17 Mojo Stereo Setup!

[rdlangston13]

Ok so I know the boat won't be here for a month but I want to be ready when it does arrive. Just placed an order with Earmark in Plano, TX for the following.

2 Pair of Rev10s with the RGB led rings
SD2 amp to push those bad boys
SD6 amp to push my cabins and sub
XS12 sub
WS420EQ
WS A link

Plan to use www.caraudiofabrication.com for a good sub box design that Cody and I can build ourselves to put that WS sub in. I'm pumped to hear how this thing is going to sound!

Any tips on how to install stuff and run wires on these new mojos is welcome!


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[David Analog]

That is a SERIOUS system. Be sure to post your subwoofer enclosure design before the build. Odin will be an excellent technical resource.

[rdlangston13]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170430/f844d6370bff1f92529681eec14220b1.jpg

Now if only I had a boat for all this!


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[rdlangston13]

So the local dealer has said they have had bad luck with WS420eqs producing feedback. I don't want to battle this so I was wondering, what's the best set up to prevent feedback issues or those of you who installed a 420 and had feedback, how did you fix it?


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[David Analog]

First, there really isn't an issue specifically with the 420 EQ and feedback. If you have motor noise it can be avoided by the correct installation execution, first, the wiring scheme, and second, system tuning. David, the biggest issue is that people know to use a single physical B+ supply point and a single physical ground point for all audio gear in the signal path, however, they often exclude the factory source unit from the same rule.

[rdlangston13]

First, there really isn't an issue specifically with the 420 EQ and feedback. If you have motor noise it can be avoided by the correct installation execution, first, the wiring scheme, and second, system tuning. David, the biggest issue is that people know to use a single physical B+ supply point and a single physical ground point for all audio gear in the signal path, however, they often exclude the factory source unit from the same rule.

Yeah I wasn't implying that the 420 had an issue. I knew it had to be an installation issue. So best thing to do is run the power and ground for every stereo component back to the battery?


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[EarmarkMarine]

Yeah I wasn't implying that the 420 had an issue. I knew it had to be an installation issue. So best thing to do is run the power and ground for every stereo component back to the battery?


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There are 3 issues to the noise problem that people often have when adding an EQ to a towboat.

First, you are adding another device in the signal path and another gain stage before the amplifier. If the input sensitivity is properly matched between radio and EQ, and EQ and amplifier, then you will greatly reduce your potential for noise.

Second is the issue that David mentioned, you MUST make sure that ALL power and ground connections in the audio system (radio, EQ, line driver, amplifiers, etc) are isolated to the stereo battery bank, and all boat electronics (especially LED controllers) are isolated to the house battery bank.

Third, most of the time when people are adding a device like the Wet Sounds EQ, they are doing it specifically to get independent level control of the tower zone versus interior zone. And that often means they are running HLCD speakers on the tower. The horn on a HLCD speaker is dramatically more efficient than any other speaker in the boat and it is designed to reproduce high frequencies. When you have an audio system with a signal path that includes multiple gain stages before the amplifier, then amplified through a high powered amplifier, then sent out to a speaker that is maybe 10db more efficient than the rest of the system, you're going to hear it if you have a problem. The noise floor is often higher than it should be due to poorly matched gains on the radio/eq/amplifier, but with amplified HLCD drivers it's not uncommon to hear some ambient background "hiss" when there is no music playing. Sometimes this can be tuned out, sometimes it cannot be completely eliminated, there are many variables at work.

[rdlangston13]

There are 3 issues to the noise problem that people often have when adding an EQ to a towboat.

First, you are adding another device in the signal path and another gain stage before the amplifier. If the input sensitivity is properly matched between radio and EQ, and EQ and amplifier, then you will greatly reduce your potential for noise.

Second is the issue that David mentioned, you MUST make sure that ALL power and ground connections in the audio system (radio, EQ, line driver, amplifiers, etc) are isolated to the stereo battery bank, and all boat electronics (especially LED controllers) are isolated to the house battery bank.

Third, most of the time when people are adding a device like the Wet Sounds EQ, they are doing it specifically to get independent level control of the tower zone versus interior zone. And that often means they are running HLCD speakers on the tower. The horn on a HLCD speaker is dramatically more efficient than any other speaker in the boat and it is designed to reproduce high frequencies. When you have an audio system with a signal path that includes multiple gain stages before the amplifier, then amplified through a high powered amplifier, then sent out to a speaker that is maybe 10db more efficient than the rest of the system, you're going to hear it if you have a problem. The noise floor is often higher than it should be due to poorly matched gains on the radio/eq/amplifier, but with amplified HLCD drivers it's not uncommon to hear some ambient background "hiss" when there is no music playing. Sometimes this can be tuned out, sometimes it cannot be completely eliminated, there are many variables at work.

Ok, I'll draw up how I plan to wire it all together and post it on here for any feedback. I have a month or so to plan this all out.


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[New Guy]

I'm running one and I have zero issues. The quality of RCA plays into it as well. I went with the best Stinger ones.

[David Analog]

Yeah I wasn't implying that the 420 had an issue. I knew it had to be an installation issue. So best thing to do is run the power and ground for every stereo component back to the battery?


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Yes David, that is correct. Depending on the scheme, the common points may be battery-direct or to distribution blocks. Odin will dial you in based on your specific scheme.

[rdlangston13]

Here is a make shift wiring diagram i mocked up of the power wire runs. The main power wires from the batteries to the switch to the distribution block with be 1/0 Gauge. Coming off of the block to the amps I am running 4 gauge. I am curious on the set up of the stock distribution block and if it will support my loads I will be using. Trying to decide what type of battery switch i want to go with as well. Plan is to run 4 sets of 12 gauge speaker wire to the tower for the Rev10s and 10 gauge to the sub, or will 12 gauge be sufficient for the sub as well? Also, what is the best way to connect two 12 gauge wires to one terminal of the SD2?

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m523/rdlangston13/Stereo%20Wiring%20Diagram_zpsrpmimtca.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/rdlangston13/media/Stereo%20Wiring%20Diagram_zpsrpmimtca.jpg.html)

[Woody929]

Why are you running that many grounds back to the GC battery, why not use your ground distribution block. I see the same thing on your relay, unless you're trying to bypass the switch altogether.
Also I would think tying your cranking battery ground into your audio batteries is asking for noise. Isolation...

[dusty2221]

I run power from the hu and 420 to the distro block that powers the amps. Same for ground.

This eliminates a ton of connections on the cramped post of the battery switch.

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[rdlangston13]

Why are you running that many grounds back to the GC battery, why not use your ground distribution block. I see the same thing on your relay, unless you're trying to bypass the switch altogether.
Also I would think tying your cranking battery ground into your audio batteries is asking for noise. Isolation...

I'm planning on grounding the batteries together so when the switch is the combined/both position the alternator will provide juice for the stereo so I won't be running the stereo solely off of batteries for a whole weekend.

On the distribution block, what would I need that has ports small enough for a remote turn on relay and at the same time
Large enough for amps? Or should I run a small distribution block for the small current items off of a port from large distribution block?


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[Woody929]

I'm planning on grounding the batteries together so when the switch is the combined/both position the alternator will provide juice for the stereo so I won't be running the stereo solely off of batteries for a whole weekend.

On the distribution block, what would I need that has ports small enough for a remote turn on relay and at the same time
Large enough for amps? Or should I run a small distribution block for the small current items off of a port from large distribution block?


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I use 2 of these. 1 each for +/-

Blue Sea Systems 10 Gang Common 150A Busbar with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PB.bzbDZSYBTS

And I expect someone to say something about the alternator charging.

[MLA]

And I expect someone to say something about the alternator charging.

What do you want me to say?

[rdlangston13]

Any suggestions on a fused distribution block that has 4 gauge outs as well as 18??


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[David Analog]

Ignore the busbar amperage ratings and do not substitute a slight busbar for a heavy power distribution block. When using heavy gauge supply cables, I wouldn't use any junction with smaller than 5/16" posts. I also don't believe in stacking large and small gauge terminations on the same posts. When using posts as distribution, I would limit stacked terminations to (3).
David, Odin has a very simple, all-encompassing, and uncomplicated distribution scheme. You might run your final version past him.

[TrueKaotik]

Factory distri will support everything if re-wiring the mains to 1/0, Distri blocks are "thicker". Sub wire gauge depends on length of run but I like 10 gauge if it's at helm and amps in observers for a XXX. All others I do 12 gauge.. Parallel inside the enclosure for less wire at the amplifier.

[rdlangston13]

Factory distri will support everything if re-wiring the mains to 1/0, Distri blocks are "thicker". Sub wire gauge depends on length of run but I like 10 gauge if it's at helm and amps in observers for a XXX. All others I do 12 gauge.. Parallel inside the enclosure for less wire at the amplifier.

Well not running a xxx sub but I figure I may as well run 10 now then if I ever upgrade I won't need to rerun any wires.


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[MLA]

Well not running a xxx sub but I figure I may as well run 10 now then if I ever upgrade I won't need to rerun any wires.


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The amp wattage will actually dictate the cable gauge, not so much the driver on the other end.

[rdlangston13]

The amp wattage will actually dictate the cable gauge, not so much the driver on the other end.

Yeah but if I upgrade to a xxx sub I figure it was assumed that my amp would also be getting a boost! :-)


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[MLA]

Yeah but if I upgrade to a xxx sub I figure it was assumed that my amp would also be getting a boost! :-)


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Then that would be the amp that you would want to base the gauge off of, still not the woofer.

Just like all the inquiries about what gauge for Rev-10. 18 ga would work if you kept the factory KX200.2 :rolleyes:

[jmvotto]

Looks great. What inboats are you going to run ?

[KG's Supra24]

Odin will be an excellent technical resource.

Yes sir! Buying from Earmark has always been more than just having the product shipped.


So Wetsounds this time around huh David L? ;)

[rdlangston13]

Looks great. What inboats are you going to run ?

Sticking with the stock kickers for now until someone wants to buy them to free up some
money for an upgrade


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[rdlangston13]

Yes sir! Buying from Earmark has always been more than just having the product shipped.


So Wetsounds this time around huh David L? ;)

Yeah, the only reason I went exile the first time around was at the time, they were the only ones with the quick connect for the towers and that was a must have due to having to fold the tower for my storage unit.


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[jstenger]

On the distribution block, what would I need that has ports small enough for a remote turn on relay and at the same time
Large enough for amps?


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Why are you even adding a remote turn on relay? I believe the radio can easily turn on everything you have.

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[jmvotto]

did I see 4 rev 10 . that's crazy. the last couples boats we were on the on had 2 and it was crazy loud .

tige rzx2 and the mojo pro surf edition , WS factory installed.

the eights sounds crazy good in the cabin of the tige

[rdlangston13]

did I see 4 rev 10 . that's crazy. the last couples boats we were on the on had 2 and it was crazy loud .

tige rzx2 and the mojo pro surf edition , WS factory installed.

the eights sounds crazy good in the cabin of the tige

You saw correctly. I want crystal clear clarity at 70 ft going 23 mph :-)


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[rdlangston13]

Why are you even adding a remote turn on relay? I believe the radio can easily turn on everything you have.

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If it can then great but I thought I read a thread on here where someone had 3 amps and the head unit remote turn on was not providing enough juice for them all. I'm running two amps and the ws420 so basically 3 items to turn on


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[jmvotto]

You saw correctly. I want crystal clear clarity at 70 ft going 23 mph :-)


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lol that you will get :cool:

[TrueKaotik]

Yeah but if I upgrade to a xxx sub I figure it was assumed that my amp would also be getting a boost! :-)


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You're picking up what I'm putting down, some people can't put two and two together..
Anyone who runs a XXX off of 600 watts is a noob...

[TrueKaotik]

Just like all the inquiries about what gauge for Rev-10. 18 ga would work if you kept the factory KX200.2 :rolleyes:
Please name one person who has done that... lmao...

[rdlangston13]

I am throwing this up for the audio gurus to give me their take. This is my rough draft box design. I think I may need to make it taller or raise up the hole for the woofer a bit.

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m523/rdlangston13/Box%201_zpsxsfvkjn3.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/rdlangston13/media/Box%201_zpsxsfvkjn3.jpg.html)

DavidAnalog

MLA

Opinions are welcome!

[MLA]

Please name one person who has done that... lmao...

Not going to name names, but we just upgraded the OEM kx200.2, power cables and factory tower harness to a Syn-dx4, 4ga cables and 12/4. Boat left the lot with the Rev-10's and factory amp. The speakers magically didnt melt the small wire and speakers played just fine.

Now back to the actual subject. The size of the speaker has absolutely ZERO to do with the gauge wire used.

Since you clearly disagree, please prove me wrong. Explain how the size of the speaker, not amp wattage, dictates the wire gauge.

Its funny how we have circled back to that technical word you like, "big" :p I guess big speakers need big wires ;)

[David Analog]

Absolutely. I want to compliment you on the precise color simulation of MDF. Best I've ever seen.

[rdlangston13]

Not going to name names, but we just upgraded the OEM kx200.2, power cables and factory tower harness to a Syn-dx4, 4ga cables and 12/4. Boat left the lot with the Rev-10's and factory amp. The speakers magically didnt melt the small wire and speakers played just fine.

Now back to the actual subject. The size of the speaker has absolutely ZERO to do with the gauge wire used.

Since you clearly disagree, please prove me wrong. Explain how the size of the speaker, not amp wattage, dictates the wire gauge.

Its funny how we have circled back to that technical word you like, "big" :p I guess big speakers need big wires ;)

So you used the 16 gauge wire in the tower? Or ran 12 gauge wire to the rev10s?


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[rdlangston13]

Absolutely. I want to compliment you on the precise color simulation of MDF. Best I've ever seen.

So this design should work well with the XS12? I used 3/4" for the MDF thickness


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[David Analog]

David,
Only a minor detail but I prefer to slide the port to one side of the box so that the exterior enclosure wall and port wall on one side are shared. This might save 25 sq.in. or a little more. If the symmetry is in some way important to the finished product, then proceed as is.

[TrueKaotik]

Not going to name names, but we just upgraded the OEM kx200.2, power cables and factory tower harness to a Syn-dx4, 4ga cables and 12/4. Boat left the lot with the Rev-10's and factory amp. The speakers magically didnt melt the small wire and speakers played just fine.

Now back to the actual subject. The size of the speaker has absolutely ZERO to do with the gauge wire used.

Since you clearly disagree, please prove me wrong. Explain how the size of the speaker, not amp wattage, dictates the wire gauge.

Its funny how we have circled back to that technical word you like, "big" :p I guess big speakers need big wires ;)
It has nothing to do with me disagreeing with you that wattage (plus run) dictates the wire gauge. The XXX is a 1000 watt sub and MOST people run the SD2 which is 1200 watts. The sub is the same size as the XS12 I clearly mentioned with the 12 gauge comment, so the wattage needed was the reason and I think most seem that. Sorry it wasn't clear to you the XXX was a reference to power differences between the two. You need to spend less time analizing my post to find something not perfectly said to fit your constant need to bicker with me... The simple fact that you pointed it out in a derogatory follow up post shows your need to degrade me.
For the info on the upgrade you did. Kudos! Although, they do not come from the factory with the Syn4 and revs attached since you know so much about them. That was the dealer that short changed the tower set up possibly (if it was when they switched as Roswells were 16' with the 200.2). Prolly ordered the 17' package and kept the SynDX since the 16's came pre-wired with the 200.2.. Since the switch to wetsounds tower package, it comes with the SynDX4 and two Rev10's that again, the dealer installs now.. So it was more than likely done after factory by someone else and you fixed it. Sweet!
That is a new one if it did in fact come from the factory that way.... 50 watts to a rev... Bet that sounded nice and loud... hehe...

[rdlangston13]

David,
Only a minor detail but I prefer to slide the port to one side of the box so that the exterior enclosure wall and port wall on one side are shared. This might save 25 sq.in. or a little more. If the symmetry is in some way important to the finished product, then proceed as is.

As is I think i have like 2+ cuff of volume excluding the port. WS lists the spec to be 1.7. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to having too much volume? I put the port on bottom to make it more symmetrical and thus prettier lol


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[rdlangston13]

Ok so I put pencil to paper and come up with the volumes. The total volume of the box is 2.28 cubic feet. Minus the port it is 1.8 cuft minus the sub volume of 0.078 cuft gives us a Box volume us 1.722 cuft. Is that the correct way to calculate the volume of the box? You subtract the port volume and the sub volume from the total volume? I assume the length of the port is related to the frequency the box is turned at, so according to WS, the box needs to be tuned to 41 hz, how do you come up with a port length based on that?

[MLA]

So you used the 16 gauge wire in the tower? Or ran 12 gauge wire to the rev10s?


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We pulled the factory tower wiring, what ever size it actually is but felt like 16ga or 14 with a very thin insulation. Installed 12ga 4 conductor. Boat came to me with Rev-10's and OEM installed 200.2 already in place, so I know it had the OEM 6.5's when it left the factory. Amp was not installed post factory. Tower wire upgrade was dictated by the 200.2 to Syn-DX4 upgrade and not just because there was a big speaker on the tower.

[MLA]

true-K, you spend WAY too much effort in finding ways to be offended by my posts that dont even have jack squat to do with you.

and I quote rdlangston13:


Well not running a xxx sub but I figure I may as well run 10 now then if I ever upgrade I won't need to rerun any wires.

In his post. he implied that his wire gauge was based on the woofer, with no mention of an amp change. I offered him a more accurate method in determining the gauge, without making any assumptions as to what amp he may run. Makes no difference to me which amp he runs. Rather than give him a fish, I taught him to fish, so to speak. If he is entertaining a complete woofer and amp upgrade in the future, then as posted later, then that future amp is the one that needs to be used to calculate the wire gauge. Again, the woofer is irrelevant.

[David Analog]

Ok so I put pencil to paper and come up with the volumes. The total volume of the box is 2.28 cubic feet. Minus the port it is 1.8 cuft minus the sub volume of 0.078 cuft gives us a Box volume us 1.722 cuft. Is that the correct way to calculate the volume of the box? You subtract the port volume and the sub volume from the total volume? I assume the length of the port is related to the frequency the box is turned at, so according to WS, the box needs to be tuned to 41 hz, how do you come up with a port length based on that?

David,
Stick with the 1.7 main chamber that Wetsounds recommends. Let's call this the net displacement, without the driver displacement (which is probably about .075 cu.ft., and without the port + port wall material. So for an adjusted figure you might call the enclosure 1.775 gross internal without the port and port walls.
Within limitations, you can tune any port to any frequency for any enclosure size. But you wouldn't want to. The main chamber size is important in that you want the resonance characteristics of the chamber and port to be somewhat different rather than coincidental...unless you are creating a one note wonder which you don't want to do. The idea should be bass that goes very deep and is somewhat equal in amplitude at all useable frequencies.
The port length alone does not determine the tuning frequency. It's actually a ratio of port surface area and length. So when you change either the port surface area or length you must change both to maintain the same frequency. For changing the frequency alone once the enclosure internal size has been determined, there are on-line calculators.
Personally, I don't like a tuning frequency as high as 41 Hz. when you don't have a subsonic filter. I would modify this to 35 Hz. which means a longer port and thus more port displacement to add to your box. You'll have a bit less peak bass in exchange for a bit deeper bass, but most importantly, less cone movement with less distortion on lower notes.

So I know we are getting way too technical here and we've only scratched the surface. So I'm going to suggest that you take my comments and give them to Odin and enlist Odin in some of these finer points of the box design.

This is just one of about 100 reasons why people should be using Odin with Earmark Marine.

[TrueKaotik]

I agree with David, We have been tuning the Wet Sounds enclosures at 35-38hz as well instead of the 41.

[David Analog]

I agree with David, We have been tuning the Wet Sounds enclosures at 35-38hz as well instead of the 41.

Oh darn. I might have to amend my recommendation.

[TrueKaotik]

Oh darn. I might have to amend my recommendation.

Well of course... :lol:

[rdlangston13]

Got together with Cody tonight to get some work done on our sub box. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170511/5a77627fc7fa1e05d0b9209d0ddc87f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170511/d01a961bf99debaf7aa406b6a59a65f2.jpg


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[jbird]

David,
Did you end up changing the dimensions of your original "rough draft" box design you posted (awesome posting of detailed drawing btw!)? I'm getting ready to start a very similar sub install and this thread has helped me a ton!

[rdlangston13]

David,
Did you end up changing the dimensions of your original "rough draft" box design you posted (awesome posting of detailed drawing btw!)? I'm getting ready to start a very similar sub install and this thread has helped me a ton!

Yeah, I downloaded a free program called WinISD and it helped me figure out my port size and dimensions so it changed a big. If you need a box for an XS-12, mine should be good haha. We will see in a month or so how it sounds.

[dusty2221]

Not to mention going ahead and upgrading to the Wetsounds inboats...this thing is gonna jam!

[rdlangston13]

To celebrate our spray date I decided to buy stuff for the boat! I picked a 3 bank 30 amp charger, all the power and rca cables needed for the install, a new box anchor, battery boxes for the future golf cart batteries, dual battery switch, anchor buddy, and some transom straps. Should be fun when it gets here throwing all this in


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[rdlangston13]

So I'm trying to get the stereo set up on an acc switch but all then switches have wire coming out the back of them, where to I connect my 12 turn on wire at??


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[MLA]

First need to confirm its an used switch. Pretty common for them to be pre-wired, but not connected on the other end of the wire if a particular option was not ordered/installed. Next, use a volt meter to find which terminal is the switched out. IMO, I just pull that wire off, tape it off and tie it back. Plug up my wire.

[moombahighrider]

So I'm trying to get the stereo set up on an acc switch but all then switches have wire coming out the back of them, where to I connect my 12 turn on wire at??


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David, do you have the ACC switch? Look up above the steering column for some wires that are ziptied out of the way. They are labeled ACC. There is 3 of them- you just need the red and black wires.

[rdlangston13]

I got it, I just tired it into the 12 volt constant wire and I'll just turn it on an off with the button on the head hnit


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[moombahighrider]

I got it, I just tired it into the 12 volt constant wire and I'll just turn it on an off with the button on the head hnit


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What head unit are you using? Typically, you would tie the constant straight to the battery and the switched to the acc. That way, it has memory via the battery.

[moombahighrider]

I just re read your post. Looks like you got it. I would tie head unit switched wire to the acc switch but your way might work also, provided the switched wire has power also

[rdlangston13]

There is nothing like receiving a brand new boat only to tear it all apart the very next day. Day one of stereo installation, go the factory amp and battery switch out, completed about 95% of the amp board. Ran RCAs, WS420 power and ground, and sub speaker wire from helm to port locker. Ran RGB wires up the tower for the rev10s and ran almost all the rgb wires for the cabin speakers. Tomorrows goal is to hang the rev10s, install amp board, rig up batteries and test.

MLA - what settings should the amps be at? SD6 running channels 1-4 on the cabins, channels 5-6 bridged on the sub. SD2 run 1 pair of rev10s per channel.

[moombahighrider]

There is nothing like receiving a brand new boat only to tear it all apart the very next day. Day one of stereo installation, go the factory amp and battery switch out, completed about 95% of the amp board. Ran RCAs, WS420 power and ground, and sub speaker wire from helm to port locker. Ran RGB wires up the tower for the rev10s and ran almost all the rgb wires for the cabin speakers. Tomorrows goal is to hang the rev10s, install amp board, rig up batteries and test.

MLA - what settings should the amps be at? SD6 running channels 1-4 on the cabins, channels 5-6 bridged on the sub. SD2 run 1 pair of rev10s per channel.

I know you are asking MLA, but the way you describe is exactly the way my boat came wired/ connected.

[rdlangston13]

I know you are asking MLA, but the way you describe is exactly the way my boat came wired/ connected.

Yeah I'm mainly asking what the switches on the amps need to be set at


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[rdlangston13]

Day two! Got the amp board mounted (I'll have to remove it though because I need to finish wiring it. Got the rev10s all hung up and wired with their RGBs. And cleaned it up. Taking a break from for about a month and the I'll finish it up. Got to install the sub and build a facade for the box, install cabin speakers and connect their RGBs. Install WS420 and install RGB controller.


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[rdlangston13]

Got her on the water today for the maiden voyage and a few things were found that need to be addressed. Our RGBs, when turned on, can not only be seen but also heard through all the speakers. I'm thinking this may be due to the power and ground being sourced from an ACC terminal under the dash instead of being run back to the bus bar that we put it for all the audio gear? I really don't know. Also all the other lights, when turned on can be heard, but the RGBs in the speakers are by far the worst. Other than that it sounds great and I plan on getting it professionally tuned Monday.

We did discover that when installing the RGB strips in the tower speakers we broke two of them so we only have light on 2 of the 4 rev10s. Going to contact WS and see what they can do about getting us 2 more strips.


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