View Full Version : First time out, engine died on me!!

07-29-2006, 08:55 PM
Okay, I have a brand spanking new Outback DD and the first time out I get about 100 ft. from the ramp and the engine just dies like I hit the kill switch or something. I know you're thinking I pulled the cord, but trust me, that's not the issue. I will probably have to take it back to the dealer for service, but was wondering if anyone had any thoughts of a simple fix? It turns over and everything, but just won't start.

I am in not way an engine buff, but just from looking in the rear, there is a black wire just hanging there, I will try and take a pic of it and maybe if someone else has this boat, they can tell if it's supposed to be plugged in somewhere, I mean I'm not genious, but it seems like it shouldn't just be hanging there.

HELP ME, I want to go out tomorrow!


07-29-2006, 09:18 PM
Well I have a great picture, it's even small enough to upload, but I keep getting some weird error message, so if anyone can help, I can email them the pic.

Thanks again

07-29-2006, 09:31 PM
Ok, another reply from myself :) I was reading that this could be a loose engine ground? Since ground wires are black, maybe this is what's keeping my engine from starting, if I jus knew where it goes!

07-30-2006, 12:04 AM
Email me the pic (joe1 @ joetechie . com)

I'll post it for all to see.

A few quetions that will help us:

What size engine ?
Did the dealer do a checkout on it ?

Things do come loose in travel so It could be nothing.


07-30-2006, 11:26 AM
Here is the pic:


It is the 310 Carb. engine.

07-30-2006, 04:34 PM

This may be a waste of your time since I don't have the same boat, but it's worth a shot. Here's a photo of what mine looks like - this is from my '05 Mobius LSV 325MPI

The black wire that leads to the yellow connector is the ground for the wakeplate hydraulics, so that's probably not what you're looking for. Might be a good idea to check for a similar connector that's missing the wire, though. One thing I noticed in your photo - I don't see a black wire leading to the purple molex connector - maybe it's hidden by the other wires? Mine has a black wire there.

Hope this doesn't make things worse.



07-30-2006, 04:58 PM
Thanks for the help, I still can't figure out if it's supposed to be connected to anything, there just doesn't seem like there is anywhere for it to go. Upon futher investigation, I can say that it is coming from the part that all the spark plugs are connected to. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and let you all know what they, I'm sure you can't wait!! haha, thanks again, let me know if you think of anything else


07-30-2006, 09:26 PM
That wire is not to be hooked up to anything during normal operation. It is used to time the engine. That is not your problem. Is the engine getting fuel?

07-31-2006, 08:37 AM
If that wire really is for engine timing only it shoud have a little tag.

07-31-2006, 08:54 AM
Thanks for clearing that up for me, I just thought it was odd that it wasn't connected to anything. As far as I can tell, the boat is getting fuel, I am no mechanic, but I took the top off and the carb was wet with fuel. IS there any other way to tell if it's getting fuel?

07-31-2006, 08:57 AM
Here's another related question, if I want to try and start the boat in my driveway, I know I need to cool the engine if it does fire up, can I do this with a hose or something? If so, where do I put it and is this probably a bad idea anyways?

Thanks again everything, sorry for the dumb questions

Father of 5
07-31-2006, 03:41 PM
You can run your boat in the driveway but only with cooling water to the engine. If you look under the boat back near the driveshaft there is a brass fitting that bulges down a little bit and acts as a screen for lake water. The raw water pump on the very front of the engine pulls water up from the lake and pumps it throught the engine on open system boats. Do not run your boat even for a short time without water coming to the raw water pump. the impeller is rubber and will last about ten seconds with out cooling water. Also do not put the boat in gear because the packing around the driveshaft needs water for cooling nad running it dry is likely to damage it. You need a "fake a lake" you can get them from Overtons or other marine supply places. It looks like an upside down plunger with a hose connection. You cover the raw water intake on the bottom of the boat with the fake a lake extend the fake a lake leg to the ground and attach a hose. Run a little water to the boat and you can run your boat in the driveway. I use my fake a lake in the spring and fall to winterize and dewinterize my boat. Pays for itself the first time you use it. As far as the boat not running. I assume the motor will turn over on the starter. I figure you tried to restart it more than once when it first died on the lake. You just need a couple of things for a carb motor to run. The first is fuel. Once you get a setup where you can try to start the boat (ie cooling water) look down the carb while cranking the boat. See if fuel is coming in. I do not know if the carb boats have an accelerator pump but if they do advancing the throttle(not in gear) will add a spuirt of fuel down the carb. If you are getting fuel then I would suspect bad spark or way off time. You can test the spark be grounding a lead from a plug to some place on the engine. Be careful when doing this. the voltage is high on the spark plug side (use gloves) also no fuel or fuel fumes nearby. I normally stick a phillips screw driver into the spark plug boot and hold the handle. Rest the shaft of the screwdriver near a suitable ground on the engine. You should see a spark from the screwdriver to ground as the engine is turned over. If not check the high tension lead from the coil the same way. You might want to check that the coil is getting power before you try this test. With a 12v automovite test light check the terminal on the coil with the switch on. If you don't have 12v at one of the coil terminals with the switch on find that problem 1st. I do not know if these methods are acceptable for use on your boat but when my carburated cars act up these are the methods I use.
Good Luck

07-31-2006, 06:53 PM
Mase, I have the 310 carb engine and that black wire hanging off the bottom of the distributor is normal. Thanks Orlandoboats for clarifying its use. (I always assumed it was for some kind of option I didn't order) Anyway, If your carb is getting fuel (easy to check) my vote is for a wire that came loose. Your engine has electronic ignition and it sounds like your spark plugs are not firing. Also, with a brand new engine that ran fine and acutely died, pulling a key wire off sounds logical. Also, there is a red reset button at the back of your engine block (I think on the right side) for whatever that's worth. I would push the button, check all the wires (except the black loose one of course) and try it again. If that failed, I would punt to the dealer.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

07-31-2006, 10:04 PM
Thanks all for your help, I got the boat running in the lake and had a great hour or so until it kicked off again and wouldn't fire up, I talked to the dealer and he is sure that it is either vapor lock or a bad fuel pump, in either case, and this is the real kicker, is having his service guy drive an hour and a half to my house tomorrow to take a look at it, now that's service!!! I kind of doubt the vapor lock, but it was over 100 the last 3 days, so who knows!

I'll keep you all informed

Brian Raymond
07-31-2006, 11:17 PM
Orlandoboats, nice call on the shunt wire off the distributor. Here are some other things to check. There is a fuel pump/oil pressure switch just under the distributor with 3 wires and 2 leads. This is a safety device, if you should drop oil press., it shuts off the fuel pump. Make sure these connections are firm. The kill switch can also be a booger, verify that it is hooked up correctly, and both purple wires are secure on the backside, and follow the wires under the dash to verify that the jumper (further up in the harness is secure). The purple wire on the backside of the key switch may also be loose, check it. I am sorry to hear of your inconvenieces, hope this helps. I am also in dobt it is a vapor lock issue. Keep us posted. Brian Raymond

08-01-2006, 08:34 AM
Another dealer doing the right thing and proving that in fact that it is just a few bad apples. It's good to hear this good luck I hope it works out for you


08-01-2006, 04:15 PM
I had the key wire come loose, and cutting the boat off, fried the rpm guage etc. SC sent me a new gauge and after tightening the wire have had two years without another occurance.

08-07-2006, 07:52 AM
Well, I got my boat back from the dealer on Friday and took it out on Sunday. No problems to speak of! They couldn't really narrow the exact problem down, but they did experience the same symptoms that I did on the water. They replaced the carb and the fuel pump and that seemed to do the trick. They said there was def. a carb problem (it was supposed to be at 2 turns and it was at 4 or something). Anyways, great service and I'm a happy camper for now.

Thanks for all your replies.

08-07-2006, 12:04 PM
Thanks for the follow-up Mase