GI to reversible pump ballast upgrade

[crr1876]

All,

I plan to use the black friday deals to upgrade my 2007 LSV from G1 system (just the belly bag on aerator pump) to full reversible system. Here is my plan:

- 3 of the wake makers 720 reversible complete ballast upgrade kits
- I plan to tie the belly bag and IBS together on same pump since belly 400 + IBS 750 ~= one 1100 rear bag so fill times should be similar?
- plan to add a fuse block under driver helm to power all pumps.

I have a couple questions.

1.) Can I use the current through hull from G1 system (which I believe has a scupper cover) so I only have to drill 2 more in bilge?
2.) Wakemakers said draining below the water line and using the timer modules to automatically shut off pumps after a set amount of time is preferable to draining above the water line. Thoughts?

Any other tips you guys have would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chad

[MLA]

1) discard the scupper, even if it means installing a new mushroom. What size is the existing thru-hull. A single thru-hull of the proper size can feed 3 pumps. A thru-hull of proper size can feed 2. This cuts down on bronze hardware and holes in the boat.

2) I do not suggest above the water draining with reversible pumps. Too much extra plumbing and its inefficient at best.

[dakota4ce]

Can pumps also share lines into the bag or does it not work that way?


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[MLA]

Dakota,

Can you elaborate on your example so I make sure I understand before answering? Thanks,

[dakota4ce]

So what do you do, just split the line coming from the mushroom into two lines feeding two different reversible pumps and then each of them has their own dedicated line going all the way to the bag or can you bring them back together?


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[MLA]

In a sense, yes, you can build a common manifold that can support 2 or more pump off a single thru-hull. The manifold branches off to each sac's pump, then out from each pump to each sac. So past the common manifold, each sac is completely independent of any others, with its own plumbing and electrical. Layout of the bilge and bilge depth will usually play a factor in if we can do a common manifold or do we need to do all individual thru-hulls or maybe a single and a double.

Pumps do not starve, no issue running 2 or more pumps are a time filling or draining. No issue running one filling and one draining.

So with an existing thru-hull, a common manifold is worth considering, depending on its size and placement.

[dakota4ce]

My factory 2016 Supra SE factory system needs double the pumps. That’s why I ask how it could be rigged. But I am not really too fired up for a large project. It works fine as it, just is pokey.


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[dakota4ce]

SORRY FOR THE QUICK HIJACK!


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[MLA]

My factory 2016 Supra SE factory system needs double the pumps. That’s why I ask how it could be rigged. But I am not really too fired up for a large project. It works fine as it, just is pokey.


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We've done similar on other brands, where we've added an extra pump for each sac, when we've upgraded to larger sacs. Basically doubles the flow rate. As long as there is an unused port on the sac thats in the appropriate spot. Best to give the 2nd pump its own sac fitting to fill/drain from.

[dakota4ce]

Great to know. I may do this while I have it in garage. I will scout for locations for pumps. It has subfloor hard tank too that fills. Will have to check out the plumbing setup to see where I could add.


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[MGX]

All,

I plan to use the black friday deals to upgrade my 2007 LSV from G1 system (just the belly bag on aerator pump) to full reversible system. Here is my plan:

- 3 of the wake makers 720 reversible complete ballast upgrade kits
- I plan to tie the belly bag and IBS together on same pump since belly 400 + IBS 750 ~= one 1100 rear bag so fill times should be similar?
- plan to add a fuse block under driver helm to power all pumps.

I have a couple questions.

1.) Can I use the current through hull from G1 system (which I believe has a scupper cover) so I only have to drill 2 more in bilge?
2.) Wakemakers said draining below the water line and using the timer modules to automatically shut off pumps after a set amount of time is preferable to draining above the water line. Thoughts?

Any other tips you guys have would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chad

Planning on the same upgrade. My mind is not made up on leaving the ski locker bag on the current pumps and having the IBS on it's own reversible pumps or piggy backing the IBS on the ski locker with a reversible pump. Option #2 would save on a bit of money and labour; I would send water to the IBS from the forward port on the ski locker bag and T it into both legs of the IBS, that would make the IBS drain completely. I would reuse the thru haul from the ski locker to vent the piggy back from the top of the IBS. I hope it wouldn't slow down the fill time too much vs option #1.

Any opinions on either plan would be appreciated.

[crr1876]

Planning on the same upgrade. My mind is not made up on leaving the ski locker bag on the current pumps and having the IBS on it's own reversible pumps or piggy backing the IBS on the ski locker with a reversible pump. Option #2 would save on a bit of money and labour; I would send water to the IBS from the forward port on the ski locker bag and T it into both legs of the IBS, that would make the IBS drain completely. I would reuse the thru haul from the ski locker to vent the piggy back from the top of the IBS. I hope it wouldn't slow down the fill time too much vs option #1.

Any opinions on either plan would be appreciated.

I hadn’t thought of keeping the aerator pump system functioning to fill belly bag independently. The bilge would sure feel pretty cluttered I think.


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[crr1876]

1) discard the scupper, even if it means installing a new mushroom. What size is the existing thru-hull. A single thru-hull of the proper size can feed 3 pumps. A thru-hull of proper size can feed 2. This cuts down on bronze hardware and holes in the boat.

2) I do not suggest above the water draining with reversible pumps. Too much extra plumbing and its inefficient at best.

When you say discard the scupper what do you mean? Should I pull the whole thing out and try to put a mushroom in the existing hole or just leave it in and close the ball valve?


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[MGX]

I hadn’t thought of keeping the aerator pump system functioning to fill belly bag independently. The bilge would sure feel pretty cluttered I think.


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Looking at the pictures from Wakemakers for pump placement they put two on the rear of the engine compartment and the third would have to find a home somewhere or put the third reversible pump where the aerator is and move the aerator to a new location on top of a new intake. I'm starting to lean towards doing a piggy back with a reversible pump. Might add a couple of minutes but it will mean less holes in the boat and a few more bucks left in my pockets.

[parrothd]

When you say discard the scupper what do you mean? Should I pull the whole thing out and try to put a mushroom in the existing hole or just leave it in and close the ball valve?


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Just cut the scupper part off, use a dremel tool, or die grinder, no reason to remove it.

[parrothd]

Looking at the pictures from Wakemakers for pump placement they put two on the rear of the engine compartment and the third would have to find a home somewhere or put the third reversible pump where the aerator is and move the aerator to a new location on top of a new intake. I'm starting to lean towards doing a piggy back with a reversible pump. Might add a couple of minutes but it will mean less holes in the boat and a few more bucks left in my pockets.

Just buy 2 reversible kits and use the aerator pump to fill one of the rear bags. Use a reversable for the center bag, that way you can plumb in an ibs into the center bag. After a season of messing around with the remaining aerator pump you'll rip it out too.. Lol..

[MGX]

Just buy 2 reversible kits and use the aerator pump to fill one of the rear bags. Use a reversable for the center bag, that way you can plumb in an ibs into the center bag. After a season of messing around with the remaining aerator pump you'll rip it out too.. Lol..

They sell a kit with 3 reversible pumps. Either I keep the one aerator or rip it out. Either way it's 3 reversible pumps coming up!

[MLA]

When you say discard the scupper what do you mean? Should I pull the whole thing out and try to put a mushroom in the existing hole or just leave it in and close the ball valve?


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The scupper, like what the engine's raw water system uses, will force water in when the boat is at speed. This will likely push past the impellers, creating passive filling. dont know if you model has a one piece scoop/thru-hull or a 2 piece. Either way, the scoop needs to go.

[gregski]

My mind is not made up on leaving the ski locker bag on the current pumps and having the IBS on it's own reversible pumps or piggy backing the IBS on the ski locker with a reversible pump. Option #2 would save on a bit of money and labour; I would send water to the IBS from the forward port on the ski locker bag and T it into both legs of the IBS, that would make the IBS drain completely. I would reuse the thru haul from the ski locker to vent the piggy back from the top of the IBS. I hope it wouldn't slow down the fill time too much vs option #1.
I set up the "piggy-back" option like you described (but you don't have to use the "front" port, any will do). The ski locker/IBS combo fills faster than the rear lockers on ours.

[MGX]

I set up the "piggy-back" option like you described (but you don't have to use the "front" port, any will do). The ski locker/IBS combo fills faster than the rear lockers on ours.

What are you running for pumps and hose size? Did you T into both IBS legs? How did you vent the piggy back?

[gregski]

What are you running for pumps and hose size? Did you T into both IBS legs? How did you vent the piggy back?
Johnson Ultra Ballast Pumps, 1" hose.

When I installed the IBS, I pulled the vent from the ski locker and put it on the front/center port of the IBS (it reached with no modifications). Then I added a hose from the ski locker (what was the vent port) to the IBS back leg port. It was pretty easy.

Currently, I'm just plumbed in one leg of the IBS. At the end of the day, there is a little bit of water trapped in the opposite leg but we just "lift the leg" and drain it :). I think that decelerating and coming off plane pushes any leftover water forward and then at least half of that drains, I'm kinda surprised how much does drain - we probably only have a couple of gallons of water left. I've been meaning to add a T to the other side but it hasn't been enough of an issue to move it up in priority.

[996scott]

The scupper, like what the engine's raw water system uses, will force water in when the boat is at speed. This will likely push past the impellers, creating passive filling. dont know if you model has a one piece scoop/thru-hull or a 2 piece. Either way, the scoop needs to go.

This is exactly what happens. Drives me crazy that I keep having to drain the one bag from time to time. Not the end of the world but it sounds like it need to replace it with a mushroom style like the others or cut it down.

[crr1876]

Johnson Ultra Ballast Pumps, 1" hose.

When I installed the IBS, I pulled the vent from the ski locker and put it on the front/center port of the IBS (it reached with no modifications). Then I added a hose from the ski locker (what was the vent port) to the IBS back leg port. It was pretty easy.

Currently, I'm just plumbed in one leg of the IBS. At the end of the day, there is a little bit of water trapped in the opposite leg but we just "lift the leg" and drain it :). I think that decelerating and coming off plane pushes any leftover water forward and then at least half of that drains, I'm kinda surprised how much does drain - we probably only have a couple of gallons of water left. I've been meaning to add a T to the other side but it hasn't been enough of an issue to move it up in priority.

Do you have an independent thru Hull for each pump? Also, did you have a scupper on your old G1/G3 system and what did you do with it?


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[kaneboats]

This is exactly what happens. Drives me crazy that I keep having to drain the one bag from time to time. Not the end of the world but it sounds like it need to replace it with a mushroom style like the others or cut it down.

Buy one of Trayson's motorized valves. Solves this for cheap.

[MGX]

Johnson Ultra Ballast Pumps, 1" hose.

When I installed the IBS, I pulled the vent from the ski locker and put it on the front/center port of the IBS (it reached with no modifications). Then I added a hose from the ski locker (what was the vent port) to the IBS back leg port. It was pretty easy.

Currently, I'm just plumbed in one leg of the IBS. At the end of the day, there is a little bit of water trapped in the opposite leg but we just "lift the leg" and drain it :). I think that decelerating and coming off plane pushes any leftover water forward and then at least half of that drains, I'm kinda surprised how much does drain - we probably only have a couple of gallons of water left. I've been meaning to add a T to the other side but it hasn't been enough of an issue to move it up in priority.

Thanks for the info!


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[gregski]

Do you have an independent thru Hull for each pump? Also, did you have a scupper on your old G1/G3 system and what did you do with it?


Yes, I reused the scupper through hull for one of the pumps (actually the center/IBS pump). It did force fill a bit, until I ground off the scupper part with an angle grinder. It's easy to remove since it's soft bronze. Even the force filling wasn't too bad, just a minor annoyance.

[996scott]

So I replaced my old system with the upgraded wakemakers reversible pumps on my 07 LSV. It really isn't a tough job, just take a little time is all. I reused the original through hull for one bag and then drilled 2 new ones for the other two pumps. I ran one pump to the bag in the floor of the boat (ski locker) and then ran another hose from that bag (the vent line) up to the IBS bag in the bow to fill it. Then I ran a vent line from the IBS out the side of the bag where the old vent was. Hopefully that makes sense. I mounted all 3 pumps in the engine compartment which was pretty easy. I can take pictures if you want to see where they are. The electrical switches are pretty easy to connect as well. I love the system and think it's a great upgrade.

[crr1876]

Yes, I reused the scupper through hull for one of the pumps (actually the center/IBS pump). It did force fill a bit, until I ground off the scupper part with an angle grinder. It's easy to remove since it's soft bronze. Even the force filling wasn't too bad, just a minor annoyance.

Sound easy enough, maybe a dremel is on my Xmas list now hah!


So I replaced my old system with the upgraded wakemakers reversible pumps on my 07 LSV. It really isn't a tough job, just take a little time is all. I reused the original through hull for one bag and then drilled 2 new ones for the other two pumps. I ran one pump to the bag in the floor of the boat (ski locker) and then ran another hose from that bag (the vent line) up to the IBS bag in the bow to fill it. Then I ran a vent line from the IBS out the side of the bag where the old vent was. Hopefully that makes sense. I mounted all 3 pumps in the engine compartment which was pretty easy. I can take pictures if you want to see where they are. The electrical switches are pretty easy to connect as well. I love the system and think it's a great upgrade.

I sure would be interested in seeing how you mounted those pumps if the boat is accessible and it isn’t too much trouble!

Thank you to everyone for all your advice and input! Like I’ve seen said many times before, this forum makes me proud to have a Moomba!


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[crr1876]

26548https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171213/3795882c03489b0ea193d8340216b0b1.jpg

Here is a pic of my scupper thru Hull. I’m trying to decide if I should try and cut off the “scupper” part or try and remove it and replace with a mushroom style?

Has anyone successfully removed and replaced one? It seems like the gel coat has a lip on it inside the scupper cover from my photos.


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[parrothd]

Yep... Just use a dremel or cutting wheel and cut the "hump" part off at the base there, you'll leave the ring part with the screws untouched. It's brass and cuts easily. You just want to make it flat, doesn't need to be perfect, I round the edge of my cut so it's not sharp just incase. It doesn't need to be totally flat, you can have a lip left if you can't get that close.. 😀

[JHutch]

I am interested in this as well. Any pictures of one cut down? I don't think removing it is a viable option.

[996scott]

I just cut mine down last week and it was pretty easy. Didn't worry about getting things too perfect. I will try and get a picture. I didn't think trying to remove it was worth the time and hassle, it's not like anyone sees it under the boat.

[crr1876]

Sounds like I’ll just cut it as well. Good reason to buy a Dremel.

Has anyone reading this plumbed a fill/drain line to the second leg of IBS? I saw someone mention some residual water getting left and having to “lift the leg”, was thinking a y connector would be the easiest way to get this done just curious how you actually routed the hose in the boat? My guess was around the bow along the IBS bag.


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[MGX]

Sounds like I’ll just cut it as well. Good reason to buy a Dremel.

Has anyone reading this plumbed a fill/drain line to the second leg of IBS? I saw someone mention some residual water getting left and having to “lift the leg”, was thinking a y connector would be the easiest way to get this done just curious how you actually routed the hose in the boat? My guess was around the bow along the IBS bag.

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My plan is to do this: Y off to the center bag and come up thru the floor by each IBS leg.

[crr1876]

My plan is to do this: Y off to the center bag and come up thru the floor by each IBS leg.

So how do you plan to route the hose for the port side leg of IBS? What I’m thinking is either come up through the hole where battery cables run in passenger compartment or come up under helm on starboard side then y and run second line around front of bow/IBS that way?


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[parrothd]

So how do you plan to route the hose for the port side leg of IBS? What I’m thinking is either come up through the hole where battery cables run in passenger compartment or come up under helm on starboard side then y and run second line around front of bow/IBS that way?


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The y is not needed, make sure to buy check valves, the bags will be sucked dry. There may be a tiny amount in one side or the other but not worth the hassle.

[MGX]

My boat is in storage so there plan might change when I do the work in the Spring but I plan on a Y pretty close to the bag and separate lines to the IBS legs via there shortest route possible. Might have to drill holes in the floor. Right now I have lines going from the ski locker bag the l to the IBS thru the hole where there battery cables run and under under the console. One files and the other drains


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[gregski]

or come up under helm on starboard side then y and run second line around front of bow/IBS that way?
That wouldn't actually do anything for you... (it wouldn't be any different than the IBS itself - if water is trapped in the port side of the IBS it would be trapped in a hose running along the same path). You'd have to go with your first option

[996scott]

I am interested in this as well. Any pictures of one cut down? I don't think removing it is a viable option.

here is what mine looks like after cutting it down.

[crr1876]

That wouldn't actually do anything for you... (it wouldn't be any different than the IBS itself - if water is trapped in the port side of the IBS it would be trapped in a hose running along the same path). You'd have to go with your first option

That makes sense now that you mention it.

Thanks for the pics of your cut down scupper I think that’s the route I’ll go as well.


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[crr1876]

Started the ballast upgrade today, took out my GI system and drilled new thru hulls and vent holes.

26623

For those of you who removed your old sprinkler setup did you worry about removing the wiring or just left it in place? Seems like a pain to cut all those zip ties and get it all out of that corrugated plastic running to the helm.


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[rdlangston13]

Started the ballast upgrade today, took out my GI system and drilled new thru hulls and vent holes.

26623

For those of you who removed your old sprinkler setup did you worry about removing the wiring or just left it in place? Seems like a pain to cut all those zip ties and get it all out of that corrugated plastic running to the helm.


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I just left it there, it wasn't connected to anything so there was no power going to any of it. I saw no reason to go through the effort of removing it.

[996scott]

I left mine there as well for the first year I think. The next year I was doing some work under the dash replacing a speedo and I just decided to clean things up and take it all out. It was kind of a pain but not too bad. Just leave it for now I would say

[Poison]

Did this last fall. I took the old wiring out, but I’m OCD. It’s not much of a chore when you already have the floor up and you have to rewire the switches anyway.

Won’t matter much either way. Just have to cut some zip ties and replace them when the new wires are in.


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[crr1876]

Thanks guys. I traced all the wiring and realized I have to cut the zip ties anyway to pull out the old 3/4” fill line and make way for 1” fill line!

So a couple questions I came across today.

I did not want to hard wire all three reversible pumps to the battery as I thought that seemed messy and already don’t like how many wires are in the port storage. So instead I bought this:

26624

I currently have this under the helm and was planning to swap them

26625

26626

Anybody see any problem with this? Not sure what all is wired on there currently, will have to figure that out. The red wire that runs from my Perko common stud to that current distribution bar has this circuit breaker in it

26627

I realize each of these reversible pumps draws 15-20 amps and I have 3 so could anyone recommend an upgrade?? Honestly the guy I spoke to at WakeMAKERS told me an in-line fuse before that blue sea distribution block was overkill and not necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.




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[parrothd]

That breaker is only 50 amps so it may trip on pump startup if you kick all pumps on at the same time. Just turn each pump on separately, not all at once. I've used that fuse box before, since you already have the power terminal I'd just use it and return the fuse panel. Save yourself some work, also you may want to use breakers instead of fuses. They don't fit in that fuse box. I have these, they reset automatically. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB222-15-Automotive-Mounting-Connection/dp/B004AH6QH0/ref=sr_1_22?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517278756&sr=1-22&keywords=ATC%2B20%2Bfuse%2Bbreaker&th=1

[MJHSupra]

When I did my pump upgrade years ago, I bought a new blue-sea buss dual bar under the helm - not the same one you purchased. I used it for the 3 pumps and my LEDs. Picked a good size wire gauge and used a circuit breaker.

Battery > Surface Mount Circuit Breaker (not sure of the size) > Buss Bar
Buss Bar > Inline Fuse (30a) > Switches.

I think the pumps have a spike of 20-30a when they are first turned-on.

[MLA]

Thanks guys. I traced all the wiring and realized I have to cut the zip ties anyway to pull out the old 3/4” fill line and make way for 1” fill line!

So a couple questions I came across today.

I did not want to hard wire all three reversible pumps to the battery as I thought that seemed messy and already don’t like how many wires are in the port storage. So instead I bought this:

26624

I currently have this under the helm and was planning to swap them

26625

26626

Anybody see any problem with this? Not sure what all is wired on there currently, will have to figure that out. The red wire that runs from my Perko common stud to that current distribution bar has this circuit breaker in it

26627

I realize each of these reversible pumps draws 15-20 amps and I have 3 so could anyone recommend an upgrade?? Honestly the guy I spoke to at WakeMAKERS told me an in-line fuse before that blue sea distribution block was overkill and not necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.




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You are adding a potential of 60 amps more draw to the helm BUS circuit. Swapping from a BUS bar to that blue sea system fuse block does nothing to address this. Anyway you slice it, you are still adding up to 60A more draw.

[crr1876]

You are adding a potential of 60 amps more draw to the helm BUS circuit. Swapping from a BUS bar to that blue sea system fuse block does nothing to address this. Anyway you slice it, you are still adding up to 60A more draw.

So are you suggesting I swap out the 45amp circuit breaker for a larger 100amp like this?

26628

Would I need to go with a thicker gauge wire as well? My electrical knowledge is terrible please forgive me.


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[crr1876]

That breaker is only 50 amps so it may trip on pump startup if you kick all pumps on at the same time. Just turn each pump on separately, not all at once. I've used that fuse box before, since you already have the power terminal I'd just use it and return the fuse panel. Save yourself some work, also you may want to use breakers instead of fuses. They don't fit in that fuse box. I have these, they reset automatically. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB222-15-Automotive-Mounting-Connection/dp/B004AH6QH0/ref=sr_1_22?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517278756&sr=1-22&keywords=ATC%2B20%2Bfuse%2Bbreaker&th=1

So do you have those in an in-line fuse like what comes with the kit? Curious how your wiring runs from the battery to your switch if you don’t mind.


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[MLA]

So are you suggesting I swap out the 45amp circuit breaker for a larger 100amp like this?

26628

Would I need to go with a thicker gauge wire as well? My electrical knowledge is terrible please forgive me.


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You need to take the entire circuit into account. Even with the blue sea fuse box installed, the entire system is still fed with the same size cabling but now with a potential of 60 amp more draw. Those factor BUS bars are fine, its the supply cables you need to account for.

Those blue sea fuse boxes are great, I use them all the time, but making this swap does not solve your real issue here. I know I did not give you a specific answer, sorry, theres a couple puzzle pieces missing for me to do that, but youve now got some inf that will allow you to actually solve this on your own.

[parrothd]

So do you have those in an in-line fuse like what comes with the kit? Curious how your wiring runs from the battery to your switch if you donÂ’t mind.


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My first 2 installs I added new fuse boxes, the last install I used the wakemakers kit with the inline fuse. Much easier. I replaced the standard fuses with breakers(amazon link). On startup each pump can draw 20-30amps, depending how long they've been idle, the longer the more they stick. This will blow most fuses. I use the fuse breakers because they reset automatically. If you have other accessories(heater?) on that bus bar you can overload the 50amp breaker. If you make sure to turn each pump on separately you should be fine. Everyone once in a while I hit them all at once and pop the 50amp breaker. You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

[gregski]

You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.
This is the key. A fuse/breaker protects the wiring and connected components. You can't just increase the breaker/fuse size and call it a day without also being sure that all wiring and components are capable of carrying that full current. You could try to live with the 50A overall limit like parrothd described which might just (barely) work, otherwise you need some bigger cable (there's a lot of factors: I'd use 2 AWG, but 4 AWG is probably OK too). Now, if you are running new cable, I'd probably just leave the existing setup alone unless there was a compelling reason to change it...

[parrothd]

I'm pretty sure I have the same 50amp breaker but I have 4 pumps. I can run them all at the same time with the heater, but it'll pop if I start them all at the same time.

[crr1876]

My first 2 installs I added new fuse boxes, the last install I used the wakemakers kit with the inline fuse. Much easier. I replaced the standard fuses with breakers(amazon link). On startup each pump can draw 20-30amps, depending how long they've been idle, the longer the more they stick. This will blow most fuses. I use the fuse breakers because they reset automatically. If you have other accessories(heater?) on that bus bar you can overload the 50amp breaker. If you make sure to turn each pump on separately you should be fine. Everyone once in a while I hit them all at once and pop the 50amp breaker. You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

So your current install with the kit do you just have all 3 wired directly on one of your batteries, then the in-line fuse breaker? I have all the wire and terminals to do it that way, just being stubborn and wanted the clean install look of a distribution block but realizing between new cable, new circuit breaker looking at 100-120 bucks and more work haha.


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[parrothd]

So your current install with the kit do you just have all 3 wired directly on one of your batteries, then the in-line fuse breaker? I have all the wire and terminals to do it that way, just being stubborn and wanted the clean install look of a distribution block but realizing between new cable, new circuit breaker looking at 100-120 bucks and more work haha.


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On my boat I have it you describe, but on my brother in laws boat the my most recent install we went with direct to the battery and used everything from the kit, fuses and all. Works fine to, if you go that route just make sure to secure the wires to the battery, you don't want them being pulled off when someone stores stuff near the battery.

[crr1876]

Just wanted to update you guys, I’m like 90% done with my install just wish the weather would cooperate better. Here are some pics of my dash before and after.

Before
26700
26701

After
26702
26703

Gotta give credit to parrothd for the idea on switch location and moving accessories around.

Couple of finishing touch questions, what did you guys use to tie up your vent lines as high as possible in the gunnels? Also did you secure your fill/drain lines with cable clamps? I was thinking of using these.

26704

Thanks guys



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[996scott]

On my boat I have it you describe, but on my brother in laws boat the my most recent install we went with direct to the battery and used everything from the kit, fuses and all. Works fine to, if you go that route just make sure to secure the wires to the battery, you don't want them being pulled off when someone stores stuff near the battery.


This is how did mine, I used the kit and wired all three directly to one of my batteries and used the inline fuses that came in the kit. I have had it installed for at least 2 or 3 yrs without any problems. I did move my switches from down low where the original switches were to up higher to the side of the drivers seat.

[parrothd]

Just wanted to update you guys, I’m like 90% done with my install just wish the weather would cooperate better. Here are some pics of my dash before and after.

Before
26700
26701

After
26702
26703

Gotta give credit to parrothd for the idea on switch location and moving accessories around.

Couple of finishing touch questions, what did you guys use to tie up your vent lines as high as possible in the gunnels? Also did you secure your fill/drain lines with cable clamps? I was thinking of using these.

26704

Thanks guys



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great!

[Leebo]

Right now I have 3 reversibles - one on the IBS and the other 2 on 1100s. I put the stock GIII on the ski locker bag and moved the old 400s under the side seats.

I’m thinking abt adding 2 reversibles for my 1100s and plumbing the second pump on each side with a wye to the old 400s I have under the side seats (rather than buy enzos and have 2 pumps into each) and pull out the GIII (hooking the ski locker bag to the IBS).

So... has anyone wired the rocker switch to run 2 reversibles? I know the draw is too much for one switch but just haven’t figured out how a relay would work. I’m trying to avoid using a second set of switches. THX!

[gregski]

So... has anyone wired the rocker switch to run 2 reversibles? I know the draw is too much for one switch but just haven’t figured out how a relay would work. I’m trying to avoid using a second set of switches. THX!
I'm not running 2 per pump but I am using relays. It's pretty easy to setup and wouldn't be hard at all to connect multiple relays up in parallel like you're thinking. The only thing to consider is if you really want 5 pumps running at one time. I certainly wouldn't want to do that on battery and the stock alternator may not be enough so you'd be somewhere in between...

[Leebo]

... I certainly wouldn't want to do that on battery and the stock alternator may not be enough so you'd be somewhere in between...

Good point on the alternator, I’m pretty sure I need to do that - probably another thread.

On the relays, are they before the switch or after? I don’t think the switch can handle the load (maybe an upgraded switch?) so I’m trying to understand how to wire relays after the reversible switch. Thx!

[gregski]

The toggle switches would drive the relay coil and the relay would switch the actual power lines to the pumps. The coil on the automotive style relay is commonly considered to be between 50-200 ohms, so you're talking 0.3A worst case scenario and you'll need 2 per pump to handle reversing - so figure 0.6A per pump (could be as low as 0.12A). Those rocker switches are rated for much more (20A?)

[Leebo]

Ok so the whole time I’m trying to figure out how to wire multiple relays after the switch in a way that allows the polarity to be reversed on a regular automotive relay


The toggle switches would drive the relay coil and the relay would switch the actual power lines to the pumps.

I think you’re telling me to use a polarity reversing relay. Something like this:

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/buyers-1306600-12v-grounded-motor-reversing-solenoid/

That would make the wiring substantially easier. Is that what you mean?

Thx!

[bsharer]

A relay like this...

26770

26771

[gregski]

Yes, like bsharer's pic and you use two of them to achieve the reversibility. Like this: https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=69928&stc=1&d=1314287250
That's not my picture so no guarantees on the contact numbering but I'd guess it's right. The relay you posted would probably work too but it's probably not ignition protected. Be sure to get ignition protected relays (expolosion proof/"marine") if it's anywhere in the bilge/engine bay and frankly, I wouldn't use non-marine relays on my boat anywhere. These are sparky components just looking for some stray fuel vapor.

[Leebo]

Perfect- that’s the diagram I was looking for. Thx!!!

[MGX]

On my current GI setup I have the IBS piggy backing off of the ski locker. I had to put in ball valves to prevent over filling the ski locker (the panel wouldn't close) and also to stop the IBS from leaking back into the ski locker. Has anyone else run into this problem? Planning the GIII upgrade in the next few weeks and debating doing a piggy back for the IBS or just keeping the GI pump for the ski locker and a reversible on the IBS.