Where to get Code reader for Indmar 340 Cat? Where does it even plug in?

[trayson]

Where can I buy a code reader for my Indmar 340 Cat engine? I have a CEL and need to figure out what's happening.

The engine is surging and I can't get over 28mph.

[mmandley]

IDK about the code reader but the electrical connects should be on the rear of the engine near the Trans, on my 08 they sat in a row and they have fake plugs on the connections to protect it.

On the newer boats they are in the cubby.

Does it surge at all speeds?
What RPM does it start to surge?
Does it surge with Cruise on and off?

[Poison]

You aren't going to like the answer. The CAT/ETX is MEFI-5 (unless they changed it in 08 ). You will be out quite a bit of money to purchase the connector and software required to read it. Here is one: https://www.obd2allinone.com/mefi5scan.asp There are several like it out there if you Google MEFI-5.

There is no easy / cheap way to pull engine codes for MEFI-5. I've been down this road. I even thought about buying the reader and then renting it out but in the end I could never shell out $400-500.

Your problem sounds like spark plugs and/or plug wires. Possibly even distributor cap and rotor. But that is just first glance. Hope it isn't something more invasive.

[KG's Supra24]

^ my exact thoughts.

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[trayson]

Well, I am totally due for plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and air filter. So I don't have a problem throwing those parts at it.

The CEL went off, but the boat is definitely not running 100%.

Lame about the code reader being spendy. You'd think that since it's the most common block on the planet, there'd be more options.

[Poison]

Yeah, a very common block, but not so much on the ECM. If I remember correctly, the non-CAT engines are MEFI-4 and much easier to pull codes.

I did cap and rotor last year as well. Cheap and easy maintenance. Mine had some pretty good build up on it. Make sure you get the right plugs with the correct gap. It is different for the CAT/ETX as opposed to the more common 325s from that year group.

[mmandley]

Of the code went away, most likely your knock sensor is regarding the engine due to your tune up being needed. Basically your not being fuel efficiently so it's detonating early and causing knocking, the knock sensor sees this and retards your timing causing the symptoms you see

[gbh424]

+1 on the cap, rotor, and plugs. I had bad surging and loss of power last year. Didn't realize the problem until reading someone else's posts about plugs. Just replaced them and like a new boat again. Contact points on the rotor were completely corroded and white....and as far as I know this boat was never in salt water.


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[lee]

http://www.rinda.com/marine/marine.htm#merctool

[trayson]

Yeah, a very common block, but not so much on the ECM. If I remember correctly, the non-CAT engines are MEFI-4 and much easier to pull codes.

I did cap and rotor last year as well. Cheap and easy maintenance. Mine had some pretty good build up on it. Make sure you get the right plugs with the correct gap. It is different for the CAT/ETX as opposed to the more common 325s from that year group.

How do I know what plugs to get and what the correct gap is? I'd love to just pop over to my local auto parts store and get the the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, and air filter. Yeah, I guess I could yank everything off and play the match up game...
Edit: nevermind. i found the plugs and gap info in my owners manual.

From what I've read based on the year of my boat (2008) I think I have the MEFI-5 which makes for an expensive code reading option. Bummer.

[trayson]

+1 on the cap, rotor, and plugs. I had bad surging and loss of power last year. Didn't realize the problem until reading someone else's posts about plugs. Just replaced them and like a new boat again. Contact points on the rotor were completely corroded and white....and as far as I know this boat was never in salt water.


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I'm pretty sure that I found the problem. Like yourself, there is a ton of corrosion on my cap.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/traysonh/Moomba%20XLV/20160724_172532_zpsdpsehwcn.jpg

So I am going to do cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires.

[gbh424]

I'm pretty sure that I found the problem. Like yourself, there is a ton of corrosion on my cap.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/traysonh/Moomba%20XLV/20160724_172532_zpsdpsehwcn.jpg

So I am going to do cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires.

Yep....that's exactly what mine looked like. New cap and rotor solved my problem....no more hesitation/missing when taking off.


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[trayson]

Well, CEL's and surging by 100 to 300 RPM is still present. Things are better, but not fixed with the new cap/rotor/plugs. I ordered a new set of plug wires. Dunno if that's going to magically fix things. I wish the code readers were easier to come by.

[JHutch]

Might want to go ahead and do this if it hasn't been done. its for the exhaust post temp sensor. They where only used in 08 and discontinued after that. might not be causing your issue but it will eventually cause one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ioo0sEUUjLM

This put my engine into limp mode, sucks but I got an email directly from indmar and putting in the resister is the only fix

[trayson]

Might want to go ahead and do this if it hasn't been done. its for the exhaust post temp sensor. They where only used in 08 and discontinued after that. might not be causing your issue but it will eventually cause one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ioo0sEUUjLM

This put my engine into limp mode, sucks but I got an email directly from indmar and putting in the resister is the only fix

That's crazy. I'm not going into limp mode (yet) but the CEL and surging are driving me crazy. I pulled the fuel filter last night and will get another one today. I have plug wires showing up today. If neither of those work, I might have to give up and take the boat to a local dealer and have them read the CEL. They said they'd charge me 1/2 hour to 45 minutes labor to pull the code. (greedy bastards)

[JHutch]

Mine only went into limp mode I guess when the sensor first went out. After that it ran but had the CEL light on. Easy way to see if its been done is see if the wires have been cut to those sensors.

[Poison]

The plug wires caused mine to surge last year. I was all distraught after I thought I had induced a problem by changing my cap, rotor, and plugs...a new set of plug wires fixed me right up. I think the boot got damaged during the removal...they were 8 years old and I had to tug pretty hard to get them off of a couple of the plugs. I hope that's all you need.

[trayson]

Mine only went into limp mode I guess when the sensor first went out. After that it ran but had the CEL light on. Easy way to see if its been done is see if the wires have been cut to those sensors.

Well, I'm pretty sure they haven't. And there's a Radio Shack literally next door to my auto parts store, so I might as well get the resistors.


The plug wires caused mine to surge last year. I was all distraught after I thought I had induced a problem by changing my cap, rotor, and plugs...a new set of plug wires fixed me right up. I think the boot got damaged during the removal...they were 8 years old and I had to tug pretty hard to get them off of a couple of the plugs. I hope that's all you need.

Me too. the plug wires are sitting on my doorstep right now. took 1 day shipping to get them from Bakes. And the fuel filter is out and I'm getting a new one of those in a few minutes. Man, I want the boat to run right!!!

[trayson]

So last night I did the new plug wires and also a new fuel filter. It looks like there was a little bit of corrosion on the old coil wire contact. so maybe that was my issue.

took it out on the water today and it PURRED like a kitten. No issues at all, rallied it through the paces with Slalom, Wakeboard and surf. Put the hammer down and got the boat up to 42mph! Oh yeah. Me likey. Thanks for all the insight guys. Throwing down on over $100 of plug wires was a bit painful, but worth it.