Prop Shaft and Strut Replacement

[rdlangston13]

I have a 2008 Mobius LSV with the dripless shaft seal and I have had what I thought was a prop growl since I have owned it. I replaced the stock OJ wakeboard prope with the ACME 1847 and the growl never went away. Well I was crawling underneath it and it seems that the shaft is not centered in the hole that it comes out of in the bottom of the boat. In fact it is so far off center that it's touching the brass ring it passes through. The strut maybe appears to be bent when looking at it from the back but its hard to tell but I am thinking that since the shaft is not center than it must be bent and this it most likely the cause of my growl. Has anyone replace the strut and shaft before on a boat with the dripless shaft seal? Can someone post a how too or some pointers on getting this done, I think I am going to tackle this before spring and see if the boat runs smoother. Also I am over 500 hours so would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the shaft seal while i have this all removed?

[DOCDRS]

Have you ever checked your alignment?

[MLA]

I am thinking that since the shaft is not center than it must be bent

Engine alignment is also another cause. Usually done at the 20 hr service and then maybe every 100 after that. Whens the last time it was checked/aligned?

[rdlangston13]

I tried to check it once, took all the bolts out of the shaft coupler and the shaft didn't move to try to realign itself, still rubbed on the brass through hull. I was worrried I wasn't doing it right so I had the dealer do it and it still growled / buzzed / vibrated.


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[lee]

Can you spin the prop by hand?

[rdlangston13]

Can you spin the prop by hand?

yeah but its not super easy, not sure how much resistance is supposed to be there. if it is bent i dont think it is bent bad. just a little bit

[MLA]

I tried to check it once, took all the bolts out of the shaft coupler and the shaft didn't move to try to realign itself, still rubbed on the brass through hull. I was worrried I wasn't doing it right so I had the dealer do it and it still growled / buzzed / vibrated.


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You would want to make the alignment by moving the engine/v-drive mounts. The allow for up and down and left and right movement and alignment is check with a feeler gauge. However, you dont want align the engine to compensate for a bent strut. If you have a bent strut, good chance you have a bent shaft.

Touch spot not knowing if it was ever in good alignment and if the the strut ever struck anything in the lake like bottom or a log. Both the shaft and strut can be checked for trueness.

[rdlangston13]

Yeah I know how you check the alignment. I'm just saying if the alignment was far enough off that it's causing the shaft to rub on the brass thru hull then it would be in a decent bind. When you take the bolts out it would try to straighten itself out a little but that was not the case which leads me to believe that we just aligned the engine and v drive to a bent strut/shaft. In any case, the dealer quoted me $900 to replace the shaft and strut. $600 in parts and $300 for labor. I priced the parts on skid in and $600 sounds right so is it worth the hassle to save $300 and attempt it myself or should I just let the dealer do it?


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[smorris7]

Yeah I know how you check the alignment. I'm just saying if the alignment was far enough off that it's causing the shaft to rub on the brass thru hull then it would be in a decent bind. When you take the bolts out it would try to straighten itself out a little but that was not the case which leads me to believe that we just aligned the engine and v drive to a bent strut/shaft. In any case, the dealer quoted me $900 to replace the shaft and strut. $600 in parts and $300 for labor. I priced the parts on skid in and $600 sounds right so is it worth the hassle to save $300 and attempt it myself or should I just let the dealer do it?


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Let the dealer handle it so they can make darn sure everything is aligned correctly. IMO it's worth the labor cost for piece of mind.


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[rdlangston13]

Let the dealer handle it so they can make darn sure everything is aligned correctly. IMO it's worth the labor cost for piece of mind.


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Yeah that's where I am, especially for only $300 bucks. I was shocked at how low it was, i figured it was going to be way more than $900.

[kaneboats]

It will be in July. Getting a deal this time of year.

I have done it. If you do it yourself you should replace the coupler bolts and nylock nuts. You will have to remove the coupler from the shaft in order to slide the shaft out the bottom. I think there is a special tool for this-- you can get it at Elbert's. Put tape over the threads on the shaft and grease it so it slides easily through the dripless shaft seal. You may also have to remove the nuts on your rudder and use a winch strap to move it out of the way a bit (this was Wolfeman's great idea that saved me a ton of time as I didn't have to remove the rudder to let the shaft get by).