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rvette
07-25-2017, 01:12 PM
Did a general search and found info on single axle trailer tongue height but nothing on dual axle. Anyone have that info readily available? Thanks.

mcdye
07-25-2017, 02:49 PM
if this helps, typically the single axle has 15" wheels and a dual has 14".

MLA
07-25-2017, 04:23 PM
Are you trying to choose a proper receiver?

rvette
07-26-2017, 10:22 AM
I am aware that the dual axle has 14" wheels. Yes, I am wanting to upgrade my receiver. Currently using a 3/4" rise but still appears to be 2-3" below level when attached to tow vehicle.
Boat and trailer is in storage 250 miles away and wanted to upgrade for next trip.

kaneboats
07-26-2017, 10:51 AM
I understand where you are coming from but have you considered that it might be better to modify your vehicle? Not sure what make/model you are running but several of us on here have installed aftermarket air lift kits. Many of these are fairly cheap and easy to install. This is the one I have put on both of my Chevy Suburbans with fantastic results. Good luck!

https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehicles/chevrolet/suburban-1500/2008/

MLA
07-26-2017, 11:25 AM
If you tow rig does NOT have auto-level, its real simple to determine the proper receiver, just takes a little time.

Park the rig on a flat level parking lot, block the trailer wheels and disconnect it from the ball and pull forward just enough to clear the coupler

Using a tape, level the trailer with the jack by measure at the end of the trailer and in front the front axle about the same distance until the trailer is as level as you can get it. say 4 feet back of the back axle measures the same distance from the bottom of the frame to ground as it does 4 feet in front of the front axle. Now look at the coupler and ball. Figure the receiver rise or drop that would be needed for them to mate up, then add 1.5"-2" rise (or subtract drop) to offset some sag with the tongue weight.

if you typically have the back of the tow rig loaded when you trailer the boat, toss some sand or cement bags back there to pr-sag the rig. This gets the trailer level when loaded for the trips.

If you have auto level, you dont need to unhook, just figure out the rise or drop of the receiver to make the trailer level.

rvette
07-26-2017, 01:02 PM
I appreciate everyone telling me options on how to level. I figured several of you have done this process and would know what the level tongue height would be. I can do all of those things if I had the boat and trailer here, which I do not. I guess I will wait until I do.

zabooda
07-26-2017, 02:21 PM
Buy some receivers that may work and take back the ones you didn't use.

gregski
07-26-2017, 03:39 PM
Or just get an adjustable height receiver.

wolfeman131
07-26-2017, 03:42 PM
I appreciate everyone telling me options on how to level. I figured several of you have done this process and would know what the level tongue height would be. I can do all of those things if I had the boat and trailer here, which I do not. I guess I will wait until I do.

why don't you just order one of these:

http://www.trimaxlocks.com/tow-hitches/adjustable-tow-hitches/aluminum-6-adjustable-hitch.html

kaneboats
07-27-2017, 10:45 AM
I'll answer that for him:

$224.99

bluice311
07-27-2017, 11:12 AM
Pet peeve of mine but it also makes a HUGE difference when asking about and ordering parts. Are you wanting a new receiver or a new hitch? The receiver is permanently attached to the vehicle frame, whereas the hitch it removable from the receiver. My Andersen Rapid Hitch has worked great! I used it on a lowered Tundra (rise configuration) and now on a lifted F250 (drop configuration), pulling 5 different trailers/heights. I went with Andersen because it gave the greatest range of rise/drop options (as compared to B&W Tow&Stow). One benefit of the B&W is that it can rotate out of the way when not in use; saves some length on your vehicle and protects your shins haha

kaneboats
07-27-2017, 11:14 AM
Ha ha ha ha ha. He's talking about a hitch, of course. To be more specific, he's talking about a ball mount that goes in the receiver.

wolfeman131
07-27-2017, 12:22 PM
I'll answer that for him:

$224.99

been some of the best $$ I've spent! can pull all the different trailers & works on all the tow vehicles.

kaneboats
07-27-2017, 03:59 PM
It's great for you guys that get new trucks and new boats every year. ;)

MLA
07-27-2017, 04:26 PM
Pet peeve of mine but it also makes a HUGE difference when asking about and ordering parts. Are you wanting a new receiver or a new hitch? The receiver is permanently attached to the vehicle frame, whereas the hitch it removable from the receiver. My Andersen Rapid Hitch has worked great! I used it on a lowered Tundra (rise configuration) and now on a lifted F250 (drop configuration), pulling 5 different trailers/heights. I went with Andersen because it gave the greatest range of rise/drop options (as compared to B&W Tow&Stow). One benefit of the B&W is that it can rotate out of the way when not in use; saves some length on your vehicle and protects your shins haha

You are correct, the draw bar, is the more accurate term to describe the parts that slides in and is locked with a pin.

Pound
07-27-2017, 04:33 PM
Pet peeve of mine but it also makes a HUGE difference when asking about and ordering parts. Are you wanting a new receiver or a new hitch? The receiver is permanently attached to the vehicle frame, whereas the hitch it removable from the receiver. My Andersen Rapid Hitch has worked great! I used it on a lowered Tundra

I stopped reading after lowered Tundra. lol. Just kidding.

bluice311
07-28-2017, 11:05 AM
I stopped reading after lowered Tundra. lol. Just kidding.

Haha, it was a nice comfortable ride for a street "vehicle". The first time we tried pulling the Moomba out of the water and the truck started going back down the ramp it was gone by the next weekend for a real "truck"