View Full Version : 05 LSV steering cable change

08-30-2006, 01:32 AM
Well, after 220 hours, my LSV steering wheel got pretty hard to turn. After searching in here, I decided to replace the cable. Also, Brian Raymond gave me some good instructions. So, here is my contribution:
Brian suggested removing the floor in case the cable was tie-wrapped to other things. You remove all the screws on the floor plus 4 or 5 more in the storage compartments (these screw in sideways). The whole thing comes off then, including the driver's seat. The section behind the rear seat can also by removed by taking out a couple of screws. It's cool because you can see how everything is put together on the boat. The cable/rack assembly is attached to the steering column by four bolts. On the other end, its easier to work if you remove the panel between the engine and the large storage compartment (4 screws). You separate the cable from the rudder by removing nut and bolt. The sleeve of the cable has a hose type fitting that threads on to a piece of pipe about a foot long. You loosen the fitting and you can pull the cable through. Or, you can remove the cable with the pipe attached (what I did). The pipe is held in place by a clam shell device and 4 nuts and bolts. You attach a rope at the rudder end of the cable, cut any tie wraps, and push/pull. It comes out easily.
Reverse for installation. Before you attach the cable to the steering column, you position the rudder slightly to the right, the rack in the middle, and the steering wheel centered. When done, test drive at the lake. Hold a straight course. If the wheel is not centered, stop and separate cable/rack from steering column. Adjust steering wheel and re-attach.
Some extra things I did: I put some marine grade grease inside the pipe to help keep water out. While back there, I also added some grease to the rudder zirc fitting. With the floor removed, I cleaned the bilge and torqued down the driver's seat. Overall, it was a pretty good experience. Many thanks to members of the Moomba BB and to Brian for his help.

08-30-2006, 12:13 PM
Any pictures?

I cannot understand why the center sack area does not drain well. I have gone to a wet vac when I put the boat up, the little hole in the back just does not quite drain.

If I went to that trouble - is there any room for this:


where it will stay dry?

Why wasn't that covered by warrantee?

When the cable went on my Lund, the dealer put in a heavy duty cable. Did you do that or have the option?

Thanks for the info


08-31-2006, 01:53 AM
Funny you should ask that. A little while back, one of the wakeplate system fittings developed a leak that emptied the little reservoir. Everything ended up at the ski locker. The drain there is the lowest point of the hull. After that and running the length of the gas tank, is a drain channel like a half pipe of about 1'' diameter. Above that, is a plate where the gas tank rests. The tank occupies the entire cavity down there. Any kind of debris would restrict flow. I suppose you could park the boat at a good incline and it would slowly drain. I have plugged the ski locker drain.
There is some space of 1-2 inches above the top of the tank and before the cabin floor. I wouldn't put anything down there that could produce any sort of arc. SC seems to have put a good effort in covering all the cables that run on top of the gas tank. The starter cable has its own run in a separate compartment.
The steering cable is probably a warranty item. I bought my boat slightly used from another owner. No warranty here. But I shouldn't have any more problems with the cable. From what I can tell, the weak point is at the seal between the sleeve and the cable at the rudder end. If I can keep grease there, the water should stay out. I think Butta said in a related post that he rutinely does that. The cable itself looks pretty robust. I took a few pictures that I'll try to upload on webshots tonight.

09-20-2006, 01:25 AM

My steering wheel is not moving at all, is a mobius lsv 05, can yo tell me how to buy te cable? the whole spare? part numbrer, brand, store, etc? i live in Mexico but i'm in Miami for a few days, I also have a PO box at San Ysidro, CA. My mechanic at home want to charge $800 DLLS only for the cable plus work done.


Best regards

Simon Marchina

09-20-2006, 12:34 PM
I purchased the cable from the closest SC dealer. They shipped it to my address for just over $100. If you don't have a dealer, call Scier's Choice or email techservise@skierschoice.com. It really was not that difficult to replace. It's easier to remove the floor with 2 people. $800+ is ridiculus. Good luck.