'17 Craz Audio Questions.

[Rakkasan]

Guys, Got the Craz on order and had a couple questions that I couldn't find the answers to.

1. We opted for the additional bow speakers with amp but not the subwoofer. If I get a sub to install myself would it be able to run off the same amp. As in if it came from the factory with the sub installed would it have came with a different amp or just tied into the one that came with the bow speakers.

2. Kinda on a budget after dropping money on the boat and was wondering about tower speakers. We have 2 REV10s and a REV410 on our current boat and they are staying with it when we get the new one. Awesome speakers but we never really got the full potential out of them. Don't really wakeboard much anymore just really surf and don't want to kill everybody in the boat with volume. Thinking about Exile Surf speakers or WS ICON8s(are they kind of the same?)

3. I keep seeing tower pods that are built using Wet Sounds 6.5s or similar sized speakers. Are they adequate for surf distance and just basic parking in a cove speakers. Would they do until we can afford better equipment.

4. Finally what kind of amp would be needed to power the any of the above speakers. I haven't really messed with installing amps myself in about 20 years so I know a lot has changed but I'm sure I can get it done.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[MLA]

1) good choice to go with the extra pair. I do not know what amp is used on that option level, but I doubt Moomba would put an amp in that would be mare than is needed. They likely fitted the boat with amp that will just to the job of driving the 3 pair of in-boats.

2) Yes, as in they are both an 8" coaxial with a 1" dome tweeter. Similar power handling. Both offer fixed tube clamps, direct mount, swivel mount options, Both companies offer speaker covers.

If you are in the Atlanta/Lanier area, AVC Marine should be able to demo the Wet Sounds Icon-8 for you. As well as answer amp questions and such.

3) I would suggest 2 pair if you go the 6.5" coaxial route. Drive them to their potential will be better than a single pair that gets the snot driven out of them. However, two pair of a quality setup would likely be the price range of an 8" tower coaxial setup. You should also check out the Kicker KM8 as another options.

4) First need to make the speaker choice. At that point, amp options are easy to make. Lots of quality marine amps from Wet Sounds, Kicker, JL, Rockford, etc. Id suggest a class-D for sure though.

[That Guy]

It sounds like we're in the same boat, pun intended. ;)

I ordered the same boat, with only the bow speaker/amp package and have since purchased a sub/amp/box and tower speakers/amp.

I chose to buy a matching sub to the factory offers so the speaker covers all match, plus I've heard good things. I also purchased a box to mount it in vs just mounting it to the panel like they do from the factory. Based on what I've read the amp for the in-boat speakers will not support the sub, so I purchased a separate amp for that. I also went with a pair of Rev10's with a single amp as I had Icon8's on my last boat, and realistically they were fine for what we do but these weren't that much more (on sale) and look great mounted on the Craz tower. I'm not much of an audiophile, nor do I wakeboard much, but I wanted my boat to look on point, lol.

[Rakkasan]

Thanks for the info guys.

If I don't really want to reach 65 feet back do y'all think the coaxial route should be the way to go? Are 2 pairs of 6.5s going to be as powerful or around the same as a one pair of 8s?

Guy. What kind of box did you get for the sub? Does it still leave plenty of room for you feet and other stuff under the wheel?

[wolfeman131]

If you are in the Atlanta/Lanier area, AVC Marine should be able to demo the Wet Sounds Icon-8 for you. As well as answer amp questions and such. .

Call Chris Shakespeare @ 770.906.7331 and tell him I said he needs to hook you up!

He can pick your boat up from Atlanta Marine and have you ready to go before you even take possession so you won;t have to come back to the ATL.

[Rakkasan]

Call Chris Shakespeare @ 770.906.7331 and tell him I said he needs to hook you up!

He can pick your boat up from Atlanta Marine and have you ready to go before you even take possession so you won;t have to come back to the ATL.

I'd love to give them some business. Seen nothing but top notch installs from them. Unfortunately I think they'll be a little out of my price range for a season or two.

[BrettLee3232]

If you want to stay kicker, you could do an 800.5 amp that will power 2 10s under helm & a pair of 8" KM8s on your tower. If you want more power then do what I did...4 10s under helm, 4 8s on tower & 2 800.5s.

Trust me you will love it [emoji1305]


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[BrettLee3232]

If you want, I might be willing to sell my 2 amps & 4 10s to save you some money.


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[mmandley]

I'd love to give them some business. Seen nothing but top notch installs from them. Unfortunately I think they'll be a little out of my price range for a season or two.

I'm in the ATL now, on Lake Lanier, if you are willing to put in the work, I will give you my time and we can do your install and save you a lot of coin bud.

Let me know.

[Rakkasan]

I'm in the ATL now, on Lake Lanier, if you are willing to put in the work, I will give you my time and we can do your install and save you a lot of coin bud.

Let me know.

That's why this site rocks. Always someone willing help out.

Thank You Sir

I'm always willing to put in the work. All the way on the south side so it might be hard to get up there sometimes but will definitely be picking your brain.

[mmandley]

That's why this site rocks. Always someone willing help out.

Thank You Sir

I'm always willing to put in the work. All the way on the south side so it might be hard to get up there sometimes but will definitely be picking your brain.

I don't have the room here anyhow, but I can come to you. We can work something out. LOL

Now you want to bring your boat to Lanier, I have a ramp half mile from my house thats never busy, and I have more then enough room on my dock for you to tie up, plenty of beer, food and chairs to relax on LOL

[Rakkasan]

If you want, I might be willing to sell my 2 amps & 4 10s to save you some money.


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I don't think I could sell the wife on 4 10s but if you get ready to move them and the amps hit me up.

[MLA]

Thanks for the info guys.

If I don't really want to reach 65 feet back do y'all think the coaxial route should be the way to go? Are 2 pairs of 6.5s going to be as powerful or around the same as a one pair of 8s?

Guy. What kind of box did you get for the sub? Does it still leave plenty of room for you feet and other stuff under the wheel?

Yes, coaxials are the way to go, however, the 10" Wet Sounds Rev-10 HLCD is the exception. With its extra surface area, it really balances out with powerful compression driver.

The difference between 2 pair of 6.5 and a single pair of 8": The 4 6.5" has more surface area, both in the mid-bass come and tweeter, so it will deliver greater peak output compare to two 8". However, the larger 8" will deliver deeper mid-bass, netting a smoother more natural sound. But with proper power, the 8" will deliver plenty of output. The typical 8 will also handle more wattage than the typical 6.5", so we can also drive the single pair of 8" with more wattage then a single pair of 6.5", which equals more output.

For sub box, I would really suggest a custom built box that A) fits the boat and B) is designed to optimize the woofer and C) an enclosure thats designed for the marine environment. You wont get these from an off the shelf box. Executed right, you may not lose any leg room under the helm.

[Rakkasan]

That explains alot and makes more sense now. Now the hard part in deciding to go 2 or 4 speakers on the tower. Four always looks better but I like the deeper mid-bass and don't think a pair of 8s with a pair of 6.5s would be a cost effective option.

[MLA]

I totally get the look of 2 pods v's 4 pods. There can be some challenges with mixing different size speakers, mainly the amp selection. From a cost position, there may not be much of a cost difference between four 8" and two 6.5" and two 8". At that point, step up to four 8". The amp choice to drive the 2 pair of same size/type speakers is much easier also.

[Stazi]

I am installing a set of matching bow speakers, that I got off Brett, and will be powering those off the deck. I also purchased a kicker 800.5 to run the in boats in the cockpit and a 12" kicker sub in a box under the helm. For the towers I got a pair of the kicker KMT 6.5 inch tower speaker sets that I will be running off another kicker 400.4 amp that I will bridge. I plan to see how all this works first, and if there isn't enough sound from the 6.5 towers I will add another pair of KM8's and another amp for those.


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[KG's Supra24]

You should run the additional bow speakers off the 800.5 also, instead of the head unit.

channels 1 and 2 to the 4 cockpit speakers, channels 3 and 4 to the bow, and 5th channel for sub.

[Stazi]

Good idea. I'll just have to adjust the gain to the front speakers so that they aren't out of balance the cockpit speakers


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[MLA]

Good idea. I'll just have to adjust the gain to the front speakers so that they aren't out of balance the cockpit speakers


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Yes, you should drive the bow speakers with the amp. It will do this without hesitation. Depending on the head unit, you can still have the ability to fade as well.

Just note that the 400.4 may not like those KMT67 bridged. It has a lower than 4 ohm impedance and tends to put an amp into protect mode when bridged on a 4 chnl amp. The KXM400.2 is a more stable options and the Wet Sounds HTX-2 would push then a little better.

[Stazi]

Just measured the KMT67 and they are 3.8Ω each at the speaker. I then attached 2m of 16ga wire to one and remeasured and it's right at 4.1Ω. It should be ok. We'll see!
In retrospect the 400.2 would have been better as it's 2Ω stable for 200W x 2.

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[Rakkasan]

So I'm looking at some speaker mounts. Does anyone know the tube diameter for the Aviator 3 tower. Also where the best mounting locations are. Haven't really decided on speakers yet just noticing that some are not universal clamps but need the exact tower dementions.

Thanks

[Rakkasan]

Another question. Will the Wet Sounds Xmount bolt directly to the A3 and does Exile offer something like the Xmount if it does work?

[MLA]

Wet sounds and exile share the same direct bolt up hole pattern. To go further, someone correct me if wrong, but are Wet Sounds tower speaker not an option for 2017? And i believe I seen them in the X-Mount configuration.

[KG's Supra24]

Yes, Wetsounds is now a factory option in 17 with the A3 tower.



http://cdn.dealerspike.com/imglib/v1/800x600/imglib/Assets/Inventory/ED/51/ED513BE7-1F54-459D-A1EA-FA63E5A0B4D2.jpg

http://cdn.dealerspike.com/imglib/v1/800x600/imglib/Assets/Inventory/63/2E/632EB257-00BA-4AD0-ABA0-1AB48B460833.jpg


Unfortunately it is setup where the pass thru wiring is not utilized? Kind of a bummer for cleanliness.

[Rakkasan]

Awesome. I knew they were an option just didn't want to pay their price at the time of build. So. If I get the Wet Sounds or Exiles will they bolt to the same locations or will a hole need to be drilled in the tower. Also is there a reason if I do the instal myself why I wouldn't be able to run the wiring thru the mount?

[MLA]

Rakk,

If you look close at the 2nd pic KG posted, you will see that the speaker pod mounts to a flat stock metal plate. There is no where for the wire to go through that plate. However, the adapters have the wires exit through the side of the adapter so the wire routes as it would with any other speaker option you choose.

[Rakkasan]

Rakk,

If you look close at the 2nd pic KG posted, you will see that the speaker pod mounts to a flat stock metal plate. There is no where for the wire to go through that plate. However, the adapters have the wires exit through the side of the adapter so the wire routes as it would with any other speaker option you choose.

I see it now thanks. For some reason when I first looked at the pic I thought it was just an oval connecting tube and not flat bar stock.

[That Guy]

I'm pretty sure that picture is using Moomba's factory option wetsounds mount. I ordered just the mounts with my boat and bought the Rev10's separately.

Hope it's ok to ask a question in your thread....how are you guys running the wiring for the sub/amp? Like from the battery compartment to under the dash where the sub is?

[Rakkasan]

I wonder it you can buy just the adapters/mounts separately

And no by all means ask everything you want because I probably will too.

I want to have everything thing concerning the Craz figured out by the time it gets here. Can't wait and they won't even start the build for another month I'm guessing.

[That Guy]

I wonder it you can buy just the adapters/mounts separately

And no by all means ask everything you want because I probably will too.

I want to have everything thing concerning the Craz figured out by the time it gets here. Can't wait and they won't even start the build for another month I'm guessing.

That's what I did. They are like $200 from the dealer.

I'm taking deliver of my Craz Saturday and plan to spend the weekend in the garage with a few buddies installing all the goodies I've picked up over the past couple months. I'll be sure to post a thread and hopefully be able to answer some things for you as well.

[soonerbilly]

Looking forward to the pictures. Thinking I might be in the same boat ( pun intended ) next year. Esp if your reviews are favorable on the autosurf and the wake/wave quality.

[Rakkasan]

Does anyone who has the A3 tower know the tube diameter? Might be getting some speaker pods and need to know what size clamps to get.

Thanks

[Stazi]

I do t have my not nearby so I can't help you out with that. Sorry


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[mattsask]

Yes, Wetsounds is now a factory option in 17 with the A3 tower.



http://cdn.dealerspike.com/imglib/v1/800x600/imglib/Assets/Inventory/ED/51/ED513BE7-1F54-459D-A1EA-FA63E5A0B4D2.jpg

http://cdn.dealerspike.com/imglib/v1/800x600/imglib/Assets/Inventory/63/2E/632EB257-00BA-4AD0-ABA0-1AB48B460833.jpg


Unfortunately it is setup where the pass thru wiring is not utilized? Kind of a bummer for cleanliness.
Whose storm trooper is that? Sick!

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[That Guy]

Does anyone who has the A3 tower know the tube diameter? Might be getting some speaker pods and need to know what size clamps to get.

Thanks

Using a string around the tubing and math I'm coming up with a number between 2.5 and 2.625 sizes.

[Rakkasan]

Thank you sir. I put an email to Roswell but haven't heard anything back.

[mattsask]

The aviator on the 16's was 2 3/8"

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[Rakkasan]

Here with an update. Just picked up a SNY 4 amp. Would this be a good combination for a pair of ICON 8s and sub? If so are there any good recommendations on a sub it would power. Thx

[dusty2221]

That's not really an ideal setup for that amp. If you did it anyway, each icon would only be getting 125w (rated for 150-300). The sub would be left with 400w mono on the other 2 channels.

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[KG's Supra24]

It would power a set of Rev 10s just right.

How many icons are you looking to power? How much sub power are you looking for?

It may be possible to do a pair and a 400 watt sub but someone more familiar with the amp topology would have to say for certain if it could work.

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[Rakkasan]

Dusty,that makes sense. I didn't think it would be powering the ICON that low but I guess it would.

KG, I don't think I can swing the Rev10's. Wife was tired of banging her head on the 8s and 485 on our LSV. Planing on starting with one set of ICONs and bumping up to a second later if I feel it needs it.

Will the SYN4 be good for two sets? I'm guessing so.

[KG's Supra24]

Kinda put the cart before the horse on the syn4. I mentioned 10s bc its a perfect match wattage wise.

With 8s, you are going to be underpowered in almost all scenarios.

What is the full set of components you will be working with? Any other amps?

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[dusty2221]

The height of the new towers and the different placement may keep your head clear of the rev10 compared to the lsv. You might be surprised at the clearance, and the amp you picked up is the perfect choice for a single pair of them.

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[Rakkasan]

Kinda put the cart before the horse on the syn4. I mentioned 10s bc its a perfect match wattage wise.

With 8s, you are going to be underpowered in almost all scenarios.

What is the full set of components you will be working with? Any other amps?

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You're right about that. Let's just say I got a smoking deal on the amp and didn't want to pass it up. Right now all the boat will have are the four factory cabin speakers plus the upgraded bow speaker/amp package.

[Rakkasan]

The height of the new towers and the different placement may keep your head clear of the rev10 compared to the lsv. You might be surprised at the clearance, and the amp you picked up is the perfect choice for a single pair of them.

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Yeah the towers are higher just didn't know how much. Kinda getting ahead of myself just wanted to get everything lined up so when the build is finished I'll have everything ready.

[russellsmojo]

Get the 10's. You would never need to upgrade. I bet 2 rev 10's sound better than 4 icon 8's and overall less investment.

[KG's Supra24]

http://images.auction123.com/e5586e7f-1ed8-45a2-8beb-4797449ca0e1/ISPME144A717/08.jpg?web001lnw

[That Guy]

Get the 10's. You would never need to upgrade. I bet 2 rev 10's sound better than 4 icon 8's and overall less investment.

+1. I was on the fence for headroom reasons coming from my last boat with a pair of Icon8's but now that I have the pair of Rev10's mounted on my Craz I don't see how they'll ever be in the way.

Here's an in progress picture from last week. The factory mount tucks it up and back really nice so you still have plenty of room down the middle.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3796/32962088396_93ed46e3b9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SdKjuU)

[MLA]

I have no issue with a Icon-8 driven @ 125W rms off a chnl of a Syn-4 for example. Yes, its certainly not driving an 8" speaker to its full potential. Will it blow the speaker......no. In reality, the 8" speaker will play louder than lets say a 6.5" speaker thats powered with similar wattage.

Is 400W for a woofer good bad in between? thats a matter of perception, expectations, goals and past experience. Drive a 400W 10" or 12" with 2-3 pair of moderate powered 6.5" in-boats and you've got a good setup. Put that woofer in a ported enclosure, and you get even more output, with no additional amp wattage.

My only concern with this setup is having the 2 hardest driven zones on the same amp. However, the Syn-4 has proven itself to be a beast and take a ton of abuse. Its a big heavy amp with excellent cooling. It can run summed mono on the tower, which I really like.

its also a great base for building on a future end-game system. This amp could be re-purposed down the road for the 3 pair of in-boats for example.

[Rakkasan]

Thanks for the reply guys. You've talked me out of the sub for now on this amp.

But Guy you really suck. I've been looking at REV10s all day. :(

Didn't really want to go that big as we don't really jam out all the time with lots of people. Are the 10s HLCDs less harsh then previous models like to PRO80s? Just don't want the guys in the boat throwing things at me cause their ears are ringing.

[dusty2221]

Yes.

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[MLA]

Are the 10s HLCDs less harsh then previous models like to PRO80s? Just don't want the guys in the boat throwing things at me cause their ears are ringing.

Yes. To one degree, there are no previous versions to the Rev-10 as all others like the pro-80, were 8" and the rev-10 is a 10". The larger 10" driver offers more mid-bass and deeper mid-bass extension to yield better balance with the aggressive compression driver. Even deeper than that, the Rev series is voiced at 3 ft for sound quality where as the old pro series was voice at 80 ft for pure projection. In other words, the Rev-10 as not just about wake range projection, but better near field sound quality, without any wake range loss. Yes, its still and HLCD, but FAR better than any other HLCD

[Rakkasan]

Alright guys just an update with more questions.

Got the REV10s on order last night(X-Mount with the adapters.)
SNY-4 at the house.

Will probably do the Sub and WS420 at the end of the season.

1) Do you guys think I absolutely need a second battery now. Ordered the boat with one battery to save on the price as I can always add one later. I know once I get the sub in a battery will be going with it but do I need one now. Will currently have 6 inboats with factory amp the SNY-4 and the REV10s.

2) Best speaker wire for the REVs 12 or 14 gauge tinned? Any links with a good price?

3) Best amp wiring? Guessing 4 gauge and what size fuse will it need.

Any other no brainers I will need to get this all up and running?
Automatic Charging Relay? Boat will be hooked up to a trickle charger every night.

Power distribution blocks?

Good RCAs?

Thanks in advance as this has become and all new learning experience.

[trayson]

Alright guys just an update with more questions.

Got the REV10s on order last night(X-Mount with the adapters.)
SNY-4 at the house.

Will probably do the Sub and WS420 at the end of the season.

1) Do you guys think I absolutely need a second battery now. Ordered the boat with one battery to save on the price as I can always add one later. I know once I get the sub in a battery will be going with it but do I need one now. Will currently have 6 inboats with factory amp the SNY-4 and the REV10s.

2) Best speaker wire for the REVs 12 or 14 gauge tinned? Any links with a good price?

3) Best amp wiring? Guessing 4 gauge and what size fuse will it need.

Any other no brainers I will need to get this all up and running?
Automatic Charging Relay? Boat will be hooked up to a trickle charger every night.

Power distribution blocks?

Good RCAs?

Thanks in advance as this has become and all new learning experience.

as far as RCA's and stuff, me and others have had good luck with these:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/

As far as the wiring for your amps, there's two predominate styles out here CCA (copper clad aluminum) and OFC (Oxygen Free Copper). CCA is going to be WAY cheaper and is what's used most the time in Car installations. OFC is the BETTER stuff and is what everyone around here recommends, especially for a marine environment. It's going to resist corrosion a lot better and because it's real copper (and not just the coated aluminum) it conducts the current better with less resistance. You'll get more power from your batteries to your amps and in turn your amps will make more power and do it more efficiently. OFC is a chunk more money, but if you're keeping your boat for any length of time and are at all concerned with "do it right and do it once", then OFC is the way to go.

CCA is cheaper, but in the end could cost you efficiency/performance and also durability. If you get the good OFC, you can worry less about having to upsize the wire gauge of your connections.


The 2nd battery will honestly depend on your usage. I mean, are you going to be playing your stereo for long periods of time with the engine off? Are you going to be cranking it full tilt that often where you'd drain it even while running? I'm guessing probably not. Honestly your biggest risk would be too long with the engine off and not be3ing able to start your boat. So defer the 2nd battery if you want and if you're worried about getting stranded get one of those portable jump start packs.

If you're putting it on a float charger nightly (most these days are float chargers, not trickle chargers as trickle doesn't stop charging once it's topped off), then you're probably fine. that's what I do. If you really drain it low, recharge it with a good higher output battery charger, because the little float chargers aren't meant to recharge from a big drain.

I think you made the right choice with a single pair of rev10's. you can always fade them down and don't HAVE to use them to their full potential, but they'll be there when you want them. Personally, I love to have music cranked, even for surfing. You'll want that WS420sq though, because they are so powerful that it's pretty rad to be able to easily fade them relative to the inboats. It'll sound kinda odd w/o a sub, but it's cool to take things in phases and to focus on each zone and do it RIGHT so you don't have to change things out later.

[Rakkasan]

Trayson, thank for the info. Checking out that website they might have everything I'd need the get started.

On the second battery, when we stop and hang out it's usually for only an hour or so and I usually crank the boat about every 30-45 the give the batteries a chance to recharge. I don't think we would drain it. On our LSV we had dual batteries, same ones for about 4-5 years with zero problems.

The charger is a battery tender. One in the house for when the boat's in the garage and the large solar panel one for when the boat at the dock.

I didn't really want the REV10s but after all the research I did and all the info from y'all with personal experience I didn't really see anything negative. There were plenty of options I could have went with but in the end this is a one time thing. Plenty of times when I was younger I did thing cheep to save a dollar just to spend more later to do it right. Never again learned my lesson.

[trayson]

Trayson, thank for the info. Checking out that website they might have everything I'd need the get started.

On the second battery, when we stop and hang out it's usually for only an hour or so and I usually crank the boat about every 30-45 the give the batteries a chance to recharge. I don't think we would drain it. On our LSV we had dual batteries, same ones for about 4-5 years with zero problems.

The charger is a battery tender. One in the house for when the boat's in the garage and the large solar panel one for when the boat at the dock.

I didn't really want the REV10s but after all the research I did and all the info from y'all with personal experience I didn't really see anything negative. There were plenty of options I could have went with but in the end this is a one time thing. Plenty of times when I was younger I did thing cheep to save a dollar just to spend more later to do it right. Never again learned my lesson.

Sounds like you're totally on the right track. on the Rev10, better to have more than you need with some in reserve, than to be wanting.

My setup is like you had on your old boat... I have a pair of Rev410's. Before that I had the Kicker 6500 HLCD 6pack, which was great for 90% of the situations I'd find myself in. I had a deal fall in my lap (like you and your WS amp) that I couldn't pass up. I got my pair of 410's with clamps for $1k from a buddy. And after selling my Kicker 6pack, I was loving life. I don't regret having "too much"!!

You're likely being WAY more vigilant than needed with starting your boat as often as you do. when you're not cranking, you can play your stereo for hours w/o risk of draining all that much. When I had dual batteries, I just had the simple perko and kept one untouched as a reserve battery. I rarely if ever had to use it to get the boat started.

That said, the best and easiest thing you can do is get a DC digital volt gauge off ebay. they are dirt cheap and you can get them rectangle or round. Install it on your amp rack, and just wire it to the Pos and Neg of your battery. when your boat isn't running you'll have a nice digital readout of your battery voltage and you'll easily see how much or how little you're depleting your reserve capacity of your battery. Sure, there's a volt meter on your dash, but having the stand alone gauge tapped straight to the battery is simple and effective. Lots of people have incorporated that into their stereo install. You can find them for under $10 on ebay.

[Stazi]

I put one of those digital volt meters on the rack I am building now. You can see it at the top right hand corner of the upper amp.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/fad50dcbb5a2dbb355cac0c4de1b3db7.jpg
Waiting for one more amp and then I'm done.


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[Rakkasan]

I thought there was a "Show your amp rack" thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. Will the volt meter at the rack show what the rack is drawing versus the one in the dash.

[trayson]

I put one of those digital volt meters on the rack I am building now. You can see it at the top right hand corner of the upper amp.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/fad50dcbb5a2dbb355cac0c4de1b3db7.jpg
Waiting for one more amp and then I'm done.


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That's the exact one I got. Actually I got two. One will be hooked to the main battery(s) and the other to the reserve battery. I love that it's just drill a hole and mounts really easy.


I thought there was a "Show your amp rack" thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. Will the volt meter at the rack show what the rack is drawing versus the one in the dash.

Well, it'll show the voltage on whatever it's hooked up to. So if you hook it up to your main battery, and turn everything off, it'll show the voltage of that battery without all the stuff drawing power. If you are playing the stereo, it'll show how much voltage the battery is at with your stereo pulling power from it. If you then turn your boat on, it shows the voltage with your boat's electronics pulling power from the system (same as your dash gauge), and with the boat running, it shows how much output your alternator is producing.

For me, it's most useful to know voltage with either EVERYTHING off or with just your stereo running. The more is goes below 12 volts, the less reserve you have in your battery and the less likely it'll be for you to be able to start your boat. Likewise, the lower it goes below 12 volts, the less power your amps will make if you are cranking them hard... But in most of our scenarios, we simply want to know how fast we're draining our battery with stereo or how much we have "left" before we start to get nervous about being stranded.

[MLA]

I thought there was a "Show your amp rack" thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. Will the volt meter at the rack show what the rack is drawing versus the one in the dash.

It will show the voltage of what ever battery bank you have the gauge wired to.

[beat taco]

Thanks for the reply guys. You've talked me out of the sub for now on this amp.

But Guy you really suck. I've been looking at REV10s all day. :(

Didn't really want to go that big as we don't really jam out all the time with lots of people. Are the 10s HLCDs less harsh then previous models like to PRO80s? Just don't want the guys in the boat throwing things at me cause their ears are ringing.
No comparison. I would always turn my 80's down. Never my pair of 10's. They're a lot smoother. My ears stopped bleeding. Then I got 4 10's and that was completely unnecessary.

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[beat taco]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/9a12f46568f045ae6f5ba94f81669ebb.jpg

Knuconcepts

[BrettLee3232]

I put one of those digital volt meters on the rack I am building now. You can see it at the top right hand corner of the upper amp.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/fad50dcbb5a2dbb355cac0c4de1b3db7.jpg
Waiting for one more amp and then I'm done.


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Are those the amps from the factory? If so why would skiers choice put in the non marine amp? Looks good though [emoji1305]


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[MLA]

Are those the amps from the factory? If so why would skiers choice put in the non marine amp? Looks good though [emoji1305]


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They for sure use the non marine KX200.2 for the tower as well as the DX250.4 for the in-boats, depending on the year.

[BrettLee3232]

They for sure use the non marine KX200.2 for the tower as well as the DX250.4 for the in-boats, depending on the year.

Yikes, for warranty alone I would imagine they would want the KXM series


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[MLA]

Like most anything else, its a decision driven by money. A few bucks per boat adds up over a few thousand boats. The failure rate under warranty is more than an acceptable risk to them.

With that said, are the use of non marine amps in a boat bad? nope, not in all cases. Non marine amps can last for years in a boat. Not all boats though.

[Stazi]

I had zero amps when I bought the boat. I purchased all of those new through a friend. I built that board etc all from scratch. Not worried about the one non marine amp. If I am getting water to that point in the boat , then I have other major problems to worry about.
I had all non marine amps in my last
Moomba and had zero issues. Would I prefer all marine, sure, but for the price I paid for these, it's not even worth worrying about.


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[MLA]

If I am getting water to that point, then I have other major problems to worry about.

Its a common misconception that "marine" means waterproof.

[Stazi]

I understand that it's a corrosion issue, but I'm not to worried about it.


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[KG's Supra24]

Knu here also for wiring. 12g to the sub. 4g on amps. The tower should already be wired, same with in boats.

Volt meters next to the switch on a panel above the battery compartment (under the small cushion) ....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/cf4d5e41d135208975087265efab73c8.jpg

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[BrettLee3232]

Like most anything else, its a decision driven by money. A few bucks per boat adds up over a few thousand boats. The failure rate under warranty is more than an acceptable risk to them.

With that said, are the use of non marine amps in a boat bad? nope, not in all cases. Non marine amps can last for years in a boat. Not all boats though.

I completely understand the whole cost issue.

They just mix and match though, marine speakers but non marine amps? Kicker in Boats & Roswell tower? Lol




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[beat taco]

My phoenix gold m44 pounded my old DD for over a dozen years running 9 speakers.

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[Rakkasan]

Knu here also for wiring. 12g to the sub. 4g on amps. The tower should already be wired, same with in boats.

Are you sure the tower comes wired from the factory. I asked about haveing the tower wired and was told it was a little over $500 option.

[Stazi]

Mine is. I think it is standard done by Roswell


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[Woody929]

Are you sure the tower comes wired from the factory. I asked about haveing the tower wired and was told it was a little over $500 option.

My 16 Mojo was pre wired, and my boat just hade the base audio package (no amps or bow speakers)

[russellsmojo]

Are you sure the tower comes wired from the factory. I asked about haveing the tower wired and was told it was a little over $500 option.

Yes.


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[KG's Supra24]

Are you sure the tower comes wired from the factory. I asked about haveing the tower wired and was told it was a little over $500 option.

It used to be an option. I'm almost certain every boat is prewired now (unless they went backwards for 2017). It will not be wired for LED.

[Stazi]

I have LED wires too


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[MLA]

I completely understand the whole cost issue.

They just mix and match though, marine speakers but non marine amps? Kicker in Boats & Roswell tower? Lol




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It would be nice if they used all the same class amps. Look off with the 200.2 glowing red and the 800.5 glowing blue. Moving to the 400.2 would double the tower wattage.

[MLA]

It used to be an option. I'm almost certain every boat is prewired now (unless they went backwards for 2017). It will not be wired for LED.

I agree, its certainly an option, but do not know if its standard.

[KG's Supra24]

I have LED wires too


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You have LED wires at each speaker location or you have an overhead light on the tower?

[Stazi]

You have LED wires at each speaker location or you have an overhead light on the tower?

At each location. I pulled all the plugs out in the tower and there were wires at every one. I downloaded the wiring diagram off Roswell to to confirm what each of them was for.
There's even wires on the sides of the tower for the LED accent lights you can add to the bases of the tower.


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[KG's Supra24]

Any chance they did RGB wiring? That would be awesome!

[Stazi]

https://roswellmarine.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/205356468/RWA-C910-3116___3117-_OEM_Aviator_Instructions_-_21-Nov-13_.pdf
This is similar for the Aviator 3 tower, but the 3 has more light output points not shown on this schematic.


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[Stazi]

I won't know more till I get my boat out of storage and dig into my install.


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[BigOrange]

I'm moving from the 4 Roswell tower pods / kicker ks200.2 from factory to exile 30.2 powering 4 exile tower speakers. This setup needs the speakers wired in parallel. Do you all who have the experience know if the factory wiring setup is already in this config? In other words, I shouldn't have to change any wiring in the tower? This would make sense because the factory kicker amp is also a 2-channel.


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[Stazi]

You can wire in parallel or series right at the amp. No need to change anything inside the tower itself.


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[BigOrange]

In other words, 4 wires from amp are independent to 4 pods on tower?


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[KG's Supra24]

You can wire in parallel or series right at the amp. No need to change anything inside the tower itself.


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Wouldn't that mean there needs to be 8 conductors (+ and - for each speaker) coming out of the tower? The diagram you linked only shows 4 conductors and indicates the wires come into the amp compartment wired parallel.

In RE to the Exile setup. You should be able to use the 4 conductors from the tower into the 30.2, giving each pod 210w each.

[Stazi]

Remember this is not the A3 wiring diagram. They have not published that yet.

On my Craz there's are 8 speaker wires coming out the port leg of the tower.

Then the light wires comes out the starboard leg.


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[Rakkasan]

Remember this is not the A3 wiring diagram. They have not published that yet.

On my Craz there's are 8 speaker wires coming out the port leg of the tower.

Then the light wires comes out the starboard leg.


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Do you know what gauge the speaker wire is. I'm sure it's 16ga as that's all the info I'm seeing online. Everyone keeps saying for the REV10 you should use at least 14 even better would be 12. Wanting to do things right the first time is it worth the trouble to upgrade the wiring. I'm sure it's not hard, just tape the new wire to the old and pull the old wire.

[beat taco]

Do you know what gauge the speaker wire is. I'm sure it's 16ga as that's all the info I'm seeing online. Everyone keeps saying for the REV10 you should use at least 14 even better would be 12. Wanting to do things right the first time is it worth the trouble to upgrade the wiring. I'm sure it's not hard, just tape the new wire to the old and pull the old wire.
Yes pull some 12 for the ideal setup. I'm not going to lie though my Supra was 16ga and I'm sure no one could tell!

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[Stazi]

Wires looked like 16ga


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[beat taco]

Wires looked like 16ga


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I meant to this day it's running that way

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[Stazi]

Hey guys,
I emailed Roswell and asked them to send me the wiring diagram for the A3 aviator tower on all of the new 2017 Moombas.

I'm pretty sure that some of you guys were thinking I was talking out of my butt when I said there were extra wires for the speakers, in this new A3 version, and this picture that I am attaching confirms it.

Perhaps the moderators want to save this picture in the archives for future use for other people that end up with the A3 tower.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170314/13fbe91fdfcc78bd1f316dbbc189ad2a.jpg


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[kaneboats]

Looks good. Will add to a sticky info thread.

[Jceclipse01]

Knu here also for wiring. 12g to the sub. 4g on amps. The tower should already be wired, same with in boats.

Volt meters next to the switch on a panel above the battery compartment (under the small cushion) ....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/cf4d5e41d135208975087265efab73c8.jpg

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Where did you get those digital voltmeters from?

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[KG's Supra24]

Where did you get those digital voltmeters from?

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https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMR-Voltage-Gauge-Display/dp/B001HEGBWE/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489601516&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=stinger+digital+voltage+meter

They also have blue ones.

[Rakkasan]

Ok guys, I've been looking at distribution blocks, in line fuse holders, circuit breakers, power cables, ground cables, Perkos, AND ON AND ON AND ON......

Think I might be overthinking things for my application. I came across the pic online that shows the stock amp board from a 2016 Craz with the bow speaker amp upgrade( same as I getting, probably.) I looks like the Kicker amp is getting power from a stock distribution block with a 8ga wire and inline fuse.

Question: Can I run my SNY-4 from that block using a 4ga and inline fuse?

Sure would simply my setup and save on rewiring everything until I decide to put the second battery and third amp with sub in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170316/38ada0b455b7b96b3ab1400e5219b9ff.jpg

[BigOrange]

I'm going to piggyback on this latest post......so I think I have same distro block and wiring to the factory KX200.2 in my Mojo. My current change to Exile 30.2 (tower) and Javelin (cabin + sub) calls for 4 AWG wire for hot and ground. If Rak is correct that the factory is 8 AWG, looks like I need all new. Can I power off of that distro block with no issues? IS the supply wires to the distro block from battery / perko sufficient?

[TrueKaotik]

Upgrade the wires going to Factory distri to 1/0 and use 4 gauge from it to your amplifiers for best results. The 2 gauge power from factory is sufficient for two amplifiers though.

[Rakkasan]

Upgrade the wires going to Factory distri to 1/0 and use 4 gauge from it to your amplifiers for best results. The 2 gauge power from factory is sufficient for two amplifiers though.

Awesome thanks. Didn't know that the factory wire was 2 gauge. Will definitely upgrade. Any idea what the inline fuse size for a SNY-4 would be.

[MLA]

Although it is 2ga, the proper gauge is derived by the potential cumulative Ampere draw x distance, and not the number of amplifiers. As an example, 2ga could be too small to drive 1 single 2500W rms mono amp, but could easily power ten Kicker PXi waterpsorts amps.

I would do those calculations now and see what the 2ga will support in terms or current draw. This will let you know if you can hold off on the total rewire for the future 3rd amp, or you need to upgrade now. If the later is the case, I would bypass that BUS setup all together for the 3 amp. Leave it as is, unless you needed that realastate for the amps. Best route to go with an unknown woofer amp and possibly a future in-boat amp upgrade.

80W would be the max, but could operate on a much smaller value, depending on how its configured.

[TrueKaotik]

Awesome thanks. Didn't know that the factory wire was 2 gauge. Will definitely upgrade. Any idea what the inline fuse size for a SNY-4 would be.
70-75 amp fuse is for a Syn4.
I have done several Moomba's, length was factored in for the amps you said.

[BigOrange]

Any issue connecting both (2 amps in my case) or even 3 ground wires to the single negative/ground post on the factory block as pictured above?

[TrueKaotik]

Orange, I always like a nice 1/0 to block no matter length because I know it will support most add on. Especially when batteries are so close and it's cheap to do in most newer boats with batteries in or near observers compartment. But, technical talk, 200amps max to blow fuses on both Exiles and the battery is way less than 10 feet from amp rack. To be honest 4 gauge works up to 10 ft @ 200 continuous amps drawn. So I think your good too bud...

[BigOrange]

Great, thanks for the advice and input. I plan on putting 4 awg for both hot and ground from amps to factory block. Will consider changing to 1 Awg from batteries to block -- if not now, in the future.

[Rakkasan]

Alright guys my build start date is next week and I have almost every the figured out just a few more questions.

1) Anyone know what length cable I'd need to buy to upgrade the 2ga power/negative to the 1/0.
2) Same with the 4ga for the amps. What's a safe estimate for amp wire length to avoid ordering to short or way to much?
3) RCAs. Should I run splitters at the HU and separate cable to both amps or keep the factory cable and split at the amp end.

I'm sure there's more but that's all I can think of now.

Also anyone with the '17 Craz does the A3 tower come drilled and taped at the factory speaker mount so I can just mount the Revs with xmounts and adapters or is there more work to it.

Thanks. I'm getting the bug with and empty garage and nothing to work on.

[mattsask]

The power and ground source are mounted directly on the amp rack. Depending on install coniguration, 3 ft max per amp

[BigOrange]

Rak, I went with 8 feet each of power and ground wire (4 awg) in order to do 2 amps. Haven't gotten to install yet but will soon. Should be plenty. Ordered from Knu konceptz as suggested on this forum.


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[Rakkasan]

Rak, I went with 8 feet each of power and ground wire (4 awg) in order to do 2 amps. Haven't gotten to install yet but will soon. Should be plenty. Ordered from Knu konceptz as suggested on this forum.


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Thanks I'm planning or ordering from them as well. I guessin 3-4 feet on the wire from the batteries and the 8 ft you suggested seems pretty conservative and should be enough. I'll probably get my RCAs from them also. They seem pretty good on their prices and have a lot of folks out there using them.

[TrueKaotik]

Alright guys my build start date is next week and I have almost every the figured out just a few more questions.

1) Anyone know what length cable I'd need to buy to upgrade the 2ga power/negative to the 1/0.
2) Same with the 4ga for the amps. What's a safe estimate for amp wire length to avoid ordering to short or way to much?
3) RCAs. Should I run splitters at the HU and separate cable to both amps or keep the factory cable and split at the amp end.

I'm sure there's more but that's all I can think of now.

Also anyone with the '17 Craz does the A3 tower come drilled and taped at the factory speaker mount so I can just mount the Revs with xmounts and adapters or is there more work to it.

Thanks. I'm getting the bug with and empty garage and nothing to work on.
1) 4 foot tops from battery to factory block.
2) 3 foot or less for each amp.
3) you should have another RCA output (rear) from HU. I would use these and run a new line to amplifer as splitting the current RCA diminishes output voltage.
Show a pic of your tower and I can tell you for sure what is needed. Some of the Moomba towers require modification to fit in factory location, so a pic will help me know what tower.

[Rakkasan]

Ok new question. I'm was pretty excited that the Fusion HU that comes with the Craz has a built in zone control but bummed to find out it only works when the speakers are hard wired into the HU. Since there's only one set of RCA outs and they control zone 1. I know everyone will say buy an EQ with zone control but I'm coming close to my budget limit on audio at the moment so. What if I got what's in the link below and hooked it to the Zone 2 wires coming out of HU. Wouldn't that give the zone control back to the Fusion Head Unit.

Has anyone used something like this before and if so do you lose and sound quality?


https://www.amazon.com/Level-Converter-Cable-fusion-Electronics/dp/B0072793NE

[russellsmojo]

You are correct on hu. You are also on the right track for converting speaker wires into rca. I was never able to get a straight answer on how this device would impact sound.

Hu still does not work like an eq you would buy. You can set max levels only. I think you will want an eq in the end and so if budget is tight I would wait until you can do eq( there is a good price on one on this forum right now).

I had to send my eq back to exile and went several months without. The stereo jammed just fine. So save your bucks for now and do it right once later.


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[David Analog]

Ok new question. I'm was pretty excited that the Fusion HU that comes with the Craz has a built in zone control but bummed to find out it only works when the speakers are hard wired into the HU. Since there's only one set of RCA outs and they control zone 1. I know everyone will say buy an EQ with zone control but I'm coming close to my budget limit on audio at the moment so. What if I got what's in the link below and hooked it to the Zone 2 wires coming out of HU. Wouldn't that give the zone control back to the Fusion Head Unit.

Has anyone used something like this before and if so do you lose and sound quality?


https://www.amazon.com/Level-Converter-Cable-fusion-Electronics/dp/B0072793NE

A line output convertor can definitely degrade audio quality. Some, not all, amplifiers can process a speaker level HU output without such a convertor, whether by having separate high level inputs, or a selectable RCA input level with a differential input. If you need to add something external, use a dual line driver controller, like the Kicker or two JL Audio. These items will give you the dual zone control less expensively than an EQ and in a cleaner manner than an EQ by not extending the signal path with long to and from RCA cables. Also, these components give you dual zone control at your fingertips with the smallest possible footprint....just two small rotary controls.

[russellsmojo]

Did you want 2 or 3 zones?


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[Rakkasan]

Did you want 2 or 3 zones?


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I really just want the two zones. Planned on putting the towers on the RCAs for zone one with the possibility of putting the cabins on zone two with the converter. I was thinking that with the unit made by the same company(Fusion) they would match up nice without too much lose in signal.
But if it does than I'm only out $20 for the converter. Then I guess I'll just toss it buy some RCA splitters and run one zone until I can pull for a real EQ.

Am I on the wrong track of thinking?

[trayson]

A line output convertor can definitely degrade audio quality. Some, not all, amplifiers can process a speaker level HU output without such a convertor, whether by having separate high level inputs, or a selectable RCA input level with a differential input. If you need to add something external, use a dual line driver controller, like the Kicker or two JL Audio. These items will give you the dual zone control less expensively than an EQ and in a cleaner manner than an EQ by not extending the signal path with long to and from RCA cables. Also, these components give you dual zone control at your fingertips with the smallest possible footprint....just two small rotary controls.

Listen to David. That converter will make your signal worse. Don't do it. They make cheap zone controllers like David said. That would be okay.

[BrettLee3232]

I have the kicker zone controllers in my boat & they are awesome. I have 4 zones of audio: cabin, bow, tower & subs. Custom installed where the ACC switches were. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170328/952c7bb011d76d3f38243bddf9ad5d21.jpg


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[trayson]

So, $100 for the kicker to control 2 zones... Or $219 for the Wetsounds 420SQ on Amazon. I know what I'd do...
https://www.amazon.com/Wet-Sounds-WS-420-SQ-Parametric/dp/B00DNK10HG

[MLA]

The fusion 205 "zone" control is nothing more than fade with only a single pair of RCA cable outs. So you first have to have all the speakers on external amps. Other wise, zone control like tower volume, will also control the front, or bow speakers if still on the head unit.

Im not opposed to a hi to low converter, providing the amp thats getting those RCA's, can compensate for that signal. Most Kicker amp, which still come OEM in the Moomba in 2016, will. However, the converter itself can also be a source of unwanted noise, as is anything we put in the signal patch. I have not used the fusion converter, so no experience with it.

This is where i like a dual zone control like the Kicker ZXM-RLC. It only needs that single stereo RCA output to give you dual zone. Rather than divide the voltage, it is a 9V per chnl line level driver. Requires short RCA cables as the brain gets mounted by amps and knobs connect via data cables.

Knobs can be surface or panel mounted.

Easy to pair the woofer with either zone, your preference, or if the woofer amp accommodates a sub level control, you now have 3 zones.

[russellsmojo]

Do at least 3 zones.


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[trayson]

Easy to pair the woofer with either zone, your preference, or if the woofer amp accommodates a sub level control, you now have 3 zones.


Do at least 3 zones.


If he goes with a 2 zone right now, then it'd be easy enough to get a sub amp with a remote level control knob when he does add a sub down the road. Like MLA said.

[russellsmojo]

You are correct. My thought is it will sound and jam fine for now until it can be done the best way.


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[Rakkasan]

We're getting there

[Rakkasan]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170417/3553ed75bc52c1131ff2b5a79edd77d6.jpg

[dusty2221]

:o ;) :)

What are you waiting for, get to work!

[Rakkasan]

:o ;) :)

What are you waiting for, get to work!

Still waiting on the tower adapters. There taking foreverrrrrrrrrr

[rdlangston13]

Anyone know what gauge wire the tower is prewired with?


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[mattsask]

Anyone know what gauge wire the tower is prewired with?


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My 2016 craz came wired with 16 gauge. I literally just finished installing some different towers and amp. I'm on the fence about pulling some 12g when I find the time. Running about 240 rms to each speaker

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[rdlangston13]

My 2016 craz came wired with 16 gauge. I literally just finished installing some different towers and amp. I'm on the fence about pulling some 12g when I find the time. Running about 240 rms to each speaker

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What speakers are you running?


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[mattsask]

I just have a pair of krypt 7.7 HLCD's bridged off a 4 channel kicker. Color me impressed.... They are loud!

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[MLA]

With that wattage and distance of a typical tower run, 16ga is a little light. Pull 12ga you would not need to ever upgrade again again.

[BigOrange]

It is 16 ga from the factory. On my 16 Mojo anyway

[Rakkasan]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/2a993dca1c430fa02d342e1183bb93ca.jpg

Let's build something

[Rakkasan]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/1f03cc18f1ab37aa13c3d625edd42142.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/fa89e43aecb0f3870f78c8fa99adac5e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/a19914db182158cdb1a78e0ab36a607d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/327fed68ff8bc9711e46346d3cedb3ba.jpg

Done and WOW!!!

I'm glad I took off today to install and didn't do this on a weekend. Cause if my neighbors were home they'd be piss at how loud this thing is.

Still have sone fine tuning to do but there are a beast.

[trayson]

I can relate and tend to agree... (and then some!)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/traysonh/Moomba%20XLV/20160611_131921_zpszqt76ztp.jpg

[Stazi]

Getting my Craz out of storage tomorrow and installing my stereo on Sunday.


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[Stazi]

Started installing my amps today on my 2017 Craz. Is that blue wire with black stripe with round butt connector that is attached to the bow and port speaker wires near the molex connectors, the remote amp power wire?


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[Rakkasan]

Started installing my amps today on my 2017 Craz. Is that blue wire with black stripe with round butt connector that is attached to the bow and port speaker wires near the molex connectors, the remote amp power wire?


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My remote turn on was blue/white. If you look at the top of the picture of the amp rack you'll see the speaker wire connection with a singe wire. That's the remote turn on I just used shrink wrap over the butt connecter. If you have single wire around the molex that might be it maybe the factory ran out of wire. You could always look at the connection behind the Fusion head unit and see what color is hooked to the remote turn on wire.

[Rakkasan]

Just checked the manual. According the Fusion the remote turn on should be Blue with White stripe.

[mattsask]

It's possible the wire changed color somewhere between the HU and amp. My HU ground was not the same color by the time it reached it's destination. I had to do some wire tracing because I removed the old amp in the fall and forgot that they ground the HU to the amp from the factory.

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[Rakkasan]

That's what I was thinking. Hook a test light up to it and cycle the key to ACC and see if it goes on and off.

[Stazi]

Yeah the Fusion HU has the typical blue/white wire going into the molex on one side and then grey/green coming out which I though was weird. Then by the speaker wires where the amp rack goes there is one single blue/black wire with a round remake butt connector on it. I guess I will just turn on the HU and see if it energizes. Really strange. Can't think what else that single blue wire that was taped to the speaker wires would be for.....


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[Stazi]

Yeah that wire didnt work. It was only 4.3V. So I had to run a remote wire all the way around to the helm and hook it up to one of the accessory switches. So I have to turn on the amps manually. It's annoying but it works. I even check the blue white wire coming out of the Fusion HU and it wasn't even going to 12V when I turned the thing on. Totally blizzard.


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[Rakkasan]

I'm not 100% but I would think you'd be fine with 4volts for the amp turn on. All the turn on it doing is flipping an internal "switch" to start receiving power from the main cable.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[Stazi]

You would think so, but it wasn't working. Maybe because I have 3 amps and the ZLCD all connected to the same remote wire?


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[rdlangston13]

The remote turn on is only supposed to be 5 volts I thought.


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[Stazi]

I googled it and it said 12V. Regardless,it would not turn any of the amps on. Perhaps the load sharing across 4 devices is causing the problem. First time I have even had this issue amongst the numerous stereo setups I have done on boats and cars. Maybe I can mess with it later. At least the switch has me up and running for now. Has anyone else figured out what those other two accessory switches are connected to? 2 of the 3 have wires connected to the closed circuit side of the switch. I used the one that didn't to connect the remote wire to.


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[MLA]

Hope you didnt use a test light to find that turn-on lead? That could easily pop the output.

[Stazi]

Nope. I only ever use a multimeter.


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[rdlangston13]

With that wattage and distance of a typical tower run, 16ga is a little light. Pull 12ga you would not need to ever upgrade again again.

Will on set of two conductor 12 gauge wire support 2 rev 10a or does each speaker need its own run of wire from amp if you are running 2 pairs of 10s?


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[MLA]

Will on set of two conductor 12 gauge wire support 2 rev 10a or does each speaker need its own run of wire from amp if you are running 2 pairs of 10s?


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Knowing the amp choice, 14-4 per pair good, 12-4 per pair best.

[Stazi]

Here's a couple a pics of my installhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/e2a4b0ed9126ea0701cd9c8579429d51.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/54d2115cd62a6660190ef4867df0385a.jpg


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[Stazi]

Big shout out thank you to Mike (MLA) for noticing an RCA issue on my setup and helping me optimize my stereo install. Thank you sir!


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[mattsask]

Big shout out thank you to Mike (MLA) for noticing an RCA issue on my setup and helping me optimize my stereo install. Thank you sir!


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Did you relocate the power and ground terminals that were on the amp rack or are they in a different location on the 17's?

Like this...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/c9ccb4fc909af041d660c7906bda6aed.jpg

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[Stazi]

I didn't have an amp rack. I made
mine from scratch. Finding the matching carpet was one of the trickiest things. Now I have extra if anyone needs some.

PS my power and ground run straight back to my extra battery I added just for the stereo.


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[mattsask]

I didn't have an amp rack. I made
mine from scratch. Finding the matching carpet was one of the trickiest things. Now I have extra if anyone needs some.

PS my power and ground run straight back to my extra battery I added just for the stereo.


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Oooh cool. Well done, it looks amazing! So you're running three batteries? What are you using for a zone controller?

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[Stazi]

No. Two batteries. My boat only came with one. I am using the Kicker ZXMRLC 2-zone controller. I also have a sub controller off the 800.5.
I can take pics of the mini rack I made for those out of a trimmed piece of cutting board that I was making suck gates out of. [emoji23]


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[mattsask]

Lol. I have a few hacked up cutting boards laying around from the same thing. Great suggestion!

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[Stazi]

Then I zip tied it to the underside of the steering rack. Knobs aren't visible, but I can reach under there and turn the towers up and down easily, and adjust the sub for subtlety or crank it up for a testicular massage.


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[KG's Supra24]

That looks great! Speakers fill the tower

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[Stazi]

Here's the zone controller mini rack I made. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/a58874e3d82538cef8e160d72425671b.jpg


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[That Guy]

Haha, that's exactly what I did.

[MLA]

The Kicker ZXM-RLC knobs can also be removed from the housing and panel mounted.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a217/mikesliquidaudio/IMG_20170310_122815034_zpstqnl0vge.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/mikesliquidaudio/media/IMG_20170310_122815034_zpstqnl0vge.jpg.html)

[BrettLee3232]

The Kicker ZXM-RLC knobs can also be removed from the housing and panel mounted.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a217/mikesliquidaudio/IMG_20170310_122815034_zpstqnl0vge.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/mikesliquidaudio/media/IMG_20170310_122815034_zpstqnl0vge.jpg.html)

Or ACC switch mounted :-D

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/5dad5cbcb3bd67c1cc75bb1d4048a80b.png


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[Stazi]

Yeah like what you did Brett.


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[rdlangston13]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/2a993dca1c430fa02d342e1183bb93ca.jpg

Let's build something

What clamp did you have to order to use the stock mounting location?


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[Rakkasan]

https://wetsounds.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=WSACNAT-FC5-U

This is what I have with the Rev10 X-Mount. My biggest concern was not knowing if the tower was pre drilled for the adapter as I couldn't find any pictures online. But rest assured the tower IS pre drilled and fits perfect.

[stevemarich]

used some homemade mounts to hide the wires,

2551425515

[Stazi]

Cool


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[Jdrundell]

My tower is black. Do you see a lot of the adapter? Should I powdercoat them?

[Rakkasan]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/8842fa4b6bb602070e1e0d6a890bff25.jpg

Here's a pic from the sun deck. I think the chrome ties in nice with the bright aluminum on the Bimini arms, board racks, and pylon on the tower.

[Rakkasan]

And the chrome on the speaker grill

[Jdrundell]

Thanks! That does look good. That's my project for this weekend.

[ktenan12]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/1f03cc18f1ab37aa13c3d625edd42142.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/fa89e43aecb0f3870f78c8fa99adac5e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/a19914db182158cdb1a78e0ab36a607d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170421/327fed68ff8bc9711e46346d3cedb3ba.jpg

Done and WOW!!!

I'm glad I took off today to install and didn't do this on a weekend. Cause if my neighbors were home they'd be piss at how loud this thing is.

Still have sone fine tuning to do but there are a beast.

I've spent 3 days online trying to find these exact pictures. MLA gave me some good info, but I really wanted to see what it looked like done. Your's looks awesome! Did you need the X-Kit to mount the adapter to the pod? I'm not sure if I'm going to use the swivels or not, but I want to have all the parts necessary to see which option looks best. I have a white tower, any thoughts on painting the adapter to match either the pod or the tower?

[MLA]

I've spent 3 days online trying to find these exact pictures. MLA gave me some good info, but I really wanted to see what it looked like done. Your's looks awesome! Did you need the X-Kit to mount the adapter to the pod? I'm not sure if I'm going to use the swivels or not, but I want to have all the parts necessary to see which option looks best. I have a white tower, any thoughts on painting the adapter to match either the pod or the tower?

You will need hardware included with the "X" mount pods, if you choose to NOT use the TC3-S clamp base.

[ktenan12]

You will need hardware included with the "X" mount pods, if you choose to NOT use the TC3-S clamp base.

Just ordered. Hopefully they ship quickly.

[ktenan12]

Brackets and X mounts came in and Rev 10's are on the tower (not wired yet). I love they way they look vs. the swivel clamps. Going to start work on the amp and wiring install today. My question is this... My boat came from the factory with just the 4 midship Wetsounds speakers but my plan is to try and balance everything out with 2 additional in the bow, the Rev 10's and a sub. The package for the rev's came with the HTX-4 amp. It sounds like adding a second battery is almost required for all of that equipment along with another amp. Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to do this most efficiently? Can I get the revs powered now and add the additional components as funds allow? I don't want to get started on all of this if in the long run I should have set it up different from the start. I'm not looking to send sound waves into outer space here, just want a sound system on a reasonable budget. I'd love to see pictures of what others have done. Thanks!

Also, swivel clamps for sale if anyone is interested. Send me a PM.

[MLA]

It sounds like adding a second battery is almost required for all of that equipment along with another amp.

This will depend on how much anchor play time you want. Im a huge fan of a dual-bank system on a boat, regardless of stereo draw and anchor/sand bar time.

Hard to beat a simple 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch.


Can I get the revs powered now and add the additional components as funds allow?

Absolutely, because a pair of rev-10 are going to occupy all 4 chnls of an HTX-4. So adding bow speakers later, will not be hinged on your tower setup.