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View Full Version : 2007 21v GIII factory ballast parts



gmarkham1
04-05-2018, 08:35 AM
Just upgraded my ballast to the wake-makers kit. I gutted almost all of the factory ballast setup including pumps, tubing, connectors and wiring/fuse block.

They are looking for somebody in need of them.

The sprinkler valves and front drain pump were replaced the last few years so they are not original.

Let me know if you need any parts, you just need to cover a shippin!

Hayden
04-05-2018, 10:18 AM
I am getting ready to do this soon as well. Any tips you'd like to pass on having done it recently?

bsharer
04-05-2018, 07:04 PM
Do you have the factory Rule fill pump?

gmarkham1
04-06-2018, 09:31 AM
Yes, I have the factory fill pump.

It was still working last fall when I last took the boat out.

gmarkham1
04-06-2018, 09:58 AM
Hayden-



Tips-

Have a well thought out plan before you get started. Hardest part of the whole thing was deciding where to put the reversible pumps. I wanted to keep them in in the engine compartment and have them as out of the way as possible and with the least restrictions/bends in the tubing.
I ended up putting the pump for the front bag where the old setup was mounted on top of the trans.
The rear ones are on the panel behind the motor, one is on the front side, one is on the back side. Doing it this way both pump heads are down, the tubing for the right bag goes down the left side of the engine compartment to the pump which is on the back side of the panel then out to the right bag. Opposite for left bag.

I ran the wiring and the tubing under the floor via the same route as the old wiring. The wiring is just long enough to reach the rear pumps this way. I might consider changing this up as I would prefer they not be so tight.

One thing I did that most don't that I have seen was to pull old drain tubing all the way back thru to the thru hull, shortening it and then connecting it directly to the top of bags so the vent line was as short as possible and direct to the thru-hull. I did purchase check valves for each line to prevent air from coming back into bags while trailering etc. I will say pulling the tubing back up was a real pain in the a$$ as there is very limited room and on the starboard side the tubing ran along with gas fill and vent, as well as bilge tubing. If you can remove the wall in between the compartment and the rear seats you will have better access. I could not do so.

I wired directly to the battery, but following up with a seasense distribution block to clean things up. I followed the path of wiring from the battery to the dash, but did have to drill new holes for the connectors to fit through. I also used this hole for the vent line for the front bag. Again, there was just enough wiring to go from the dash to the battery.

I did upgrade the ballast bags as well, after filling one time, I have decided to add the timers to all 3 pumps, I do not see any reason to fill them to the point of bursting so I will set the timers up to fill the bags in increments of 1/3 or 1/2 full as I have varying levels/ages of riders that ride from empty to full. Even with the vent line which is 3/4, the pumps are filling faster then it overflows water. I also do not want to forget to turn them off as often happened with the aerator pumps, but the biggest concern there was killing the battery and that was often at the launch when pulling out in an attempt to empty the bags as much as possible or filling the bags and then the water just kept pumping out the boat not to the point of bursting the bags.

One other thing I did while I was in that space that I have been wanting to do since buying the boat new was to move the bilge pump so it is directly between the gas tank and v-drive as that seems to be the low point in the bilge on a 21v that is accessible.

I have down custom ballast projects before on older boats and some I/Os so drilling the holes in the bottom of the boat was not new, but always double and triple check locations and verify your layout.

I will say the Wakemakers kit is as about as complete as it can be. After having done custom setups years ago... I think I would have saved a ton of money, time and headache if this had been available.

ssevey17
04-06-2018, 10:28 PM
Very interested! I just bought a Mobius V and it doesn't have a ballast system. PM sent!

Hayden
04-09-2018, 01:53 PM
Great write up Gmarkham1.

I moved my bilge pump to where you describe, last year. I also bought check valves with the package so it looks like I'm doing an identical install. I'm adding a 2nd battery at the same time, so I will take your "plan the routing/positioning of everything beforehand" to heart.

I don't quite understand the trouble of pulling the tubing back? I assume you took out your floor when you the install, yes?

I'm also not familiar with the timers you spoke of. Do you have a link to a cutsheet/diagram? Do they replace the 3way rocker switches?

gmarkham1
04-10-2018, 07:49 AM
Here is a link to the timers... https://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-ballast-system-timer.html.


The current routing for the drain/overflow runs through the engine compartment then out the sides of the boat via a path that is between the front of each storage locker wall and behind the rear seats. The Port one was not easy, but because it was the only tube/hose on that side it was a little bit easier. On the Starboard side there are 4 tubes that run the same route and they are zip tied together, which means you almost have to take out the back wall in the Storage locker to get access to the tubing.

Hayden
04-10-2018, 09:38 AM
Understood. Thanks for following up.

gmarkham1
04-11-2018, 05:21 PM
Adding some pics per request...

Forgot to say I had some well used bags that I can part with as well...



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TKO_LSV
04-11-2018, 07:15 PM
PM'd you. In need of solenoid valves with manifold and ski locker bag. Thanks!

gmarkham1
04-12-2018, 02:13 PM
All items are spoken for!