Winterization for newer Raptor motors

[DRHRSH]

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

[Stazi]

What about the heater? I'm guessing that runs off the engine antifreeze coolant, so that doesn't need anything to be done to it?

[trayson]

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

when I winterized my pcm351 in my 92 Sunsport, I left the block plugs out over the winter. Big mistake. lots of rust accumulated in the bare threads. So now after draining, I put my engine block plugs back in.

[Stazi]

Trayson, then you raptor engines are closed loop cooling system. That means they have anti-freeze just like your car. So we would not be pulling out the engine plugs, unless you were changing the coolant somewhere down the line.


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[trayson]

Trayson, then you raptor engines are closed loop cooling system. That means they have anti-freeze just like your car. So we would not be pulling out the engine plugs, unless you were changing the coolant somewhere down the line.


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Yeah, I missed that.

[zabooda]

If you leave the hull drain plugs out, you need to devise something to prevent mice from getting in. I've heard of interiors and wires trashed from mice. I only have a bottom drain so I lay the drain plug cross ways to allow drainage but restrict varmints.

[mattsask]

Sadly, I winterized my raptor 400 today too. I ended up with 5 plugs also. Instead of using rv antifreeze, I hooked up the air compressor and blew out the ballast lines. I also left the water hoses for the v drive unhooked. I'm planning to pour some anti freeze in the center tank, because it seems near impossible to get that tanks completely empty. Great tip on the bleach in the bags, I'll have to do that.

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[mattsask]

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.
I had thought I removed 5 but realized today that I only removed 4. I have the 2 blue plastic wing nut looking plugs. One is from the manifold crossover. The 2nd is from the tube between the raw water pump and transmission cooler. The 3rd is the drain plug/anode from the heat exchanger. The 4th is the plug/ anode on the rear of the V drive.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/77c7be20297cbc6e0cd039767343861f.jpg
Which plug am I missing? My manual only indicates 4 plugs from my understanding. Thanks for the help!



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[DRHRSH]

25019

This is the picture I referenced in my suggested winterization. I found it in these forums and it was provided to another member by a guy from Skiers Choice. What puzzles me is why the manifolds need to be drained if they are part of the "closed" cooling system and cooled by antifreeze? Any ideas?

[mattsask]

My understanding is that the exhaust manifolds are water cooled. The water is expelled through the exhaust port, isn't it?
That picture is too blurry for me to see anything.

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[Stazi]

Mattsask, I believe you are correct.


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[DRHRSH]

My understanding is that the exhaust manifolds are water cooled. The water is expelled through the exhaust port, isn't it?

That picture is too blurry for me to see anything.

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You are exactly correct. The manifolds are cooled by "raw" water and must be drained. My information says they will drain through dripless packing. Then it states if there is no crossover hose or dripless packing to remove the drain plug from each manifold.
So that would be 2 plugs
One from heat exchanger
Plastic plug from tube between trans cooler and raw water pump
One from V drive( the picture you posted)

So I believe that is 5. Sorry the picture is poor. I used the forum tools to post it? I know a larger one is in the forum, but if you want it pm me with your e mail and maybe it will come through better.

[mattsask]

You are exactly correct. The manifolds are cooled by "raw" water and must be drained. My information says they will drain through dripless packing. Then it states if there is no crossover hose or dripless packing to remove the drain plug from each manifold.
So that would be 2 plugs
One from heat exchanger
Plastic plug from tube between trans cooler and raw water pump
One from V drive( the picture you posted)

So I believe that is 5. Sorry the picture is poor. I used the forum tools to post it? I know a larger one is in the forum, but if you want it pm me with your e mail and maybe it will come through better.
Gotcha! It all makes perfect sense now. I had a hard time finding the crossover hose on the manifolds. I ended up removing the small floor panel beneath the back seat. I found it right away. Now that I know where it is I'm sure I can access it through the small v drive access panel. It was just impossible to get a visual on the hose without removing that section of floor. It was only 4 screws, so it would be worth having a look for future winterization jobs.

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[doingr8]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160926/02a9009fb351a19261fb6ac4e50ed69f.jpg

The Indmar sea strainer with flush kit make running anti-freeze simple. I just installed it in my Helix, easy job.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160926/141ccc4fa0fb87d88d1555e7342e71f9.jpg


I plan to run anti-freeze thru the flush hose fitting while the boat is running at idle out of the water with the water pickup shutoff valve in the off position. Then pull all the drains, any objections?

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[mattsask]

I would still pull the plugs and drain all the water before you fill with anti-freeze. Otherwise you'll just end up with diluted anti-freeze.

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[doingr8]

That is the plan, just another level of protection against freezing.


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[CRAZy440]

I just maybe over killing it here but before pulled the plugs I pulled in about 3 gallons (until it runs pink out exhaust) of RV anti and then pulled the plugs. Anti came out everywhere, this will keep residuals from hard freeze and also give a bit of added corrosion protection. Be sure to pull the strainer cap as well, that will hold water that won't drain from the trans plug.


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[siv24]

I have done everything on the check list. However, my manifolds have a 90 degree threaded plug and a hose that's connected to them, which leads to a T on top of the transmission and then down. I read somewhere that some have "self emptying" manifolds. I imagine mine is set up this way? None the less, I disconnected the hose at the T and got a little water out on both sides, but not a whole lot. Can anyone comment who has this set up?

The most water I had drain was out of the trans, and heat exchanger. Btw, I only had one plug on my exchanger, nowhere is the little plastic plug in the pictures that's floating around. My heat exchanger looks a little different then the photo as well. I can't find this "plastic plug" some people speak of.

I emptied my ballast bags and wiped them down. Cycled the pumps with the bags detached. I used a little rv antifreeze in the bottom hose and reconnected the bags and cycled the pumps again. Then I disconnected the bags again and used a shop vac to both blow the lines out, and I also sucked them out as well at the bottom / back connection.

Put stable into the tank and removed the battery.

Did I miss anything??

[doingr8]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161026/b5e59a7c8f40008e7a934293d335bed9.jpghttps://vimeo.com/189042691

Changed the fluids, ran it to temp, drained the water, ran anti-freeze through it, drained it again from all points, and removed impeller from engine and Jabsco pumps. Sad day!


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[mattsask]

Nice pail setup! I've been meaning to make one myself. Have you considered adding an adapter for the ballast quick connect fittings? I was thinking I'd add that when I put mine together. Would make winterizing the ballast a dream.

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[doingr8]

I pulled both left and right back walls off to get to the pumps. It made removing the impellers easy. Like you said I would like to put a hose adapter T fitting in the bow pump line. This would allow me to get antifreeze into the hard center tank in the floor.


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[mattsask]

I pulled both left and right back walls off to get to the pumps. It made removing the impellers easy. Like you said I would like to put a hose adapter T fitting in the bow pump line. This would allow me to get antifreeze into the hard center tank in the floor.


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Haha ya, it would certainly be handy. I used a small funnel and poured about 15 L of antifreeze in there. It was a painfully slow and awkward process.

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[siv24]

Doingr8 and Mattsask - Do you guys have the 90 degree fitting and drain lines on your manifolds? I see both of your boats are 2016's (mine is a 2015).

I couldn't find the "plastic plug" on my heat exchanger, just the diode plug on the can looking portion. Any input on this?

Can you recommend what fitting (and where to buy it) to run the boat out of water?

[doingr8]

My manifolds are connected together with a garden hose style disconnect. The 2 hoses come together over the top of the v drive. Best way to get to them is to remove the 4 screws to remove the v drive cover on the floor.

My heat exchanger has 2 plugs, both blue wing style. One is on the back and the other on the bottom of the heat exchanger.

I installed the Indmar inline water filter which has a garden hose attachment.


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[rdlangston13]

Does the engine oil need to be sucked from the drain tube or can the tube be run out the back of the boat through the bilge plug hole and drained?

[smorris7]

Does the engine oil need to be sucked from the drain tube or can the tube be run out the back of the boat through the bilge plug hole and drained?

Either. But it's a pain to run back through the drain hole. I just put the pump in the starboard rear area after removing the bag. Filter canister is right there also.


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[rdlangston13]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171229/eff78d60527c018566e72fcffe8ab55e.jpg
With temperatures dipping into the low 20s for New Years we figured it was time to winterize.

Quick question, are we supposed to fog the raptors? I thought I heard somewhere that you are not supposed to fog the motors with catalytic converters


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[russellsmojo]

No need to fog. Per people who know raptor motors.

And dang that’s a sweet mojo!

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[russellsmojo]

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[rdlangston13]

So I didn’t fog the cylinders, two of the plug wires were going to require removal of the motor lifting points to remove so I just skipped that


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[rdlangston13]

Do the newer raptor motors use the same water pump impeller as the old assault 325s?


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[rdlangston13]

Do the Indmar v-drives/transmissions that come on the newer raptor 400s have a screen or filter that needs to be removed to clean during servicing?

[Gaza7]

Boy quick question.

2018 Moomba craz I have removed 3 blue wing nuts from 1 from
Transmission and other two from heat exchanger I have a gargen
Hose connection from my manifolds would that be the 2 wing nuts I’m missing
Or is there 2 blue wing nuts I can’t find

[rdlangston13]

There is 5 drain points. 3 are blue wingnuts, one is the hose that connects the exhaust manifolds together, and the last is the water pump impeller housing


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[Gaza7]

There is 5 drain points. 3 are blue wingnuts, one is the hose that connects the exhaust manifolds together, and the last is the water pump impeller housing


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David,

Do you have picture of the one at the water pump impeller by chance ?

[rdlangston13]

David,

Do you have picture of the one at the water pump impeller by chance ?

I don’t but it’s just the cover of the impeller housing itself. The housing is black and the cover is held on by 4 5/16 brass bolts (they may have black paint on them). It stick off the front of the motor (towards the back of the boat). There should be a stick on it that’s blue and says like 3 of 5 or something like that.


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[larry_arizona]

I don’t but it’s just the cover of the impeller housing itself. The housing is black and the cover is held on by 4 5/16 brass bolts (they may have black paint on them). It stick off the front of the motor (towards the back of the boat). There should be a stick on it that’s blue and says like 3 of 5 or something like that.


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How do you remove the cover to drain? Unbolt?


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[rdlangston13]

Bingo, remove the 4 5/16 bolts. There is a white foam gasket that seal the cover and it will stick so you may have to pry the cover off once the bolts are out


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[larry_arizona]

Torque spec on reinstall?


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[rdlangston13]

Torque spec on reinstall?


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Haha.


Just snug it up, they 5/16 brass bolts so don’t go cranking on them super tight


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[Edo88]

Do they sell a chilton or Bentley manual for these motors?


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[MJHSupra]

Do they sell a chilton or Bentley manual for these motors?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNo they don't.

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[larry_arizona]

No Raptor manual sucks, Indmar should sell one.

Torque specs are a must. Goodentite is not my idea of legit.


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[Edo88]

That sucks. For those of y’all doing it can y’all post pictures of the drain locations. Trying to decide if I wanna do it or send it too the dealership thank you.


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[MJHSupra]

No Raptor manual sucks, Indmar should sell one.

Torque specs are a must. Goodentite is not my idea of legit.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDealer might have that on their PCs.

Or call Indmar customer service.

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[MJHSupra]

Blue plugs here - pic #4

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum%2Emoomba%2Ecom%2 Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D30951&share_tid=30951&share_fid=27865&share_type=t


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[Edo88]

Blue plugs here - pic #4

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum%2Emoomba%2Ecom%2 Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D30951&share_tid=30951&share_fid=27865&share_type=t


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Thank you


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[rdlangston13]

No Raptor manual sucks, Indmar should sell one.

Torque specs are a must. Goodentite is not my idea of legit.


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If your tightening up cylinder heads or main bearing caps or something similar I agree. 4 little bolts that just hold on a cover for a water pump? I promise you no tech in the country is torquing those to any specification


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[Gaza7]

Thanks David

Found it,

[larry_arizona]

If your tightening up cylinder heads or main bearing caps or something similar I agree. 4 little bolts that just hold on a cover for a water pump? I promise you no tech in the country is torquing those to any specification


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I hear ya, just the engineer in me. I agree, it’s just enough torque to compress the o-ring, probably like 44 in-lbs.




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[MJHSupra]

, probably like 44 in-lbs.
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More engineering on the brain . . . ha ha

To us non-engineering folk - until tight. Just like the ballast pump brass screws.

[jcarter20]

Do the Indmar v-drives/transmissions that come on the newer raptor 400s have a screen or filter that needs to be removed to clean during servicing?

Did you ever get an answer to this one? I don’t think they do, but wanted to double check. To be honest, I removed the filter screen on my 05 Indmar Assault with about 200 hours and it looked brand new. It was such a pain in the ass to get back in, I never did it again. I just suck the fluids out and replace each year.


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[rdlangston13]

Did you ever get an answer to this one? I don’t think they do, but wanted to double check. To be honest, I removed the filter screen on my 05 Indmar Assault with about 200 hours and it looked brand new. It was such a pain in the ass to get back in, I never did it again. I just suck the fluids out and replace each year.


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I think I did and I think the answer was no haha. Don’t remember 100%.


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[jcarter20]

Just thought I would help everyone out with Indmar part numbers for what I ordered for my 18' Raptor 400.

Engine Oil 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic: 872003-1 (8 qt, mine took less)
Oil Filter: 501022S (cartridge type)
Coolant: 872027-1
V Drive Oil: 872022-1 (Book shows 1.25qt, mine took less)
Transmission: 872020-1 (Book shows 2.3qt, mine took less)
Raw Water Pump Impeller: 685007
Raw Water Pump Gasket: 685008
Fuel Filter: 556003
Spark Plugs: 597037-16 (16ea) I didn't need them, but thought I would include the PN

I had a sticker on the front of my engine with all this info also. At my 20 hr service I found the fluid capacities to be much different than the book. I know by sucking out the fluid, some can remain, but I am pretty sure I got all the engine oil and V drive oil out as I rain the drain hose through the drain plug hole for the engine and pulled the plug for the v drive.

[rdlangston13]

Just thought I would help everyone out with Indmar part numbers for what I ordered for my 18' Raptor 400.

Engine Oil 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic: 872003-1 (8 qt, mine took less)
Oil Filter: 501022S (cartridge type)
Coolant: 872027-1
V Drive Oil: 872022-1 (Book shows 1.25qt, mine took less)
Transmission: 872020-1 (Book shows 2.3qt, mine took less)
Raw Water Pump Impeller: 685007
Raw Water Pump Gasket: 685008
Fuel Filter: 556003
Spark Plugs: 597037-16 (16ea) I didn't need them, but thought I would include the PN

I had a sticker on the front of my engine with all this info also. At my 20 hr service I found the fluid capacities to be much different than the book. I know by sucking out the fluid, some can remain, but I am pretty sure I got all the engine oil and V drive oil out as I rain the drain hose through the drain plug hole for the engine and pulled the plug for the v drive.

Taking less than specified on the vdrive and transmission seems to be a common occurrence


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[larry_arizona]

Was thinking.......wouldn’t it be as simple as hooking a hose to the strainer basket connector and running a few gallons of Marine antifreeze through the system?

Pushing the water out as you feed antifreeze through the entire loop?

Heck making a set up with a hose, a 5 gallon bucket would be easy.


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[Stazi]

Was thinking.......wouldn’t it be as simple as hooking a hose to the strainer basket connector and running a few gallons of Marine antifreeze through the system?

Pushing the water out as you feed antifreeze through the entire loop?

Heck making a set up with a hose, a 5 gallon bucket would be easy.


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That’s what I do.


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[larry_arizona]

How many gallons does it take?



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[Stazi]

I run about 5 jugs or so from a large container that I hooked up a valve and a hose to.


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[larry_arizona]

I run about 5 jugs or so from a large container that I hooked up a valve and a hose to.


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Awesome, I was going to make a 5 gallon beer bong with a shut off valve.

I will probably open the drains first, then close, then run engine to draw in 5 gallons.


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[Kraimz15]

That’s what I do.


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is there a shut-off valve you need to close when using the strainer? Curious if there's enough gravity from the jug to push through since the in-take on the bottom of the boat would still be open. This sounds much easier than a fake-a-lake.

[rdlangston13]

is there a shut-off valve you need to close when using the strainer? Curious if there's enough gravity from the jug to push through since the in-take on the bottom of the boat would still be open. This sounds much easier than a fake-a-lake.

My 2017 with the raptor has a shut off valve after the thru Hull intake before the strainer/game a lake.


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[Kraimz15]

My 2017 with the raptor has a shut off valve after the thru Hull intake before the strainer/game a lake.


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I think I found it...hard to see in the first pick of the strainer, but if I you look past it, there is a valve on the floor (2nd pic). guessing this is what I close when I attach a hose to the strainer to run the anti-freeze.

27668

27669

[rdlangston13]

I think I found it...hard to see in the first pick of the strainer, but if I you look past it, there is a valve on the floor (2nd pic). guessing this is what I close when I attach a hose to the strainer to run the anti-freeze.

27668

27669

That’s it. That access door doesn’t provide much access, 4 screws and that whole fiberglass piece comes out and it is much easier to reach everything


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[Boonejeepin]

That’s it. That access door doesn’t provide much access, 4 screws and that whole fiberglass piece comes out and it is much easier to reach everything


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I just leave the screw out for quick tool-less access. No issues or rattles.


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[jcarter20]

So this might be a stupid question, but with the closed cooling....do you need to warm the engine to run antifreeze through the fresh water cooling system? I always have on older boats because the t stat needs to open to circulate the antifreeze all the way through, but on the Raptor, does that matter since it is a hybrid system?


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[parrothd]

So this might be a stupid question, but with the closed cooling....do you need to warm the engine to run antifreeze through the fresh water cooling system? I always have on older boats because the t stat needs to open to circulate the antifreeze all the way through, but on the Raptor, does that matter since it is a hybrid system?


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Nope........

[Stazi]

It does take a while for it to come out through the exhaust though. That’s when I know I’m all good. Let it run out the exhaust for a minute or so and shut I down.


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[jcarter20]

Sounds good. I have a 12v pump step up so I can catch it out of the exhaust and circulate it. I will just let it circulate for a little while to make sure. Man....I can’t quite pull the trigger to winterize it yet. Still feel like we will have a few more decent days here in Ohio.


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[parrothd]

Sounds good. I have a 12v pump step up so I can catch it out of the exhaust and circulate it. I will just let it circulate for a little while to make sure. Man....I can’t quite pull the trigger to winterize it yet. Still feel like we will have a few more decent days here in Ohio.


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You don't need a pump, just a hose and bucket underneath the exhaust.

[Kxmoomba]

What motor oil are you guys running?

[Kxmoomba]

I have a '16 Craz with the "standard" 400 engine and being a boat owner for many years I have always done my own winterization. Obviously this new motor uses a self contained coolant and a heat exchanger so it's different than any boat I have owned. I have read several threads that have suggested ideas. The owners manual is not much help. So I thought I would post what I have gathered and see if anyone has suggestions or improvements. The picture of the 5 critical drain plug points has been previously posted in pdf format.

Add Stabil fuel stabilizer to gas tank and fill tank

Remove 2 hull drain plugs and place in ziploc bag, tape to steering wheel

Pump out all ballast

Attach hose to water intake and run engine to operating temperature / 160 degrees

Drain oil, replace oil filter with Motorcraft FL-820 or Wix 51372

Fill oil with Semi Synthetic 5W-30 - 8 quarts

Remove 5 drain plugs from heat exchanger , manifolds and transmission ( see picture)

Clean and drain lake water strainer if equipped ( was an option)

Remove spark plugs and fog each cylinder with fogging oil, crank engine to spread fogging oil

Detach hoses from ballast pumps, pour in RV antifreeze, cycle pump to insure it runs through

Detach and remove ballast bags, add 1/4 cup bleach and slosh around

Plug in on board battery charger or remove a batteries and place on trickle charger



Every other year ? ( I have the Indmar V Drive unit )

Drain and refill V drive (yellow dipstick)and transmission ( red dipstick). I believe these fluids need to be sucked out with a vacuum pump and a small tube.

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

Replace lake water impeller


I welcome and constructive comments. Thank you.

I cannot find the Mobil delvac 50 locally. Does anyone have suggestions on what else to run?

[Stazi]

I cannot find the Mobil delvac 50 locally. Does anyone have suggestions on what else to run?
I found some synthetic SAE 50 oil at the local parts store for “Racing” which has extra ZDDP in it so that’s what I used.


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[jcarter20]

I was told by Indmar (I called their tech support) that Mobil 1 Synthetic - 5w-30 is ok to use. My dealer was out of the Indmar 5w-30 that was speced for the motor, and they told me the same thing.


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[Stazi]

I was told by Indmar (I called their tech support) that Mobil 1 Synthetic - 5w-30 is ok to use. My dealer was out of the Indmar 5w-30 that was speced for the motor, and they told me the same thing.


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No need to use Indmar repackaged oil. Mobil 1 5W30 is probably better anyway.
This is what I put in the gear side of the trans
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w50-motor-oil-vv211/8020086-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=8020086-P&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw08XeBRC0ARIsAP_gaQCgJVE1sQP3txZPPbG5 VCKUAJO6oWpRWSlGpxJafprY2jvm0HCpEgYaAnLQEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


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[Kxmoomba]

Can I run Motorraft 5W30 semi syn? Also can we run a full syn?
Thanks for your relipes

[Stazi]

Go full synthetic. It doesn’t break down as fast as mineral or semi synthetic. All the new engine these days have no issue using full PAO (synthetic) oils. The seals used these days aren’t the crap that was in cars from 30 years ago.
PS I’m in the business of lubrication for a living.


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[Kxmoomba]

OK and I can use motorcraft full syn then? or should I just stick with Mobil one? I have been reading through all the forums looking for an answer and it seems its mobil one or motorcraft, some say yes to full syn some don't lol

Are you using that VR1 motor oil in the trans? Just want to double check since what I found in the winterization was this info and a 50 synthetic

Trans takes 2.3 qts Indmar ATF 872006 ( Can use Dextron 6 synthetic)
V-Drive takes 1.25 qts Indmar Synthetic 50 Transmission oil 872009 ( can use Mobil Delvac 50 synthetiic transmission oil)

I appreciate your help. I work in the powersports industry and they sit us down and talk about oil but it all sounds the same haha.

[Stazi]

Mobil 1 is my favorite as it has the one of the best viscosity indexes of all the synthetic motor oil’s and also the highest quality, unless you want to pay unnecessarily for stuff like royal purple, and Amsoil. The latter oils are full of viscosity modifiers that break down quickly with heat and shear. They test great in labs on viscometers but don’t perform any better in the field.
The trans oil is just an SAE 50 weight oil. Nothing special here. Again, go synthetic. The one I posted has antifoaming additives which is ideal for gearboxes.
Motorcraft and Indmar and Mopar etc etc just buy relabeled/repackaged oil from the big oil companies. They don’t make any themselves. Because they will recommend their own brand because it just adds more money in their pocket.


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[Kxmoomba]

OK, thanks for that. I just did't want to assume that I can run any trans oil but felt like I was probably over thinking it. This was very helpful

[larry_arizona]

Not as critical with a low lift cam (cams in a raptor) applications, but I am not a fan of low ZDDP oils with the Dexos1 rated oils.

Mobil 1 is fine I am sure and likely a step up from the indmar semi syn, but if you are going to pick a Mobil 1 5w30, I would pick a non Dexos 1 variant.

I also wouldn’t go crazy with the ZDDP levels as too much is unfriendly to the cats.


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[Stazi]

The ZDDP I was talking about is in the SAE 50 gear oil. No problem with cats... or dogs for that matter. [emoji38]


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[larry_arizona]

The ZDDP I was talking about is in the SAE 50 gear oil. No problem with cats... or dogs for that matter. [emoji38]


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My understanding was ZDDP produces too much phosphorus for the catalytic converters to handle.




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[Stazi]

My understanding was ZDDP produces too much phosphorus for the catalytic converters to handle.




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Agreed. But the SAE 50 oil i am talking is ONLY being used in the trans gears, so it is not an issue.


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[BigOrange]

I just had same problem of finding the synthetic 50 weight trans oil anywhere locally. Best thing I could find online was 1 gallon of Lucas oil product via Amazon.

[larry_arizona]

Agreed. But the SAE 50 oil i am talking is ONLY being used in the trans gears, so it is not an issue.


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I follow you, but was simply saying not all Mobil 1 5w30’s are the same.

If I were choosing a Mobil 5w30 for the raptors, I would choose the non dexos1 versions.

Dexos1 M1 has been too low on ZDDP the past several years.

I would like it to be between 850 and 1100 ppm and Dexos1 M1 has been running 600-750ppm.

I wouldn’t go too much higher than 1100ppm ZDDP for concern on the catalytic converters.

EDIT: according to the 2018 product chart, the Dexos1 5w30’s have improved, previous years were much lower.

But as you can see, all M1 5w30’s are not the same.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

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[KnoxMojo]

I run exactly what the manual says, Motocraft 5w30 semi.

[Kxmoomba]

I guess I didn't get the same manual because it doesn't list any info for oil's or qty's. I sure do appreciate this forum and all the help.

[KnoxMojo]

I guess I didn't get the same manual because it doesn't list any info for oil's or qty's. I sure do appreciate this forum and all the help.

Go to the Indmar site and look it up. You can also download a boat user manual from the Moomba archives site under support. Between the both of them, all of the info is there.

[jph3]

Quick question. I’ve drained all the low water points... is it necessary to run the antifreeze, or just extra precaution? I live in Colorado, it’s not in a heated garage.

Thanks for the info on this thread... so far it was a 10 min job :)

[Kxmoomba]

We are in Idaho and we do run Antifreeze. It gets below freezing here and its cheap and doesn't take a lot of time and I sleep better at night.

[Kxmoomba]

also, Ours took 5 gallons and ran through. Our local shop runs antifreeze in all the boats they winterize as well

[jph3]

Makes sense... I had antifreeze with me, pulled the intake and cranked it over under it pulled it out of the exhaust. Definitely easy to do!