Raptor 400 Winterization Guide - Mondo

[siv24]

Does anyone have a step by step guide for winterization of the Raptor 400 motor?

Also, Including blowing out the ballast lines? I realize you can just take the rear bag out and drain, but I want to be sure the lines are blown out as well if necessary.

I'm not paying $285 again this year to have the Stealer do this.

[kaneboats]

We normally do not allow questions about the evil "W" topic until at least after Labor Day.

[mattsask]

I would definitely be interested in this as well!

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[wolfeman131]

I'm not paying $285 again this year to have the Stealer do this.

really?

for me, $285 is cheap insurance against a cracked block on a $5,000+ motor

[icemanftr]

I do mine every year. Takes about an hour or so and good excuse to drink beer. I agree 285 is a scam.

-change oil and filter
-pull all water lines off and two block plugs
- pull vdrive water plugs (2)
- pull out rear and bow bag
-pull out impeller and inspect and relube
-air blow out heater lines if you have heater/blower and unhook lines.
-pull RV antifreeze in all three ballast pumps and blip switch to ensure it gets into impeller
-pour antifreeze in vent line of front hard tank so it gets into tank to prevent freezing left over water etc...

I'm sure I'm missing a few things and I'm sure sometimes I do more than necessary but it works for me.
🍻


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[Woody929]

Raptor will have a different process

[siv24]

Thanks Iceman, but like Woody said, it'll be different for the Raptor motor because it's a close coolant system. I know there has to be someone who has done this and can explain where all the plugs are at and what not. I did my old boat every year but it was similar to the above described.

I want to be sure that I don't miss anything.

[DFTR Josh]

Check your manual, it goes over all the details of what and where stuff is.

[siv24]

bump - Pulling the boat this weekend.

[CRAZy440]

Working on mine this week. Already drained the 4 drains listed in the manual. Going to pull in RV anti freeze into the power package cooling system just to make sure it's safe. Biggest question from me is how do I deal with the center hard ballast in my Craz. That tank does not empty all the way. I pulled in RV anti freeze into the rear ballast pump through the bag attachment. Can't do that with the center hard tank obviously.

Should I pull the rear pump cover, remove the hose and just pour antifreeze into the pump directly?

Then should I just pour a few gallons of antifreeze into the center ballast thru the IBS fill and drain hose?

Or instead, should I just pull in a few gallons of anti freeze using my fake a lake from the bottom inlet? Similar to how I will pull it into the engine cooling system?

Thanks in advance! BTW, WINTER COMES TOO SOON! [emoji30]


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[siv24]

If I knew exactly what I was doing, I would but together a post / sticky with photos and step by step. Sorry, but I am just not interested in paying a dealer $285 to pull a couple plugs. All it takes is the know how, and a little mechanically inclined ability. I am going to be looking to get this completed this coming weekend. We'll see how it goes I guess. There should not be any reason to pour any antifreeze (to my knowledge) anywhere.

Crazy440 - The center ballast is a hard tank, unless you have an added ballast, but mine is just the stock one. I think (not positive), but if you look under your carpet, there are a couple access panels. One has a T handle tapered plug. This should be your center ballast plug. The only reason I know this is because I had to reinstall it in the spring.

[yukon2007]

I was lead to believe this drain (from my dealer upon purchase) was a secondary hull drain centered in the boat and the hard ballast tank is separate from this. Can someone from SC who usually follows this thread confirm this?

[dusty2221]

The brass T Handle is a hull drain, not a ballast tank drain.

[siv24]

Thanks for clearing this up. That said, is there a ballast drain for the hard tank? Or do you have to rely on the pump getting all of the water out?

[mattsask]

I blew my lines out with a cprmressor then put 10 litres of antifreeze in the center tank through the hoses that attach to the IBS.

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[yukon2007]

Can you expand on how you did this?

[Alerberg]

FYI... I just spoke with Indmar. The mystery hose that is supposed to come off the manifolds and connect with a T is not on some Moomba Indmar motors due to space limitations. He told me to remove the plug (gold hex head) in each manifold instead and remove the drain at the very bottom of the transmission. Sorry, no pictures yet, will try to get some later.

[wolfeman131]

If I knew exactly what I was doing, I would but together a post / sticky with photos and step by step. Sorry, but I am just not interested in paying a dealer $285 to pull a couple plugs.

Your dealer probably knows exactly what they are doing and that the T handle is a hull drain, not a center ballast drain. Dealers spend a lot of $$ training their techs so that your boat will be safe over the winter.

[jmvotto]

Your dealer probably knows exactly what they are doing and that the T handle is a hull drain, not a center ballast drain. Dealers spend a lot of $$ training their techs so that your boat will be safe over the winter.


Amen...........

[siv24]

LOL. You "dealer" guys crack me up. If you choose to take it to a dealer every year and pay them to do this, have at it. Therefore, your comments are useless.

I, like many of us, choose to save the money and learn to do it. Many people on the site have very good information. Thanks to those who have had useful comments. Also, I came across this thread that has helped tremendously in the "how To Info" threads. Thanks everyone.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?28620-Winterization-for-newer-Raptor-motors

[sivs1]

This is becoming a funny thread to watch, useful but funny. I typically do my own as well, here's why: I try to stay on the water long into the fall and when it get's cold here it comes fast. My dealer is located 3,000 feet below my elevation and gets slammed. Because I try and get every bit of boating in I can during my shorter season i don't want my boat to freeze while sitting in line at the dealer.

My father's family use to own a marina and he taught me how to do it, my SA is much different than my LSV which is much different than my Stingray was. BTW, antifreeze will freeze if it get's cold enough, I don't use it and I know a number of people in the higher elevations that do not use it for that reason.

[siv24]

So my boat is a 2015 Mondo. I have done everything on the check list. However, my manifolds have a 90 degree threaded plug and a hose that's connected to them, which leads to a T on top of the transmission and then down. I read somewhere that some have "self emptying" manifolds. I imagine mine is set up this way? None the less, I disconnected the hose at the T and got a little water out on both sides, but not a whole lot. Can anyone comment who has this set up?

The most water I had drain was out of the trans, and heat exchanger. Btw, I only had one plug on my exchanger, nowhere is the little plastic plug in the pictures that's floating around. My heat exchanger looks a little different then the photo as well.

I emptied my ballast bags and wiped them down. Cycled the pumps with the bags detached. I used a little rv antifreeze in the bottom hose and reconnected the bags and cycled the pumps again. Then I disconnected the bags again and used a shop vac to both blow the lines out, and I also sucked them out as well at the bottom / back connection.

Put stable into the tank and removed the battery. Then I cracked a cold one.

[sivs1]

really?

for me, $285 is cheap insurance against a cracked block on a $5,000+ motor

Maybe you have better connections, just dropped the SA off at the dealer as I don't have time this year. I seriously fell out of my chair when he told me the price.

[wolfeman131]

Maybe so, but the $285 is what the OP posted the cost for his winterization would cost.

[sivs1]

Maybe so, but the $285 is what the OP posted the cost for his winterization would cost.

$285 would be a bargain, I wish I could pay only that.