Zone control

[98outback]

Waiting on the new boat to come in but picking up addons before it gets here. I went ahead and got the bow speakers and sub option which should be on one amp and then the rev 10s and amp for the tower. I wild like to be able to control the sub, in boats, and tower independently of each other. I was looking at the wetsounds eq. I know there are two models. Would I need 3 separate amps to get this to work as I want or can it be done with the 2 amps?

[MLA]

Technically, you will have 3 amp. The in-boat amp has a dedicated sub-woofer amp and a 4 chnl full-range amp all in one chassis. You can even take it a step further, and go with the 4 zone Wet Sounds WS-220 and make the bow speakers zone #4.

[David Analog]

Yes, there are several Wetsounds EQ models. You have a choice between a strict zone controller or an EQ. The 420SQ is a triple-zone controller but is also unique in that it has independent equalizer circuits for tower and in-boat zones. So two full EQs in a single chassis. This allows you to custom tailor one zone without impacting the other. Very useful.

[TrueKaotik]

Your Mojo will come with two amps from factory to power all components if you got the top package and yes you can add a zone controller. If you want separate EQ for tower and inboats, go 420SQ. If you don't want the EQ functions but 4 zones, go with the 220BT But you won't want to use the BT part of the 220. You will use the Fusion's BT if you want BT.
Most do the 420SQ in your situation to be honest...

[David Analog]

In a stand alone BT module, most everyone I know in the biz has had great performance from the JL Audio @ $39. However, that new Wetsounds WW-BT-UR module looks very promising.

[98outback]

Can I use the Bluetooth from the fusion with either wetsounds eq or bt?

[MLA]

Can I use the Bluetooth from the fusion with either wetsounds eq or bt?

sure can. music comes in to the eq same as if it was tuner, cd, usb, sat.

[aerolland]

I was going to start a separate thread on this, however, it appears to fit into the current flow quite well. The input for the WS 420SQ or 420BT is a single pair of RCA jacks (Left and Right). Most all head units are at least Front and Rear (4 RCA plugs), some include Front, Rear, and SUB (6 RCA Plugs). In either of those cases, how do you guys have them hooked up? Pick either Front or Rear channel from head unit and ignore the others?

My main concern is if I pick a H/U that contains specific SUB outputs, how will that interact with the WS420BT? Obviously you would lose the H/U's control of the SUB volume, but do you need to 100% bias the output to the RCA's you picked to hook up to the WS unit?

[David Analog]

Normally you use the HU front RCA output and remain full fade to the front. The EQ provides all independent zone level controls, in-boat, tower, & sub, plus a master volume control.

[MLA]

Pick either Front or Rear channel from head unit and ignore the others?

Yep, thats it. Just make sure its not faded to the opposite of what you choose.


My main concern is if I pick a H/U that contains specific SUB outputs, how will that interact with the WS420BT?

I cant tell you the last time I came across a head unit that had only sub RCAs out and not full range. Even without an EQ or similar, I prefer a full range output into a sub amp. With a quality woofer amp, we rarely need to use the head unit for our filters. Let the amp do it. With an EQ/zone volume device, we still want our sub amp to do the filtering. The WS-420/220 does our volume control as intended, so nothing needed to be controlled at the head unit, sub wise.

[98outback]

Does anyone know what kicker amp comes with the package that adds the 2 bow speakers and sub? I opted for the rev 10s on the tower so that will take care of one zone. Just curious and the other amp. I will eventually change out the factory kicker audio but summer will be in full effect when I receive the boat so I wanted it turn key for this year.

[MLA]

As of late, the Moomba has been using the Kicker KXM800.5 marine 5 chnl.

[98outback]

Thanks. Hopefully that's what will be in mine.

[BrettLee3232]

Thanks. Hopefully that's what will be in mine.

FYI if it is that amp you can power (2) KM10s off the sub channel. I have two of those amps powering (4) tens.


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[98outback]

I may call skiers choice in the morning and confirm. Hopefully it is the 800.5 that way I can run the in boats as a zone, the sub as a zone and the tower speakers as a zone.

[BrettLee3232]

The KM10 is very musical, but I would recommend running (2) to keep up with the Rev10s. If the 800.5 is running the 4 cabin & 2 bow speakers they will be underpowered & you will think they suck. They will sound great w/ 100watts each speaker


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[BrettLee3232]

I also do not think they put the sub in a box. I thought I read somewhere on here it wasn't in a box but I might be mistaken.


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[MLA]

I may call skiers choice in the morning and confirm. Hopefully it is the 800.5 that way I can run the in boats as a zone, the sub as a zone and the tower speakers as a zone.

Just note, regardless of what amp model(s) you can run a 3 zone tower, in-boat and woofer, setup. Thats with out any doubt.

[MLA]

I also do not think they put the sub in a box. I thought I read somewhere on here it wasn't in a box but I might be mistaken.


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Nope, they dont. However, a .80 will fit with ease. A little more work but doable, to get up to a 1.0.

The sub chnl on the 800.5 will also drive a 2 ohm mild 12 @ 400W rms, like the CompVR124. Mated with a ported enclosure would be a solid setup.

[98outback]

I had a 10" kicker solo baric L7 in a 1 cuft sealed box in my Supra and it sounded decent. Had to remove the drivers seat to slide it under the helm but it fit without any problems.

[98outback]

Spoke with Anthony at moomba and he said inboats with sub come with the 40kxm800.5 and the rev 10s on tower come with the syn-dx4.

[MLA]

and the rev 10s on tower come with the syn-dx4.

Good to see them using some solid wattage. If you ever decide to add a send pair, you can swap the DX4 to either the Kicker KMX1200.2 or the Wet Sounds Syn-DX2.3hp.

[TrueKaotik]

Yes in 2017 they added the Rev10's/Syn4 combo. Since 2016 they have been Kicker Marine for the interior. What I mean by that is they actually use the KXM series instead of the KX like the previous year.. Supra and Moomba is coming back to the game with proper stereo components. As for "if" you add another pair, just add another Syn4 and Rev10's, I see no benefit to selling and repurchasing another amp to drop in wattage to each Rev...

[MLA]

I see no benefit

No problem, im happy to help out.

Although im a fan of head room and extra wattage, you would not hear an audible difference between a pair of speakers @ 800W and a pair @ 600W for starters. In the above scenario, the setup is going from a pair of speakers at 800W, to 2 pair at 1200W. That makes an audible difference, even with a slight drop in wattage on paper. The doubling of the surface area by adding a 2nd set, offsets that drop on wattage.

As to some benefits of a single amp v's dual amp;
Less realestate for a single 2 chnl compared to two 4 chnl. Not a huge factor if you are building from scratch and plan on a new, larger amp wall.
Less cabling, distribution outlets, etc. Small investment if again, building from scratch.
Splitting RCAs to dual amps driving the same zone, divides the line level into each amp. This requires a higher gain setting on each amp, in order to achieve full power. This raises the noise floor, opening the door wider for unwanted noise. Can be compensated with a line driver.

You have three solid options. Add that 2nd identical amp. Sell/trade the existing amp to offset the cost of an upgraded amp. This option just my be less expensive than buying another DX4 outright. Lastly, re-purpose the existing DX4 tower amp to the in-boats for a 2X increase in wattage. I like this move of one is looking for a more commanding bass setup and would be upgrading the woofer and in-boat speakers, and likely the amp.

Not at all against dual tower amps, but now you see some of the benefits previously unknown to you.

[TrueKaotik]

No problem, im happy to help out.

Although im a fan of head room and extra wattage, you would not hear an audible difference between a pair of speakers @ 800W and a pair @ 600W for starters. In the above scenario, the setup is going from a pair of speakers at 800W, to 2 pair at 1200W. That makes an audible difference, even with a slight drop in wattage on paper. The doubling of the surface area by adding a 2nd set, offsets that drop on wattage.

As to some benefits of a single amp v's dual amp;
Less realestate for a single 2 chnl compared to two 4 chnl. Not a huge factor if you are building from scratch and plan on a new, larger amp wall.
Less cabling, distribution outlets, etc. Small investment if again, building from scratch.
Splitting RCAs to dual amps driving the same zone, divides the line level into each amp. This requires a higher gain setting on each amp, in order to achieve full power. This raises the noise floor, opening the door wider for unwanted noise. Can be compensated with a line driver.

You have three solid options. Add that 2nd identical amp. Sell/trade the existing amp to offset the cost of an upgraded amp. This option just my be less expensive than buying another DX4 outright. Lastly, re-purpose the existing DX4 tower amp to the in-boats for a 2X increase in wattage. I like this move of one is looking for a more commanding bass setup and would be upgrading the woofer and in-boat speakers, and likely the amp.

Not at all against dual tower amps, but now you see some of the benefits previously unknown to you.
2 pair at 1600 watts compared to 2 pair at 1200 watts.. hmmmm.. 1/4 of the wattage gone per pod is audible.. "On paper".... But, OK...

If you know the boat, reason two has nothing to do with it but I could see it if you want to cut the factory amp rack in half and not add wiring to sacrifice output.

i know all the benefits for each, you and your sarcasm, you are not all knowing. In this case I suggested something you didn't and again you try and upscale your Opinion as better like always.. have a great weekend Mike..

[98outback]

Thanks for everyone's input. All ideas are good. I think we will be sticking to the single pair for awhile. I will probably upgrade the sub with a correct box after summer though.

[98outback]

So should I just go with the sq instead of the bt since I will be running Bluetooth thru the radio

[MLA]

Im fairly certain the that the Fusion BT200 is the blue tooth used. if so, then I would retain it. Its a good unit.

If you feel that 3 zone is all you need, then yes, go with the WS-420SQ over the 420BT. If you want the 4 zone, then go with the WS-220BT and you just end up with a 2nd BT option by default.

[98outback]

If I went with the 220 would all my adjustments have to be made on the amps first the just use the 220 for volume? But with the 420 I csnbfibe tune it at the eq.

[MLA]

The bands of adjustment on the WS-420 does not impact the tuning of the amp. Amp tuning is the same. Once the amp(s) is/are tuned, then the 420 does allow for tweaks to be made on the fly. If you feel you want those fine tuning/tweaking adjustments, go with the WS-420SQ. You can tweak through the head unit, but it effects all zones. With the 420SQ, you have dual EQs allowing independent tuning of the tower and in-boats. Cant get that ANYWHERE else in a single chassis marine EQ.

[98outback]

I found the 220bt at an authorized online dealer for $199.00 so I went ahead and ordered. Couldn't find it anywhere else at any of the other online deals even close on price. Cost with shipping and tax 221.98. Don't think the fine tuning is worth another 150-200 for my setup. Thanks for all the info.