Water separating fuel filter on Raptor Engine?

[DRHRSH]

I just finished winterizing my 16 Craz with the 400 engine. This is my 3rd boat. All my previous boats had a spin on filter for separating water from the fuel. It looked like a large oil filter. In reading the manual and searching this forum I find no mention of any such filter on this boat?

[Engine Nut]

I just finished winterizing my 16 Craz with the 400 engine. This is my 3rd boat. All my previous boats had a spin on filter for separating water from the fuel. It looked like a large oil filter. In reading the manual and searching this forum I find no mention of any such filter on this boat?

There are actually two fuel filters but neither are the spin-on type you are used to. The primary filter is in the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly. There is also an in-line filter on the engine right after the connection where the fuel line from the tank attaches to the engine. My understanding is that the filter in the tank has some water absorbing capability.

[smorris7]

There are actually two fuel filters but neither are the spin-on type you are used to. The primary filter is in the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly. There is also an in-line filter on the engine right after the connection where the fuel line from the tank attaches to the engine. My understanding is that the filter in the tank has some water absorbing capability.

What is the normal time frame on replacing either or both of these filters?


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[Engine Nut]

We recommend replacing the on-engine filter annually or every 300 hours, whichever comes first. Check the Supra Operator's Manual for their recommendation for the in-tank filter.

[KnoxMojo]

Do you have a part number and procedure for the on engine fuel filter?

[Engine Nut]

You can get the filter at NAPA P/N 3481. The most important thing to do is to relieve the fuel pressure in the system before removing the filter. Go to the fuse box on the engine and remove the cover and the two fuel pump fuses or the fuel pump relay. With the fuses or relay removed, crank the engine like you were trying to start it. The engine will crank for 8-10 seconds then stop. The engine may run briefly but not long enough to do any damage. Leave the fuses or relay out till after re-assembly.The filter is not easy to get at but you will need to put a wrench on the filter nut then loosen and remove the fuel line fittings on both ends of the filter. There will be some residual fuel in the filter so have an absorbent towel to catch any fuel. With the lines disconnected, remove the filter from the bracket.

When you reinstall the new filter make the directional arrow is pointing up. Put the filter in the bracket but don't tighten yet, install the inlet and outlet fuel lines. Leave them finger tight till you have both installed. Once both lines are installed hand-tight, use the two wrench method to tighten. The lines have O-rings so be sure the lines are snug ... but you don't have to over tighten. Tighten the filter in the bracket.

Make sure the key switch is off and reinstall the fuel pump fuses or relay that you removed earlier and reinstall the cover on the fuse block.

Have one person turn the key switch on to activate the fuel pump while the other checks for leaks. Repeat the key-up process two or three times to make sure fuel is supplied to the system and there are no leaks.

[KnoxMojo]

Most excellent write up! Very much appreciated.