material for amp and subwoofer trim panels?

[trayson]

I've seen it a lot in boat audio installations where there's a trim panel that's used. for example, I have a carpeted trim panel in front of my subwoofer box that's wrapped in carpet. I've seen people likewise build a trim panel and then wrap it in vinyl and cut out holes in it for the faces of their amps.

What material am I looking for if I wanted to build a trim panel? I'd think it'd need to be thin and not susceptible to water. Stuff like acryllic or hdpe would be too expensive. and it seems way more rigid than what I remember being on my subwoofer trim panel. I know there's got to be a "go to" material, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

[ian ashton]

I use Starboard, 1/4" is relatively cheap.

In the past I've used 1/4 birch, like from Home Depot, but but the time you coat it with truck bed liner or similar, yada yada it's still not waterproof. Starboard is just so easy.

[trayson]

I use Starboard, 1/4" is relatively cheap.

In the past I've used 1/4 birch, like from Home Depot, but but the time you coat it with truck bed liner or similar, yada yada it's still not waterproof. Starboard is just so easy.

interesting. starboard is just a brand name of HDPE if I remember right. Yeah, it's easy to work with. I used it for various projects on my boats.

[ian ashton]

Correcto-mundo, sir!

I've had great much buying scrap pieces from a plastics supplier.

[David Analog]

KingStarboard is just one form of HDPE. But there are many types and grades of HDPE. KS is usually denser and used for visible applications because you can polish the edges to a gloss finish (ie: dash panels, hatches), which is not possible with a more porous HDPE. KS will be more expensive. You won't have any luck gluing or painting KS. In concealed applications, boat builders use HDPE versus KS. HDPE would be my choice for amplifier panels, and any other panel in which I am adhering carpet or vinyl.
The other very good option is a resin-coated cabinet-grade birch ply. If it's slightly spaced off the sole, it should last indefinitely.
I like 0.75" thick for most amp panel applications because it provides more screw depth. Thinner 0.50" is usually used on subwoofer cover facades.
Just no water-based MDF (even when treated) for these purposes. Although there are solvent-based composite materials such as Medex, Norboard, MDO, Extira, and more, that will be just as viable as a birch ply. I would still resin-coat.

[KG's Supra24]

David mentioned our route above ... Dusty used a thin sheet of trimmed birch ply, laid over a sheet of plexi-glass for our amp rack covers.

[MLA]

Stuff like acryllic or hdpe would be too expensive

Not really, heres why. Wood needs to be sealed with a quality 2-part epoxy. This takes a couple coats at least, to get a good coat, especially on the cut edges that really soak up the stuff. This also takes time to prep, mix, coat, clean up. Add those to the cost of a good quality ply and the ft2 cost is right there with HDPE. Cut and test fit and its ready for the carpet.

[sandm]

I've had good luck buying scrap parts of hdpe or ks. most plastic shops I have been to have scraps laying around for sale and if you are covering in carpet, color doesn't matter.

[dusty2221]

It can be bought on Amazon for decent prices as well.

[David Analog]

I've had good luck buying scrap parts of hdpe or ks. most plastic shops I have been to have scraps laying around for sale and if you are covering in carpet, color doesn't matter.

Even though it may not show, just knowing that there is magenta HDPE behind the gray carpet would still bother me.

[5:00]

I use a product called Komatex for a LOT of projects. It comes in different thicknesses, a lot of colors and can be worked easily. It is much less dense than HDPE and can be glued/screwed but still strong. Unfortunately only the black is rated for outdoor (unless it has changed) but this will be inside. It can be scratched easier than HDPE I think.
I will probably make my SuckG8 out of it in the end. I have 1/4" and 1/2" here.
It is basically a PVC board that is fairly smooth on the surface but has air inside of it keeping it light. Semi rigid PVC sheets until you get to 1/2"
And yes Trayson it comes in blue.:D
A 4'x8' by 1/2" is about $80.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/5908/Kamatex_Color_Chart.jpg

[MLA]

I bet the outdoor rating is for UV and fading. I would not hesitate to use it under the helm or as an amp wall, etc, where its out of the sun.

[viking]

It can be bought on Amazon for decent prices as well.

This!! I sourced a couple 2x4 sheets for pretty inexpensive for my sub facade and other projects. I love PRIME

[sandm]

Even though it may not show, just knowing that there is magenta HDPE behind the gray carpet would still bother me.

I would shy away from magenta as I have heard it can rob as much as 200 watts from your amp. now pink on the other hand.........

[trayson]

I use a product called Komatex for a LOT of projects. It comes in different thicknesses, a lot of colors and can be worked easily. It is much less dense than HDPE and can be glued/screwed but still strong. Unfortunately only the black is rated for outdoor (unless it has changed) but this will be inside. It can be scratched easier than HDPE I think.
I will probably make my SuckG8 out of it in the end. I have 1/4" and 1/2" here.
It is basically a PVC board that is fairly smooth on the surface but has air inside of it keeping it light. Semi rigid PVC sheets until you get to 1/2"
And yes Trayson it comes in blue.:D
A 4'x8' by 1/2" is about $80.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/5908/Kamatex_Color_Chart.jpg

So I got some of the expanded plastic on amazon in gray so it'll match the carpet. I plan to make cutouts for the amps and for the capacitors and mount the expanded plastic on stainless mirror standoffs (per KG/Dusty reco). What do you think I should use to make the cutouts with? I'm thinking the material will be really easy to cut through and I don't want to destroy it with the jigsaw... It almost looks like I'd be able to cut it with a sharp razor knife, but I don't wanna make extra effort for myself. I'm thinking that my Multi-tool might work pretty cool...

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/02/aplusautomation/vendorimages/e6beaefa-b9e0-4c28-9f66-fb2c454cd556.jpg._CB328029606__SR300,300_.jpg

[ian ashton]

I have the same one - I'm sure it will work, just not sure how efficiently.

I usually use a table saw and / or router table, and rotozip when I cut schtuff like that.

[trayson]

I have the same one - I'm sure it will work, just not sure how efficiently.

I usually use a table saw and / or router table, and rotozip when I cut schtuff like that.

Is a rotozip (speed saw) a pretty rad tool? I can get one for $40 at home depot. if that's going to be one of my best bets for this project, I don't mind buying a new tool that I'll undoubtedly find more uses for later on...

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/63/638811a9-a00c-4c62-8f33-f633411839aa_400.jpg

[viking]

I used a cordless dewalt jigsaw to cut panels out of HDPE. It had alot of goofy angles and uneven floor so worked like a charm!

[trayson]

I used a cordless dewalt jigsaw to cut panels out of HDPE. It had alot of goofy angles and uneven floor so worked like a charm!

I've used my cordless jigsaw. some of my cuts lack a certain level of refinement... LOL

[MLA]

For round holes, use a hole saw (small) or router with circle jog (larger). for other holes, use a jig but clamp down a fence for long straight cuts.

[trayson]

For round holes, use a hole saw (small) or router with circle jog (larger). for other holes, use a jig but clamp down a fence for long straight cuts.

Ah, that's the reminder I needed. I forget about some of the basic tricks of the trade, since I really only mess with this stuff when I have a project here and there.

Thanks guys!