Nafplio
08-30-2006, 12:32 AM
Well, after 220 hours, my LSV steering wheel got pretty hard to turn. After searching in here, I decided to replace the cable. Also, Brian Raymond gave me some good instructions. So, here is my contribution:
Brian suggested removing the floor in case the cable was tie-wrapped to other things. You remove all the screws on the floor plus 4 or 5 more in the storage compartments (these screw in sideways). The whole thing comes off then, including the driver's seat. The section behind the rear seat can also by removed by taking out a couple of screws. It's cool because you can see how everything is put together on the boat. The cable/rack assembly is attached to the steering column by four bolts. On the other end, its easier to work if you remove the panel between the engine and the large storage compartment (4 screws). You separate the cable from the rudder by removing nut and bolt. The sleeve of the cable has a hose type fitting that threads on to a piece of pipe about a foot long. You loosen the fitting and you can pull the cable through. Or, you can remove the cable with the pipe attached (what I did). The pipe is held in place by a clam shell device and 4 nuts and bolts. You attach a rope at the rudder end of the cable, cut any tie wraps, and push/pull. It comes out easily.
Reverse for installation. Before you attach the cable to the steering column, you position the rudder slightly to the right, the rack in the middle, and the steering wheel centered. When done, test drive at the lake. Hold a straight course. If the wheel is not centered, stop and separate cable/rack from steering column. Adjust steering wheel and re-attach.
Some extra things I did: I put some marine grade grease inside the pipe to help keep water out. While back there, I also added some grease to the rudder zirc fitting. With the floor removed, I cleaned the bilge and torqued down the driver's seat. Overall, it was a pretty good experience. Many thanks to members of the Moomba BB and to Brian for his help.
Brian suggested removing the floor in case the cable was tie-wrapped to other things. You remove all the screws on the floor plus 4 or 5 more in the storage compartments (these screw in sideways). The whole thing comes off then, including the driver's seat. The section behind the rear seat can also by removed by taking out a couple of screws. It's cool because you can see how everything is put together on the boat. The cable/rack assembly is attached to the steering column by four bolts. On the other end, its easier to work if you remove the panel between the engine and the large storage compartment (4 screws). You separate the cable from the rudder by removing nut and bolt. The sleeve of the cable has a hose type fitting that threads on to a piece of pipe about a foot long. You loosen the fitting and you can pull the cable through. Or, you can remove the cable with the pipe attached (what I did). The pipe is held in place by a clam shell device and 4 nuts and bolts. You attach a rope at the rudder end of the cable, cut any tie wraps, and push/pull. It comes out easily.
Reverse for installation. Before you attach the cable to the steering column, you position the rudder slightly to the right, the rack in the middle, and the steering wheel centered. When done, test drive at the lake. Hold a straight course. If the wheel is not centered, stop and separate cable/rack from steering column. Adjust steering wheel and re-attach.
Some extra things I did: I put some marine grade grease inside the pipe to help keep water out. While back there, I also added some grease to the rudder zirc fitting. With the floor removed, I cleaned the bilge and torqued down the driver's seat. Overall, it was a pretty good experience. Many thanks to members of the Moomba BB and to Brian for his help.