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aapwayneo2001
12-10-2016, 05:00 PM
As the title says...last winters winterization didn't go well. My question is...go back stock or is there another option for mor hp and low end torque for surfing

09 LSV indmar 325

beat taco
12-10-2016, 05:37 PM
I suggest one of these for moar powa!
http://m.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/lsa.html#.WEx1PcuIbqA

aapwayneo2001
12-10-2016, 06:14 PM
I suggest one of these for moar powa!
http://m.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/lsa.html#.WEx1PcuIbqA


You convince my wife and I'll do it!! I need something more close to stock or just a bit more hp but still bolt up to stock accessories etc

aapwayneo2001
12-10-2016, 06:24 PM
Would a stock gm vortec (car/truck) engine work?

beat taco
12-10-2016, 06:46 PM
Yes that's what they are. You just put brass freeze plugs in them. If I was really looking for more realistic hp I would upgrade the heads, you could have a sweet little motor if you want to play with it. But a stock bottom end will be plenty.

aapwayneo2001
12-10-2016, 07:02 PM
Yes that's what they are. You just put brass freeze plugs in them. If I was really looking for more realistic hp I would upgrade the heads, you could have a sweet little motor if you want to play with it. But a stock bottom end will be plenty.


So maybe a performance upgrade from summit maybe? I read something about the cams being different is that the case?

parrothd
12-10-2016, 07:38 PM
Don't bother upgrading, not worth the $$$, just upgrade the prop. I probably run more ballast then you and no issues. Acme 1433 baby..

beat taco
12-10-2016, 08:37 PM
Been a while but I think it's just a rv cam.

james yarosz
12-11-2016, 06:16 PM
You know some cracked blocks can be repaired.

sandm
12-11-2016, 08:36 PM
boats certainly are not like cars in that they don't have the same aftermarket support to facilitate upgrades. I would not want to take the chance upgrading the block and hoping the ecu can figure out what you have done. if it was my boat, I'd follow parrot and rebuild to factory specs with a different prop if you need it.

good luck either way....

lee
12-11-2016, 10:17 PM
I have used quite a few of Jasper Marine engines and had good luck.

http://www.jasperengines.com/marine-engines

Darter
12-12-2016, 10:16 AM
So inquiring minds want to know... where did the water remain and freeze?

aapwayneo2001
12-12-2016, 02:14 PM
So inquiring minds want to know... where did the water remain and freeze?

I'm not sure but the crack runs from freeze plug to freeze plug so I don't think it's repairable

lee
12-12-2016, 07:08 PM
Is the crack just external or is it internal?

MJHSupra
12-12-2016, 08:20 PM
I have buddy on the Supra site that replaced a v8.1 motor last summer. There is a thread on it, cannot find it.
He wanted the same, he was happy with the motor and wanted to stay with what the boat came with.

He purchased a remanufactured motor from http://www.barrmarine.net/.
They are located in VA. I know they sell different displacements. They have warranties as well. He bought the one from VA and was back in the water in a few weeks - did not want to loose more summer boating time.

Otherwise, I would call Indmar and see what they throw out there in your region

Mark

DOCDRS
12-13-2016, 01:17 AM
ok , have to ask.....how was it winterized?

kaneboats
12-13-2016, 05:32 PM
You might want to send Larry a PM (Engine Nut). He may have some great advice for you.

MJHSupra
12-13-2016, 07:37 PM
You might want to send Larry a PM (Engine Nut). He may have some great advice for you.

I was trying to think of that guy's name (Larry). He's probably forgot more than I will ever know about those motors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

aapwayneo2001
12-13-2016, 08:33 PM
ok , have to ask.....how was it winterized?

The wrong way...lol when I had my DD I hooked a hose to the water pump and let the engine pull the antifreeze in and circulated it from the exhaust...thought this would work the same but obviously not...I guess the water flows from intake-vdrive-engine

aapwayneo2001
12-13-2016, 08:34 PM
You might want to send Larry a PM (Engine Nut). He may have some great advice for you.

I'll do it thanks

MLA
12-13-2016, 09:22 PM
The wrong way...lol when I had my DD I hooked a hose to the water pump and let the engine pull the antifreeze in and circulated it from the exhaust...thought this would work the same but obviously not...I guess the water flows from intake-vdrive-engine

I dont mean this to rub salt in the wound, but this needs to be a reminder to many, that marine/RV antifreeze is not meant to diluted. You cant run this stuff through a drive train thats stiff full of lake water and it protect against freezing.

Do drive this point home even deeper, those reading nead to realize that the state of NC has some real mild winters compared to other parts of the country.

This is not a v-drive v's DD, its not a ford v's chevy blosk thing, its not a PCM, Merc or Indmar thing. Its a dont dilute marine AF. drain the entire system, period! Then if you feel the need, induce some pink antifreeze.

aapwayneo2001
12-13-2016, 10:00 PM
I assumed I got it drained...Unfortunately this is an expensive mistake

lee
12-13-2016, 10:11 PM
"Star briteŽ Wintersafe -50°F (-46°C) Non-Toxic Antifreeze provides excellent cold weather and corrosion protection for drinking water systems and all engines at an attractive price. Its premium additive package prevents corrosion of aluminum, copper, brass and solder, but will not harm rubber, seals or hose materials. The 3X-died pink color provides excellent blow-through visibility. Formulated with virgin, non-toxic USP-grade ingredients. It contains no alcohols. This product is ready-to-use; do not dilute it."

http://www.starbrite.com/item/winter-safe-50f?category_id=713

aapwayneo2001
12-13-2016, 10:20 PM
Oh well $4K down the crapper

DOCDRS
12-14-2016, 01:35 AM
Oh well $4K down the crapper

IF YOU FOLLOW THE MANUAL............you will not go wrong......as above..... first and most important is to drain and poke the block drain plugs period , then drain exhaust ,jtube, vdrive and impeller..........period

beat taco
12-14-2016, 02:07 AM
Well I try to give advice along those lines and some of the Canadian's tell me to soak the plugs (wd40) and threads and leave them out. I left them out one time 20 years ago (NO wd40) and never did it without immediately reinstalling my plugs since. @Docdrs

DOCDRS
12-14-2016, 12:57 PM
Well I try to give advice along those lines and some of the Canadian's tell me to soak the plugs (wd40) and threads and leave them out. I left them out one time 20 years ago (NO wd40) and never did it without immediately reinstalling my plugs since. @Docdrs

Good point ^^^^^^^

Yes I always reinstall the plugs too, (with anti seize) as well, as the threads can corrode over the winter and then may need re tapping or if your not careful you can cross thread the plug. On older models , non knock sensor, they some time have drain cocks and when i was draining one year things didn't seem right, so I poked the hole with a wire, as during draining internal block rust plugged the hole and was preventing normal draining from the block. Once you see the amount of deposits coming out you will do this every time to ensure full block drainage

trayson
12-14-2016, 01:01 PM
That really sucks.

Seems like this would be a good reason to simply drain the block and hoses and leave it. I tend to fall into the camp that if there's no substantial water left in the block, then there's nothing to freeze and crack...

sivs1
12-14-2016, 01:27 PM
This was a bad year for me regarding timing. I drained the block myself but did not have time to finish draining everything else so just broke down and took the boat to the shop one morning on the way to work and had them do it.

I always would just drain everything and put it back together ready to run, no AF left in the block or hoses. There are so many ways people winterize, the key is get all the water out.

zabooda
12-14-2016, 01:52 PM
If the boat has petcocks, get rid of them and put in drain plugs. Petcocks will not completely drain the block if there is silt and sand as the opening is small. If you use petcocks, it is known to always run a wire into them at the end to make sure.

The main reason antifreeze use was started not too long ago by the boat servicing places to ensure customers didn't invalidate the winterization process. There were instances where boats were winterized at the shop and for many reasons owners would dewinterize the boat and fail to re-winterize and crack the block. They would blame the shop for not winterizing correctly. The next thing they did was to winterize and leave the hoses off and then the owner would come back in the spring to get everything connected back up. I'm not so sure how successful that was as shops went to the antifreeze method as a sure way to protect themselves. It wasn't necessarily a better method but it protected their pocketbook.

So we have two methods of winterization which both methods need to be done correctly for it to be effective. I have always drained my engine on all my boats without a problem. Unlike using antifreeze, draining is not an exact science as there needs to be only a 10% void in all the spaces to account for expansion. Antifreeze cannot be diluted as that method doesn't allow for expansion. Shops can run large amounts of antifreeze through the system and check the concentration on the output. One advantage of antifreeze is less internal corrosion.

trayson
12-14-2016, 02:12 PM
If the boat has petcocks, get rid of them and put in drain plugs. Petcocks will not completely drain the block if there is silt and sand as the opening is small. If you use petcocks, it is known to always run a wire into them at the end to make sure.

The main reason antifreeze use was started not too long ago by the boat servicing places to ensure customers didn't invalidate the winterization process. There were instances where boats were winterized at the shop and for many reasons owners would dewinterize the boat and fail to re-winterize and crack the block. They would blame the shop for not winterizing correctly. The next thing they did was to winterize and leave the hoses off and then the owner would come back in the spring to get everything connected back up. I'm not so sure how successful that was as shops went to the antifreeze method as a sure way to protect themselves. It wasn't necessarily a better method but it protected their pocketbook.

So we have two methods of winterization which both methods need to be done correctly for it to be effective. I have always drained my engine on all my boats without a problem. Unlike using antifreeze, draining is not an exact science as there needs to be only a 10% void in all the spaces to account for expansion. Antifreeze cannot be diluted as that method doesn't allow for expansion. Shops can run large amounts of antifreeze through the system and check the concentration on the output. One advantage of antifreeze is less internal corrosion.

Wait, you're telling me that a boat shop would intentionally winterize in such a manner that it requires a return appointment in the spring?!?!?! Say it's not so! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$

sivs1
12-14-2016, 05:59 PM
Wait, you're telling me that a boat shop would intentionally winterize in such a manner that it requires a return appointment in the spring?!?!?! Say it's not so! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$

ha ha ha ha ha, so true.... sorry all boat shops do it.

MJHSupra
12-14-2016, 08:28 PM
Oh well $4K down the crapper

Bummer. Hang in there. There are different methods to get back up and running again. Since you have time over the winter (assuming your not storing your boat all winter), now is the time to figure out what's is going to fit your budget.

There are good resources on here to help.

My buddy on the Supra site had the barn and the know-how to
1) pull the motor
2) drop a new reman in there

Otherwise, you will need to shop about for the labor prices to do so.
If so, try to find someone that will do it for a flat-fee vs the hourly rate. Harder to find.,

james yarosz
12-14-2016, 09:45 PM
GM blocks tend to crack between the freeze plugs.If there is no water in the oil you can grind out the crack to make it about 1/4 inch wide and about 1/8 inch deep and fill it with jb weld.Ive done a few and they are still running fine.It doesn,t take much time or money to try it.Not much to lose.

aapwayneo2001
12-14-2016, 11:51 PM
I'm going to call BPI tomorrow and see what they have
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p1/EFMGM350LFI/

DaveM
12-15-2016, 05:54 PM
Buy my 2013 LSV. It has 320 hours on the engine. Great surf boat. Asking $39K

aapwayneo2001
12-16-2016, 08:35 PM
Buy my 2013 LSV. It has 320 hours on the engine. Great surf boat. Asking $39K

Gotta get this anchor running first lol

bergermaister
12-19-2016, 03:44 PM
Sorry to hear this bro. I went through the same pain about 8 years ago. The engine shop offered me a hotter cam that would bump the rated HP from 325 to 340. Basically just a cam, lifters and springs from what I could gather. Not sure what options you have in your area but the guys who did mine are the same shop that works on the sheriff department boats where they can do a complete engine swap for them literally in 24 hours. So the turnaround on mine was pretty quick!

Thing I wasn't thrilled about is that they only offered me a 1 year warranty. Something to think about as others I have seen are up to 5yr warranty but you PAY for it in the total price. However we've been very happy with the end result. I'm propped for it, but I run heavy with people and ballast for surfing most summers and have never had any issues or ever burn a drop of oil.

And for anyone who has to live through that experience I guarantee it will NEVER happen to them again!