seal and slathered that all around. Everything seemed fine until my 1250# bag came apart. We dewatered the boat, and kept going, but could never tell if we were leaking again or not.

[MJHSupra]

Buy stock exhaust and put it on.

Correct me if I am wrong, but if surf pipe fails, boat sinks?


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Stock exhaust or stock surf pipe?

[flienlow]

Stock exhaust or stock surf pipe?

I post this on FB. I am done. will be ordering stock exhaust tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6uZQrtCDmk

[larry_arizona]

Failure zone makes sense.

The pipe is a long lever arm and the greatest load would be right where it failed.

The stock surf pipe has a hydro foil around it.

Haven’t spent much time thinking about the hydrofoil flange, but my assumption is that it counters the loading or dampens vibration.


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[MJHSupra]

I post this on FB. I am done. will be ordering stock exhaust tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6uZQrtCDmk

I was looking for one on my SL. Priced the aftermarket and talked to my buddy at the dealer. My buddy's response about 2-3 months ago" "buy a stock one".
Didn't think much about it until more of these stories were popping up on social media this summer.

I'm sure the stock ones have some issues too . . .

[Stazi]

I post this on FB. I am done. will be ordering stock exhaust tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6uZQrtCDmk

Wow..not good. I had mine crack and sent it back to be repaired. I told them that he really need to gusset the pipe around the flange but they said it wasn’t necessary. I’m a mechanical engineer (with a design patent), what would I know?

Repaired unit is holding up fine so far. I kept my stock outlet......just in case.


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[flienlow]

Wow..not good. I had mine crack and sent it back to be repaired. I told them that he really need to gusset the pipe around the flange but they said it wasn’t necessary. I’m a mechanical engineer (with a design patent), what would I know?

Repaired unit is holding up fine so far. I kept my stock outlet......just in case.


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I’m not a mechanical engineer. But IMHO, the Transom is a shamefully weak design and the Moment arm of that pipe is way too much. I noticed this when I installed it, but thought that maybe the drag was lower that I thought it would be and that these folks had it all sorted out.

[larry_arizona]

I’m not a mechanical engineer. But IMHO, the Transom is a shamefully weak design and the Moment arm of that pipe is way too much. I noticed this when I installed it, but thought that maybe the drag was lower that I thought it would be and that these folks had it all sorted out.

Did the transom fail?

If not, the pipe design or material is the problem. Also an M.E. here trying to analyze this break.


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[flienlow]

Did the transom fail?

If not, the pipe design or material is the problem. Also an M.E. here trying to analyze this break.


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The Transom appears to be fine as far as I can tell. The weld between Stainless flange and Pipe failed.

[Boonejeepin]

I experienced the same issue with bolt failures (upgrades bolts) and cracked flanges until I broke out a saw and shortened the down pipe. No issues after that.


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[Kirby]

The new pipe from the factory does not hang as low, weld looks a bit better. Tech says it's way better design. We will see. On my third...

[Stazi]

I experienced the same issue with bolt failures (upgrades bolts) and cracked flanges until I broke out a saw and shortened the down pipe. No issues after that.


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You cut your downpipe length? Got pics? How much shorter did you make it and on what boat?


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[Stazi]

Did the transom fail?

If not, the pipe design or material is the problem. Also an M.E. here trying to analyze this break.


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Larry, not sure how the transom can be blamed here. Unless it’s flexing so much that it’s causing an issue, but I would expect to see stress crack if that were the case.


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[yearround]

Hey guys, i have been tracking this a little. I have not looked elsewhere for other FAE issues, and am generally unaware of these problems. However, i did buy FAE for my boat last May, but I have not been able to install it yet, due in part to an unrelated axle failure June 1 and lost boat for 5 weeks (not fully resolved, but i hope close).

I have my FAE sitting ready to install, but this stuff is giving me some great concern. There are a few with problems, pretty big problems too. The broken weld should be considered a catastrophic failure. (I am a PE - Civil Engineer with structural and geotechnical emphasis, i know a little about welds and expected performance)

Are there people who have had no issues with this and because all is fine they are not vocal? i understand that we are usually silent when everything works as designed, but we holler when it does not.

should i put this FAE on or should i buy the stock surf pipe and install that?

[larry_arizona]

You cut your downpipe length? Got pics? How much shorter did you make it and on what boat?


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Exactly my point, can’t see what the transom has to do with it.


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[parrothd]

I bought 3 or 4 pipes from Larry and this last pipe has cracked like everyone else. When I called to get support he was like you can send it back for repair(during summer?) and "we're coming up with new install procedures". I ended up fixing the cracks, beefed up the welds and used larger bolts and reinstalled it. Don't think I'll be buying another from them, it clearly needs some sort of support arm. They should be sending out replacements as they crack with new supports.

[RC_Hinojosa]

Hey guys, i have been tracking this a little. I have not looked elsewhere for other FAE issues, and am generally unaware of these problems. However, i did buy FAE for my boat last May, but I have not been able to install it yet, due in part to an unrelated axle failure June 1 and lost boat for 5 weeks (not fully resolved, but i hope close).

I have my FAE sitting ready to install, but this stuff is giving me some great concern. There are a few with problems, pretty big problems too. The broken weld should be considered a catastrophic failure. (I am a PE - Civil Engineer with structural and geotechnical emphasis, i know a little about welds and expected performance)

Are there people who have had no issues with this and because all is fine they are not vocal? i understand that we are usually silent when everything works as designed, but we holler when it does not.

should i put this FAE on or should i buy the stock surf pipe and install that?

I hate to say it but these problems aren't isolated to FAE. Both OEM & FAE surf pipes have had issues with bolts breaking and welds cracking.

I have the OEM surf pipe and it's had bolt issues twice...proceed with caution.

If your out one day and think your bilge is kicking on too often your surf pipe would be a prime suspect.

[Prospersigman]

Does the Moomba OEM surf pipe have the extra fin on the pipe itself like the Supra does?

[BigOrange]

So, I've been quiet up until my earlier post in this thread. But now, after seeing what happened to flienlow, I'm sure mine is cracking as well. I wanted to write it off as surface cracking and that FAE would have surely had enough design / safety factor margin to prevent a catastrophic fail. Looks like not so much.

[BigOrange]

Does the Moomba OEM surf pipe have the extra fin on the pipe itself like the Supra does?

I believe it most definitely does.

[RC_Hinojosa]

Does the Moomba OEM surf pipe have the extra fin on the pipe itself like the Supra does?Yes, the Moomba OEM surf pipe has the winglet on it.

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[Boonejeepin]

You cut your downpipe length? Got pics? How much shorter did you make it and on what boat?


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I cut the down pipe about an inch lower than the wakeplate in the fully extended position on my old 2018 Max. I also used a clamp and hammer to reshape the pipe to closely match the stock shape at the tip. This is the best pic that I have.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/2c15e9c847327f7b21827970c2e06608.jpg



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[Boonejeepin]

Does the Moomba OEM surf pipe have the extra fin on the pipe itself like the Supra does?

The Moomba pipes have the horizontal plate but my understanding is that it was to control spray to not cause cosmetic issues what the wake.


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[flienlow]

I cut the down pipe about an inch lower than the wakeplate in the fully extended position on my old 2018 Max. I also used a clamp and hammer to reshape the pipe to closely match the stock shape at the tip. This is the best pic that I have.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/2c15e9c847327f7b21827970c2e06608.jpg



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How long have you been running this? Any issues?

[flienlow]

So yesterday I got this new tip. It is from a supra and all the dealer had to replace my stock one that I threw away. It has a flapper that I feel is pretty restrictive. I wonder if I should remove it?

[larry_arizona]

Do not remove the flapper. The flapper prevents water backing up into the engine.

Surf pipes don’t have flappers its hard for water/waves to fill a pipe with a high hump in it


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[flienlow]

Do not remove the flapper. The flapper prevents water backing up into the engine.

Surf pipes don’t have flappers its hard for water/waves to fill a pipe with a high hump in it


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I have some confusion. Look at Post #3. I think there already is an internal baffle? My Setup was identical before with the exterior flapper, but that seems way less restrictive.

[parrothd]

I have some confusion. Look at Post #3. I think there already is an internal baffle? My Setup was identical before with the exterior flapper, but that seems way less restrictive.


The baffle is noise reduction, flapper prevents engine flooding, the surf pipe has a flapper in it unless you ordered it without.

[jnr4817]

Will the Supra exhaust port tip work better then stock moomba mojo exhaust port? It looks like it deflects the exhaust down into the water versus just straight out of the boat. Also will it work with center surf tab? Would it be a good upgrade for a moomba?

[RC_Hinojosa]

Will the Supra exhaust port tip work better then stock moomba mojo exhaust port? It looks like it deflects the exhaust down into the water versus just straight out of the boat. Also will it work with center surf tab? Would it be a good upgrade for a moomba?This is the OEM Moomba surf pipe...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/cb304cc79cc5a724dda48352c3cd60f7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/5ce36b36c678d57485cf21f6654e1bcc.jpg

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[Prospersigman]

Looks the exact same as the OEM Supra version, plus it has a drain hole in the bottom of the surf pipe where the surf pipe goes into the transom wall.

[larry_arizona]

I noticed the 2020+ Supra surf pipes are much shallower/flatter

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/ba4f1ae2d0149dda8ea6b3a648939dae.jpg



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[Kirby]

I noticed the 2020+ Supra surf pipes are much shallower/flatter

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/ba4f1ae2d0149dda8ea6b3a648939dae.jpg



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That's what my new one looks like, doesn't hang down so far

[flienlow]

UGH, I dunno if this is going to work. this tip is very close to the surf plate.

[jnr4817]

Can you turn it left or right 45* so it’s pointing to the center or side and not directly on the plate?

[flienlow]

no. that is the shortest way

[Stazi]

I’d cut back the downturn a bit to give it a little more clearance.
Make the end have a 45° slash, looks like it’s around 60° right now
It’ll be plenty open like that. Remember, I t’s flowing gas not a full stream of water.

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[larry_arizona]

If that is the stock exhaust tip, why would it be an issue?


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[Boonejeepin]

How long have you been running this? Any issues?

Ran it for a few months like that before trading the Max for an SE. No issues after being shortened.


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[parrothd]

Ran it for a few months like that before trading the Max for an SE. No issues after being shortened.


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Probably make your exhaust louder, the noise will be directed back up instead of out.

[flienlow]

I opted to have it cut. I took it to a local welding shop. their good saw was broken. So I just had the kid lob it off the Porta band. I took it home and put it on a belt sander to get rid of most of the egregiously Gross cut that it came out with. I sent fresh air exhaust the pictures of the broken pipe. But no one has responded and I'm getting the feeling that they really don't give a shit and that really pisses me off as I am not to found of this pain in the ass project.. Not to mention I'm fn up an $80,000 boat in the process.

[zabooda]

Late to the show but the lateral forces on the pipe would require additional bracing. With the pipe offset from the transom outlet, there will be rotational forces at the flange. One good flange at the top of the pipe directly back to the transom would eliminate most of the torque on the flange. Most of the time you would never see it as the swim platform would be covering it. The flange would have to be stout as it would hopefully take the brunt of the stresses that the flange was taking.

[parrothd]

I opted to have it cut. I took it to a local welding shop. their good saw was broken. So I just had the kid lob it off the Porta band. I took it home and put it on a belt sander to get rid of most of the egregiously Gross cut that it came out with. I sent fresh air exhaust the pictures of the broken pipe. But no one has responded and I'm getting the feeling that they really don't give a shit and that really pisses me off as I am not to found of this pain in the ass project.. Not to mention I'm fn up an $80,000 boat in the process.

Any welding place that does stainless can double up the welds and add a bracket. The pipes and bolts are cracking from the vibration, they went with looking cool instead of functional.

[larry_arizona]

The more I look at the factory pipe with the wing, the more I believe it’s a vibration dampener.

The pipe can take the loading, but no pipe will last if during loading it sees a harmonic that see natural frequency.

It’s very possible the FAE pipe could see a resonant frequency at a certain speed. 10mph for example could be fine, but 11.3 may hit a bad frequency......just my theory.


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[flienlow]

The factory pipe has 4 bolt holes. Some some reason fae goes against that and only has 3 holes. I knew that was inadequate when I saw it.

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[htfit]

I have seen all the stories about the fae pipe getting cracks in the weld and failing. It looks like I might be part of that club. It looks like I got a hair line crack in it. Just watching it every time I go out to see if it gets worse. Maybe a winter project repairing or swapping it out. I am considering cutting it shorter now to maybe make it last a little longer.

I think if I cut it just 1-2 inches below the center plate at 100% that would be enough to mix it in with prop wash while reducing the amount of drag and pressure on it.

If I get a new one I think I am going to do that before installing it.

Not looking forward to replacing it. There is a whole lot of 5200 on that thing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/6adb2aa45017e4995db0c59ba12b3db1.jpg

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[smitty75]

Are issues limited to aftermarket FAE, or is the factory system having similar issues?


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[larry_arizona]

Are issues limited to aftermarket FAE, or is the factory system having similar issues?


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I have not heard of a factory failure, however the 2020+ surf pipes are shorter and less of a lever arm.


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[htfit]

Mine is directly from the original makers of fresh air exhaust. I would imagine they all come from them but I could be wrong on that. I would think they have a patent.

But maybe they license it to the manufacturers.

I am going to call this week and see what they say about replacing/repairing it



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[dakota4ce]

I have not heard of a factory failure, however the 2020+ surf pipes are shorter and less of a lever arm.


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I have seen several factory surf pipe failures in the last few months....


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[larry_arizona]

I have seen several factory surf pipe failures in the last few months....


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The new style or previous?


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[Stazi]

I pulled mine off again on Friday and reinstalled the factory outlet.
I email FAE and got crickets this time. Not impressed. I told them that they need to gusset these or they will continue to crack. This is the second time it has cracked on me.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/2df5adcf1a067fcc5557b000425298cc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/db7a7b5d8d14fb2383e57a4c6b0cbe89.jpg


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[RC_Hinojosa]

I pulled mine off again on Friday and reinstalled the factory outlet.
I email FAE and got crickets this time. Not impressed. I told them that they need to gusset these or they will continue to crack. This is the second time it has cracked on me.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/2df5adcf1a067fcc5557b000425298cc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/db7a7b5d8d14fb2383e57a4c6b0cbe89.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWho's the FAE dealer on here? Corvette-somthing?

Maybe he can help you get in contact with them.

Pretty shitty that they are ignoring everyone after THEIR product fails.

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[larry_arizona]

I got to say, whoever is welding the FAE pipes, that is an ugly weld.

I still think the factory surf pipe ( I understand they also have cracked) with the fin acts as a vibration dampener.

Sticking with the factory surf pipe.

Heck, some used PVC pipe for this.


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[parrothd]

I pulled mine off again on Friday and reinstalled the factory outlet.
I email FAE and got crickets this time. Not impressed. I told them that they need to gusset these or they will continue to crack. This is the second time it has cracked on me.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/2df5adcf1a067fcc5557b000425298cc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/db7a7b5d8d14fb2383e57a4c6b0cbe89.jpg


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You won't hear anything from FAE, they blew me off saying they were going to update the install directions. Instead of replacing it.

I ended up using larger bolts and welding a thicker bead on the problem area.

[Stazi]

I have two pro welders around my house. I’ll get one to fix properly, how it should be done!

Also contemplating whether a brace from before the elbow back to the drain might be a better option like this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/22875f78ec11e9c129cbf9e1b90b5bf0.jpg


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[parrothd]

I have two pro welders around my house. I’ll get one to fix properly, how it should be done!

Also contemplating whether a brace from before the elbow back to the drain might be a better option like this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/22875f78ec11e9c129cbf9e1b90b5bf0.jpg


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Or use a thicker flange and some small gussets.

[sandm]

I got to say, whoever is welding the FAE pipes, that is an ugly weld.


I'm not a welder but have seen enough over the years and yup. you hit it.....

couple more threads like this and factory surf pipes being on par pricewise will drive fae to cease to exist.
gotta innovate and make your product better than the oem.

[Stazi]

That and have better customer service.

First time it failed they were great to respond and repair. This time they basically ignored my emails and I’m hearing I’m not the only one to get the cold shoulder.

Not good business practice.


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[larry_arizona]

My guess is FAE is struggling keeping up with repairs and might be at the point of cutting their losses, just a guess.

Besides the SC factory option and FAE, who else makes surf pipes for Moomba/Supras in the aftermarket?

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[yearround]

I bought the FAE for my boat in beginning of summer. due to timing of delivery and lots of life things, i did not install, planning to wait until mid summer when i had some planned time away from boating to allow the suggested out of water cure time. then i started seeing all these weld failure issues. kind of wondering if i get the flange modified and strengthened on my own before installing, or wait to see if FAE offers anything, or just abandon the FAE and think i just saved by boat from sinking due to a failed surf pipe?

hmm. i guess i am just writing some of my thoughts

[Stazi]

Get gussets out on around the flange (like my pic) to strengthen the connection.

Otherwise it will crack.


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[2in2out]

Get gussets out on around the flange (like my pic) to strengthen the connection.

Otherwise it will crack.


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I would increase the flange circumference and thickness, plus add gussets like Stazi said. A single gusset at the top for compression force, and two on the bottom thirds to manage tension. Stainless welds handle tension well, but compression not so good. Explains the micro-fissures on the upper weld surface. If you don't oppose that compression force with tension (place two gussets under compression and one under tension) the welds on the compressed gussets will crack again. Add heat and moisture into that space and you'll get 970 times the expansion when that moisture turns to water vapor.

[htfit]

Just a quick update, FAE was really fast to send me out a new exhaust. They updated their install instructions and added a 3/4" wood block to the back to basically simulate a thicker transom and reduce the torque on the pipe. It has lock nuts on it so you can just screw the bolts directly into it. They also beefed up the pipe to hopefully stop it from cracking again. I have been quite impressed with their customer service.

I do think I am going to use 1" or 3/4" hdpe instead because I am not too fond of having exposed wood that would be potentially sitting in water back there.

Once I get the old one off I will take pics to see the difference.

It may be a week or so because over the weekend I was pulling the boat, looked back and one of the trailer wheels was smoking. The vault hub leaked all the oil out and it was on fire. I would put water on it and it would boil instantly it was so hot.

I was on a dangerous 2 lane road and they couldn't fit the boat and trailer on the tow truck with out a big risk of damaging it and after calling 3 or 4 tow companies the best solution was to get a landoll trailer which wouldn't be available until the next morning.

Already dark outside and on a bad road, I did the best thing I could think of and drove 5 mph back to the marina which was about 5 miles away.

No matter how slow I drove it still smoked and towards the end sparks where coming off it. Pulling into the parking lot the wheel fell off.

The spindle, rotor, caliber, and wheel is toast.

Today I learned how I could of jacked it up, removed the tire, and put 2x4 blocks between the frame and strut and could of drove it no problem. I could of saved a lot of damage but I didn't have wood blocks and still probaly would not of taken the risk working on it on a busy road at night.

So I learned to keep a couple 2x4 wood blocks in case that happens again and able to safely jack it up.

Also, the mechanic I was talking to strongly suggested I use grease vs oil on the bearing hubs. Because when you have a failure with the oil it is usually castrastraphic.

Anybody have experience or suggestions with switching from the Vault oil hubs to grease?

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200930/6dc710b88e54a4ddbed3b5679484cc0b.jpg

[rdlangston13]

Just a quick update, FAE was really fast to send me out a new exhaust. They updated their install instructions and added a 3/4" wood block to the back to basically simulate a thicker transom and reduce the torque on the pipe. It has lock nuts on it so you can just screw the bolts directly into it. They also beefed up the pipe to hopefully stop it from cracking again. I have been quite impressed with their customer service.

I do think I am going to use 1" or 3/4" hdpe instead because I am not too fond of having exposed wood that would be potentially sitting in water back there.

Once I get the old one off I will take pics to see the difference.

It may be a week or so because over the weekend I was pulling the boat, looked back and one of the trailer wheels was smoking. The vault hub leaked all the oil out and it was on fire. I would put water on it and it would boil instantly it was so hot.

I was on a dangerous 2 lane road and they couldn't fit the boat and trailer on the tow truck with out a big risk of damaging it and after calling 3 or 4 tow companies the best solution was to get a landoll trailer which wouldn't be available until the next morning.

Already dark outside and on a bad road, I did the best thing I could think of and drove 5 mph back to the marina which was about 5 miles away.

No matter how slow I drove it still smoked and towards the end sparks where coming off it. Pulling into the parking lot the wheel fell off.

The spindle, rotor, caliber, and wheel is toast.

Today I learned how I could of jacked it up, removed the tire, and put 2x4 blocks between the frame and strut and could of drove it no problem. I could of saved a lot of damage but I didn't have wood blocks and still probaly would not of taken the risk working on it on a busy road at night.

So I learned to keep a couple 2x4 wood blocks in case that happens again and able to safely jack it up.

Also, the mechanic I was talking to strongly suggested I use grease vs oil on the bearing hubs. Because when you have a failure with the oil it is usually castrastraphic.

Anybody have experience or suggestions with switching from the Vault oil hubs to grease?

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200930/6dc710b88e54a4ddbed3b5679484cc0b.jpg

The newer vault hubs actually use a hybrid grease/oil. It has the consistency of grease when cool and becomes more oily as it heats up. That being said, I do not know what is better or worse in regards to that system vs grease only vs oil only. I had a an issue where my vault grease cap fell off. I had ordered a spare trailing arm assembly to keep as a back up on long road trips for this reason. My dealer swapped my bad trailing arm assembly with the spare that i bough while they waiting on parts to repair the one the trailer came with so I wouldnt be down for weeks waiting on parts. You may want to look into that on the boat mate website.

[larry_arizona]

Just a quick update, FAE was really fast to send me out a new exhaust. They updated their install instructions and added a 3/4" wood block to the back to basically simulate a thicker transom and reduce the torque on the pipe. It has lock nuts on it so you can just screw the bolts directly into it. They also beefed up the pipe to hopefully stop it from cracking again. I have been quite impressed with their customer service.

I do think I am going to use 1" or 3/4" hdpe instead because I am not too fond of having exposed wood that would be potentially sitting in water back there.

Once I get the old one off I will take pics to see the difference.

It may be a week or so because over the weekend I was pulling the boat, looked back and one of the trailer wheels was smoking. The vault hub leaked all the oil out and it was on fire. I would put water on it and it would boil instantly it was so hot.

I was on a dangerous 2 lane road and they couldn't fit the boat and trailer on the tow truck with out a big risk of damaging it and after calling 3 or 4 tow companies the best solution was to get a landoll trailer which wouldn't be available until the next morning.

Already dark outside and on a bad road, I did the best thing I could think of and drove 5 mph back to the marina which was about 5 miles away.

No matter how slow I drove it still smoked and towards the end sparks where coming off it. Pulling into the parking lot the wheel fell off.

The spindle, rotor, caliber, and wheel is toast.

Today I learned how I could of jacked it up, removed the tire, and put 2x4 blocks between the frame and strut and could of drove it no problem. I could of saved a lot of damage but I didn't have wood blocks and still probaly would not of taken the risk working on it on a busy road at night.

So I learned to keep a couple 2x4 wood blocks in case that happens again and able to safely jack it up.

Also, the mechanic I was talking to strongly suggested I use grease vs oil on the bearing hubs. Because when you have a failure with the oil it is usually castrastraphic.

Anybody have experience or suggestions with switching from the Vault oil hubs to grease?

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200930/6dc710b88e54a4ddbed3b5679484cc0b.jpg

Let us know how your Boatmate warranty works out. This should be covered including your towing bill.


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[Stazi]

Still haven’t got a response from FAE on my second failed exhaust.

Time to blow up their phone I guess.


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[sandm]

I am amazed that a boat parts company would suggest a block of wood in a boat.
that's as bad as the tesla owners finding home depot wood in their engine compartment.....

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/discovered-tesla-using-crap-wood-trim-for-cooling-system/

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Tesla-Model-Y-Condenser-1024x631.png

[htfit]

Let us know how your Boatmate warranty works out. This should be covered including your towing bill.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSo far, nothing from boatmate. Called a dozen times. Left message and sent email. I called Dexter (who makes the axles), and actually got to speak to someone and it sounds like they are going to help out. But we'll see. I don't have high expectations but it would be nice for them to replace it, if not at least cover the parts.

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[larry_arizona]

So far, nothing from boatmate. Called a dozen times. Left message and sent email. I called Dexter (who makes the axles), and actually got to speak to someone and it sounds like they are going to help out. But we'll see. I don't have high expectations but it would be nice for them to replace it, if not at least cover the parts.

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If you are within 5 years, I have heard boatmate is outstanding. Plus of course the free roadside assistance.


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[larry_arizona]

I am amazed that a boat parts company would suggest a block of wood in a boat.
that's as bad as the tesla owners finding home depot wood in their engine compartment.....

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/discovered-tesla-using-crap-wood-trim-for-cooling-system/

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Tesla-Model-Y-Condenser-1024x631.png

That is Hysterical!!!!! I work with Tesla and they are beyond a sheet show to deal with and their Mickey Mouse engineering.

There is a reason they rank dead last in quality https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200930/dd3e59ffeace13458d89312bab8e0031.jpg



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[yearround]

If you are within 5 years, I have heard boatmate is outstanding. Plus of course the free roadside assistance.


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this above is certainly not my experience with Dexter/boatmate. i had a hub fail this summer. (i knew the 4x4 trick) pulled the boat back to nearest town (15 miles, but 400 miles from mine) on three wheels. boatmate transferred me to Dexter and basically gave me a good bye kiss and said Dexter would take care of me, as th dexter parts failed, not boatmate. dexter did send replacement parts out for the repai, with great delay and troubles. so far, all the labor has been paid for by me. I did submit the costs to Dexter, the nice person i talked to said it should be covered and she had forwarded it to accounting. so far i have heard no response from them, nor any replies to my inquiries.

BUT, this is a thread about FAE, I still have not installed my fae. I have not decided if i seek a local fab shop to improve the FAE, abandon the whole thing, or check with FAE about updates before i install and fail.

it seems i will check with FAE about updates before i install.

[htfit]

this above is certainly not my experience with Dexter/boatmate. i had a hub fail this summer. (i knew the 4x4 trick) pulled the boat back to nearest town (15 miles, but 400 miles from mine) on three wheels. boatmate transferred me to Dexter and basically gave me a good bye kiss and said Dexter would take care of me, as th dexter parts failed, not boatmate. dexter did send replacement parts out for the repai, with great delay and troubles. so far, all the labor has been paid for by me. I did submit the costs to Dexter, the nice person i talked to said it should be covered and she had forwarded it to accounting. so far i have heard no response from them, nor any replies to my inquiries.

BUT, this is a thread about FAE, I still have not installed my fae. I have not decided if i seek a local fab shop to improve the FAE, abandon the whole thing, or check with FAE about updates before i install and fail.

it seems i will check with FAE about updates before i install.Well, that gives me some direction to focus on working with Dexter vs Boatmate.

I personally think the FAE is worth it. Even after all the hassle I am about to go through reinstalling it. I may have a different tune after trying to pry it off with all the 5200 sealant on there.

I would send them a quick email and see if they say anything. I am undecided about making modifications to it. I thought about cutting it shorter but have to keep in mind the current angle of the outlet so water is not forced up in it when driving or stopping. Also concerned about losing the effectiveness of it if I cut it shorter.

As soon as I get my trailer fixed and boat back I will let you know what I end up doing.

I do like the idea of welding some gussets on it. I think that block of wood they sent with new install instructions is suppose to do the same thing. Well see.



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[BigOrange]

Htfit - would you mind posting what FAE sent regarding the new instructions? I will either need to make a claim with them this winter or just take it to a local weld shop to try and solve myself. I'm interested in what they are recommending.

[Guppydriver]

This thread has me questioning whether I should even order the factory surf pipe in my 21' Max build. Dealer says he wouldn't do it on his boat (not because of reliability), so completely torn. He says it barely does anything to the sound levels and that the motors are so clean, Co2 factors aren't an issue. I thought it was no brainer when I was building it on the configurator, but now I don't know. Maybe I'll just save the $750 bucks(which puts a Mojo that much closer to my price goal).

[UNSTUCK]

I demoed two Maxes two weeks ago. One with FAE and one without. I can tell you the noise level was so similar we couldn't tell a difference. We are used to FAE on past boats so when we smelled a lot of exhaust on the Max without FAE, we knew right away that it was still worth adding.
Is it any cheaper getting it from FAE rather than ordering it with the boat?

[larry_arizona]

Factory Surf pipe > FAE and $720 MSRP option.


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[Guppydriver]

Factory Surf pipe > FAE and $720 MSRP option.


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Plus 5 year Moomb warranty on it. I guess for $670 bucks (@ 7% discount...which should be the minimum a dealer is offering you), it's worth doing. I'm going to keep it.

[htfit]

Htfit - would you mind posting what FAE sent regarding the new instructions? I will either need to make a claim with them this winter or just take it to a local weld shop to try and solve myself. I'm interested in what they are recommending.

I took a screen shot of the part of the instructions that I thought were different.
I am not sure how to attach a PDF. But i can email them if you would like.

2910029099

[htfit]

Just to clear the air with Boatmate. They did call back today and apologized it took so long to get back with me. He said they are short staffed because a few of the guys were out sick. They took care of me without question and sending a new axle out to the dealer to put on. I am pretty excited about that.

[z28ke]

I demoed two Maxes two weeks ago. One with FAE and one without. I can tell you the noise level was so similar we couldn't tell a difference. We are used to FAE on past boats so when we smelled a lot of exhaust on the Max without FAE, we knew right away that it was still worth adding.
Is it any cheaper getting it from FAE rather than ordering it with the boat?

That seems strange that you couldn’t tell an audible difference. Every now and then on my 18 Max with FAE I’ll “blow the carbon out” and rip some WOT donuts and it’s quite obvious when the the tip of the FAE comes out of the water...

[htfit]

I didn't have a FAE when I first got my boat and also noticed a large difference in noise.

In fact, the first time I did a fast sharp turn and that pocket was created where the pipe came out of the water I freaked out because I thought the pipe fell off it was so much louder.

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