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yearround
08-24-2017, 06:56 PM
after 8.5 years of diligent pumping and regular use, my old rule 2000 pump has stopped working.

i presume it is just wore out and needs to be replaced. maybe i should check the fuses, etc before this, but i really think it is most likely the pump is gone. i do not really feel like changing out the whole system to the three pumps and intakes, etc. I just want to replace the pump.

when i started to remove the pump it will not turn full rotations because the pump discharge hits the engine/transmission. it appears that the pump and intake were assembled and installed together and was not checked for clearance. i presume i can just put a wrench on the intake and give a strong twist of maybe 1/8 rotation to get the clearance. I can't imagine that the whole thing was bottomed out when assembling. but, if it was, and I am able to twist something loose, what might it be? is the scupper on the bottom of the hull attached/screwed to the hull, or is it just connected to the intake and tightened?

i am hoping that you who have changed, replaced, played with the intake will have a fast knowledge as we have all come to depend on you for.

thank you!
todd

trayson
08-25-2017, 12:23 PM
The scupper intake is basically permanently affixed to the hull. Getting it out would be way more trouble than it's worth.

Honestly, if the pump is toast, then take something like a jobplus vibrating multitool with a cutting attachment and hack off the discharge tube. WHo cares if you mangle the pump in the process???

Then do what Kaneboats did and add a TEE and put two pumps as a replacement instead of the one. And while you're at it, ditch the sprinkler valves for the motorized ball valves. you'll see a noticeable improvement without having to completely gut you system. (I've got 2 motorized ball valves for sale for $50 shipped for both, brand new).

yearround
08-25-2017, 09:26 PM
Thanks for the info. I got the inlet to move enough to spin the pump off. I was not concerned about destroying the pump to get it off, was more curious about replacing the new one and not able to spin.

I will look into kaneboats mod. I guess he plumbed both pumps back to the valve manifold? I have not looked at the ball valve thing. I know nothing about it. So, I'll take your offer for yours. Where do i get the third?

I'll pm from FB and we can figure this out after the weekend. Have fun!

Thanks
Thanks

trayson
08-28-2017, 01:18 AM
Thanks for the info. I got the inlet to move enough to spin the pump off. I was not concerned about destroying the pump to get it off, was more curious about replacing the new one and not able to spin.

I will look into kaneboats mod. I guess he plumbed both pumps back to the valve manifold? I have not looked at the ball valve thing. I know nothing about it. So, I'll take your offer for yours. Where do i get the third?

I'll pm from FB and we can figure this out after the weekend. Have fun!

Thanks
Thanks

so it's been well established that the OEM sprinkler valve manifolds are a serious bottleneck in the flow rates of water filling the ballast bags from the one oem rule pump. Having a ball valve will allow the on/off that the sprinkler valves facilitate, but with a constant flow rate that isn't constricted. The fact that they now make electric actuated ball valves means that you can throw the sprinkler valves in the garbage and replace it with something that will increase your fill times, but still have that on/off that's needed for each zone.

What Kane did was add a 2nd pump. I'm guessing that he dedicated one pump to a certain zone and the other pump to the other two zones, but I can't remember for sure.

There's a lot of electric ball valves online. price seems to depend on how quickly you actually want them. the ones on Amazon prime are more costly than waiting 4 to 6 weeks for one to arrive from China (bought via Ebay).

But definitely hit me up. I'd love to see mine get used. :-)

jmvotto
08-28-2017, 08:21 AM
https://www.anchorexpress.com/rule-tournament-series-1600-gph-livewell-pump-209b?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkszdwfT51QIVCJBpCh0e0Q0dEAQ YBCABEgIdgPD_BwE

I did what Kane did as well but I added a fourth bags ibs switch and extra sprinkler valve on the old boat .i had boat pumps filling the main fold from each end and then I could direct the flow to what ever bag I wanted

kaneboats
08-29-2017, 09:09 AM
Well, that was Newty's mod first and I just copied him. The two pumps originally would both go to the new manifold I built. Later, I deleted the sprinkler valves and the manifold and just ran two lines to each rear bag with a check valve in each one out near the end. Works great!

Jordy Dag
10-16-2017, 01:34 PM
Not trying to hijack this post but Im up against the same thing. My rule pump is slowly dying so I have a couple questions. 1- what is the size of the suction side of the rule pump, the side that threads to the ball valve. 2-what do you recommend for a replacement pump? I was thinking a tsunami T1200. 3-Trayson, do you have an ebay link for the motorized ball valves? Thanks guys

trayson
10-16-2017, 05:29 PM
Not trying to hijack this post but Im up against the same thing. My rule pump is slowly dying so I have a couple questions. 1- what is the size of the suction side of the rule pump, the side that threads to the ball valve. 2-what do you recommend for a replacement pump? I was thinking a tsunami T1200. 3-Trayson, do you have an ebay link for the motorized ball valves? Thanks guys

I don't think the one I bought is still at the same vendor (things come and go on ebay). That said, I have 2 of them that I didn't end up using because I decided I didn't need that level of automation on the bags connected to my reversible pump). I'm still selling the pair, and it'd be less than getting them off ebay. :-D

Jordy Dag
10-16-2017, 05:41 PM
Ill give it some thought before I pull the trigger on those. Do you recall what size the inlet of the rule pump is? Im guessing its 3/4 NPT but Im unable to check at this time

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trayson
10-16-2017, 05:48 PM
Ill give it some thought before I pull the trigger on those. Do you recall what size the inlet of the rule pump is? Im guessing its 3/4 NPT but Im unable to check at this time

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That sounds right because I do know that the ball valve and the through hull and the ballast hose are all 3/4

kaneboats
10-17-2017, 01:47 PM
Yea, it's 3/4. So get a T and another shut off valve and two Tsunami 1200s that take up less space and each pump 90% of what the Rule one does.

Jordy Dag
10-18-2017, 12:24 AM
Awesome! Thanks Trayson, Kane and all! Much appreciated!

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JamesEvans
11-12-2017, 01:44 PM
If its all 3/4 npt, the smallest tsunami 1200 inlet is 1" npt. Will you have to have an adapter for the pumps to make it work? Working on replacing the rule 2000 myself also. My factory manifold is 1", and I am planning on plumbing in the pumps to each end of the manifold and replace the sprinklers with electric ball valves. With the 1200s I can feed the manifold with 1" lines, if I go with the 800s I have to use 3/4" manifold feed lines.
Id like to run the 1200s, but have no idea how to make it happen. Boat is in hibernation, so I can't get to it or into it till spring...but like to have everything here ready to install come springtime.

MLA
11-12-2017, 06:38 PM
replace the sprinklers with electric ball valves.

With the right design, neither is needed. Can reduce boat cost an flow restriction.

yearround
11-13-2017, 02:02 PM
I replaced the pump with one from SC. maybe this winter i will get in and change the manifold etc. I have been fine with the fill times for using the original method. maybe i will try and match my 67 ski days of last winter.

JamesEvans
11-29-2017, 07:43 PM
I got a brass reducing tee, 3/4 on the T portion, and 1" on the main run. Have 2 1" ball valves to put on the T and ordered 2 Tsunami 1200s to feed the manifold, and jettisoning the sprinkler valves for 3 1" electric motorized ball valves. Ditching the strainer as I boat on clean water. Going to test it in the spring, but may end up changing the 3/4" hose to the rear 750s to 1" if needed to cut down the fill time.

trayson
11-29-2017, 07:56 PM
I got a brass reducing tee, 3/4 on the T portion, and 1" on the main run. Have 2 1" ball valves to put on the T and ordered 2 Tsunami 1200s to feed the manifold, and jettisoning the sprinkler valves for 3 1" electric motorized ball valves. Ditching the strainer as I boat on clean water. Going to test it in the spring, but may end up changing the 3/4" hose to the rear 750s to 1" if needed to cut down the fill time.

changing out the hose is easy on the rear bags as the run is simple and straightforward. I did that and don't regret it at all.

Also, are you going to upgrade your drain pumps? Those would be easy to upgrade as well.

JamesEvans
11-29-2017, 08:47 PM
changing out the hose is easy on the rear bags as the run is simple and straightforward. I did that and don't regret it at all.

Also, are you going to upgrade your drain pumps? Those would be easy to upgrade as well.I lost the port rear end of season. Have a 800 on the way. Hit the wakemakers black Friday sale on a few things. The other two are Factory pumps. The center pump drains relatively quick however the other rear drains painfully slow. The center pump Outlet is straight up whereas the rear the pump is located upside down by the factory. I am going to remount the rear drain pumps to where the outlet is up and hopefully it will pump like the center drain does

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