Cap and rotor replacement.

[bzubke1]

Would an automotive cap and rotor work fine? I can get one for a chevy truck for $25 with brass contacts vs paying $80 for the marine version.

[trayson]

Would an automotive cap and rotor work fine? I can get one for a chevy truck for $25 with brass contacts vs paying $80 for the marine version.

I threw a automotive cap and rotor in mine because it's what I could find in a pinch. it's working fine and mine doesn't even have the brass. I just figure on mine that I'll replace it sooner. That said, if you have brass, then I'd do it and not look back. Many people have done the same.

[gregski]

NO, NO, NO.

It could "work" just fine, but these are exactly the kind of parts that must be marine rated (explosion proof). If anything ever happened that you had a bit of fuel vapor in the bilge, this would be your spark source and then big boom. If you are in a pinch and need to get off the water, then by all means use an auto parts store part, leave the cover open for a long time and then start it with fire extinguisher in hand but I wouldn't want to do it more than once.

[lee]

NO, NO, NO.

It could "work" just fine, but these are exactly the kind of parts that must be marine rated (explosion proof). If anything ever happened that you had a bit of fuel vapor in the bilge, this would be your spark source and then big boom. If you are in a pinch and need to get off the water, then by all means use an auto parts store part, leave the cover open for a long time and then start it with fire extinguisher in hand but I wouldn't want to do it more than once.


He is talking about just a cap and rotor not the complete distributor.

[gregski]

He is talking about just a cap and rotor not the complete distributor.
The cap and rotor is exactly where the spark happens every time a cylinder fires. Isn't the cap modified to be sealed?

[trayson]

Here's corroded the "marine" cap that was on my XLV. just attached to the distrib with 2 screws. nothing to seal anything...

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/traysonh/Moomba%20XLV/20160724_172532_zpsdpsehwcn.jpg

[kaneboats]

I sent Engine Nut a PM and asked him to weigh in. Let's see what he says.

[fu-man]

If you check the cap at regular intervals you can clean the brass contacts with some wet sand paper before the oxidation builds up too badly. Pretty easy to do if you catch it before it gets too bad...and its free.

[lee]

The distributor housing is sealed from spark not the cap itself. If the cap is seated onto the housing correctly and screwed down tightly, spark should not escape.

[kaneboats]

From Engine Nut PM:

The caps and rotors used on Indmar engines are no different than those used in automotive applications. The distributor itself is a marine specific component due to the requirement that the distributor vents must prevent any arcing that would occur inside the distributor from igniting gasoline fumes in the engine compartment. Other marine specific components are starters, alternators, carburetors and flame arrestors. Look for the number J1171 on the starter, alternator and distributor. This is the identification number of the test that the US Coast Guard uses to ensure those components are spark arrested. The number on the flame arrestor is J1939 and on a carburetor, the fuel bowl vents must direct any fuel back into the throat of the carburetor in case the float sticks and the float bowl overflows. Hope this helps.

Larry Engelbert
Indmar Marine Engines
"Power to the Sport"

Thanks, Larry!

[zabooda]

A lot of good information in that one paragraph.

[kaneboats]

Yea, always good info from Larry. Not sure why he didn't reply in the thread -- I sent him the link. Maybe he's busy. Glad he still takes the time out to answer our questions.

[trayson]

Well done Kane. I think that puts the issue to bed FO SHO!.

And I won't sweat the "automotive" cap and rotor on my XLV.

[bzubke1]

Great information, thanks guys. I was thinking I would get the cap and rotor from a 98 Silverado with the 5.7. Looks exactly the same.